Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips > Glue etc.

Cyno troubles

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I have no luck with cyano glueing. It just doesn't go off for me in the recommended time. I've watched videos and its easy.
Some people, it seems, build entire boats out of it!

The current challenge is to bond a (1/8x1/8) hardwood chine (which i've pre-steamed to very near the shape) to an Eze-Kote'd hull.
i've made a practice piece so i don't ruin the real items.
The pieces that are slightly under tension will not go off unless clamped and left - the whole reason for me using cyano is to avoid clamping.
I've tried breathing on it. Having one piece damp. Fresh cyano. Shouting and swearing doesn't seem to help either.

I haven't tried a kicker as apparently the bond is not as strong.

Does anyone have any pearls of wisdom to impart about what works for them.

(A very frustrated) Mark

Capt Podge:
Have you tried roughening the eze-cote surface yet?
That would give the glue something to grab onto.


Colin Bishop:
In addition to Ray's suggestion there are two other things you can do. If the chine strip is close to the intended shape then you may be able to hold it in position temporarily wth strips of Tamiya masking tape across it at intervals, possibly doing one section at a time. The other option is to temporarilly pin it to the hull using pre drilled holes through the wood to avoid splitting. Remove the pins afterwards by twisting them free rather than pulling.

When the rail is stuck down. run some thin cyano along the joint to the hull on both sides.


Thanks for the replies.

I sanded the hull (and practice piece) with 400 grit (as per the kit instructions) but perhaps it should be rougher on the chine line. I'll give that a go.
I've not had much luck with tape holding things down so the pin idea maybe the one to try - i'll probably give them both a go tho, no harm in trying.


What make of cyano and how thick is it please?  I've had no problems sticking to epoxy coatings.


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