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[Stan]

This morning my order for metal push rod connectors arrived from S L E C hobbies. I can never understand why we do not use these simple connectors more often. No more trying to bend bits of wire to the correct length these connectors take all the hassle out of that. Two per pack with a cost of£1.50 pictures below showing them fitted in my Elco  conversion.


Stan.

[RST]

Hi, I have lots of these though I must admit mainly the ones with a loc-nut below rather than a spring clip washer (can't remember the proper name now!).  I don't use them much, particularly for smaller models becuse they end up quite high over the servo horn and they introduce another screw to go slack (admittedley it only ever happened once or twice) -I mainly build small though and nothing wrong with neat "z"-bends, but I must admit I'm more of a fan and use far more clevis whether metal or plastic because you don't need an allen key or driver to unscrew.  No right or wrong, each to their own and aplication!

[roycv]

Hi if you want to join two rods together and also adjust length I use the brass part of an electrical choc box connector. 

This will take two push rod wires side by side and then you clamp them together with the two screws.
Roy

[Stan]

I totally agree if you wish to use these methods of connecting your controls. I have used these connectors from SLEC for many years now fit and forget and they look more professional. But if your preference is to keep bending bits of wire and cutting down terminal blocks that is your choice so be it.


Stan.

[Peter Fitness]

I use these all the time, a hangover from my RC flying days


Peter.

[Plastic - RIP]

I've always been concerned about those screws coming loose - as an electrician, I've seen so many dodgy connections caused by the screws gradually loosening over time.       There's no actual fixing but a wonky-ended screw pressing on a hard circular section bar in a high-vibration environment - a terrible design - not often seen in Formula 1.             For pushrods, I only ever use the Z- bends on the pushrod end so there's no mechanical fixings to fail.

[Peter Fitness]

That’s a fair comment, but in years of RC flying using IC motors I never had one come loose. I have also never had one come loose on a boat, but the vibration of an electric motor is nowhere near as severe as that of an IC motor.
In the end it’s a matter of choice, and maintenance.


Peter.

[Stan]

I have no wish to force how I work on others but it seems to me anything that makes life easier is shot down by others. I terms of the screw coming loose I have never had one fail. These items are used by the fly boys and a model plane is far more at risk if the screw fails. If you wish to carry on bending bits of wire or using terminal blocks were the screws never come loose I think not so be it.


With regards to terminal blocks see the link to mayhem site I await your comments on these no screws to come loose now used by electricians instead of the terminal block.


https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,66467.0.html

[Plastic - RIP]

I have no wish to force on how I work on others but it seems to me anything that makes life easier is shot down by others. I terms of the screw coming loose I have never had one fail. These items are used by the fly boys and a model plane is far more at risk if the screw fails. If you wish to carry on bending bits of wire or using terminal blocks were the screws never come loose I think not so be it.

Hi Stan - not shooting you down - just voicing engineering concerns when using things in failure-critical situations.    I've very much into reducing failure modes and simplifying designs.      The less there is, the less to go wrong.     Oh, and I'd never use terminal blocks either - they're designed for their purpose - just 'cos you can use something, doesn't mean you should.   

[Plastic - RIP]

With regards to terminal blocks see the link to mayhem site I await your comments on these no screws to come loose now used by electricians instead of the terminal block.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,66467.0.html

Aren't those blocks designed specifically for a certain size of solid copper conductor?    Jamming in multicore of the wrong size won't make a proper connection - and they're not designed for a vibrating environment where the individual small conductors can gradually slip out one at a time until the connection fails.        Not something I'd ever put on a motorised boat - but hey ho - everyone has their ways of doing things.

[T888]

Stan, it’s good to see how other do things and as I’ve told young engineers I’ve trained, there more than one way to skin a cat.


It’s good to share 

[Colin Bishop]

I'm afraid I have to agree with Stan, I've been using terminal blocks for 40 years or more without problems although I like the new lever operated ones and have been using those for recent models. They are are useful for rudder linkages as it is easy to make adjustments by sliding two rods alongside each other and that actually seems to improve the clamping security.

Just because something is designed for one purpose doesnt mean you can't use it for another, it's called ingenuity! Modellers tend to be good at that!

Colin

[John W E]

Hi there,


If you are worried about screws shaking loose - the simple answer is put a locknut with a shake-proof washer on - and that can solve the problem.   I've done this many times, especially when I use screws on the rudder posts - when you build a model it can be difficult sometimes to reach if the screw works loose.    I have often used parts of choc blocks inners (the brass inserts) as navigation light covers.   I have used pins from a 3 pin plug (the square ones) as connectors for rudder arms.  Used a variety of other electrical bits and pieces which are not designed to be used in modelling    .      The present model I am building at the moment I am using the connectors the aircraft guys use - especially the ones that swivel connections - so that mis-alignments can be accounted for.

[Stan]

Thank you for the positive comments. My sole intention was to show others that items used by other sections of hobbies can be used with no problems in model boats. The blocks are used in the electrical trade but if you are concerned about vibration please still use terminal blocks


Stan




Stan.

[Bunkerbarge]

Stan, put a spot of Loctite Thread Lock on each screw.  They will never loosen and before all the plastic experts jump on that one the screws remain easy to remove as long as you use Thread Lock and not Bearing Lock, two entirely different products!