A new one..!
Welcome!
I think I have made all the possible mistakes. You are welcome to check them out:
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,53761.0.htmlMy work progresses slowly - yes starting early 2016.
I did attempt to fill the imperfections of the hull and used something you don’t want to repeat
. There must exist a filler that is perfect for dents and larger areas of problem. On the other hand the need to fill depends on what stage of the vessel life span you plan to simulate; new out of the warf, or used after over 40 years of service.
I have received some comments about the stern of the Billings S.N. being ”like a plastic bag” and vibrating by the vibration of the motors and especially any imperfections in the alignment of the whole driveline. One of my early running trials made the whole stern shake like crazy and I was afraid the whole build was going to fall apart. I made a clumsy attempt to fiberglass the inside to make it more robust and it may be a good idea for you to do just that - only properly. Now that your hull is still wide open. (After fiberglassing and realignment, I don’t have shakes anymore).
Glueing anything against ABS requires a glue that adheres to ABS. Glues seem to be different in different markets, but what it’s worth, I used a two component ”Bison” polyurethan glue. I love it and use it elsewhere, too. It does not dry glass-like hard, but ever so flexible to negotiate any shocks. The deck against ABS hull has already taken some hits with no problem. I recieved mixed messages concerning epoxy on ABS. 180 degrees different.
I agree with JimG about the quality of the plywood. My kit is ancient and it may be that the quality has improved since. I have stubbornly used plywood everywhere - and it shows. In future, I will teach myself the art of plasticard modelling. So far, I tried it simulating the covering plates of the fenders, and lately, on the wheel house door frames. And looking at the work of the likes of JimG, Taranis, Chipchase and many many more, makes me want plasticard for correcting, or evading, many of my setbacks, which are mostly due to my lack of skill to work plywood. Of course, it’s an illusion: I would have eqally little skills for working plasticard, too.
And thank you,
JimG, for reminding me about the problems of brass prop-
shaft (not props)! I have been meaning to switch them to steel ones.
Think about the props for a while and find the discussion in my blog (Derekwarner, reply #11). I decided I can afford kort props. Although judging by the price, they could have been made of 18kt gold...