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[JoJoElbe]

Hi,250 screws later (or so) ... 
The slipway part I got also the inner profile, the main slide profile mounted. It's not directly conneted to the polystyrol parts. Insted I have horizontal U-profilels on 3 positions connection the outer and inner alu profiles. (image 1+3) 
These later will be used for a stand or mounting the slipway to the ground. For that I've printed spacers with 12deg gradient on one side, so the U-Profiles will be parallel to the ground. image 2
The inner profile, got some openings (many holes drilled and then used a file (?) to make it rectangular. Each opening got a cylindrical roll mounted, roughly as on the original slipway. To get better sliding a 3mm teflon (PTFE) piece was mounted on both sides and on the bottome between the rolls (nor really needed but as part II will have no rolls it looks similar).  Finally I put the hull onto the slipway and maked the position and width of the slide plates for the side keels. These were of 2mm thick teflon stripes. Screwed into the spacers (red) on the threaded rod. These were printed with 80% filling so that the M1 'sheet metal screws' found grip. image 3
So for now part I of the slipway is finished. The metal grid fillings and plates are still missing, but there is no time left for them now.
It's just 80cm short and the 4 second movie has a slipway with less than 12deg gradien, but even the empty hull with just the motors in slides down.
https://youtu.be/GKiaBRLyjV0


Have a nice sunday,Joerg

[kinmel]

Exceptional !

[JoJoElbe]

 Hi,

got a week vakation. Building models can be nice, but developing the stuff can be pretty hard.

No idea how many hole were drilled twice and how often ideas were 'deleted', turned, bent etc.

I have no power left for a long detailed description but in short:
Changes on teh boathouse: The upright profiles got extended about 4cm, still fits on top of the closet, and now I have a bit more space to pack the folded slipway.

I added a plywood plate to get the slipway in and out easier.

Slipway folding mechanism: Used simple flat connection angle (steel), cut one 'arm'/side short. Pot them on top of each other, drilled a 4mm hole through them. Bent on of them 'twiece, so that the can work without jamming. (see photo 3) In addition I put a square profile in the U-Profiles for better stability.

A standsystem is still missing and the Tyne is still open at the keel end.
The photos show:

1. packed boathouse and slipway

2. unpacked

3. simple foliding mechanism

4. mounted slipway

And two films:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BqGKqpFGVY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFO9232sSlk

Works without weight in the boat!OK, I'm donen now, need to rest 
Best,Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
motor, controller and accu are just put in for the test, they are not optized.

My Tyne on the slipway into the water, once it's redy it can be great.... unfortunately it's still a long way to go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jr_CUHBNj4
Best,Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,from the video before it's clear that rudder, motors and propellers are mounted. For a germanwide forum meeting I prepared a lot (as you can see above) but had no time to write and even forgot to take photos of some steps. Here are some of the earlier works:
Image 1.Windows, the window frames were prepared in CAD and printed 3d, window glass is PETG, easy to cut.  Painted with primer and red spray and white by brush.

image2+3:
inside and outside the correct positioning for glueing the stern tubes with distance holders. The inner stayed as extra mounting stabilisation
well, and the I found something on the table:Image 4 :  stern tube holders....
nevertheless, I didn't want to take away the high amaount of epoxy used for glueing the tubes... so I took a polystyrol tube  over the stern tube aoutside, cut 2 long holes in it, same in the hull bottom and from the inside I glued two pieces of PS to hold the stern tubes. (image 5)
Tubes for the rudders were mounted with 3mm inside, the rudder shafts have only 2mm, a bowden tube serves as intermediate, everything fit's strong but still good to turn. In case I really need 3mm rudder shafts, I can take out the bowden tube and exchange the rudders.So with propeller it looks like that now (image 6)
J

[JoJoElbe]

this weekend it had to go on somehow. To much work and family business over the last 2 weeks.
So I had laser cuts of the upper frames (deckside), unfortunately 1 and 1.5mm ps so first I had to glue them, the find the right position. Not that they were not marked in the plan but for the right position relaed to the deck openings.
Making the long story short, I moved one of them in the right and 3 oft them in the wrong direction. I know why I didn't work on the trim plate movement system.....
Anyways, the frames were glued on each side, 1mm below the hulls upper rim. Then I added a 5mm square PS profile between them and later on each side an extra 2,5mm square profile through the frames from bow to stern.

Then I decided to cut out the first parts of the deck. 1mm PS should be enough with the frame construct below. On that I layed the coutout of the plan with openings cut and frames marked (I cut smaller openings in the deck to match the wron corrected frames).
So now the man part of the deck is on (just with tesa film), something to look at. Still many things to do before it will be glued.Have anice week,Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi and some recent update from this week:
my colleague who can do the laser cutting soon leaver for holiday, and then me, so until late august no chance to cut. Therefore I made a quick sketch (from the plan) of the deckhouse parts. They were often not symmetric!

Image1:  No time, maybe different polystyrene? -- the cut had more burn dirt than usual.

Image 2:  I made a stabilyzing construction for the inside and used revell liquid (contacta professionell) as glue. Which, this time, worked much better than UHU Allplast.

After a while I checked the deckhouse and found the roof flat. The supports were too thin. So I put it roof down with the sides on some boxes, and then put a lot of that glue around the supports added som aluminum blocks as weight in the middle and the next morning, the roof of the deckhouse wasn't flat anymore. Maybe 1mm to much bow, but who cares.

Image 3:
Still a lot to do, but it could have been worse.  (the roof was cut too braod so that it fit's in any case)

Have a nice wekkend,Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
well, at home is a bit 'drama' at the moment, not the time to do special things more jumping from one part to the other without finishing one.Nevertheless, still kind of progress.

I started with a part of the windows set, unfortunately the plan is wrong and several photos show, that on each side of the deckhouse there are 4 different windows.... well ... what to say, ther sure is a reason for that but building rougly 40 boats there would be reasons enough to build it with only 2 different shapes.

I also struggled with freecad a bit and it crashed while doing the non-rectangle window frames. I gave up for now, too much computing already, but the square and rectangular ones were deeloped and printed. The screws have a height of about 0.06mm. Which can be seen on the boat, I show a testprint with and without colour on it earlier.

The next were printed staying horizonal (3-4mm above ground), that also worked.

Here are two images which show earlier build time:
The Deck framework:

and the filled back end of the main keel:
 
I had some leftover (well bought two kinds used only one) bumper gum in D shape, 6mm height and 5mm weight. Could work that way. From the plan it should be 7x6mm ... hard to find.

on the next you can also see the rudder construction from top

finally I've found two simila ventilators for motor cooling. Made an s-like support to glue into the open keel.   Not glued because I still need some round cooling fin part to stick on the motors.
Next I mounted a platfporm for the 9.9V 3S LiFePO power source. Just sticked with 4 dots of UHU-Allplast, once all electronics is selected and there it will be glued with epoxy.


on top of it, for now, the box with the sabertooth 12A dual controller:



That's it for now, I hopa I manage a few additions to the deckhouse.


Have a nice sunday,
Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
it's just hot outside...
ok, this was on the sunny side, just sun from aside. Must have been even higher when direct in the sun...

Anyways, on our terrace its 36,x degC in the shadow. Hamburg airport juts reached 37.7 C and still has 3hrs left to rise.... looks like the beat the oveall record of 37,7C... in the city center it's 40deg by now, but for the official counting concrete floor etc. doesn't count.

Nevertheless, no good weather to put PLA prints on the terrace at the moment

I've printed most of the windows over the last days, resin, they got some primer sprayed on it yesterday, that stuff was dried as it reached the surface (almost).

There are still some mistakes in the inner corners of some frames and the front ones have to be resized (there is a difference between boat and plan which I try to get over).

Yeah, speaking of the plan.... when doing the cutsketch for the laser I did it in a rush, now I wanted to build the roofwindow.... f*** .... there is none... so I used the cutout part and glued it back to the roof.  Still needs a fine sanding but probably tomorrow when it's colder.
 
Well, tomorow temperatures should get back to normality...

Best,
Joerg
P.S.: I doubt that the images work, so here they are again:

[derekwarner]

Hi Joerg...hope you are enjoying the warm weather

So the way I see the motor cooing fans is drawing external ambient air through the fan, over the motor, then exhausting the marginally warmer air within the vessels hull

I understand Lifeboats are designed to be 'shall we say 'watertight' & this can be a problem, as with any air cooling system relies in an unobstructed flow of large volumes of air

One consideration would be to reverse the direction of the fan flow [you must flip them over as you must not simply change the polarity] and have the fan draw air from within the boat through the slots in the motor endcap then up from the motor body then exhaust that air to atmosphere

Installing the fin pack in the current format as shown will not help as the warmth from the motor is drawn to the aluminium fin tube around the motor, only to be blown back over the motor by the fan    however, cooling fins would assist if the air flow were reversed

Either way, the volume of air & the need for watertight integrity are difficult factors to manage...if you have a watertight boat, the air will progressively warm and provide ZERO cooling

As a totally different approach could be a pumped closed loop of water cooling around each motor, then connected to return dual length of tubing under the hull so the sea water provides the temperature differential effect, this way you can have a totally watertight vessel

Seawater under hull cooling is common in many Classes of vessels...smaller Traweler types are typical

Derek


[PS...I have a pair of 25x25mm fans that I plan to build into a heat exchanger taking progressively heating boiler water though the heat exchanger and blowing ambient air to the hotter water tubes which will be mounted in a small assembly under the horizontal cylinders of my paddle wheeler engine & so hopefully preheat the engine & so minimise any hydraulic lock on startup]

[JoJoElbe]

hi Derek,well, warm weather, I'm from Hamburg, everything above 25degC is a pain  It beated the 30 year old record yesterday, the comparable station got 38,5deg C and a newer one came to 40,1degC. Just for a day and luckily the wind direction and speed changed in the late afternoon to 'north sea' wind, in one hour it dropped almost 10deg then.
The watertightness of the boat is indeed a point.  I don't plan to drive it in the worst weather as the Tyne will always come with the boathouse.  I also plan to make the door to the deckhouse to open. And at the back deckhouse there is a 'box' over the width of the upper edge on the backside, which I can also use as air in/out. Both should be safe against the 'splash' from the slipway and spraywater from the front.

Capsizing is not planned, it's never planned I guess (see the image attached). 

Changing the direction of the flow is possible, both motors are sitting between the opening for the deckhouses.  I have no clue if I really need the cooling. Calculations show that it may get quite warm running 10minutes in full speed, which I usually don't do.  (for wave sliding and such things I have a different boat)These calculations for a different boat show similar problems, which I never had, probably because I usually don't drive full speed for long (I should start sailing, I guess).

The vents will also have a separate switch, so either full or nothing. I have to find out. 

The active water cooling would be an alternative. I'm happy that you mentioned  'active' cooling, as the inactive, just by driving, water cooling is often questionable.Your idea would just work with bag-like patches, tubes under the hull are good for fishing vessels but not for lifeboats.  The original of the capsized model in the attached image has only that internal water cooling, it was especially made for shallow waters and muddy or sandy ground.
What kind of pump is needed for that? Something like a bow thruster, or jet just in small?
Best,Joerg

[derekwarner]

Joerg....about a year ago, we had a English Member [jet engine engineer working in the Middle East??] who was going down the road of fast electric designs [excellent carbon fibre watertight builds] with brushless electric drives and was trying to resolve motor cooling

One of the issues he had was the high salinity of the local waters precluded more conventional scoop water cooling so if I remember he was using an internal pumped closed loop

I'll spend 10 minutes & see if I can find a link ..... .....try this ....good reading from the builder.............


https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,67449.0.html

Derek

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Derek
thanks, it's a nice discussion to read and learn from it.  Allthough I can't see an image with the water tanks.   The mentioned radiator outside the hull, in german rescue boats called grid coolers. They have an insert to the hull in this there is this grid of water tubes (or plates) to cool on the outside:
http://seenot.spuelsaum.de/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/secretarius-IMG_2763-1500.jpg
These days they have it as second, independent colling system. My earlier example had only that, but the difference is 54 to 380hp (PS).

For now, I will keep the vent idea. If I finally need more cooling, the Tyne wouldn't be the first boat where I cut the underwater hull... after the model was ready.
J

[Trucker]

hi joerg
the build is coming along nicely how ever i have a couple of question, 1, are you building to the plan or are you going to build her to the slightly newer version as most people seem to including my self,, 2, i see in one of your build pictures a pair of brass a frames for the prop shafts but you do seem to have fitted them, you appear to have used plastic, my concern is the plastic joints may not hold once under load, mine did exactly that so had a big job replacing them...


Trucker

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Trucker,
the brass parts are from the 'me idiot' effect.... I have that more often (see opening in the deckhouse roof). I glued the steven tubes and forgot these brass frames. So I had to invent something to fix the steven tube after it was glued to the hull. The plastic is thicker (1.5mm) than the brass and the plates stick on both sides into openings of the hull and plastic tube. They were glued with Uhu-Allplast and over that a line of superglue (gel).  That should stand and avoid vibrations. I'll have a longer test in early september.
Building: I use the plan and all photos I could get, not all in high resolution and many are wideangle shots. I have no measurements from any boat, so I have to guess quite often from the photos.  If I have an (almost) parallel view, I can put it in the back of the plan part (in Adobe Illustrator - luckily I got that at work) and correct the pan or make an intermediate where I can live with. 

My big advantage (exept for the built reports) is, here in germany are only very few people who have a clue how it should look like.     In opposite to our german rescue cruisers...   

Currently I'm working on an idea how to fold the mast and 5 antennas by rc, quite tricky and at the end I may use some dirty tricks to 'let it look what it not is' 
Also I have to set up the winch for early september....  and family holiday is coming too... with lifeboat day in germany, maybe a dutch one too.


Best,Joerg
P.S.: I found a 8x8m D shape foam rubber for the boat.


 

[JoJoElbe]

Hi, in all this chaos at home I managed to get a day for my project.
One thing needed for test rides is a closed deck. So I added some 2,5mm square PS profiles to the suports for the deck where needed and the I decided to install urgency opening options on the deck. The rudder section lies beneath the deck, I can change servo and reajust everything from the big opening, but one never knows. So I made a cutout for that part. It will later be glued and covered with paint so that you won't see it but in worst case I just need to open that smal plate and not destroy the back deck.

Similar for the motors. The original boat has two maintenance plates with about a million screws.  Beneath these I made two cutouts which later will be covered by my probably printed maintenance plates. Again the motos can be taken of or exchanged without these openings, but ... one never knows.

I may do a bit 'Süllrand'/ coaming rim?  The frame around the two deck openenigs where the deckhouses will stay on.

And soon order a smoke generator, not for all times but when starting the motors in the boathouse and  urgent full spead ahead....

That's it for now, best,
Joerg

Ah, the image:

[JoJoElbe]

Hi, I needed a life test.
So I put together 2 Krick Max Power 500 and 3S LiFePO 9,9V.
5min full speed and the motors were only handwarm, clear below 50degC.

The two vents were just put on top, they may not have helped as the deck ist still missing, they may get more importent when the deck is closed (there will be a small opening in on of the deckhouses to let the warm air out, if needed).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr3fYPD4zmU
I had only little water in the tub, if it would have been half fulll, the Tyne would have jumped out.
So, after some fun, I'll go back to the winch now.
Best, Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi all,
next weekend is a nice  swimming pool meeting in north germany.
My TYNE has to go there. The slipway has no progress since early june but if you let the boat slide down the slipway, you should also be able to winch it up. I just found the company which built that winsch and asked for help, but they are on summer vacation at the moment. So I decided to built a raw lookalike model for winching the boat up and for further tests. The original has so much details, noch chace to do that over a weekend.

Motor with gear gives a few turns per minute at 6V, came from the 'bay'.  Running the whole stuff with a BEC (3A) and a double ralais switch with end stop options.  I'm swithing the winch with one of the sticks (throttle etc.) wich works quite well for me, because everytime I leave the stick it selfcenters and the ralais switches off.

The winch parts were fast built, not exactly symmetric holes on front and back side, I mounted one of the side plates in opposite way so it looks a bit odd, but it doesn't matter for the test.

OK, enough words, here it is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KjthFhHO4A
I'm quite happy, the velocity is quite ok, motor and winch easily managed winching up (did it several times, nothing got warm).

Many things to do still, maybe I find time this week for a better connection to the boat.

Have a nice week,
Joerg

[Capt Podge]

Wow! That is a fantastic job you've done on that winch Joerg, with a pretty good speed as well - well done 


Ray.

[JoJoElbe]

Hi all,
'Port Aukrug'  (swimming pool action this time with more than 500 model boats -  a few images on my website, in german, but the gallery doesn't need any words) was coming closer and time was running away.... I gues most of you know that feeling....

So I take off one day to finish preparations on the tyne as much as possible. So, what did I do:

• got the oil out of the shaft system and replaced it with high speed grease
• made a box for the front battery pack (for later functions and motor vents)
• glued the vent holder + epoxy glue
• added protective grid for the trim plate mechanics
• glued all thre bollard cores on the bottom of the hull in an extra part polystyren + epoxy glue (that way you can later hang the boat on the bollards without destroying the deck)
• as improvisation for winching up I made a Y-brass holder to be put over the bollards. That holden is at the end of the winch rope and I use a bamboo stick with a clamp to put it over the bollards.
• added the big sprayrail --- didi it alone which was a mistake... I'll take it off an redo it later
• moiunted all deck parts with rubber glue and masking tape
• drive and steering test in bath tub, everything fine!

So I went there and even while mountig the whole setup people started to come and look and ask, quite often I heard something like ".. I saw it in the forum..." -- ok german forum but nevertheless for you in your country it's sure similar.

Then I could start testing, learning by doing. I hate calculations and theory.
The power of the two Krick mas power 500 with an 3s 9,9v LiFePO was fantastic. A bit too fast but I hope with full weight the will fit perfectly.

Slipway worked as before, many things to be replaced or updated, but that's all I knew before.  Similar for the winch, it stayed 8 hrs until the little, fast made, driver?? (the part that sits on the motor axis and is connected to the wich drum) broke. Nothing serious,

The steering was more of a problem, I changed this and then in the settings on the controler and on the transmitter and reseiver, until ... a nice modeller mate said "just swap the poles on the motor..." ..... f*** .....
The easiest of all solutions and IT WORKED!  The boat almost turns on a table, getting backwards on the slipway became easy (I still have to learn better steering).


Over I'm really happy how everything worked out and how large the interest already was.

Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RR55BXxMsy8

Anyways, at the end there are some photos.
Best regards,Joerg

[ScottW]

Can certainly see why people came by to ask questions; that boathouse and slipway is a thing I haven't seen before.

[JoJoElbe]

Can certainly see why people came by to ask questions; that boathouse and slipway is a thing I haven't seen before.

a few models in great britain but hard to find in germany. Boathouses and slipways we know but releasing the boat for running down the slipway is something new!

[derekwarner]

That all pretty impressive Joerg......well done ..............Derek

[JoJoElbe]

Hi all,
the deck is off again.  Meanwhile I managed to get the smoker/steamer running:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfY1YJucQac
This is a steam genarator from Uwe Fleer, a BIG version with double set of heating resistor. Copper tubes have 12mm diameter on the outside. More or less the size of the exhausts. 

I used a controller from him too, choose the manual setting, means full spead and heat. 12W, 7,2V

There is also the option to get control via the motor speed + finetuning options but tha't for later, hen everything is mounted and the exhaust flaps are mounted.

Have fun,
Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
besides smoker, exhaust flaps and other things I'm building the rear deckhouse.  It's not so easy from the plan and as on many other points, the plan doesn't show the final boat.

The ain part is built by some support parts and walls. The rounding is made by using a 1mm polystyren sheet an cutting lines with 1-1.5mm distance into it. That way one can easy bent it and glue it.  Of course some filler is needed afterwards.
(photo 1)
Extensions towards the front are made by plan and photos. probably not 100% scale but ....
In the plan missing are the buoyancy tanks which I build according to the best photos I found... fortunately in cad and printed in 3D as I finally downloaded almost all Sir William Hillary (S-W-H) images from the Douglas Station Facebook side and found, that especially for the S-W-H it is different to most of the others. So oncce again and after a size corretion a third time printed.... just in PLA but that's fast and easier. The final tanks and all other parts will be made in resin later.
(image 2)
There are also various vetilation covers which I've printed. The screws will be very fine but still visible at the end.

Storage openings have been cut, the one in the back will hold a small loudspeaker at the end. Covers will be don of 0.3mm thick brass.
I need tons of hinges and hop I'll manage to build them from 0.1mm brass. We'll see, if I won't manage, I'll develope something for laser cut.

Handrail is also preliminary done and the life raft + holder on the back is testprinted and ready for resin.

So here it is as it looks now:
(photo 3)
I hope I get something more done next week.
Best regards,
Joerg
And here are the images: