Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down

Author Topic: Which 3D printer to buy...?  (Read 7063 times)

Subculture

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,189
  • Location: North London
    • Dive-in to Model submarines
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #25 on: January 29, 2022, 11:26:23 am »

If detail is a priority and you're not into printing large stuff, then resin is a no brainer.

You can pick-up a Voxelabs Proxima 6 on ebay brand new for under a ton sometimes on their auctions. e.g.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203805857433?hash=item2f73c69699:g:MHIAAOSwXHthy3RY

It's uses a mono LCD rather than RGB, so you get a longer life for the screen and quicker printing. It has a good build quality and printing size is adequate for most purposes. It's a 2k printer, but that's more than adequate for the majority of users, the difference between 2k and 4k is less than you think, and you pay quite a premium for the higher resolutions.
Logged

grendel

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,949
  • Location: Canterbury, Kent, UK
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #26 on: January 29, 2022, 11:39:05 am »

I have just purchased a second 3d printer a flsun q5, currently it can be found on ebay for £139, a friend bought one a few weeks back, and had good reports about it, I will use this one for PLA as its a pain to convert from ABS to PLA on my davinci.
Logged

essex2visuvesi

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,148
  • Location: Finland, England, Finland!
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #27 on: January 29, 2022, 01:34:22 pm »

[/size]
 OK, thanks ..... the ELEGOO Mars 3 Resin 3D Printer does look very interesting!




A good choice sir
Give me a shout when it arrives and I'll happily give you a quick tutorial on setting up (Bed levelling etc)If you have access to a 3d printer already then theres a couple of parts Id suggest you print off ready:-https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3895021 - Aids draining of the completed modelhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811679 - Resin level gaugehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4069636 - Drain Stand for emtying the vat
Logged
One By One The Penguins Steal My Sanity
Proud member of the OAM  (Order of the Armchair Modeller)
Junior member of the OGG  (Order of the Grumpy Git)

DJW

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 685
  • Location: London
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #28 on: January 29, 2022, 07:00:16 pm »

Hi All


I've recently purchased a Monoprice Select Mini V2, about £180. Quite modest in 3D print world.  I'm using eSun PLA+ sourced on Amazon, really strong. Designing in the remarkable (free) Tinkercad software and then using Cura as the slicer.  Really pleased, its a first foray into 3D print to learn the pros and cons.  I'm mainly using the printer to prototype parts before committing to metal versions, like these motor mounts:





Also making parts for a bandsaw fence and router table.  Its just cutting the time taken to make up parts, or guides to make parts so much.  Would happily recommend.


Regards to all.
David.

Barney Magrew

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 79
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Devon
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #29 on: February 02, 2022, 09:48:04 am »

An update to my Box issue, I had an e-mail on Monday after 3 phone calls asking me to send them a micro usb cable as without it they ere unable to test my printer!   Really, this from a technology outlet.I have received my money back and gone to a different supplier.  Would still recommend the Creality series just not "The Box" to buy it from.
Logged

CarlC

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 96
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Hampshire UK
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #30 on: February 03, 2022, 08:19:15 pm »

I have a Creality CR10s, quite an old printer these days. That said it works great, and has a large print area. I have just printed the body panels and gears for a working 1/6th scale outboard motor, and all of the deck fittings, cabin and rams on my pusher tug. I also have a full hull for a boat under way (2 sections printed one to do).



Logged

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,422
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #31 on: September 11, 2023, 08:32:27 pm »


I'm thinking about doing some 3D printing, inspired on by sir AndyN,
I'm looking at the Ender 3 xxx .... well established, still being made, LOTs of tutorials, LOTs of upgrades....

What to you guys think?

 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-S1-Pro-Filaments-220%C3%97220%C3%97270mm-Black/dp/B0BQJBXVV6?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

Waiting2Retire

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 34
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Reading
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #32 on: September 11, 2023, 09:11:36 pm »

Hi Martin,

I am quite new to the forum, but have been tinkering with 3d printing for some time.

I bought a Creality CR10 a few years back, as at the time you could get a good price (it was still post Brexit) and I was attracted by the large build area for printing plane parts or helmets for the kids!

It comes in pieces and you will do well to carefully assemble it square and true, as a model builder I am sure this will come as second nature, but over the years I have noticed a lot of people don't take care and if the gantry is not square and the Z axis level you are going to have a lot of problems and get very frustrated very fast.

The levelling of the bed is the key to a happy life. The printer has a routine in it to level the corners which works OK, adding the BLtouch sensor (magnetic touch sensor on the print head) brings a big gain as the printer will measure the print bed and compensate for it not being level. Another important step is to set the Z height, the gap from the moving head to the heated bed - printer has a routine to calibrate that and lots guides.

They all bend over time, mine is shaped like a bowl on the screen, but the same is +/- 2mm so you can't see it with the naked eye. The mesh it makes then compensates to lower the head more in the dipped centre and less and the corners.

I now find however I have rarely used the large bed space, and mostly print smaller items (sometimes to assemble into something bigger) and I also have space issues with it as it's quite large. I don't keep it in the garage as I planned due to the moisture ruining the filament and prints - so it lives in the house taking up space.


I think doing it over again today I would go for a smaller model like the Ender 3 pro - but as you say it's a pretty old design these days. The advantage is that its stable and mature, lots of spares etc.

Using the PC to drive it is frustrating, depending on your technical levels a raspberry pi running "Octoprint" will revolutionise how you use it, as you can connect the printer to the pi with USB then use a web browser to run the print, calibrate the bed and all the rest.

The latest thing is Klipper, uses a Pi to drive the printer not the board inside - I have not tried it looks complex.

What will make a cheap Creality work better is upgraded Marlin firmware. There is a Facebook group called Nic's reality firmware ([size=78%]https://www.facebook.com/groups/485185272196044/[/size]) where the firmware from Nic Wilson is much better than the default. I also found the calibration routine much easier to use as well.

In any case I think the entry point is pretty low these days, and massive information on the web, as well as lots of things on thingiverse and other sites to print without having to design yourself.

My steps to success were:
  • Put spirit level on the Z Axis to make sure its level first, adjust screw drive as needed to make plumb
  • Power up Printer
  • Warm up the bed to print temp (50-60c) - important step if you measure the bed cold its going to move when heated
  • Level all the corners (use printer inbuilt routine) with a sheet of paper's width to the print head
  • Run the BLTouch calibration from the octoprint web page
  • Print stuff
You see a lot of "experts" with their own methods, but this is what worked for me. My prints always stuck to the bed, could to be removed when the bed was hot but just fell off once cooled. I see a lot of people saying use glue, pritt stick, special sheets - I have never used any of that and had great success. If the print does not stick either the print head is too high (z-offset is wrong, or the corners are not level, the bed moves when heated/cooled over time), or the filament has got moisture in it.

Word on filament, keep it in the plastic bag with the silica gel when not using for a period, or it will take moisture from the air and affect your prints.

I think the push at the moment is fancy printers for £££ but I had no problem with the old creality provided I made sure it was setup with basic steps above each time I powered it up.

Good luck :)

Paul


Edit for Typo's and to add if you want to print fine detail items you don't want an extruding print like an ender but one of the tank resin printer - small scale items, people, etc. You can get a nice finish on most stuff with a well calibrated extruding printer - at least at the scale I work 1/12th and up
Logged

grendel

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,949
  • Location: Canterbury, Kent, UK
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #33 on: September 11, 2023, 10:27:57 pm »

I think that nowadays you really need to get almost the latest printers, A friend swears by the elegoo ones, bamboo labs seem to have a good offering, the FLsun i bought just a couple of years ago was light years ahead of my first printer, and 1/6 the price, these new printers seem to be a similar level of advancement again, with simple assembly when they arrive of the basic modules, and plug the wires in and off you go.
modern machines - easy setup from the box, usually just add the gantry and plug in the cables.
Logged

tica

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 456
  • Location: Vemmedrup, Denmark
    • Skalamodelskibe
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #34 on: September 12, 2023, 06:26:15 am »

I started out with a Ender 3V2 and after some mods and tweaking, it's running very nice, and has been for the last 12 months or so.
My Ender 5 Plus were both crap out of the box, but a change of firmware and some calibration did the job on those.
The easiest Ender I have owned is a Ender 3 S1, only needed some some change in the start G-code to ensure stable bed and nozzle temp before it starts printing. (Did the E-step test, extrusion test ect. but didn't need to change anything. But that depends also on the material you use.
I now have a Bambu Lab X1C and it is a game changer but it comes with a prize  %%   (Still keeping my E5+ for big prints and the E3S1 has been changed to a 5W laser engraver/cutter)
Choosing a Ender 3S1 Pro, or any other in the same prize range, check out https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html guides for calibration, this will help a lot.
Logged
My postings are only reflecting my own opinion and should not be read as the holy grail of truth :-)

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,422
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #35 on: September 12, 2023, 10:57:11 am »


Well I very tired last night so got onto Amazon and ordered an Creality Ender 3 V3 SE ,
 ( and probably some other stuff I can't remember, I'll have to check my email ).

I looked over all the Creality Ender 3 (starter) printers and this one seemed a good deal as it has an
 all metal head & Metal Dual-gear Direct Extruder but mainly for auto self leveling.

I've decided to try and learn Onshape as it's browser based ....
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,422
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #36 on: September 12, 2023, 12:41:07 pm »

Hi Martin,

..............

They all bend over time, mine is shaped like a bowl on the screen, but the same is +/- 2mm so you can't see it with the naked eye. The mesh it makes then compensates to lower the head more in the dipped centre and less and the corners.
 
Using the PC to drive it is frustrating, depending on your technical levels a raspberry pi running "Octoprint" will revolutionise how you use it, as you can connect the printer to the pi with USB then use a web browser to run the print, calibrate the bed and all the rest.

What will make a cheap Creality work better is upgraded Marlin firmware.

Word on filament, keep it in the plastic bag with the silica gel when not using for a period, or it will take moisture from the air and affect your prints.

Good luck :)
Paul


Thanks Paul,

Interesting read!

Why is Leveling and warped bed such an issue?
I seen this thing using Pi boards and "Octoprint" - too scary for me!
I never mess with no manufacture Firmware... unless there's an easy role back option.
Why is the moisture in Filament 'a thing'?? - Never heard of plastic being effected by moisture before.....  {:-{

Thanks again,
 Martin
 
 
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

Umi_Ryuzuki

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,399
  • Location: PDX, OR USA
    • Models and Miniatures
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #37 on: September 12, 2023, 05:25:33 pm »


Bed Leveling: If the bed is not level, the printer head may not press and adhere the 'plastic' to the bed. If your print comes loose, then the printer head will start stringing spaghetti all over the print area, and drag it around.
So, level the bed. ... When I had issues with getting a print adhered to the bed, not sticking, blue painters tape solved the issue.

Not sure about warped beds, as I have a glass printer bed.

PLA is essentially plant based... https://3dinsider.com/what-is-pla/

Moisture will cause popping at the print head as it flashes to steam.
This may or may not cause deformities as it prints, or worst case scenario, a failed print.

Colin Bishop

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12,188
  • Location: SW Surrey, UK
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #38 on: September 12, 2023, 05:51:16 pm »

When given some 3D printed feathering paddle wheel components I was advised to paint them as the material used can absorb water.

Colin

Logged

Waiting2Retire

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 34
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Reading
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #39 on: September 12, 2023, 10:32:21 pm »

My experience with the PLA and moisture was poor print quality after leaving it out on the side of the printer for a long time unused, it is ďa thingĒ but if you print a lot I think itís no problem, if you leave printer standing for a few weeks best to put filament in a bag.


The beds all warp slightly, I guess to try a modelling analogy itís like putting a layer of filler on a hull. If he hull is flat and you put it on at the same rate you have even coverage.


If the hull is tilted at thr start the filler is not touching the hull on the tool, in the middle itís just right, at the end itís scraping the hull with no clearance and nothing is being left on the surfaceÖ if that makes any sense?


If he bed is level, the extruded puts the hit filament down just right, not to close, not to far away just right.
Logged

Klunk

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 5,214
  • If you know who I am, please remind me!!
  • Location: luton, beds
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #40 on: September 13, 2023, 12:04:01 am »

On a related subject, and its a can of worms.....
Which program to use....
And pc spec! I'm having massive problems with windows 10 and 11 slowing down to a crawl due to background programs....Microsoft edge deleted, chrome now sends all data to Google for analytics.  Im going to get a new pc and just keep it off line, just to do rendering etc
Logged
SECRETARY - LUTON AND DISTRICT MODEL BOAT CLUB
full time penguin

Umi_Ryuzuki

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,399
  • Location: PDX, OR USA
    • Models and Miniatures
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #41 on: September 13, 2023, 12:38:20 am »

Using the default software for slicing for Creality, and Anycubic.
I don't need any special features...?

 My computer is an old Win10 with, like 24g ram. AMD FX(tm)-6300 Six-Core Processor 3.50 GHz
It has bogged down running CAD, but I have not had issues slicing files.
 
I understand that setting up a Win11, you plug it into the internet, then click okay, and quickly unplug
it from the internet while registering. Then it says no internet connection, try registering later.
And it keeps the computer from creating a "microsoft" account, and always syncing  online or with 'one drive'.

I never used EDGE, the only browser I have had has been Firefox.

.

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,422
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #42 on: September 13, 2023, 09:40:56 am »


What is 'Slicer' software?
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

Circlip

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,465
  • Location: North of Watford, South of Hadrians wall
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #43 on: September 13, 2023, 09:43:29 am »

Quote
Why is the moisture in Filament 'a thing'?? - Never heard of plastic being effected by moisture before..... 

  Difference between Nylon 6 and Nylon 66, 6 absorbs moisture. Was once advised by a supplier to 'boil' some straight from the mould Nylon items to give flexibility. After the 'dry' period on non strimmer use over winter, my coil of wind on line goes into a pan of boiling water before use, saves numerous breakages.


  Regards  Ian.
Logged
You might not like what I say, but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.
 
What I said is not what you  think you heard.

grendel

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,949
  • Location: Canterbury, Kent, UK
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #44 on: September 13, 2023, 11:27:08 am »

slicer software does what it says on the tin, it takes your stl file and takes a slice through your object to create the code for the printer to print each layer, then it goes up the width of your layer, and does it again for the next layer to print. once its complete it stores the information away and saves it as a file for the printer.
Logged

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,422
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #45 on: September 13, 2023, 01:12:16 pm »


OK, so one comes with the printer  / Creality will have their own slicer ?

BTW:



 Thinking about it, maybe I should have ordered a couple of rolls of filament!

NB: Good / best ways to store filament?

Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

tica

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 456
  • Location: Vemmedrup, Denmark
    • Skalamodelskibe
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #46 on: September 13, 2023, 02:00:25 pm »

I normally uses Prusa Slicer for my Ender series printers, but I'm not sure it has a profile for the Ender 3 V3 SE, but yes they do have their own Slicer.
Logged
My postings are only reflecting my own opinion and should not be read as the holy grail of truth :-)

Subculture

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,189
  • Location: North London
    • Dive-in to Model submarines
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #47 on: September 13, 2023, 02:26:34 pm »

Use Cura with my Ender 2 (pretty much identical to an Ender 3, just smaller). Works perfectly well for me, get the latest version online, free software, https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/

Slicers are intimidating at first, as there are loads of parameters that make no sense to the uninitiated, however lots of tutorials online as this is a very well supported slicer.
Logged

Umi_Ryuzuki

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,399
  • Location: PDX, OR USA
    • Models and Miniatures
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #48 on: September 13, 2023, 05:01:16 pm »

Yes, you should find a thumb drive, or SD card with your printer.
It will have your slicing software to install on you computer.
 
Slicing is mostly a drag and drop procedure. However, everyone will typically rotate and tilt a model to minimize overhangs and therefore minimize supports required.
You can also rotate to minimize height, and therefore number of layers and maybe shorten print time.
It is all a little balancing act for all that, the software shows an estimated print time.
 
Once that is decided, you tell the software to "Save Gcode", and the software will slice and save your gcode file.
You then move the gcode file  to the thumb drive or SD card, and take it to the printer.
 That's the straight forward story...  ok2

JohnG

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 122
  • enjoying the learning
  • Location: Dorset
Re: Which 3D printer to buy...?
« Reply #49 on: September 13, 2023, 05:29:09 pm »

hi martin,
 some v good advice here - esp the post no32 from 'waiting2retire' - i'd agree with pretty much all he says:
- I run an older ender 3 with various upgrades - v pleased with it
- bltouch sensor to handle bed levelling well worth having
- a raspberry pi with octoprint recommended - find a tutorial and follow it and it should work! i find adding a pi camera has saved a lot of  walking to check how a print is doing  - obviously optional!
- marlin firmware worth having (i just upgraded to klipper instead - far from hassle free and so far not sure worth having).
( i found the guy on "teaching tech" on youtube spoke sense and easy to follow to install marlin https://youtu.be/U8_ldMckGDE?si=Np1qyubIV4v5rry0
this looks like the latest version:  https://youtu.be/eq_ygvHF29I?si=d0QH7OditNLSsePu.  i followed his tutorial to add a bltouch too, and used his calibration guides as suggested by tica. )
- i've been printing boat bits inc hulls with abs and petg - (wary of PETG melting in  a hot car....)  and have found keeping the printer in an enclosure (old small filing cabinet in my case) helps with keeping temperature
- cura as slicer works well for me - tried a couple of others and came back to cura

regarding storing filament - i use a sunlu filament drier box and have found it hassle free - about £30 on ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403548837796?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wiqnnyjirsy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=VvsUDjybSVK&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
with a few different open spools, i keep them in a sealed plastic box with small silica gel dehumidifier, but it's the sunlu drier box that reconditions and keeps dry when using.

hope all this helps. wish you lots of success. 
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.096 seconds with 21 queries.