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[Circlip]

Cos Cascomite ain't available any more.


  Regards  Ian.

[DJW]

Haha..!  I do remember using Cascamite on my ever model boat build, a Sea Urchin, way back in the day...


I used Titebond 3 on my earlier Aquarama, its waterproof and I've probably just got used to it's flow, grip, drying time, what it's good at and not so good at.  It also mixes well with sawdust to bulk it as a filler.


Regards to all.
David.

[Martin (Admin)]

Cos Cascomite ain't available any more.


  Regards  Ian.

[SailorGreg]

Say "Cascamite" to any builder of full size wooden boats and just watch the expression on their face!  Let's just say it is not held in the highest regard. 

Greg

[DJW]

Evening All


Stern is coming along nicely, now planked and sanded. The Proxxon belt sander is really useful...








Feels like headway being made now with the hull. Over two years into this build...


Regards to all
David.

[T888]

Nice David 

[ChrisF]

Blimey, it doesn't seem like that long ago when you started!

Chris

[DJW]

Evening All


Quite a bit of progress made on the framework of the boat. At the stern I've got the rear hatch optimised and nicely flush with the frame that holds it in place. Cockpit area has been worked on, angled steps in front of the seats plus the panels  between cockpit and cabin are added. I've started shaping the bow frames that will define the forward deck shape, a work in progress right now. Adding filler here and there as required.




















The Belt sander is getting a workout. Working hard to ensure symmetry. I think the rear sun deck is going to get some attention from a large hole saw. It's quite heavy and doesn't need real strength.


Best regards to all..!
David.

[DJW]

Evening All

Had a  it of time to make some more progress with the build. I've got the chine rails attached and have done more sanding and shaping then checking with planks to see how they're going to lay.



And as of today









Also been fitting the exhaust stubs through the stern, and working out how the flanges are going to be shaped. I'm using the 3D Printer to get the shape right. The Aquarama flanges seem to have 5 holes for  screws, and the flange has to attach to the pipe at around 25 degrees. So I'm printing a guide to get the holes in the right place, and another mount that's going to hold the brass flange in the lathe at the correct angle to bore out the pipes 25mm diameter...  We'll have to see if it works..!



Here with a printed flange mock up



And the tool designs





I'll report back...
Best regards to all
David.

[DJW]

Evening All

Progress on a couple of fronts.  The exhaust flanges are now created in brass cut from 50mm bar stock on the little lathe:





And checking fit with the drill guide:



And parted off:





Used the 3D printed drilling guide to get the correct spacing of 2mm holes in the flanges:






Then used the cutting guide in the lathe to mount one flange at a time allowing boring out for the exhaust stub at a 25° angle, so it fits the sloped transom.





I need a good fit so the silver solder will flow nicely.





And when in place on the boat:






Need a little adjustment to get the flange mounting holes in the right place, but I'm pleased with the fit, next task is to silver solder, challenge there being to maintain the angle needed...  Then I'm thinking to use 2mm brass inserts in the hull, and I'll need some sort of gasket to seal.

In other news I've been using the hole saw to take out some wood where its not really needed, the floor of the seating area, also the aft sundeck:







That's it for now.
Great weekend to all.
David.

[Martin (Admin)]

 
Looking Good!   

[DJW]

Evening All

Thanks for that Martin..!

I've got the exhaust stubs silver soldered. Not plain sailing, the flanges were hard to hold in the correct position, maybe I should have wired them. Anyway  done now. A little more polishing and they'll look the part.



This is the port stub:



And Stbd:



Next task will be to drill through the flanges and insert M2 inserts for the bolts. Also planning to create gaskets from thin foam to ensure a seal.



On first attempt I managed to screw up the port stub as the flange holes weren't aligned properly.



Got there in the end. !

Best regards to all.
David.

[DJW]

M2 Brass inserts araldited and pushed in, tight fit so needed a small hammer..!



And the stubs bolted to the inserts.



I need to check whether the flanges use cross head or flat heads. Allen heads are what i had available and just to check the fit.

Also started the forward planking on the hull. 2mm x 10mm bass wood.







Best regards to all.
David.

[DJW]

Evening All

Making progress with the hull planking. Gone about as far as I can for the moment, I want to add some epoxy on the inside to the areas that will become sealed when fully planked. Also need to find a way to build in a fan, but temporarily seal it from all the wood dust that's going to be coming it's way...







I think planking is one of those things where if you ask 10 people how they do it, you get 10 different answers.

My approach for this first layer is to cut the plank appropriately to size, clamp it into place. Mark it up and trim it as required for a good fit, and do this with its pair on the other side. Then drill where the plank crosses a frame using a small hand drill, while making sure the plank is firmly pushed against the previous plank. Drilled same size as the brass pins, and about 3/4 the length of the pins. Aim is to firmly hold the plank and not split it.
Then I glue up the hull to take the plank and hammer the pins home. I use small clamps between frames to make sure the new plank lays alongside the previous packs also larger clamps to apply pressure to keep the planks tight together along the glue line.





Leave it for about an hour for the Titebond to cure, then repeat...

Best regards to all.
David.