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Author Topic: Fairleads.  (Read 2461 times)

785boats

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Fairleads.
« on: May 21, 2021, 11:38:50 pm »

Can anyone give me a quick easy way to scratch make large fairleads?
These ones are 35mm long 10mm wide and 10mm high.
They are for the Novgorod.
See the pic below. I don't have access to 3D printing.
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
Paul.
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david48

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2021, 02:14:29 pm »

Have you thought about a silicone mould  and pored resin ,not done the process myself but seen plenty adds for the material to do such a thing
David
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tonyH

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2021, 02:24:29 pm »

I use this and it's rather easy. Plenty of fun and the results can be surprisingly good. Certainly worth trying and the only extra thing you need is one of those mini electric scales off Am***n or elsewhere.https://www.mbfg.co.uk/polycraft-moulding-casting-resin-kit-mini.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqMyStrDd8AIVgtayCh2bEgwfEAQYAiABEgKF1PD_BwE
TonyPS I've never bothered with the mould release spray because the silicone is inherently releaseable T
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nemesis

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2021, 04:44:47 pm »

considering you have to make a master first before you can continue with mould making and then casting by then you can have made what you need. nemesis.
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nemesis

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2021, 04:51:28 pm »

It is advisable to use the silicone release as it stops the cross linking between the mould and the moulding. You may find after a few pulls that it starts to stick with little bits of mould tearing off. That is what the release helps to stop. nemesis
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tonyH

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2021, 05:12:08 pm »

It looks like there are only half a dozen needed so there shouldn't be a problem.
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785boats

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2021, 08:44:44 pm »

Thanks guys. I had thought of that, but I couldn't see how to get the master or the parts out of the mould, when the resin is filling the hole through the fairlead.
Plus, as Nemisis stated, I have to make a master in the first place.
That's the part I need ideas on how to make.
Plus, the resin kits end up pretty expensive down here in Australia with postage, GST and the exchange rate.
Once I've made one, there's only 4 more to make.
Just need ideas on the best type of material to use, I guess, that won't break off.
Thinking of it as I type this, maybe a piece of a nylon bread board would work.
We've got three of them. I wonder if 'SHE" would notice if one was half an inch shorter? %)


Cheers.
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Geoff

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2021, 04:35:38 pm »

In the distant past I used to make a half mold in epoxy putty from a master after greasing the original. Make the other half and then cut channels and poor lead into the mold. I once made 74 small cannon for a ship of the line. It worked quite well and was cheap.


Cheers


Geoff
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T888

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2021, 04:58:20 pm »

This is a master I made of a fairleads and moulded it in one peace.
When using a good quality RTV silicon moulding rubber, you don’t need to use silicon release agent as the RTV has silicon in it so the masters don’t stick to them.




I can post pictures how I made the master if it helps?
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Regards David

785boats

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2021, 06:45:00 am »

Thanks guys.
But what material did you make the master plug from?
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T888

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2021, 07:07:17 am »

My master fitting is made from plaster card, the mould is from CFS - RTV Shore 25
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Regards David

tonyH

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2021, 10:11:16 am »

What I have done in the past is make a half fairlead, i.e. sliced along the centreline, paint it with a couple of coats of gloss, stick it to the end of a stick, spray it with a bit of silicone lubricant and press it into some plasticine. You'll need to try a few times to get the right "trajectory" for the stick but when (not if) you get it right, you can make as big a batch as the lump of plasticine will take. I normally give the surface of rolled out plasticine a decent spray before plunging the sick in and also after you've formed the half mould(s). Once resin has set fully, remove from moulds, wash to remove silicone spray, sand off the faces and stick pairs together. Tidy up.
I use the same method for all sorts of multiple fittings such as watertight doors, anchor flukes, dummy hinges etc. because it's simple, you're not waiting for moulds to cure and the moulds you do muck up a "punch" of the stick, you just make another one. Also it will use up those odd bits of Fastglas polyester resin lying araound!
Works for me :-))
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2021, 06:43:20 pm »

I have used plasticine with some success, as Tony has said a little practice (and lego bricks as a mould box...don't let the children / grandchildren or lego land know)
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tonyH

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2021, 07:30:31 pm »

Don't worry about the kids Paul. If you use it enough it always ends up brown, no matter how many colours were in the pack so they won't want it!
 :-))
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2021, 08:12:42 pm »

 {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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785boats

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #15 on: June 01, 2021, 05:15:46 pm »

Thanks guys.
TonyH.
That sounds like a plan.I should be able to work my way through that procedure.
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tonyH

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #16 on: June 01, 2021, 06:28:26 pm »

Hi Paul,
The only bit you need to practice maybe getting the stick in at roughly 90degrees to the plasticene, but as I wrote, if you muck it up you just punch it in again!
Good Luck and show us the outcome!
 :-))
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tonyH

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Re: Fairleads.
« Reply #17 on: June 01, 2021, 09:07:21 pm »

One thing I forgot is that if I'm using Fastglas, I normally add a bit of talc or chalk to the mix.
Tony
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