The boat came with a 2.1m long pine mast, beautifully shaped (tapered from deck to top and from deck to keel). The only fitting which came with the mast was the brass foot (and fortunately the brass rail inside the hull where the foot fitted into). For the rest it was a bare pole.
A small warning (and by now lesson learnt for me): I may have gone a wee bit overboard in constructing items for the boat. Balancing looks with practical good sailing abilities sometimes ended up in very complex constructions. I would not recommend to follow all my constructions.
After consulting a number of pictures of real size yachts (internet) I decided on a 7/8 fractional rigging with double set of spreaders and a jumper near the top with a pair of diamond jumper stays, all of steel wire. I made a spread-sheet with formulas to check the resulting sail area still fitted the 10R rules.
I started by making a new mast-top out of aluminum tube and t-profile. Happy with the shape, maybe I will replace it with a brass variety in a later stage as the rest of the mast fittings are brass.
As I have no lath and my soldering techniques are not great, I made all spreaders from beech wood, cut open for weight reduction and wrapped in epoxy and glass for strength (see pictures). I glued a short section of brass tube inside the spreaders to which I attached brackets for the shrouds, stays and halyards. Every spreader is fixed to the mast by a single bolt and can be removed for maintenance.
After some trial and errors with rope, I subsequently made the standing rigging of steel wire rope. With the 7/8 rigging and a proper back-stay tensioner I am able to bend the mast and open the main sail in stronger winds.
By now the mast had become an impressive (I think) Christmas tree of shrouds, stays and spreaders. Even with all the stays it remains a fragile part of the boat. To transport the mast I made a wooden box which contains the mast in its finished, fully rigged state.
The boat came with an assortment of booms. As far as I can determine it comprised 2 main booms and 3 jib booms. The booms had most of the rope/chain/bungees attached, but the ropes were cut, so it was not immediately obvious to me how this should work. With help of internet I now understand the rigging, which was intended for Braine steering. I have stored this for future exploration.
Both the main booms had their goose-necks still attached (but no corresponding attachment for the mast). This was relatively easily made from a piece of brass. At the same time I made s brass sleave over the bottom of the mast where she goes through the deck. It gave me a bit more confidence to generate the required strength for all the fittings such as stays, goose neck, boomvang etc. and better protection at deck level
The connection between the jib boom and the deck was less clear. I again reverted to the internet and could determine how the original set-up would have been. A simple hook into a rail on deck provided a (limited) pivoting point for the jib boom. This may be ok for close hauled tacking, but I could not see this work when sailing downwind; the set-up does not allow the boom to swivel to 90 degrees to either board.
On more modern model yachts, I see two distinct different ways of using a jib-boom. The most common way seems to be where both the tack and the clew are attached to the boom. The boom often swivels around a point a bit back from the tack. Advantage is a balanced sail under heel. Small disadvantage I see (but maybe I am wrong) is a constant tension on the foot of the jib on all headings.
Some boats are equipped with a shorter jib boom with its own swivel point, attached to the deck a bit back from the tack. This seems also the set-up on real size boats. In this way the foot of the jib is tightened when the sail is close hauled and loosened when sailing more down wind. I wanted to have both options for my boat.
I made my own design a deck rail for the jib from a square brass tube. I cut a long opening at the top and drilled holes in both sides for weight reduction. At the aft end I made a bit bigger opening so I could slot in a number of different adapters to accommodate all the different ways of rigging the jib. For the short (unbalanced) jib boom I made a new, lighter boom compared to the original. I used one of the booms which came with the boat for the balanced variety, albeit with a new swivel arrangement.
With the new jib-boom, the old main boom looked a bit out of place. Just for the fun I made a new lighter main boom too. It all now looks the par, even with a mix of old and new.