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Author Topic: HMS Hood  (Read 59233 times)

MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #25 on: October 23, 2007, 12:16:29 am »

Got the message, thanks. Is that a GRP pre-fab hull or did he make that himself?
I'll have a go with downloading tomorrow night andd, who knopws....? Maybe I can get soemthing working...
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #26 on: October 23, 2007, 08:41:45 am »

It is a commercial f/glass hull from www.fleetscale.co.uk.  Good source of ideas perhaps. No luck with pics yet?  We are waiting with baited breath ::)
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #27 on: October 25, 2007, 04:20:49 pm »

Here are some piccies... hopefully in order.
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #28 on: October 25, 2007, 04:24:05 pm »

Part 2!

At 51, I'm a new generation of hoodie!!! :D
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DickyD

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #29 on: October 25, 2007, 04:32:38 pm »

Martin, do you think you might need a bigger patio.
That is going to be some sort of monster.  O0
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #30 on: October 25, 2007, 05:40:26 pm »

Good , a start.... it gets easier now really  O0   Why the black ones ? I wouldn`t advise painting the formers, except maybe with resin (in a light colour). Is the actual assembly going to be indoors? Winter coming on and all that.
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RickF

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #31 on: October 25, 2007, 07:17:11 pm »

Hi Martin,

Interested to know, with the very flimsy looking keel, how you intend to get some torsional stiffness into the hull. Are you going to add lots of "stringers" or use some sort of stressed skin?

Rick
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #32 on: October 26, 2007, 02:09:05 pm »

Point taken Dunc but I'm thinking the 'skin' will be attached to an outer shell around the formers. I will think on that though... Its an outdoor hull build... all the fun stuff goes on indoors and just assempled outside. Yes Rick, there will be a lot of stringers as well as a much reinforced keel -  6" x 2" . Whats there is just for placement at the moment and I'm DEFINATELY thinking stressed skin. I don't want to say anything about that at the moment... not till I know if it will work! If it does then I'll let everyone in on what I did.
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #33 on: October 29, 2007, 03:44:42 pm »

Hi Martin, have you considered using the "stich and glue" method used by builders of small full-size boats such as the Mirror Dinghy. Very light and strong, add a few stringers plus some cosmetic bulges with blue-foam , skin the whole with resin and glass. A full length deck will make your model a strong box-like structure.
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #34 on: October 29, 2007, 04:54:54 pm »

Two minds with but a single thought....!!!! I used a stitch and glue approach on the 4ft 6inch patrol boat I did 20 years ago. I was just looking at that as an option here. It may be the best way to go with a couple of slight wrinkles... I would keep the bulkheads as solid, keel to deck pieces, stressed and supported across the top, meaning I could have a sectioned deck inboard of a (sort of) splash deck. I am going to go with the idea of a box with cosmetic 'bolt ons'. Let's see what the weekend brings to the party...
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #35 on: October 31, 2007, 07:16:20 pm »

The developing Firefly...
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tonyH

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #36 on: October 31, 2007, 08:53:15 pm »

Evenin' Martin,

I've started on the early bits (the Walrus) for a 1:36 HMS Penelope (only 14ft) so I've a couple of questions on the flying bit please.

I'm aiming for 8oz for the plane and with the right gear I could get to about 6.5oz but I've not flown electric before so I'd appreciate advice. Fuselage is vac formed and wings are blue foam with carbon tube spar. Since you probably have about the same wing area etc. what motor/cell arrangement are you thinking of?
Catapult boost will be using a cam arrangement (like a compound archery bow) so the acceleration will be linear rather than having all the push at the start. This makes it a bit more complicated so is it actually needed?

I've decided to make the flying bit first to prove (or disprove) that the system works and since the wet bit is 'relatively' straight forward.

By the way, I've found that the best 1:36 figures are Tamiya Wermacht. A bit of judicious filler to make the bell bottoms and then paper collars and caps (thin band for the rim and oval shape for the crown.

Best of luck

Tony
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #37 on: October 31, 2007, 08:57:19 pm »

How about Depron instead of balsa .  Was it a floatplane on the Hood? Would love to see the Walrus and the mother ship, any pics Tony? Ideal would be a super-scale for static and a practical scale-ish one for flying....and a couple of spare fliers ! 
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #38 on: November 01, 2007, 12:03:57 am »

Hi Tony... Go with Arrow's advice... he's giving me absolutely heaps!!! The Fairey Firefly 111F was the float plane used on the HMS Hood 1931-2 when it was taken off due to the aft quarter deck being so wet, it was almost impossible to launch. I am looking at a different system for the catapult. If Ive got this right (and I will be experimenting before I put the Firefly ANYWHERE near it), a compressed spring releases 90% of its energy in the first 50% of its length (on the basis that after this point, friction and metal memory begin to pull it back).
Conversely, a stretched spring releases most of its energy in the latter 50% of its length. I will be experimenting with a wheeled undercarriage (over dry land) to guesstimate the amount of force over distance travelled it takes to launch into controlled flight. Once I've got some idea, I should be able to do some sums to work out how much of a stretched spring I will need to get it into the air (and not in the water. Of course, learning to land on the water is a whole different can of tuna! I was thinking more of a controlled stall or even landing 'dead-stick'. Over to you Dunc... PS, I like the idea of a static flier as well... The real one will be quite delicate... I won't even be able to fly in anything but the lightest of winds.
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #39 on: November 01, 2007, 10:27:16 am »

To clarify, the depron was for you Martin !  I was looking at your very thick balsa crutch airframe. A formed monocoque shell in depron will be worth considering, Tony has the right idea with vac-form. Blue foam can be carved and sanded to the streamlined shaped of any aircraft and the inside hollowed to lighten and accommodate the r/c gear.  A simple variation on the well proven bungie launch technique will suffice to get the `plane to flying speed in a short distance. The slipstream from the large prop used in electric flight is one of the main factors in foamie aircraft success plus very good power to weight ratio. The "flying" version could be slightly overscale in size and some additional wing and tail area too, just enough to be unnoticeable. However the aircraft is awayy down the line yet and so is the next bit of (maybe)useful information...I spotted some woven wood blinds in both "Homebase" and "Focus DIY" furniture stores yesterday that might be a good source of deck planking. They come in mahogany, chestnut,oak and tan colours, have a look. There is also bamboo round rod version that could be useful for pipework etc. Not cheap but strip from a wood supplier wont be either, might pick up some  second hand, keep watching the skips when a house is being renovated ! Don't know what size you require but might be near enough scale width.
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tonyH

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #40 on: November 01, 2007, 11:05:01 am »

Sorry, no photos yet since I'm still at the easly stages. The Walrus is technically not the correct aircraft (it was a Hawker Osprey but I thought that the b****y great float underneath would really upset the flying!).
My other idea for the launch was to have a simple falling weight, since this would give a linear thrust pattern. This would also be easily adjustable.
I discounted springs since I understand that the power is torsional, i.e it relates to the twist in the wire whether it is compressed or stretched.

Whatever the outcome It'll be fun trying!

Any thoughts on the wattage needed? I reckoned on about 40 but since it's a pusher there may be other implications?

Tony
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #41 on: November 01, 2007, 11:45:02 am »

Tony , sorry I cant help with electric thingies, I just buy ready-to-adapt over the counter stuff. Best source of info on the type of plane you both need is on www.aeronutz.flyer.co.uk based in South Leiscester. These guys are the dogsboz when it comes to miniature scale flying models, good list of suppliers of the ultra-light r/c gear you need. They think in grammes not ounces. Re pushers, remember the thrust-line is the same as a tractor ie upwards when behind the wing. Probs with limited size of prop clearance I`d think on Walrus, electric power usually use oversize dia props.  Original Osprey would be easier, pendulum effect of single float beneficial not a handicap . Walrus more problems to overcome IMO
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #42 on: November 05, 2007, 11:01:11 pm »

Hull skeleton and base two thirds done now. Starting to look like IT might one day be a SHE! Did a full size cardboard turret mock-up and worked out the mechanics of rotation and elevation. Still working to a tolerance of 2mm... or trying to! That would be just 80cms in the full size ship and only 2.28cms in the model. More piccies as soon as I can take some in daylight (when I'm not working at my proper job!). Think I may have found someone to 'glass' the hull as well! More later...
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #43 on: November 05, 2007, 11:36:38 pm »

Good, progress O0  Awaiting pics .    2mil  ???,  nearest 1/2" is my tolerances :embarrassed:   Re glass; try for epoxy if you can, stronger, less odour, better resale value. If you are getting it for nowt....beggars cant be choosers, just take it !
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #44 on: November 06, 2007, 04:51:44 pm »

The 'glass' guy is coming over in the next couple of weeks... gives me a major deadline for hull completion doesn't it! :o Think I'm gonna go electric for the gun mechanisms... construction templates for 15" gun turrets drawn out, will transfer them to the ply in... oh... about ten minutes time! ;)
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Arrow5

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #45 on: November 07, 2007, 10:19:01 am »

Yer 10minutes are up....pics if you please >>:-(
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Capricorn

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #46 on: November 11, 2007, 01:59:41 pm »

Hello Martin and all,

Finally stumbled in to where the action is.  Quite a project, looks like you're moving along nicely.  I'm about to start cutting bulkheads for my project, a 1:35 scale Fletcher class destroyer.  I'm planning to power it with a steam turbine.  I thought it was ambitious at 10'-7" and 100 lbs (130), holy cow, your boat will be "huge".  Am I correct in assuming she will displace around 2000 lbs?

I'd look forward to being the escort, but unfortunately I'm across the big pond, and inland about as far as one can get, no lack of water here though.  Cap
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #47 on: November 12, 2007, 05:41:04 pm »

Hi 'Cap',
Yep, she's going to be big! If things go well once she's afloat, I might even get her over the pond as I come over every year or so. It would be an honour to have your destryer as an escort. I also going to be building a 'Battle' class destroyer (1/35) to go with her. Just finished the basic 15" turrets- that is, the shell of them! Now comes the hard part. DETAIL! O0
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MartinH-K

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #48 on: November 14, 2007, 11:35:08 pm »

I need to 'power' the turrets with servo's. They'll be direct line- NOT r/c. I need them to turn the turret and stop turning it when I release the switch but NOT return to the neutral position. I need to do a similar thing with the guns inside the turrets but in elevation rather than rotation. In other words, I want to be able to 'point and shoot' where I want to. My question? What servo's do I need? I'm thinking 6v and powered from one battery.
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Capricorn

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Re: HMS Hood
« Reply #49 on: November 15, 2007, 02:42:06 am »

Martin,  I imagine you've got surplus electronics places around there or on the internet, I'd probably use 12v (or 6v) geared motors.  Are you running all the turrets and elevations separately? 

A fellow in Belgium is building a 1:48 scale Fletcher and has designed electronics to run all five turrets from the gun director, when the target is out of the line of fire of a turret it returns to the home position until the target is in it's line of fire again, then it rotates and aligns with the other turrets.  I think he's posted the design, circuit board etc, as well as a movie of it working.  http://users.skynet.be/nico.ottevaere/

I had planned to use mechanical switchs to basically do what Nico's electronics does but it gets pretty complicated, the circuit board would probably be easier.  Cap
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