Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Hull rivets  (Read 1734 times)

tassie48

  • bikes birds and burnups
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 303
  • Location: now in New Zealand
Hull rivets
« on: February 01, 2021, 08:35:33 pm »

Hi crew doing research on Metinda lll chasing hull plating jobbing which is a major project have a few inquiries out for this, my question is I now require rivets for the hull plating any one no off a good supplier of rivets in 1.24 scale may require quite a few and no not a rivet counter should you ask lol  anyhow if anyone's used them for a model are they glued and pressed in or just glued on thanks for looking regards tassie48
Logged

Umi_Ryuzuki

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,395
  • Location: PDX, OR USA
    • Models and Miniatures
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2021, 08:42:31 pm »

I have seen glue applications, and embossing...
I did some thick CA dots for window rivets. I lightly sanded the frames, then measured and
penciled locations, then wiped a bit of kicker across the surface, the started applying dots.

These seem simple enough, decals, by Archer Transfers.
https://archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsNaval.html
.
Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aptnvFeEqio

Fred Ellis

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 433
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: West Sussex
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2021, 07:08:04 am »

Hi
Have a look at Cambrian model rail, I got 230 1.5mm rivet heads from them cost £2.40 + p/p
www.cambrianmodelrail.co.uk/store/search?keywords=na7


Fred
Logged
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.

tassie48

  • bikes birds and burnups
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 303
  • Location: now in New Zealand
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2021, 07:00:29 pm »

Thanks guys on to it much appreciated tassie48
Logged

RST

  • Guest
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2021, 07:58:52 pm »

I don't envy you on that one!  Pretty sure the usual method of a waterproof glue of choice applied with a pin or cocktail stick would work though I've never set myself up with so many to do before.  Cheaper than buying but excluding the price of sanity.


I did hear someone say the archer dots slipped for them. Possibly Steve in AUS / NZ who does exquisite static builds?
Logged

tassie48

  • bikes birds and burnups
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 303
  • Location: now in New Zealand
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2021, 08:35:12 pm »

Looking into the following making a mold with rivets on it cast in resin and resin to hull in lengths or at Stainless steel pins cut down and resined to the jobbing plates either way its not a easy ask , good thing she is a big hull some 1800 mm X 420 mm wide so plenty of room to detail her up tassie48
Logged

Geoff

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,179
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2021, 12:41:47 pm »

When looking at hull rivets do reflect that most were countersunk to reduce drag so are barely visible. Rivits on superstructures were sometimes countersunk and sometimes domed. Domed were used more on non naval vessels. WW1 Battleships had very smooth hulls and whilst the plate lines are visible its impossible to see the actual rivets as they were countersunk.


Ships had different types of rivets dependent on the structure. For large ships outer plating was often 1" thick in key areas which easily took countersunk rivets but higher up plating was about 1/2" so different types were used, domed, flat head etc.



A probable exception was the small tramp steamers which were built down to a cost and domed rivets were cheaper as the holes did not need to be tapered.


In my opinion hull rivets need to be done very discretely and many models can be spoiled with oversized rivets. We need to reflect on how big a rivet is in real life as its easy to overdo the effect.


Cheers


Geoff
Logged

JimG

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,268
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Dundee
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2021, 08:04:29 pm »

For countersunk hull rivets you could try the method used by aircraft modellers. Aircraft, especially high performance ones, generally use countersunk rivets on their exterior surfaces. To show them on models they use a tool made from a copper or brass tube of the correct diameter held on to the tip of a soldering iron. The heated tube is then applied to the primer coating wherever a rivet is needed. This leaves a ring in the paint and when the top coat is added this shows up under the paint as a countersunk rivet.
Jim
Logged
Dundee Model Boat club

RST

  • Guest
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2021, 09:14:37 pm »

Now we know it's making a plug for a mould.  Without knowing the plug construction there are options there. Also unless a total labour of love which I don't imagine the case from other questions I'd be looking at packs of nails or tacks, not cutting and profiling individually from rod unless you have a decade to do it. Unless of course you want to go that route.
Logged

785boats

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 110
  • Location: Brisbane Australia
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2021, 09:02:47 am »

Although these are not countersunk rivets, I just thought I'd show how I simulated rivets on the Spuyten Duyvil spar torpedo boat.
The process may be of help in some form or other to some modellers.
It starts at page 4, but the previous three pages may be of interest to you.
Goodness gracious. This was 12 years ago and the boat is still not finished. :embarrassed:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1322405-USS-Spuyten-Duyvil/page4
Logged

dodes

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 988
  • Location: Hampshire
Re: Hull rivets
« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2021, 08:24:19 pm »

Most riveted boats of that size and above were usually countersunk, they usually don't show until old age and corrosion sets in. Walked round and under the old St Margarets hull in 1986 and she was very smooth apart from the rows of plating. When I bought the Lady Jan hull I spent hours trying to sandpaper of the rivet heads. But at the end of the day its your model and do what you want with it so that it looks right in your eye not others. Good luck its a nice tug you are going to model and I wish you great success with it and hope to see it on this site when it is completed.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.1 seconds with 21 queries.