Topic: 1/50 Smit Rotterdam (Read 3424 times)

Mat_B · « **on:** February 25, 2021, 10:54:33 pm »

This has been a pipedream of mine for many years now.
I part built a Billings Smit Rotterdam as a teenager but after getting about 90% through the woodwork aspect and then got seriously frustrated with the detailing so it was abandoned!

Now i have started it again but I am taking it and scaling it up by a factor of 1.56 to give an overall length of around 1450mm and a scale of 1/50. This will be a big beast!

Started with the superstructure which is 1.5mm plasticard and is coming togwther nicely but slowly from scaling up the parts.

Mat_B · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2021, 11:03:40 pm »

Photos attached

Mat_B · « **Reply #2 on:** February 27, 2021, 10:08:02 pm »

More progress on the superstructure. Roof is still removeable to allow an interior to be made and fitted.
What filler is recommended for plasticard? Is milliput any use?

Hande · « **Reply #3 on:** February 27, 2021, 10:17:40 pm »

Smit Rotterdam is my dream, too!
I'm, going to follow your build with great interest. You make your dream come true

My problem with the Billings kit was that I was afraid of building the hull from long wood.

regards, Hande

Mat_B · « **Reply #4 on:** February 27, 2021, 10:46:30 pm »

Thanks!
I am unsure on my hull construction at the moment I am trying to decide between a plug and mould or plank on frame at the moment. I feel like a fibreglassed plank on frame will be my decision as it is less work for the one hull I need

cos918 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 28, 2021, 09:45:21 am »

Quote from: Mat_B on February 27, 2021, 10:46:30 pm

Thanks!
I am unsure on my hull construction at the moment I am trying to decide between a plug and mould or plank on frame at the moment. I feel like a fibreglassed plank on frame will be my decision as it is less work for the one hull I need

There was a company in Europe offering the Simt hull in 1:50 scale

John

Fred Ellis · « **Reply #6 on:** February 28, 2021, 09:53:45 am »

Hi

Myself I stay a way from Milliput, I have used the Delux filler, but I putt some offcuts of styrene into some plastic weld and when it has melted you have your glue/ filler,

Fred

Capt Podge · « **Reply #7 on:** February 28, 2021, 10:44:20 am »

Whichever way you go with the hull, your work on the superstructure so far is looking good

.

Ray.

Mat_B · « **Reply #8 on:** February 28, 2021, 11:27:25 am »

Quote from: Fred Ellis on February 28, 2021, 09:53:45 am

Hi

Myself I stay a way from Milliput, I have used the Delux filler, but I putt some offcuts of styrene into some plastic weld and when it has melted you have your glue/ filler,

Fred

Interesting, will try this. Is there a ratio you would recommend?

Im kind of set on building my own hull so its all built by myself.

Thanks Ray

JimG · « **Reply #9 on:** February 28, 2021, 01:07:41 pm »

Quote from: Fred Ellis on February 28, 2021, 09:53:45 am

Hi

Myself I stay a way from Milliput, I have used the Delux filler, but I putt some offcuts of styrene into some plastic weld and when it has melted you have your glue/ filler,

Fred

While this works when I have tried it in the past it took several days for the solvent to completely evaporate and the filler to go fully hard. I use Humbrol Model Filler successfully with styrene.
Jim

Fred Ellis · « **Reply #10 on:** February 28, 2021, 03:29:46 pm »

Hi
I don't think there is any set in stone, I just mixed mine to how I think it should be.

Fred

Mat_B · « **Reply #11 on:** March 02, 2021, 08:59:33 pm »

Small amount of progress making cabin roof, funnels and vents

Made the grills/vents by scribing lines into the sheets then framing with little strips, quite pleased although could maybe have been a bit more flush when I looked at photos of the real ship. Guess we’ll call it modellers license, sure there will be plenty more of that to come.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #12 on:** March 02, 2021, 09:17:36 pm »

Well, those scribed lines on the vents look good to me Mat - just be careful not to apply too much paint when you get to that stage

Ray.

Mat_B · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2021, 08:18:53 pm »

Some more progress. Made some of the companion ways, and watertight doors.
Need to complete the interior before glueing on the roof. Does anybody have any recommendations for home to do this and not then end up painting the windows when painting the outside? Do you mask off each window individually or paint the outside and then mask a strip over all windows then make good the joing above before removing tape?

Hande · « **Reply #14 on:** March 10, 2021, 04:17:08 pm »

I tried two methods with the windows.
First of all, the plexi glass I used for windows came with a tight protective film both sides.
Secondly, I paint major parts off-build and assemble completed parts (and clean the seam areas afterwards).

1. installed a window, painted (or varnished in my case) over, removed the protective film. To make sure I also used liquid mask around the edge of the window.

2. paint and varnish everything without windows and then cut and install the windows by using canopy glue. CG can be applied on painted surfaces and spills are easy to rub off.

I have decided to go with method 2.
I liked Andy’s choice of installing windows inside the frame so much that I’m now following his suite - albeit in my clumsy fashion

He uses 2mm plexi, I use 1mm, advantage being that for cutting, I can use a pair of scissors.

I hope I’m being helpful!

Mat_B · « **Reply #15 on:** March 10, 2021, 10:09:46 pm »

Quote from: Hande on March 10, 2021, 04:17:08 pm

I tried two methods with the windows.
First of all, the plexi glass I used for windows came with a tight protective film both sides.
Secondly, I paint major parts off-build and assemble completed parts (and clean the seam areas afterwards).

1. installed a window, painted (or varnished in my case) over, removed the protective film. To make sure I also used liquid mask around the edge of the window.

2. paint and varnish everything without windows and then cut and install the windows by using canopy glue. CG can be applied on painted surfaces and spills are easy to rub off.

I have decided to go with method 2.
I liked Andy’s choice of installing windows inside the frame so much that I’m now following his suite - albeit in my clumsy fashion He uses 2mm plexi, I use 1mm, advantage being that for cutting, I can use a pair of scissors.

I hope I’m being helpful!

I had seen the window in the frame idea and thought ot looks very neat!
Not sure if I am able to work quite so accurate!
Think mask and paint and paint major parts before assembly

Taranis · « **Reply #16 on:** March 10, 2021, 10:18:17 pm »

If it helps I would spray or hand paint the inside of the wheelhouse first.
Mask over the inside of the windows to paint the outside.
At that scale I would just apply clear acetate across the inside of the window openings when painting is finished.
Just my view
Looking good

I'm not that far with my Billing 1:75 but that is what will happen when I resume

Mat_B · « **Reply #17 on:** March 11, 2021, 09:15:06 am »

Quote from: Taranis on March 10, 2021, 10:18:17 pm

If it helps I would spray or hand paint the inside of the wheelhouse first.
Mask over the inside of the windows to paint the outside.
At that scale I would just apply clear acetate across the inside of the window openings when painting is finished.
Just my view
Looking good

I'm not that far with my Billing 1:75 but that is what will happen when I resume

Think this will be my approach, even with the larger scale I think the acetate over the inside of the windows in strips will still give the desired effect. Images of the real boat online show a blue tint to the wheelhouse glass so may try some blue tinited acetate to see how that looks with clear as a backup

Hande · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2021, 08:24:15 am »

I found a Vallejo ”transparent” blue acrylic paint but when I tried it, it left a matt mist on the glass. I was discouraged to continue with that one and got shading film that is used for car windows. It must be a nightmare to try to apply it on car windows by yourself without a sterile cleanroom. But for modeling, it is really pactical. Even with all the dust particles and bubbles there remains plenty of clean areas to cut the windows from. I’m not at all certain it applies to acetate sheets, though. so if you can find shaded acetate, it’s probably the way to go.
Smoke (grey) shade is likely to look better than blue. Blue quickly makes the result look like a toy. Maybe there is blue-tinted acetate that remains within the boundaries of good taste?

Mat_B · « **Reply #19 on:** March 12, 2021, 10:00:40 pm »

I understand the concern over the blue, you can buy blue acetate for a few pennys so I will see how it looks and leave it out if its not the deaieed effect!

Progress made over the last few days. Been soldering up railings for the first time, very fiddly but improving as I go. Quick blast of primer to see what work needs to be done on the funnels/mast

Edit: need to remember to do photos landscape

Hande · « **Reply #20 on:** March 13, 2021, 09:42:33 am »

Railings look business to me - you must have talent for it, if it’s your first go

I am not even dreaming of my upcoming challenge with the railings. I already made a mess with the bulwark by choosing the wrong method. So afraid of the railings I am

btw. Your pics are most of the time stretched horizontally. I tested by downloading one and in my photo application it came out fine. The Admin may understand the situation better than I. No other members’ pics demonstrate the same effect. Like the one posted in your thread by Andy shows in correct proportions.

Mat_B · « **Reply #21 on:** March 18, 2021, 10:10:36 pm »

Bit more work on the superstructure
The work lights to the rear of the funnels are functional (yet to be wired)

Hande · « **Reply #22 on:** March 19, 2021, 07:20:18 am »

It looks very fine!
What is your favourite glue for plasticard?
Hande

Mat_B · « **Reply #23 on:** March 19, 2021, 08:41:37 am »

I have been using stuff I have - plastic weld for plastic pipes (works well but hard to apply easily as its a gel) and revell contacta for the finer details
Both seem to be working well

Mat_B · « **Reply #24 on:** March 24, 2021, 10:15:28 am »

Mast/funnel now pretty much completed, need to add the logo and a few small fittings.

Started making window frame/surrounds

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Author Topic: 1/50 Smit Rotterdam (Read 3424 times)