Model Boat Mayhem

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Author Topic: Modeen Steam Models.  (Read 6013 times)

belli

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Re: Modeen Steam Models.
« Reply #50 on: January 24, 2021, 08:25:02 pm »

Good suggestion Geoff!

Some more progress, all the engine pieces have been made and assembled.  Just need to drill the two angled steam ports through the cylinder and then I can run it on air.  I made a real hash of the first cylinder and so made a new one which I am much happier with.  The first was a little heavier and more 'bulky', this one is a little more delicate and looks more in proportion.  I have reduced the bore to 10mm but the stroke remains at 7/16".  I did this as I had a feeling that the boiler might not be able to supply enough steam.   If it isn't right I will make a new cylinder.

I made a right hash of the drip tray too, I filed too much away in the corners and when I bent them up there are gaps.  What I should have done is cut them a little smaller and then filed 45deg. bevels on the edges so that when folded up they will close.  I'll make this item over soon.  I will also turn up some spacers of about 1/16" or 1/8" to put underneath the drip tray to lift it off the bottom of the boat.  Will allow moisture to evaporate and any heat from the burner won't make a hole in the bottom of my boat....

I ordered some allegedly waterproof servos and should receive them early next week.  I say allegedly as they were only $8 each and the ones that I suspect really are waterproof were closer to $18.Can't find a link right now but it's these:  https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000934248997.html


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KNO3

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Re: Modeen Steam Models.
« Reply #51 on: January 25, 2021, 08:04:42 am »

The engine looks really nice.  You could solder the corners of the tray to close the gaps.
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belli

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Re: Modeen Steam Models.
« Reply #52 on: January 31, 2021, 08:13:27 pm »

So....

A new drip tray was made and this is much better, no gaps in the corners at all.  I also made it a little bigger but I was dum and should have made it a bit longer.

The drive coupling was made and a wedge to mount the engine machined from alu.  I can now look at drilling the mounting holes for the drip tray but I may hold off until I am bit further along with the boiler.  Busy turning a flange to mount the boiler, from brass, as that is what I have.  The chimney will be some 1/2" copper tube and I haven't decided if I will add some cross tubes. 

I will start thinking about the burner, it will be a simple meths burner for this one, much like the original.

I have managed to get a few dimensions of an original courtesy of an online member.  This one is 3/8" too short and 1/8" too narrow, I have redrawn the plans at the correct dimensions and will post them here when I am done.

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belli

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Re: Modeen Steam Models.
« Reply #53 on: February 07, 2021, 09:09:15 pm »

A little more progress....

I am almost at the stage of soldering the boiler, I thought I better try on a less important one first to get a bit of experience.  I have started building the little Midwest Fantail, the construction has not progressed beyond laser cutting all the parts but I did start with the two boilers.   The flanges were made some time ago along with most of the other parts, yesterday I got to soldering them.
A few lessons were learned:
1.  The longer the solder rod the better.
2.  Wear a glove, I don't need to shave the hair on my hands anymore.
3.  Never too much flux.
4.  The radiated heat was far more than anticipated.
5.  Keep the part hot while flowing the solder.


Probably a few more lessons in there.  My blow torch kept bursting into flames too and I had to blow out the flames while working.  I think I have fixed it now (I hope).

The first photo is of the joint inside the boiler (top), the solder seems to have flowed nicely around the joint.   The first crack at soldering this I felt that there wasn't enough solder on the outside to form a nice fillet, so I fluxed it up again and re-flowed while adding solder.  I might have put a touch too much solder but I think its OK.  The bottom went OK along with the second boiler.  These are 2" diameter and about 21/2" long.  What looks like solder on the surface is a very thin layer (paper thin) that i might scrape off.  These parts will go in the bead blaster tomorrow at work.

The boilers are then wrapped in a 1/16" ceramic 'paper' jacket for insulation with a brass 0.015" sheet wrapper.  The wrapper is made from shim stock which is quite hard.  I "xxxxx" around with it until deciding to anneal it.  I thought that the annealing would turn the brass black or dis-colour it but it was far easier than I thought.  The first I dipped in the pickle and the copper floating on top left it with some stains that will rub out easily.  The second I left to air cool and there was no dis-colourisation at all.  Its nice and soft now and rolls very easily, you can see the parts I have started making for the boiler bands.  The top half of the boiler will get a mahogany cladding.

The third photo is the AQ boiler, about ready for soldering.  I have fitted three ports on the top and I might add two on the side if I want to add a level gauge at some time.  I haven't decided how high to make the inside flange, the flue is 7/8" diameter, the boiler is 3" diameter, about 4" high.   The brass base ring was made from two pieces, a piece of tubing soldered to a ring cut from sheet.  They were then placed in the lathe and turned down until it looked about right.  I haven't decided if I will solder this ring to the boiler or screw it on???



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