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[Rich griff]

Hi guys and gals,


I'm still green on this site.


Did I see a dedicated thread for the airfix flower class corvette build please.


I was given the remains of a built kit which I want to convert to RC electric powered.


Please could someone lead me to the dedicated thread please as I need help and advise as to motors, props and batteries, and ballasting.


Thanks

[JimG]

Hi RichYou won't find a thread for an Airfix Flower class as they never made this kit. I presume it's the 1/72 version, this was first produced by Matchbox then taken over by Revell after Matchbox went bust.
Jim

[Plastic - RIP]

I bought the 1/72 Revell kit when it was first out around 2003 but moved house a few times and mislaid some sub-assemblies so I cobbled the boat together in 2012 with a load of plasticard.

I built it with a 4mm propshaft, 35mm plastic prop, originally a Speed 400 brushed motor (a leftover) with a cheapo '120A' Chinese speed controller from Ebay, an 8.4V racing pack (another leftover) and a brass rudder enclosed inside the kit rudder. 
 

I put bulkheads in to control any water ingress, put plasticard strips over the internal hull seams for better joint sealing and completely filled the front half with polystyrene in case it tried to sink.   I use leftover roofing Lead for ballast siliconed into the lowest parts of the hull - tested in the bath until it sits correctly.

It's been my 'daily driver' ever since - it's the perfect size to sit on the back seat or carry to the water.

[malcolmfrary]

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,59501.0.html
Is the dedicated thread for the Revell 1:144 scale Flower.
Deans do a 1:96 one.  Not for the faint of heart.

[Rich griff]

Doh, my bad !


Matchbox 1979 Loa 34 1/4 inch, beam 5 1/2 inch, hull made from 4 pieces plus decks etc..


I will look at the revel thread and base stuff on that. Seen new revel kit in a model ish shop in caernarfon, I tend to leave a feel stain on the pavement.


I will ask about motors batteries  props and c of g/ trimming/ ballasting  when the time comes.


Thanks for your help.


rich

[Rich griff]

Is there a dedicated thread to the revel 1/72 kit please ?


Yes, any air fill with foam.
I have made a start with deck removed so access can be made via removable parts of the superstructure, having tall combings so any water in deck flows out thru the scuppers rather than into the boat.


I will made the rudder and steering easy to remove for prop shaft servicing, and still be a dry boat.


The lake can get quiet choppy and the boat needs to be dry.


A test will he boat floating in the bath and "shower" tested for water ingress. In my opinion it must pass this test.


All boats I have made so far have past this test, the Lesro did suffer from slight water ingress, a few drops, thru the sheet holes, and did get some condensation which was easy to deal with.


Not sure about prop shaft yet as it's gunna be difficult to arrange for the inboard end to be on it above the waterline.


Maybe a bulkhead arrangement and toothed belt drive from motor, a lid, so if water makes its way in it will be contained in a box....n nt sure yet. I use Castrol lm grease filling the stern tube which work well in the sea rider etc., But the inboard ends of Thier stern tubes are on it ever so slightly above the water line.

[Plastic - RIP]

Not sure about prop shaft yet as it's gunna be difficult to arrange for the inboard end to be on it above the waterline.

Maybe a bulkhead arrangement and toothed belt drive from motor, a lid, so if water makes its way in it will be contained in a box....n nt sure yet. I use Castrol lm grease filling the stern tube which work well in the sea rider etc., But the inboard ends of Thier stern tubes are on it ever so slightly above the water line.

Why should the inner end of the prop shaft be above the waterline?     I've never built a boat like that - I always get the motor as low as possible - usually siliconed to the inside of the hull - the shaft is normally horizontal and is greased to stop water ingress.    Never had a problem.

[T888]

Amen 

[malcolmfrary]

Shaft length is not critical, but stainless is essential, a lubricator is a fine idea.  Make the external thrust washer actually two brass washers with an "O" ring sandwiched between them using water resistant grease as the butter in the sandwich.
For power, a 15 volt 385 run on a 6 volt battery (or 7.2, or, these days, 7.4) will be fine, giving scale performance plus a bit for luck.
Sailing trim needs it to weigh 5 1/2  to 6 pounds.  An SLA needs a little trimming ballast and leaves enough spare capacity for things like a sound unit and a smoker.  More modern batteries will need more ballast.
Be careful with expanding foam.  It has the unfortunate reputation of waking up on a hot day and testing the bond between hull and deck.

[TheLongBuild]

Along with the various threads on here, this might be worth checking out.


RC Flower Class Corvette and Armed Trawler Group | Groups | Facebook

[Rich griff]

Thanks for all the replies, and about the expanding foam, was gunna ask about that as I used the white stuff shaped and tacked/jammed in place.

[Plastic - RIP]

Thanks for all the replies, and about the expanding foam, was gunna ask about that as I used the white stuff shaped and tacked/jammed in place.

Yes - never use expanding foam - a lot of it also gradually absorbs water too - not great for floatation.       I use poly beads from a bean bag bought in a charity shop for £1.       I mix it with glue in a poly bag and then 'pipe' the mix into any spare cavities inside the hull as a last defence against the boat submerging and being lost - no matter what happens.