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[Liverbudgie2]

Cover the bulwarks with a thin smear of P38 or similar before fitting the underdeck and then sand flat or as flat as possible, when the main deck is secured in position then go around the edge with a smear of filler clean any excess with a fine sand paper and then finish off and define the sharp edge by using a sharpe blade or chisle; don't forget also to fit and finish the stem post before fitting the underdeck in its final position.


It is also advisable to fit and secure all the hull fittings in position before you contemplate painting anything. By looking at your pictures it is hard to work out just where your painted water line is however, the correct level  is just above the bottom edge of the lower strake.


LB , (who is currently working on his fourth version of this hull)

[eternal422]

Cover the bulwarks with a thin smear of P38 or similar before fitting the underdeck and then sand flat or as flat as possible, when the main deck is secured in position then go around the edge with a smear of filler clean any excess with a fine sand paper and then finish off and define the sharp edge by using a sharpe blade or chisle; don't forget also to fit and finish the stem post before fitting the underdeck in its final position.


It is also advisable to fit and secure all the hull fittings in position before you contemplate painting anything. By looking at your pictures it is hard to work out just where your painted water line is however, the correct level  is just above the bottom edge of the lower strake.


LB , (who is currently working on his fourth version of this hull)

Thanks for the advice about the bulwarks - I'll give it a go as this does seem to be the main way people use to get smooth bulwarks and the instructions do suggest this method.  Thank you also for the comment about the stem post, I hadn't thought about trying the fit before fixing the underdeck, so hopefully this will save me some heartache by trying the fit before final fitting !

I had the waterline at the top edge of the green frog tape, which does put the waterline just below the lower rubbing strake.  I did it fairly roughly just to get an idea for the ballast needed but will be re-doing the waterline much more accurately before doing any painting.


I had planned to paint the outside of the hull before final installation of running gear then underdeck and moving on to adding the bulwark fittings, getting all those done before painting the bulwarks - is this what you mean by securing all the hull fittings before painting?


Many thanks for your advice, I still feel very much a newbie here, this being my first grp hull (and ship for that matter, as my first model was a narrowboat which is of very different design/construction!).

[Liverbudgie2]

Thanks for the advice about the bulwarks - I'll give it a go as this does seem to be the main way people use to get smooth bulwarks and the instructions do suggest this method.  Thank you also for the comment about the stem post, I hadn't thought about trying the fit before fixing the underdeck, so hopefully this will save me some heartache by trying the fit before final fitting !

I had the waterline at the top edge of the green frog tape, which does put the waterline just below the lower rubbing strake.  I did it fairly roughly just to get an idea for the ballast needed but will be re-doing the waterline much more accurately before doing any painting.
It would be advisable to have the paint line a little above the bottom of the lower rubbing strake as this will allow you to add more ballast, which is something I would recommend if you wanted to sail in areas where it is likely to resemble real sea going conditions. All my models have sailed on Windermere with no problems for instance. However, it is your model and you should paint how you wish, it is only a genetic model, there wasn’t Danny Boy in real life, at least as far as I’m aware.
I had planned to paint the outside of the hull before final installation of running gear then underdeck and moving on to adding the bulwark fittings, getting all those done before painting the bulwarks - is this what you mean by securing all the hull fittings before painting?
Yes, this includes the bulwark capping, stanchions. cleats etc, but not the handrail stanchions. I wait until I’ve finished the hull and underdeck before painting. When I do begin, I use a rattle tin of red primer all over the hull and deck, then mark the paint line and mask off the bottom of the hull and then paint the upper half in whatever colour you desire.
Before I forget, was the hull in soapy water, don’t use washing up liquid, and as you are doing that use a fine grit wet and dry paper to give a key for the paint otherwise you may find the paint peeling off which, is really quite frustrating and gives rise to much ungentlemanly language and depression. On completion, spray a coat or two of matt varnish over the whole model.
Many thanks for your advice, I still feel very much a newbie here, this being my first grp hull (and ship for that matter, as my first model was a narrowboat which is of very different design/construction!).

[eternal422]

After advice from LB (thank you!) I re-tried ballasting Danny Boy in the test tank, getting the hull a bit further down into the water.  After a bit of juggling of lead shot I ended up with the waterline on the lower strake and the bow about another centimetre lower in the water.  The top of the rudder is just below the water and seems to be ok.


It took 1.8kg in the bow, 0.775kg in the stern and some removable ballast either side of the motor of 0.436kg each.  So a total ballast of just around 3.5kg.  The white metal parts I left in their box amidships as a rough estimate of their weight, but I know that I will have some room to play with using removable ballast for final trimming when the boat is built and in the real water!  Currently, with a very unscientific spirit level method it does seem to be floating level and not listing to either side.


Next job will be to set the bow and stern lead shot in epoxy now that I’m happy with the distribution and weights.

[eternal422]

Did the P38 on the bulwarks which was much easier than I had been imagining.  I managed to do it with two batches of the filler as it didn’t cure as fast as I thought it would.  Sanding after about 30 minutes I managed to get everything really smooth and level.  I then spent ages re-fitting the underdeck so that I had a good fit all around.


I also did some research on the stem post (pictures below) and found that it can be fitted after the deck as it should be fitted into the outside of the grp hull, cutting the hull away in the same way as I did for the stern frame.  Interestingly I came across a couple of pictures of Danny Boy, one with the piece just attached to the outside of the hull which looks odd and then a review of the Osprey (another Mountfleet model which is an armed version of Danny Boy) which clearly shows the method of fitting the stem post.

[eternal422]

Spent a bit of time this morning on trying out fitting the propellor, in advance of fixing the motor plate with epoxy.  The prop is a LH pitch so needs to spin counter-clockwise (when you are looking at the propellor) to push the boat forwards.  Had to reverse the wires on the motor to match this to the stick movement on the RC controller.  Seems to work ok and I can feel a nice draft when on full ahead so I know it’s going forwards.  Learned something from the web, if you place your hand on one of the prop blades (whilst it’s not spinning ) and your fingers point downwards then it is a LH pitch, if they point up then it’s a RH pitch.  Amazing how much there is to learn about boats!

[derekwarner]

You have a LH rotation propeller  [by convention looking from the stern]....when you think about it     a propeller rotating anticlockwise, will have a tightening effect on the right hand threaded propeller shaft


We also see the propeller locknut, with is sensible insurance [size=78%] [/size]


Derek

[Liverbudgie2]

I also did some research on the stem post (pictures below) and found that it can be fitted after the deck as it should be fitted into the outside of the grp hull, cutting the hull away in the same way as I did for the stern frame.  Interestingly I came across a couple of pictures of Danny Boy, one with the piece just attached to the outside of the hull which looks odd and then a review of the Osprey (another Mountfleet model which is an armed version of Danny Boy) which clearly shows the method of fitting the stem post.

The Osprey review in MB was mine BTW. She is in the workshop undergoing a major refit because a lot of the superglue joints are giving way and in of need of attention. The next one is there as well, this will be my own take on a similar vessel which, may or may not, be revelled in due course.
[/size]
[/size]LB

[eternal422]

The Osprey review in MB was mine BTW. She is in the workshop undergoing a major refit because a lot of the superglue joints are giving way and in of need of attention. The next one is there as well, this will be my own take on a similar vessel which, may or may not, be revelled in due course.

LB

I did wonder!  I saw reference to New Brighton (your Liverbudgie handle) and Lake Windermere in the article!  Lovely model, I hope I can get somewhere near the quality!  Very useful article and helpful for me building Danny Boy already!

[eternal422]

A day’s work and some progress, underdeck now glued down, forward hatch opened up (I thought it may prove to be useful when fishing wires through for the mast lights), stem post and bow plate installed and bulwark cappings almost all done - remainder of starboard side to complete then some filling and sanding to tidy everything up before moving on to the bulwark fittings.


Thanks to LB’s advice on getting these steps done before going anywhere near painting as I now see that the upper edge of the hull will get some sanding when I do the bulwark cappings.

[eternal422]

Some pictures of the hull before fitting the deck today showing everything in place.  I chickened out of epoxy-ing the lead shot ballast in the bow and stern and used some diver’s pouches instead.  At least with this method I can adjust the ballast and place them in the hull through the main hatch.  I’m using little plastic strips of sorting boxes for the ballast needed either side of the motor, again these can be placed, adjusted, etc. as required.

[eternal422]

Enjoying the February sunshine!  Took Danny Boy outside for a spot of filler around the bulwark cappings and deck edge, then enjoyed a beer and wondered how much sanding would be required next!

[Dreadnought]

That's my favourite way of modelling lol 
Seriously looks good or though. 

[SteamboatPhil]

must be hard working upside down 
Seriously its looking really good, congratulations 

[eternal422]

That's my favourite way of modelling lol 
Seriously looks good or though. 

  Did the same today, very enjoyable!

[eternal422]

must be hard working upside down 
Seriously its looking really good, congratulations 

Thank you!  I feel it’s starting to look like a boat now, looking forward to moving on to the bulwark fittings!

[eternal422]

Started on the inner bulwarks, cutting triangles from 0.8mm ply and trying my best to match the different angles!  Hopeful that the finished result will benefit from the CA gap filling properties will mean once painted everything will look ok.

[eternal422]

A day off and spent my time on bulwark support manufacture and fitting, ending up with everything done all round the hull.  On to coamings for superstructure and hatches tomorrow.  Slowly but surely Danny Boy is taking shape and looking more and more like a boat.

[Capt Podge]

Well, that's what you might call 'a productive day off' - good going 


Ray.

[kevin547n]

thats going to look fantastic, i loved my Mountfleet St Nectan build (Static)

[RST]

Might I suggest a shot of primer on things before you go too far?  Usual thing is to get it looking good and smooth by finger feel and eye, then on first pass of primer you will find whereas it looked a smooth as a baby's bum -looks more like the surface of the moon!
I know it's not universally accepted to put primer on before the rest of things are glued down (some paint everything, some paint none), but in my case anyway it lets me see, and most of the primer ends up sanded back anyway -certainly more than enough for adhesives to stick, or you just cut those bit back a bit more (or apply masking tape if needed /pedantic).

[eternal422]

Might I suggest a shot of primer on things before you go too far?  Usual thing is to get it looking good and smooth by finger feel and eye, then on first pass of primer you will find whereas it looked a smooth as a baby's bum -looks more like the surface of the moon!
I know it's not universally accepted to put primer on before the rest of things are glued down (some paint everything, some paint none), but in my case anyway it lets me see, and most of the primer ends up sanded back anyway -certainly more than enough for adhesives to stick, or you just cut those bit back a bit more (or apply masking tape if needed /pedantic).

Thanks for the suggestion  [size=78%] Deciding when to start painting has always been hard for me, but I decided to get the bulwark fittings completed first, which I’ve now done.  I will get the coamings done then pause work on the hull until painting, at least the primer.  This will have to be done outdoors, so waiting for this wind to die down and a nice calm, dry day to tackle that!  I feel that I am fast reaching the point where I will need to wait to get some painting done before progressing further.[/size]

[eternal422]

Well, that's what you might call 'a productive day off' - good going 


Ray.

Thanks Ray.  Learning all the way, but thoroughly enjoying it!

[eternal422]

thats going to look fantastic, i loved my Mountfleet St Nectan build (Static)

Thank you!  I bet the St Nectan was great fun!  I was very tempted with the Boston Typhoon, but settled on Danny Boy as I haven’t got the skills (yet) to tackle such a big project, maybe one for retirement!  I can see little mistakes and where things could have been better, but I’m still pleased with the overall look and progress.  What’s more important, I’m enjoying it immensely and it helps take my mind off this pandemic!

[eternal422]

Second day off work and lots of fiddling to get the coamings just right.  Still got to work on the superstructure one to match the uneven moulding.  Not that the moulding is bad, just not totally square.  The plans do say using shims of ply to make it a tight fit, so that will definitely be another day now!