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[madwelshman]

Hi folks,[/size]So, last night I rescued what I believe to be an Aerokits Sea Rover (unless anyone can tell me different?)
It is slightly damaged, to say the least and incomplete too.At some point, someone has fitted an additional 2 shafts to it and it ran 3 electric motors after the ic motor had been removed.My plan is to remove the two additional shafts and if I can get hold of a plan, remake the damaged parts (cabin sides mainly from what I can see so far), plus the missing parts (cabin roof etc), fit a nice brushless motor (nothing too silly) and then once finished, just enjoy using it.So my question is, does anyone have a set of plans for a Sea Rover? PDF or paper, I don't mind which.Attached is the only picture from the advert. It was crying out to be saved and to get some attention.Will

[madwelshman]

Why did my text go so small?


Hi folks,


So last night, I rescued what I believe to be an Aerokits Sea Rover (unless anyone can tell me different?)
It is slightly damaged, to say the least and incomplete too.


At some point, someone has fitted an additional two shafts to it, so it ran with 3 electric motors after the ic motor had been removed.


My plan is to remove the extra 2 shafts and if I can get hold of a plan, remake the damaged parts (cabin sides mainly from what I can see so far), plus the missing parts (cabin roof etc), fit a nice brushless motor (nothing too silly) and then once finished, just enjoy using it.


So my question is, does anyone have a plan for a Sea Rover please?  PDF or Paper, i don't mind which.


Above is the only image from the advert.  It was crying out to be saved and for some attention.



Will

[madwelshman]

Some strange 'Stuff' inside the hull 
It's almost like epoxy that hasn't cured, but isn't sticky either.  It's got a sort of waxy feel to it and if you try to break big bits that I dug out, they just snap quite easily.


One picture shows some of said 'Stuff' on the bow after I have dug it out.


Anyone know what it might be?

[madwelshman]

a few more

[madwelshman]

Last ones so far.

[madwelshman]

Oh, and these.

[ChrisF]

Blimey you've got a job on your hands there Will!

You and Bob are the saviour of neglected and unloved boats!

I think Harry might have some drawings?

Chris

[madwelshman]

I bought two boats last night Chris 


This one and a GORGEOUS unfinished project Fairey:


If Harry has got plans for a Sea Rover, I'd be very interested in a copy for sure.


Will

[madwelshman]

Blimey you've got a job on your hands there Will!

You and Bob are the saviour of neglected and unloved boats!

I think Harry might have some drawings?

Chris

Yes the Sear Rover is rough and a good bit of work, but it just had to be saved.

[canabus]

Hi Lads


Plans sent !!!


Canabus

[madwelshman]

Hi Lads


Plans sent !!!


Canabus

Thank you very much, really appreciated.


Will

[ChrisF]

I see that it says Spearfish on the stand but if it's 42" it has the look of a Huntsman 28 about it.

Well done Harry but can you make it quicker next time! 


Chris

[madwelshman]

Chris,
Yes it does say Spearfish on there, but is the wrong shape/profile hull to be a Spearfish.
I think it's either a 28 or a Huntress.

[Vintage]

I think it's either a 28 or a Huntress.

Is it not a Veron Huntsman?
They were 42" long.
Mark

[madwelshman]

Is it not a Veron Huntsman?
They were 42" long.
Mark

To be honest, I don't kniw.
Was the Veron one a Huntsman 28?

[Vintage]

Was the Veron one a Huntsman 28?

Yes and the model length was 42", I have one here that I built many years ago.

I will try to look out an old ad for the model when I get a chance but if you google "Veron Huntsman" you'll find lots of reference ... 

Mark

[madwelshman]

Thanks for that Mark, I was wondering if it was something like that, but didn't realise the Veron one was 42"


I will do some research after work.


Will

[ChrisF]

It could be a Veron kit build which is why I said that the 42" length suggested it being a Huntsman 28. But Vic Smeed also produced drawings for a 42" version as well, so it could be either, but the Veron is probably more common.

Here's the Veron kit drawing.

Chris

[zooma]

Good luck with restoring the Sea Rover Will

It looks like I have found somebody else who thinks that every lost cause is worth saving - sadly a bit like myself

Welcome to the club 

[madwelshman]

Good luck with restoring the Sea Rover Will

It looks like I have found somebody else who thinks that every lost cause is worth saving - sadly a bit like myself

Welcome to the club 

Everyones idea of a lost cause is different.
I didn't see this in that way, more of a challenge to make good something that would possibly be binned or thrown on the bonfire.
I'm actually looking forward to attempting it, seeing if my skills are up to it or not. Should be fun if nothing else.


Cheers
Will

[madwelshman]

Has anyone got any suggestions for removing the additional two propshafts that someone previously fitted?
They've been epoxy'd in by the looks of things.

[ChrisF]

Usual way I understand is to apply some heat and give them a twist.

Chris

[zooma]

Hi Will,

I have removed quite a few prop shafts (for various reasons) over the years - mainly from old boats that I want to improve or that had their original shafts that were not put in "square" and needed replacing.......or some that have simply "worn-out".

It is always important to remove the motor and coupling from the hull first (if either are still in place) and the inner shaft too as it is only the outer tube that is bonded into the hull and a loose inner shaft will not be helpful if left in place.  Anything that could get damaged that is in the immediate area such as a rudder or water pick-up should also be removed first.

It there is any large amount of excess filler around the shaft this can be cut, filed or ground away first to weaken the joint before the next stage.

As most prop shafts are held in with epoxy resin, glass fibre, or a mixture of all (including car body filler paste) I take advantage of knowing that they all embrittle with age and I have found that a good sharp bang on the end of the shaft is often enough to shatter the bond and for the shaft to become loose enough to pull out.

It is important to use a hammer head for this technique and not a mallet or any other "soft" surface as it is the shock that causes the hardened packing around the shaft to shatter or crack away.

If the prop shaft is to be used again, a piece of flat mild steel plate can be placed squarely across the end of the shaft so the shock impact is still transmitted OK but the hammer blow will not distort or damage the end of the prop shaft if the blow (or blows) were not delivered accurately enough to land centrally and square on the end of the shaft. 

This technique does need firm commitment as gently "tapplng away at it" seldom works unless the tube is already fairly loose.

Stubborn shafts that begins to slide up into the hull but remain too tight to extract even after some twisting etc sometimes need to be tapped back out again and this "back and forth" movement will eventually do the job.

Once the shaft is loose and can be "wiggled" around it will usually be possible to extract it although some may need any "caked-on" filler etc to be cleaned away first before  trying to pull it out of the hull as the hole it needs to pass through will probably not be much bigger than the diameter of the brass tube itself.

It is important to hold the hull to stop it moving to prevent any damage.  I often wrap an old folded towel around the bows and then place it against a wall so the shock remans focused on the prop shaft but the hull remains stationery

Good luck - any problems - give me a call.  This method has never failed - and I have removed a lot of prop shafts on my own boats and to help others that could not get them out or were a little nervous about giving the prop shaft a firm enough clout!

Stay safe!

Bob.

[madwelshman]

Great instructions Bob, thank you very much. I will give that a go and see how I get on.


Will

[zooma]

Hi Will,

Those big blobs of epoxy should be removed before banging on the end of the shaft.

Sometimes lumps like this can be prised away, scraped,  or split and levered away as they tend to shrink as they harden over the years - and those look like they have been there for a few years!

I would also check where they pass through the bulkhead to see if any dried-on blobs of filler or epoxy can be removed first as well. If they should be well bonded into the bulkhead it could split if the adhesive/filler does not "let go" at the same time as the keel bond.

If any excess blobs of adhesive/filler are firmly set and show no movement at all, a Dremel and a stone can be used to grind away the volume to weaken the joint before bashing the shaft as it will reduce the stress on the hull skins and the weaker joint will come away easier.

Always remove as much filler/adhesive as you can as the firmer the shafts are held in the hull, the greater the chance of causing any collateral damage as more shock would be needed to shift them.

Stay safe,

Bob.