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[zooma]

You have come up trumps with that nice clean set of plans Will 


If we can find a set of drawings or templates for the 4 bulkheads and the transom it would make a nice easy build for us.

[madwelshman]

I'm still searching Bob, I'm not giving up yet.
Fingers crossed we can find a set. As you said, it will make the build much easier and quicker.


Will

[Stuw]

Great plan but as you say no real info on the bulkheads as they were supplied.

[madwelshman]

Stuw, from what I've learned and as you say, templates aren't/weren't included. But, I'm still hoping that someone out there, whilst building a Stiletto, took the time to draw templates from the parts before building.
I know it's a long shot, but you never know.


Will

[Dave_S.]

What is the relationship between the Stiletto and the Arrow? I seem to remember that Lesro made two pairs of models with either a 'powerboat' type superstructure or a 'cruiser' type, but using the same hulls (I think) for them in two different sizes. I may be wrong as this is based on looking at the adverts in Model Boats rather than anything more precise.


I have a SLEC Arrow and drew around the bulkheads before starting the kit, I can try to scan them if it is of any help. I don't know whether there are any differences between the SLEC kit and the original Lesro, though - never quite got around to buying one before they disappeared.

[canabus]

Hi Dave


Based on the info so far the 38and 1/2" Rapier( cabin cruiser) used the same hull as the Javelin( Off Shore Racer).


They made a smaller version of these at 25 and3/4" Stiletto(cabin cruiser) and the Arrow(Off Shore Racer).


The SLEC Arrow would be more accurate in correctly cutout parts because of laser cutting.
But a bit difference in internal construction.


Scanning the Arrow bulkheads as PDF would be very, very helpful.


Also can be modified back to match up with the old plans.


Harry


 

[Dave_S.]

I'll see what I can do - busy today & this evening, but should get it done on the weekend. I am a bit limited in that I have only an A4 scanner.

[zooma]

As far as the project to build a pair of Stiletto models with Will goes, now that Will has found a nice clean plan for me to work from, I can cut the cabin sides directly from the plan's side elevation.

The Arrow kit will give us all the hull information we need (albeit a SLEC Arrow and not a LesRo original), so although it may not share the same component shapes, it would be close enough to graft the two together and only leave the cabin roof curvatures and shapes to form by eye.

Will already has a Stiletto so he could probably draw around the roof ends to give us the correct curvature for the formers and the tops to give us the overall shape so that would take care of that too.

A set of LesRo templates would obviously be a very nice way to make a pair of authentic replica Stiletto models (using the original makers construction), but mixing the details that we already have from my new Arrow kit, Will's Stiletto model, and the plan that he has found, we should be able to make a pair of models that will "look the part" - even if they lack the original manufacturers construction.

....so unless we happen to find a set of original templates (copies of original kit parts), an unwanted Stiletto that we can buy to take apart (and restore again afterwards) - we now have enough information to make a pair of mongrel replicas by converting the Arrow kit into a Stiletto look alike. 

[Dave_S.]

Do you already have the bulkheads for the Arrow sorted out? I can scan them if they are still needed, but it sounds like you have the same (SLEC Arrow) kit as I do.

[zooma]

Do you already have the bulkheads for the Arrow sorted out? I can scan them if they are still needed, but it sounds like you have the same (SLEC Arrow) kit as I do.

Hi Dave,

When I started this thread I did mention that I already had a new Arrow kit, so we can use that for any hull references that we need.  Now that Will has also found a nice clean plan for me to use, (and he already has a Stiletto that he can provide the roof details from) I think we have everything we need to make a mongrel Arrow/Stiletto that will look the part!

I need to get on with building the Sea Commander that came as a "default set of Stiletto parts" (I cannot resist restoring or saving classic model power boats) and this will give Will plenty of time to copy the Stiletto roof details to give me all the info I need.

Hopefully there will be a pair of StillArrow's (Arrowetta's?) running around by the end of the year! 

[Dave_S.]

Sorry, I must have missed the first post (or forgotten it). My Arrow has been keel/frames/stringers for about 2 years now. I lost some confidence in it when I added the keel doublers, picked it up and the keel broke in two. I glued it together, and the stringers and skins should hold it if and when I finish it. I'll add a bit of glass ribbon along the keel for extra strength when I get that far.

[zooma]

Sorry, I must have missed the first post (or forgotten it). My Arrow has been keel/frames/stringers for about 2 years now. I lost some confidence in it when I added the keel doublers, picked it up and the keel broke in two. I glued it together, and the stringers and skins should hold it if and when I finish it. I'll add a bit of glass ribbon along the keel for extra strength when I get that far.

 


Funny you should mention that .......I made a new keel for the Sea Commander and had the doublers fitted and when I picked it up - and the rear end snapped-off !

The keel assembly is very weak at the point where the prop shaft slot is cut.  I had already opened the slot out to make a good fit for the shaft (although the shaft was not fitted at the time) and when I cut away the doubler to fit the rearmost bulkhead it weakened it still further and the end fell off!

I glued the slim remains of the keel back together and added a 4mm ply top cover to keep it strong until I add the stringers. When the skins are eventually fitted it will be good and strong.

[Dave_S.]

Glad to know I'm not the only one!

[zooma]

Glad to know I'm not the only one!

I think if the prop shaft had been bonded in it would not have happened............"never too old to learn"   

[Dave_S.]

I prefer to wait until I'm ready to start the motor installation before glueing the prop shaft in. The prop shaft cut out in the keel is a weak point, though - I wonder how many have managed to do the same as us over the years.

[canabus]

Hi All
In an interesting look at some of the American model boats.


From Bulkhead 5 on the Sea Commander(for example) to keel would stop and

change to two wide stringers angle butted together for the rudder and prop tubes to go thru.


The rear of the prop tube support is a glued add on.


Canabus
 

[zooma]

I prefer to wait until I'm ready to start the motor installation before glueing the prop shaft in. The prop shaft cut out in the keel is a weak point, though - I wonder how many have managed to do the same as us over the years.

I always determine the prop shaft angle and secure it in the keel first before aligning the engine, mount, and coupling, so I could (should?) have bonded the prop shaft into the keel to strengthen it before "swinging it around" 

Having everything in the drive train "loose"and trying to secure it all accurately at the same time does not work for me. 

I prefer to align the motor after it is fixed on its mount with a "solid" alignment coupling knowing that the prop shaft angle is already rigidly fixed in place to give as near perfect an alignment as possible.

The rigid alignment coupling is removed and replaced with a flexi coupling of the same length after everything is secured in the correct position. I have used this method since I started with r/c model boats the 1960's to prevent any avoidable vibration in power trains with petrol engines and glow engines and it works just as well now with electric motors.

Miss-aligned drive trains can cause rough running models and possible fractures and pre-mature failure and wear that can be avoided with a well aligned motor and coupling.

[ChrisF]

We each have our own favoured methods. I prefer to install and align mine with all the components loose, though I do use non-adjustable mounts.

I've never had a problem with a keel breaking even though I pre-slot them. But have you seen the width of keel and doublers that I use!

As far as the Stiletto goes, watch this space! That's all I'm going to say at the moment!

Chris

[Circlip]

PM Chris.


  Regards   Ian.

[zooma]

We each have our own favoured methods. I prefer to install and align mine with all the components loose, though I do use non-adjustable mounts.

I've never had a problem with a keel breaking even though I pre-slot them. But have you seen the width of keel and doublers that I use!

As far as the Stiletto goes, watch this space! That's all I'm going to say at the moment!

Chris

I never use the adjustment on my mounts once they are fitted Chris, so mine will be like yours - fit and forget!   

[ChrisF]

I'd use one of your type mounts though if I was replacing an existing mount and/or prop shaft as the adjustment would make it easier to get the alignment right.

With my new-builds I move the prop shaft to get the alignment right. Horses for courses and both have the desired result.   


Chris

[zooma]

I'd use one of your type mounts though if I was replacing an existing mount and/or prop shaft as the adjustment would make it easier to get the alignment right.

With my new-builds I move the prop shaft to get the alignment right. Horses for courses and both have the desired result.   


Chris

I go the opposite way with motor and prop shaft fitting Chris as I give the prop shaft angle priority.

The prop shaft angle is chosen to suit the hull so once that is set I don't want to change it.

I make the prop shaft as short as I can and then make the motor mount and coupling fit to the shaft.

Motor mounting blocks/plates to sit the motor mount on are the last part to be made and fitted after the bottom skins are fitted and before the side skins are fitted.

Retro-fitting is not quite so easy in a pre-made boat, but on almost every restoration I have done the above method works just as well but sometimes I have to cut out the original mounting blocks/plates and make new ones to suite the new installation - sometimes due to poor alignment of the original fit, but just as often due to changing the motor to a suitable out-runner that is smaller than the original power choice.

[canabus]

Hi All


Found this plan by Circlip on another forum as PDF.


Look pretty good !!!!


Harry

[zooma]

Hi All
Found this plan by Circlip on another forum as PDF.
Look pretty good !!!!
Harry

That is a good find Harry

It is interesting to see the use of a pair of sub-breasthooks (parts B1A) on this plan - similar to those I have just added to the Sea Comm reclaim/build, but with the chine stringers wrapping all the way around them. 

This is a much better idea than shown on the Sea Comm plans where they just meet at an un-supported point on either side of the fore-keel.

The Stiletto is a nice little mini-Rapier and if it performs as well it will be a super little boat to run.

[canabus]

Hi Zooma


I will be back to the printers next week and a resize to 30 and 1/2" (774mm).


As one of the members wishes to build one.


We agreed that 640mm is too small and 980mm(SPOOKY size) is too big.


Only have to draw up the bulkheads which is very easy.


Harry