The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions > Bait Boats
AT Procat bait boat problems and advice
taffybouy:
Folks,
This is a long post so please be patient. I've included a wiring diagram of the existing setup and I'll try to give you the story and then the points I'd like help with.
I've done some homework already but there are a number of grey areas and I'm not just talking about my hair!!!
So, I have an AT Procat bait boat. It stopped working because the handset board was corroded. I took it to a model RC shop local to me on the Wirral and the guy really didn't want to touch it as he wasn't sure about opening it up. I convinced him saying that I'd seal it but didn't really know where to start with the internals.
He changed out the handset converting to 2.4 but here's where the issues start. Even though it now worked things were back to front. forward on the stick went backwards and left went right etc.. The reverse function on the handset did nothing to alter things.
At this point I wasn't bothered because at least I could use it.
During one early morning take and rebaiting or reboating as I like to call it, I wasn't entirely with it and steered it into shallow water getting the hopper door stuck and almost losing the boat.
This made me think of opening it up and getting things sorted and is where I am now.
Boat works but is back to front, underpowered on one motor and won't turn properly to one side.
Points for answering please:
Repair the existing:
1: Is there anything I can get to check the RPM of the motors to ensure they are both fine? Is there a measurement of resistance I can do with a fluke mutlimeter for example or something I can connect to the prop and let it rip to count their speed?
2: Looking at my wiring diagram, is there any way I can power the new handset from the power switch rather than directly from the battery? Is there a reason why it has to be direct from the battery may be a better question to ask?
3: VCC CH1 connects and works powering the motors and uses a 2 pin connection on one stick. VCC CH 2 only has 1 pin and doesn't seem to cut the motor when turned to the right whereas it does cut the motor when turned to the left. This confuses me to bogglement. There is space for a pin to be soldered onto the controller board which is what I'm tempted to do. Would you suggest this would resolve my issue or is not soldered there already because of a reason?
With the above being bespoke would you suggest replacing some parts for off the shelf products as per the below:
1: New esc's removing the function from the controller board?
2: My handset is a throttle left control stick and a steering right control stick. Can I still use this 2 channel handset keeping in mind that the hopper door releases when I go back and right on the control sticks?
3: If I need to remove the hopper control from the controller board too how can I open the hopper without an extra channel on the handset? The hopper seems to use a single wire which heats the wire pulling it tight and opening the hopper.
4: The main action of the controller board at this point would just be the LED lights which flash when its lost signal and go solid when signal is locked to the handset. Do I actually need it for this and is there another output from the new parts I could tap into for this function?
I appreciate I've given 2 scenarios here but this is logic I'm working from.
Repair or replace is the first question I need advice on then I need to work through the rest using your advice and experience.
I want the boat to be usable and hopefully not need to open it up again so something that will last. Money isn't the main driving force on this, function and reliability are, but in the same breath I'm not swimming in it so keeping costs reasonable would be great.
taffybouy:
Lets see if this pic attachment works better as the last went wonky for some reason
radiojoe:
Hi Taffy, glad you got the hang of posting photos, not having used a control board before I can't help with your problems, I use ESC's for motors and servos for any other functions, I know PCB boards in a wet or damp environment can have problems with the many tiny solder joints, I hope that some of the Bait Boat guys may be able to help.
Joe
taffybouy:
Would you be able to shed any light on the replacement options then?
Ignore the controller board being part of the scenario and go with new reliable parts.
HMS Invisible:
--- Quote from: taffybouy on February 24, 2021, 11:11:01 am ---...Even though it now worked things were back to front. forward on the stick went backwards and left went right etc.. The reverse function on the handset did nothing to alter things.
...
--- End quote ---
There is probably an additional step in the instructions, like rebinding or resetting.
--- Quote ---Points for answering please:
Repair the existing:
1: Is there anything I can get to check the RPM of the motors to ensure they are both fine? Is there a measurement of resistance I can do with a fluke mutlimeter for example or something I can connect to the prop and let it rip to count their speed?
--- End quote ---
An infra red tacho (from ebay) will confirm what you already know. The motors are probably fine. Look for the reason one motor is turning more slowly.
--- Quote ---2: Looking at my wiring diagram, is there any way I can power the new handset from the power switch rather than directly from the battery? Is there a reason why it has to be direct from the battery may be a better question to ask?
--- End quote ---
To answer, I'd need a clearer mental picture.
--- Quote ---3: VCC CH1 connects and works powering the motors and uses a 2 pin connection on one stick. VCC CH 2 only has 1 pin and doesn't seem to cut the motor when turned to the right whereas it does cut the motor when turned to the left. This confuses me to bogglement. There is space for a pin to be soldered onto the controller board which is what I'm tempted to do. Would you suggest this would resolve my issue or is not soldered there already because of a reason?
--- End quote ---
CH2 only needs a signal and nothing else.
You already have a 0volt reference in CH1. Your Fluke meter continuity will show that.
Adding a redundant wire creates a parallel path, which you don't want.
--- Quote ---
With the above being bespoke would you suggest replacing some parts for off the shelf products as per the below:
1: New esc's removing the function from the controller board?
2: My handset is a throttle left control stick and a steering right control stick. Can I still use this 2 channel handset keeping in mind that the hopper door releases when I go back and right on the control sticks?
3: If I need to remove the hopper control from the controller board too how can I open the hopper without an extra channel on the handset? The hopper seems to use a single wire which heats the wire pulling it tight and opening the hopper.
4: The main action of the controller board at this point would just be the LED lights which flash when its lost signal and go solid when signal is locked to the handset. Do I actually need it for this and is there another output from the new parts I could tap into for this function?
--- End quote ---
I assume it is only a 3 function transmitter and receiver you got from the shop.
You generate more & better suggestions from more people if you describe what you have. - photos, radio and boat make/model/revision, internet links etc.
I've seen some online photos of both sides the procat controller boards that matches your sketch on an old bait boat forum. I understand a lot from a photo but I don't know the common faults. I suggest tracing the circuit in more detail and continuity test any switch or relay contacts.
--- Quote ---
I appreciate I've given 2 scenarios here but this is logic I'm working from.
Repair or replace is the first question I need advice on then I need to work through the rest using your advice and experience.
I want the boat to be usable and hopefully not need to open it up again so something that will last. Money isn't the main driving force on this, function and reliability are, but in the same breath I'm not swimming in it so keeping costs reasonable would be great.
--- End quote ---
I have no hands on experience of bait boats. I've sourced parts for a bait boat maker and designed RC electrics.
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