Topic: Building Annie 2 (Read 16022 times)

peterpan · « **Reply #75 on:** August 18, 2021, 02:53:09 pm »

Next job was to complete the connection of the rudder to the servo
The brass arm on top of the rudder must be easily removed through the access hatch to the allow the rudder to be removed for transport. Pic 135 135a 135b.
I made a brass arm to fit the top of ruder stock. The bent wire arrangement is as shown in the plans and allows the arm to remain in the boat when the rudder is removed. Pic 136 137

roycv · « **Reply #76 on:** August 18, 2021, 04:16:06 pm »

Hi I usually file a notch in the top of the rudder stock where the securing screw is and just in case the securing screw comes loose, the potential is for the rudder to drop straight out the bottom. With a notch there you have a bit of leeway, its a belt and braces thing with me, do as you see fit! The braces bit is my rudders are mostly made of wood and ought to float.

Roy

peterpan · « **Reply #77 on:** August 18, 2021, 05:14:28 pm »

Thanks RoyGreat advice, mine would sink like a stone. Not sure what you mean by a slot but I am thinking mabe a small hole with a cotter pin
Cheers Peter.

roycv · « **Reply #78 on:** August 18, 2021, 05:25:40 pm »

Hi Peter that would work, the slot I mentioned is where the screw touches the rudder stock, I file a flat, not very deep at this point it also gives a bit more of a seating for the screw to locate into.
Regards
Roy

peterpan · « **Reply #79 on:** August 18, 2021, 05:37:38 pm »

Thanks Roy

mrlownotes · « **Reply #80 on:** August 18, 2021, 05:50:57 pm »

Quote from: roycv on August 18, 2021, 05:25:40 pm

Hi Peter that would work, the slot I mentioned is where the screw touches the rudder stock, I file a flat, not very deep at this point it also gives a bit more of a seating for the screw to locate into.
Regards
Roy

I add a drop of blue threadlock on the screw.

peterpan · « **Reply #81 on:** September 08, 2021, 06:20:40 pm »

Next job was to arrange to get sheets through the deck and onto the winch line. The recommended way is a simple flared copper pipe lead through the deck with fairleads to get sheet in line with the winch line,
This is the system that I have been thinking about almost since I started the project. Which resulted in a classic case of overthinking as you will see.
I have always been concerned that when trying to let the sheets out, the winch line will be letting the sheets loose in the bottom of the boat and if the wind is not strong enough to make the sail pull the sheets up through the deck and you then tried to sheet in would the sheets tangle.
The answer should almost certainly be no because this is how the designer controls all his boats, many have been built al over the world using this system, but I still thought I would try and make the sheets more captive
First, I worked out how I could run continuous tubing Pic 138. Then I did some friction testing Pic 139. Then I found I would have to flare one end in situ Pic 140. Then I realized that because some sheets must pass through the frames it would require a major redesign of through deck fittings to be able to install it, so I stopped thinking and went back to the recommend method.

peterpan · « **Reply #82 on:** September 08, 2021, 06:27:50 pm »

Copper tube leads through deck Pic 141. I have raised the entry on the deck to help keep water out pic Pic 141a and will eventually dress these in some way Pic 141b.
I used copper tube to guide the sheets in line with the winch line Pic 142 The pics are for the 2 sheets, from gaff sail and main sail, which are attached on the winch line close to the sail winch.
The jib sheet which is attached to the winch line at the forward end of the line is a much simpler installation Pic 143
I will cover the attachment of the sheets to the winch line when I fit them.

peterpan · « **Reply #83 on:** September 08, 2021, 06:37:46 pm »

There was one problem. The main sail sheet goes through the deck next to the cockpit and then must go across and through the bulkhead behind the winch, (don’t worry if this is not clear) and once the deck is fixed and there is no access to this space, so I had to make an access Pic 144. Another bonus of this access is that if I drop the wing nut when fitting or removing the rudder stock it would end up in this space.
There is not room to build a removable hatch so made a removable plate which at some later date I may use to attach a steering wheel. Pic145/146

peterpan · « **Reply #84 on:** September 08, 2021, 06:47:14 pm »

I am now working on mast, booms and sails and looking at standing and running rigging.

AndyBiggs · « **Reply #85 on:** September 08, 2021, 07:00:00 pm »

Good luck with the rigging
Like how you are finishing the sheet leads with rope

peterpan · « **Reply #86 on:** October 23, 2021, 10:55:26 am »

During September made some good progress
The masts and spares are strait forward to using hardwood doweling shaped at the ends. Side cheek supports made for shrouds and wire loops fitted retain sheet blocks, and gaff jaws made all as the plans. Pics 147 148 149

peterpan · « **Reply #87 on:** October 23, 2021, 10:59:01 am »

Gaff Jaws

peterpan · « **Reply #88 on:** October 23, 2021, 11:23:52 am »

The making of the goose necks for the main and gaff booms was a bit mor fiddly, particularly as I have little experience of brass work, soldering etc. but we got there in the end. Pic 150 151 152 153

peterpan · « **Reply #89 on:** October 23, 2021, 11:27:32 am »

Before starting on sails, I needed to finish portholes in main cabin. From the start I intended to make the portholes, see post 30 Jan 21, but now with so many finishing jobs to do and they are important for the finished look, I chickened out and bought them. Pic 154 155

mrzippy · « **Reply #90 on:** October 24, 2021, 09:08:49 am »

Coming together very nicely ! on the home stretch. Paul

Circlip · « **Reply #91 on:** October 24, 2021, 01:36:36 pm »

Might seem a dampener, but rather than "Cheeks" soft soldered to the tube, I would have used a single piece wrap round onto the tube. Soft solder is not a good load bearer.

Regards Ian.

peterpan · « **Reply #92 on:** October 25, 2021, 04:53:30 pm »

Hi Ian.Sorry I resized the photo a bit small, but it is a single piece wrapped round onto the tube

Peter

peterpan · « **Reply #93 on:** October 27, 2021, 11:17:20 am »

Sails
All the sail work was carried out by my super seamstress wife. I just took the photos.
Make paper templets from sail dimensions on plans and match to mast and boom Pic 156

peterpan · « **Reply #94 on:** October 27, 2021, 11:19:30 am »

Make sails hems, bolt ropes, which form eyes and reinforcement patches Pic 157 158 159

peterpan · « **Reply #95 on:** October 27, 2021, 11:27:31 am »

Fit sails to mast and booms Pic 160 161

peterpan · « **Reply #96 on:** October 27, 2021, 11:28:41 am »

Sails complete Pic 162

AndyBiggs · « **Reply #97 on:** October 29, 2021, 08:11:02 am »

This is looking very impressive
I’ll expect it will sail really well

peterpan · « **Reply #98 on:** October 30, 2021, 11:52:45 am »

Thanks Andy. I am pleased so far, getting closer to the water.
I have just finished the standing and running rigging, (see next posts),

the next and last major job is to cast the keel. I am taking a risk by having a shorter keel and heavier weight. If it does not work, I will have to build another one as the plans.
When this is done, I am hoping to do a short test sail with the deck temporarily screwed and tapped down to see how she sits with the shorter keel and check it all works before permanently fitting the deck and doing all the finishing bits.
Also, it will give some idea how I can launch and recover the boat with a bad back without damaging it. (The boat that is)
Cheers

peterpan · « **Reply #99 on:** October 30, 2021, 11:56:00 am »

Just a comment about standing and running rigging fittings.
The designer, Gary Webb, has specifically set out to enable the building of a good-looking recognizable style RC sailboat, using readily available hardware store materials, and basic hand/DIY tools, which is what attracted me to it in the first place.This is most apparent with the simple standing and running rigging fittings he makes.
Throughout the build my IOM experience has made me question some of these methods. Shroud/deck fittings are readily available in the RC racing world (at a cost) but I am finding that the loads that will be imposed on all aspects of the sail rig of the schooner are small compared to say an IOM, and of course she will be sailed for fun only in the right conditions, so am sticking with the plan and making these fittings

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Author Topic: Building Annie 2 (Read 16022 times)