Hi , I built one last year. The hull is resin and looks like it was 3D printed using a photosensitive resin, not the molten filament used by simpler printers. The shaft outer tube slides into a moulded tube in the hil stern and was quite a good fit. I used thin superglue wicked into the gap after fitting the tube. All of the rest of the joints were made using superglue. The windows were fitted using R/C modellers canopy glue (basically PVA white woodglue)) There was some slight warping of the cabin roof at the front which meant the front window didn't fit as well as the rest. While the instructions show the prop shroud and the brass cage over the cabin being glued I actually soldered them for strengthI am using a Hobbywing Quickrun 1060 brushed esc with two 4 cell NiMh pencell packs in parallel for power to give approx 5000mAh capacity. One is fitted in front of the motor anad the other had to be split into 2 sections to sit either side of the motor to get it to sit right in the water. I originally had both in front of the motor but this made it bow heavy and it tended to dig the bow in at speed. With this voltage there is more than enough power and it will go at more than scale speed. There is one drawback with using the pencells as at higher speeds it does cause the pack voltage to drop enough that the radio telemetry detects a low voltage to the receiver and the Tx starts bleeping as a warning. I am using a Turnigy (FlySky) TGY-i10 Tx with a 4 channel Rx.
Jim
