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[Klunk]

Ok have taken the plunge and bought a microtorch that will heat upto 1300 degrees.
I want to make a home made rudder.
1mm sheet brass and 2mm rod.
Whats the best flux and solder???
Ps have made jig to hold parts.

[malcolmfrary]

When I did mine for my Lindberg trawler many years ago, I sat both items on a bed of fireclay, and used soft cored solder.  And an iron with a big tip.  Nobody told me it couldn't work and wouldn't last.  "Many" is late 1980's.  Painting over it afterwards probably helped.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,66323.0.html  might be helpful if really determined to go the silver solder route.

[derekwarner]

Hi Klunk........ spend as much time as necessary viewing the tutorials on-line with Cup-Alloys......Derek


https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/for-model-engineers

[Jerry C]

Two sheets 1mm brass for rudder blade. All soft soldered using jigs and small torch.


Jerry C.

[Jerry C]

I forgot, cleaned everything with wire wool, applied Bakers Flux and laid solder strips then ran everything together with pencil torch.


Jerry C.

[Martin (Admin)]

I got this one Klunk.... never used it!

[nemesis]

It is fine having all those degrees, it is the volume of heat you require. nemesis

[Mark T]

Two sheets 1mm brass for rudder blade. All soft soldered using jigs and small torch.


Jerry C.

I was just about to say the same thing Jerry - no need for anything other than soft solder and most importantly nice clean parts with a decent flux.  Nice job by the way :)

[john44]

Hi Pete, I agree, on that type of job soft soldering is plenty good enough.
For a stronger joint I use plumbers solder and flux.


John

[SteamboatPhil]

Pete, I agree with Derek, check out cup alloys, their web site is very useful...
whatever you do, remember the golden rule, heat the material not the rod....