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Author Topic: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)  (Read 9225 times)

SteamboatPhil

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2021, 09:28:22 am »

I think its the canopy that makes it a "Sea Rover" otherwise it looks like a grown up Sea Nymph  O0 O0
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2021, 10:10:23 am »

True, only real difference is double windows. After cutting out my hull skins, I have a decent bit of lightply left,  I should/might? have enough to manage the canopy.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #27 on: May 14, 2021, 12:52:34 am »

Good progress today, both boats reached the stage where we could fit the first of the bottom skins on both boats, quite a tricky shape at the front, it curves and twists to fit, and has to stay tight to the keel, we managed this with the aid of a 3d printed clamp I made ages ago. It took a few test fits and some fettling but we managed to get them on satisfactorily. I dont know if the 1/8 lightply is easier or harder to work with than the 1/16 birch ply that was supposed to be used, it is twice as thick, but slightly less tough. Its not like my other scraps of lightply, its definately closer to birch ply in texture/hardness. It has a lot nicer surface anyway, so worth the extra sanding effort. The remaining bottom skin will get trimmed till we get a nice fit then glued on. I tried removing the excess sheeting at chine edge.... using a jigsaw, never went as well as I hoped, with a bit bursting very close to a bit I wanted to keep and the jigsaw jumping out of the slot and digging 2 small slots in my new hull sheeting!
They will be easily repaired but annoying. My boat is the one pointing to the right. The damage can be seen in last picture.
There is about 1cm of extra sheeting around the chine edge, as I wanted to allow enough for a few attempts at the keel joint if I didnt get the shape right first time. I thought sanding would take ages to remove the excess, hence the impatient jigsaw attack. I also found a nice track on my sheeting where the jigsaw footplate was pressing as I cut the chine excess off. I will try dampening the surface and ironing it, this works on balsa dents pretty well, I hope to lose the worst of the damage on the lightply. If not, it will be a thin smear of filler.
 Well happy that we have reached the skinning stage, its a major milestone in the build.
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Stuw

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #28 on: May 14, 2021, 06:01:26 pm »

Looking good the two of them!  :-)) 


Building without any mess-ups is tricky. It makes me feel better about some of my work to read your honest appraisal!
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #29 on: May 14, 2021, 08:33:11 pm »

I agree looking really good, nice work (go for the canopy.....sorry I still think it makes it....) and now I think I should build one...my original Rover went ....cant remember where, years ago and was fitted with a nice smelly ED bee diesel and no radio.......fond memories  :-))
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #30 on: May 15, 2021, 02:35:59 pm »

Thanks, I am really pleased with my progress yesterday, I got the bottom sheeting finished, I sanded off the excess this time in preparation for side skins. I used a belt sander to take the majority of it off, then an orbital sander to get it real close followed by a hand sand to get it perfect, well, close enough for me. Next photos will hopefully have the side skins on. They should be much easier than the bottom skins, but harder to clamp in place.
 Cutting the holes in B1 has turned out to be essential for glueing access at this stage.
 Next job is to trim the side skins to fit nicely with the top edge of the bottom skins at the bow. I will do one and glue it on then trim last one to suit.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #31 on: May 16, 2021, 01:40:35 pm »

I glued my first side skin on, it went on nicely, apart from not being big enough! After making card templates, I never thought this would happen. Ah well, it was only about 3mm short of the top edge at the bow, and tapering to nothing about 4 or 5 inches back, I have added a small piece of ply to replace the missing bit, on both sides..... Yes the other side was missing a bit too! This is the result of trying to get as much as possible from my 3 sheets of lightply.
 Ah well, I was planning on painting the hull anyway as I dont have any varnish left.
 Anyway, before I glued the 2nd side skin on, I took the opportunity to dry fit my propshaft, coupling, motor and mount so I could line them up from above and from the side before the skin went on. I superglued my mount in place and continued with fitting the second side. Resorting to fibreglass packing tape to hold the sheet to the extreme curve at the bow. Clamps and some masking tape too. I am now happy to report that my boat is skinned. 😁
 There is still a lot of sanding to be done, and its tough. I am now preparing for deck fitting, sanding the upper edges of the chine rail and side skin. This is 3/8ths wide ply now, so it is heavy going.
 There was also the issue of the jigsaw damage to my bottom hull skin, the 2 dents from the blade had a small piece of balsa forced as deep as possible and trimmed off flush with a scalpel then a spot of superglue and sanded while still setting to avoid having a hard lump to sand later.
 The long dents left by the jigsaw soleplate were soaked with water then ironed over with a covering iron, amazing fix, the dents have vanished, it took two attempts on the deepest bits but very good fix. I managed to just scuff the surface with my 4 inch belt sander in a couple of places while sanding the excess sheeting off, so I have replaced my dents with some scuffs now!. Using full sized tools on models requires extra care. But it does get the job done quicker.  Photo shows jigsaw dents repaired and my sander scuffs.
 One more thing... I managed to snap the cockpit window frame off. I have been careful, but turning the hull about while glueing the skins and sanding makes the windows vulnerable to damage.
 If I was to make another Sea Rover, I would leave cutting out the cockpit windows until after the hull was finished, this would give them more strength until the windscreen construction was completed.
 A few mistakes on this build, none of them serious, I do make mistakes sometimes, they are part of the learning process.
 I checked my friend's side skins to see if they were missing a bit in the same place, nope, his is fine, close, but it will just make it. As he has only one bottom skin on so far, I can only check one side skin, I will check the other once the 2nd bottom skin is on.
 If I had more lightply, I would have cut new side skins that were bigger.
 Next time I make card templates for skinning, I will be especially careful to give them a bit extra.
 Very happy with how both boats are turning out, it is interesting to see how a raw beginner to boat building manages with a decent sized wood  build. He is doing pretty well, with some pointers from me and learning from my mistakes.........
 He wont be trying a jigsaw for removing excess sheeting, and he is being extra careful with his windows.
 
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phillnjack3

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #32 on: May 16, 2021, 07:38:37 pm »

This is a very nice model your making, and doing a  good job on it too. :-))
its a lot hard I think to make the smaller models look nice, with the big stuff you can get away with a few dodgy bits here and there, but at
this size it would show up big time , so this shows your doing a good job..
.   
The boats both look very nice in both open cockpit and hard top. Hard top definitely for the posh knobs ha ha
Both are exactly what could be seen on the rivers back in the 1950's and 60's and a good few carried on into the 1970's.
Mostly fitted with the old Morris 1,000 engines  ( called vedette in boats and have to be B R Green) or the small ford 105 e engines (light blue painted)... these boats take me back to going up the  Thames on holiday in my dads boats back in the 70's seeing loads of this type of boat..

Main thing that sets them back to that time is no window frames, just like the real thing....

proper classic little models and will always look good on any pond.

 back in the day green was the colour for anti fouling and a yellow boot top with a thin white stripe in between was on the posh ones.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #33 on: May 18, 2021, 10:25:15 am »

I wondered if you had any photos of similar boats from that time?
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phillnjack3

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #34 on: May 18, 2021, 12:34:28 pm »

there are still loads of boats like this on the upper thames past oxfordand on the norfolk broads and some canals.
Most of what i have seen over the last 10 years have been fully resored or in excellant condition.
long gone was a company called bushnells at maidenhead that had loads of this type of boat on their hire fleet..


next time on the river ill keep an eye out and grab some pics if i see one.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #35 on: May 19, 2021, 11:18:38 am »

Yesterday was a nice day for outside boat building, mostly sanding though, there seems to be more sanding involved than I remember from previous builds. We both got our boats ready for the next stage, mine was prepared for fitting the deck, sanding the inwales and tops of the side sheeting and transom, my friend was getting his ready to fit his 2nd bottom skin, then his first side skin. These went on without drama, apart from trying to hold the sheets to the bow, very awkward but we got them on and he continued sanding in preparation for his final side skin.
 I glued my deck on with pva to give me some working time to get the deck taped in place. Fibreglass packing tape was used to hold the deck to the bow as this was unsticking itself due to the deck curve. It is ideal for this purpose as it doesn't stretch.
 My friend got his side skin on and we spent the afternoon sanding. Mine still needs some more sanding of the deck edge, I couldnt sand any more, my hand was cramping up.
 I did manage to think of an appropriate name for my boat as I was removing excess deck sheeting........it will be called Sandy. 😁
 Very happy with how far we got on both boats, they are both coming on well, my friend's one is only some sanding and deck fitting behind mine.
 I hope to get my deck sanding finished at some point today if I get a chance.
 They are nice little boats, I say little, but they are sizeable compared to my recent builds. Plenty of room inside and lots of scope for detailing if we want.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #36 on: May 28, 2021, 03:16:53 pm »

The deck edge has now been sanded flush with the sides. The hatch frame was made up to accept the roof pieces, these were soaked on the top surface and set on a board with a spacer in the middle to induce the correct curve into the roof sheets and taped down with fibreglass tape until dry. The curve was a bit more than required as I knew they would spring back a bit once removed from the board. It all went well, the curved roof sheets went onto the frame nicely, but pulled it up at the front about 1/16 of an inch. I added small filler pieces to the top section of the front windows and also to the front top edges of the cabin sides and faired these in.
 The forward sections of the roof were added to the tops of the front windows. The result is a decent hatch that fits well. I may have to sand it some more to allow for paint. I used card spacers to hold the hatch frames the correct distance from the cabin sides to allow for the window material thickness.
 Very pleased with the cabin roof/hatch area. Next job was to add a centre brace to the cockpit windscreen.
 The forward pieces of the canopy were now glued to the top of the windscreen. These stiffened up the windscreen area a lot.
 The canopy frame was formed from a spine made from 2 layers of 1/8 light ply, 2 sides from 1/8 x 3/8 spruce and 3 small bulkheads. 2 the same angle as canopy parts on windscreen and a less angled one for the rear as it flattens towards the rear. No dramas while building this, took my time and got a good frame for the 1/8 light ply canopy skins.
 These were sanded to meet nice in the middle and curved slightly at the rear to accomodate being pulled down into place. One canopy/roof skin was glued in place over the two front bulkheads, and then the other skin was fettled for a good fit then glued in place. Once the glue had set, I glued both skins to the last bulkhead and centre spine, holding the sheets till set.
 Turned out well and stays in place even without supports. They will be the next job.
 I also made a start on the floor of the rear well.
 
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madwelshman

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #37 on: May 28, 2021, 08:25:49 pm »

Coming along really well Andy, very nice lines and really starting to look like a Sea Rover now.


Looking far more boat like than my Sea Rover.


Mine is back in the attic, awaiting it's turn as my Sea Commander and Fairey are far closer to being ready for rc and drivetrain to be installed.


Will
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #38 on: May 28, 2021, 11:52:22 pm »

Thanks, I have been trying to push on with it, I am liking the shape of it more every time I do a bit. I have gone a bit freelance with the canopy and the windscreen area. It really needed the centre brace and forward roof sections for strength. I was worried the lightply wouldnt bend easily to the rear shape on the canopy without cracking the frame but it pushed into place fine. The forward cabin hatch/roof halves had been soaked on one surface and dried overnight held in a curve. This worked well.
Very pleased with how it is going.
 My friend's one has had its deck fitted and sanded to shape, he isnt that far behind. We have made a start on his cabin hatch. He has snapped his cockpit side windows too, they are very vulnerable while you build and sand the hull.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #39 on: May 29, 2021, 12:04:45 am »

I was looking at your one, and thinking how I would do it. I would cut everything off level with the deck, and build a new one piece hatch/superstructure as my edita motor yacht has. I think if I ever did another sea rover, I would do it that way. I managed my front hatch ok, the rear hatch (rear well) is going to be a bit more involved.
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madwelshman

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #40 on: May 29, 2021, 04:08:05 pm »

I was looking at your one, and thinking how I would do it. I would cut everything off level with the deck, and build a new one piece hatch/superstructure as my edita motor yacht has. I think if I ever did another sea rover, I would do it that way. I managed my front hatch ok, the rear hatch (rear well) is going to be a bit more involved.


That's exactly what I have done on the damaged side, chopped it down to deck level and will feather the new one in to suit. I will more than likely do the same to the other side then, so they are both made from new timber and will both look the same (hopefully!).


My Sea Rover is an as and when project. I have others that need less involved work and that for me, not being the best with wood, or very experienced at model building, suits me best for now. I will work towards the rougher ones, such as this and my 2nd Sea commander.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #41 on: May 30, 2021, 12:21:28 am »

A bit of thought regarding rudder servo mounting and access for its adjustment or replacement resulted in my slip in servo mount, with only one screw to remove the servo. It will glue to the transom and bottom hull skin. It fits in lovely, the servo would probably stay in place without the cross piece on it. I am continuing to use up the offcuts from my original 3 sheets of lightply. It is lovely stuff, I havent done any weight tests but I think it is closer to birch ply weight than the liteply I bought years ago.
 I have small lengths of various hardwoods that I have used in places on the boat, these could have been made from the ply too but it saved cutting and sanding bits to shape. I have had a few ideas about hiding the rudder shaft and steering arm as this is right on the bit I want to use for the rear wall of the well.
 I thought about a dummy engine cover with the servo in there too, but decided to make up my servo mount to fit on the transom, thus avoiding needing to house it in an engine cover.
 The rudder arm boss still protrudes into the well area, so I had to come up with something to cover it, only not as big as the engine cover was going to be.
 I decided on a set of stairs, these will cover the rudder post and arm nicely.
 Still tons to do in the well area, not least the driver/skipper's area. Still plenty of thinking and deciding to do......
 
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #42 on: June 05, 2021, 10:20:49 am »

It took me a while to work out what I was going to do with the rear well area, it is a big area that needs some detailing as it will be seen. Even with the canopy on, it still looks pretty empty in there.
 I decided that some seats, a drivers position and a set of steps were going to go in there. Not fully decided on what they will look like yet, kind of making it up as I go along now. I trimmed the deck piece to the shape and size I wanted, I also cut out side pieces for the well and a back wall. The steps were fitted in once I got the sides and back bit glued to the deck.
 As the battery will be under the floor, I needed to be able to lift the rear deck section out as easily as possible but still have it fitting closely.
 I think I have done not too bad, there are slight gaps at the sides but I hope that adding my seat structures will nip these up.
 I am using 1/16 scale for my measurements, astronaut size😁 and also the scale of my cheap wpl 4x4 and 6x6 trucks and trailer.
 Good for some photos, but I dont see them having the power to tow Sea Rover on a trailer.
 There is loads of room under the well deck to take the battery. Pic shows 7.4v 10ah. There is enough room in this area for a 7.4v 25ah pack if required.
 
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #43 on: June 09, 2021, 12:46:18 pm »

It may look as if the progress is slow, but I have actually got a good few things done and worked out how I am going to do other things.
  I made a stand, actually 2, one for my friend's boat as well. He can drill the holes and screw his one together himself. The propshaft is now epoxied in place, I want to leave it a day or so before I try sanding any excess off, it doesnt look too lumpy but I wont know till I sand it. The rudder servo mount is glued in place and the linkage has been made up. I also turned the motor 180 degrees to get the wires lower down and closer to the speed control. Quite a job in itself as the motor screws are not far from bulkhead 3, but I managed ok with help from a right angled screwdriver bit holder. I drilled 3 holes for the motor wires in bulkhead number 3.......ever wished you had done something before you glued something together? There wasnt enough space to get my drill in, so the holes are angled. I had to be careful not to drill into the hull skin.
 I picked, well sort of picked where the speed control will go, it could go elsewhere but I didnt want to extend the motor wires unless I had to.
 I have still to add bracing for the motor mount, I dont think it will need it but it is better to have it stronger.
 I also made my seat bases and fishing areas either side of the stairs. These have storage areas under the seats and fishing platforms.
Plenty of little jobs done, canopy supports have been made up with sockets for them to slide into on the inside of the well sides. I spend a fair bit of time thinking about different ways of doing things, usually to make them look or fit better. There is also input from my friends, some of which I use in my final choices.
 One of my own ideas is a removable 'mast' which I thought looked good. I have made it with a passage for wiring a light at the top. Only thing is that I dont really want to bore a hole in my windscreen roof for the wiring. And it has to be removable.
 I am thinking about using magnets, with nickel strips soldered to wiring and stuck to magnet. I would need to sink these flush with the roof and into the base of the mast. I can do it, but dont want to risk ruining the roof sections. I will think some more about this. I would like to have a light on the mast bit, but its not critical, I dont want to spoil what I have so far.
 I have also made up handrails for the cabin roof and also for the canopy as well. The original Sea Rover doesnt have any rails on the canopy but I think they might just look good. I wont glue them on till I am 100% sure they dont spoil its looks.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #44 on: June 09, 2021, 12:48:02 pm »

I forgot to add that the louvres are made from coffee stirrers.
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madwelshman

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #45 on: June 09, 2021, 03:19:05 pm »

Looking good there Andy. Loving the details you're adding to it.
I do think the spaceman looks a tad out of place though  :D


Coffee stirrers are something that I have also bought a pack of, I thought they'd be an easy option for a few things on various models.


I haven't even looked at mine, but have been doing some work towards finishing off the hull and superstructure of my Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat. My 1st attempt at making templates from a 2 view plan, so will have to see how well it comes out  :embarrassed:


Keep up the ggod work, really enjoying this thread (others too), because it's a model that I also have.
It also means I have something to aim towards, just like the various Fairey craft that Chris F is building.


Will
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49" Precedent Perkasa
46" Aerokits Sea Queen
42" Veron Fairey Huntsman 28 x2
34" Lesro Sportsman mk1
34" Precedent Fairey Huntsman 31 x3
34" Aerokits Sea Commander x2
29" Aerokits Sea Rover
20" Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat
16" Aerokits Sea Urchin

Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #46 on: June 09, 2021, 06:00:19 pm »

The spaceman was only picked because he is the right scale. I will be doing a better captain.
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madwelshman

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #47 on: June 09, 2021, 10:02:17 pm »

The spaceman was only picked because he is the right scale. I will be doing a better captain.


I was joking and guessed that he wasn't going to a permanent fixture.
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49" Precedent Perkasa
46" Aerokits Sea Queen
42" Veron Fairey Huntsman 28 x2
34" Lesro Sportsman mk1
34" Precedent Fairey Huntsman 31 x3
34" Aerokits Sea Commander x2
29" Aerokits Sea Rover
20" Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat
16" Aerokits Sea Urchin

Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #48 on: June 13, 2021, 10:02:52 pm »

I am at the stage where I have to make some choices, what colour scheme to do and what details to add. I want it to be fairly robust, so I dont want to add things that can be damaged too easily during transportation. I usually park my car as close as possible to the bit of river we use but it is still a good walk to get there. Most of my other boats fit in a rucksack, with various amounts of them sticking out the top. This one looks as if it will need either a bigger rucksack or just be carried by hand.
 Sea Rover has nice clean lines, which I dont want to detract from by adding loads of (delicate) details, the cabin roof handrails, which I have made carefully and am quite happy with, might not get fitted, they look quite breakable and I havent decided whether it looks better with them or without them.
 The mast as well, not sure if its in keeping with the rest of the boat, it changes its looks quite a lot....but I like it.
 I decided to make a fishing rod. Kebab stick held in a cordless drill and sandpapered till it was tapered. I must admit this took longer than I thought, its tough stuff. I could have used coarser sandpaper but I didnt want to score the surface, so I went for finer sanding for longer. The eyes were made from brass pins with a loop on the end. I straightened these out and formed eyes into proper shapes, at different diameters too, and bound them on with black thread and superglue.
 I used heatshrink tubing for the handles, turned out quite good, considering how quick it was to do. Quite happy with my fishing rod. Still to make a reel, get to that soon. I also added rodholders to the rear well.
 Seat cushions are strips of foam, I am still not happy with them but better than a bare space to look at, gives me an idea of how it looks. Its the same as having bits taped on with masking tape until I am happy with their position, or until I decide if I will use them at all.
 Quite happy with the way things are going. I fitted curtain rails in the cabin and had a go at making curtains from an old t shirt but I wasnt that happy with how they turned out. The curtain rails work well though.
Last three photos show my sprayrails cut from a bed slat and sanded till I was happy with them.
 Also shown is my pair of rubbing strips, laminated from 3 layers of coffee stirrers, They turned out quite well considering they vary in width, I have sanded them since glueing and am quite happy with how they turned out. I will be rounding the edges of the rubbing strips before they get glued on.
 You may ask why I laminated coffee stirrers? I didnt have any tough wood of the size I needed and buying the right size would have been a bit expensive, mostly for the postage. I have made up 2 bits at the size I want and they were free. I thought the stirrers could have been used for the spray rails too but I had already cut out 2 sets from the bed slat.
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Andy M

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Re: Andy M's Sea Rover Budget Build (two models)
« Reply #49 on: June 18, 2021, 05:30:53 pm »

I finished sanding the rounded edges on my rubbing strips. They have turned out nice, the coffee stirrers are pretty tough so the strips should be pretty durable.
 I tried a bend test to see if they would bend enough at the bow, not enough bendability so I soaked the first foot of the two strips in water for an hour and tried again, the strips followed the curve now so I taped them on with fibreglass tape and masking tape and left them to dry for 24 hrs.
 Having made up the strips, I was still not 100% sure I was going to put them on, they will protect the edges but I liked the clean look of the boat without them.
 After they had dried out, they had a decent curve on them so I decided I would have the rubbing strips after all and glued them on.
 I wasn't that sure about fitting the spray rails either, but I thought I would be better with them fitted from a performance point of view?
 I know this isnt a high speed hull but I would still like to make it as fast as it can be.
 I did the same with the spray rails, soaking the front foot of them in water for an hour or so and taping them in place as well as I could manage.
 Overnight dry in this weather was plenty, and I decided to glue them on, I also decided to make a curved rubbing strip for the top edge of the transom, again using stirrers, laminated on sellotape on top of the transom. It held its curve nicely once set so it was sanded to profile and glued on. Nice protective edge and breaks up the flatness of the transom a bit, another little feature added. All helps.
 I am enjoying this build, its looking nice and all the bits I usually worry about are done now, just some nice little detailing bits I can plod away at.
 I have been trying to spend more time on my Sea Rover but the weather means I have been out quite a bit, motorbikes taking up a bit more time just now, riding and maintenance. This also means my modelling budget is limited.😢
 I was going to paint Sea Rover all white as a base coat and see where to go from there, mainly due to me wanting to hide some of my patched bits of sheeting at the bow, turns out the rubbing strips cover most of the repairs. I am now thinking of varnishing it to see how it looks but....... no varnish, need to submit a request for funding to my wife, model related stuff is at the bottom of the list right now. I just got a new set of tyres for my bike, might be wise to wait a while. 😁
 I also made up a battery pack for Sea Rover, it is 7.4v 12600mah. Should last a wee while. 😁
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