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[Backerther]

Hi all;
Next summer/autumn project is this plastic model kit again to be converted to RC version ,which so many Rc boaters have done so far respectively in their ways. In this sense, it's not unusual item at all.
Even for me,this will be the second to build ,though the first one is not in my hand currently and was not completed satisfactorily enough as she was built sooooo many years ago,30 years or more...???I don't remember correctly...
Anyhow,I am already too old to challenge a full-fledged model ship as to need some years now as other modellers do.
Moreover,I like warship model and fast cabin cruiser model that will naturally go to MTB !!
MTB and short time project will naturally go to plastic model...the boat is to be operated in the large lake...
The boat is much better if seaworthy....All that satisfies the afore-mentioned elements is none except ..
yes, LINDBERG 1/32 MTB PT-109 which is my conclusion this time.!!
I got it yesterday and contents are as in the pics:


As for the pics below;
Grey PT-109 is the first one.
Attention to the third pic;The name of a Japanese destroyer running over the PT-109 could be read as "Yukikaze"(though not even correct Japanese characters) that is incorrect. "Amagiri" is correct.!!

[Backerther]

Hi all;
This kit is not necessarily good one as compared with Italeri MTB kit generally,especially its profile.
But I was surprised to know that two stern tubes were nearly self-aligned each other with no additional adjustment.
Frankly speaking,it is troublesome to exactly align these settings for me. But this time no special work for this point.
Both stern tube brackets were securely,exactly and tightly sat in the holes to hold the tubes in place with one shot
and without no adjustment.!!
As for this part,the work to go is only adhesion if other alignment should be OK
It should seem that this boat would be a good runner on our boating lake.....???   ♩～♪～♬～(^^♪

[tica]

Looking great 
I just started on a 1:20 build of the 109 before I was hit hard with Covid, still fighting the aftermaths of it 

So please keep posting 

[Backerther]

Hi tica;


A great thanks for your comment.
I feel so sorry about your aftermaths of covid-19 and hope you to recover from it as soon as possible to get started your
PT-109 of very large size.!! I myself rather have come to be interested in your 1/20 model very much to be posted on here
in the very near future.....???


Kiyo

[frogman3]

HI  KIYO  THE MTB is looking good but them prop shafts look as though they are pointing down a bit to much instead of forcein the boat forward it seems to me that at that angle it will try an lift the boat upwards but this is not critisuim of your model kiyo just an observaion
chris 

[Backerther]

Hi Chris;
Nice to have your kind comment.
I don't mind of the content of your comment since thrust line of the prop shafts are indeed downward as to let us imagine
the bow -up sailing at speed.
The scene is just like the box art of the kit which I like.
I don't want to change the angle of the stern tubes as it is troublesome to do and other modellers of the same kits have not done so, nevertheless sailing postures of them look OK for me, not so noticeable bow-up,in a extent of common sense of the fast boats.

Thanks Chris !

[Backerther]

Hi all;
As most of you know,this kit is sooo old and not so necessarily satisfactory with many parts of the contents.
But this is comparatively large as a pla-model, while humble with lesser parts as compared with Italeri kit which I think is better for RC fast runner on the lake. As I said before,this is the very reason why I chose this kit for RC runner,not a display precision model.
This boat will also be served as a regular runner on our boating lake, therefore, robustness and easy handling are both important and beneficial for me at the boating site.

I just placed major RC gears briefly to know how the boat will be balanced depending upon the location each radio gear.
This boat has to be securely water-cooled as it is supposed to run at speed normally on the water.
The battery seems to be placed forward playing a role of balance adjuster  ...

[Backerther]

Hi all;
I got a pair of counter-rotating screw props which diameter is 36mm.
Many boaters who converted to RC version seem to have used brass props which are about 22$ each nearly the same size.
Mine is 5$ each. Appearance and texture are not good unlike brass one,but so cheap and several sizes and shapes are
ready at low cost if necessary for finding the best size of props.
Strength I think is OK since I am using this type of props already with another boat.
1;CW and CCW props
2;Enlarged the 3mm hole to 3.17mm(1/8 ㏌）which is the same as the shaft of Mabuchi 540 motor
3;Kit props are 38mm dia 2-bladed
4;Temporarily fitted into the stern tubes and checked if the props were easily replaced against the rudder locations.
 Judged OK if the rudder turns sharply.
 

[Backerther]

Hi all;
Pics for today are of motor couplings.
I used a very small but stiff while a bit flexible coupling made from so called engineering plastics.
The motor is,of course, Mabuchi 540 SH normal motor which I think is suitable for pla-model boat MTB.
This coupling had to be enlarged at the hole to 1/8 in(3.17mm)diameter from 3.0mm to meet both motor and screw shafts.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
In the next place,I coiled cooling water jackets around the motors tightly.
If necessary,I intend to apply metal bands additionally around the jackets to get maximum effect of tightness.
Now,the hearts of the boat are ready.
Next will be ....troublesome setting inside the hull to get as silent and smooth rotation of motor as possible...

Pics4-6 are the experimental work of coiled water cooling jacket followed by actual running for close to about 7or 8 minutes
last June.
The result was actually confirmed and proved in the test to be OK.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
In the next place,I made bulkhead motor mount.
I used a long-sleeping contour gauge to trace a V-shaped hull bottom line for an easy work to make the motor mount.
The motor mount is made from fiber wood.
1;Contour gauge I bought for RC airplane building many many years ago
2;I set the gauge to trace the V-shape line
3;Transfered to the carboard
4;Then,made a template to check if it's OK
5;Finally made a bulkhead motor mount like this
6;And varnished 5 coats to secure a maximum water-proof and stiffness though the material itself is already sooo water-proof.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
Now the bulkhead motor mount is ready after dried it up perfectly.
And I fitted the motors temporarily to the mount to see how they go well.
Everything went on neatly and the mount has become sooo rigider with the motor installation than a single mount.    
Then,trial fitting of the bulkhead mount was carried out in the hull. Fundamentally OKed.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
This model MTB is just reaching a kind of mountain path of the RC conversion project currently.
Alignment adjustment between motor shaft and screw shaft is always troublesome and annoying to pass through
safely,smoothly and time-saving this point of work for me.
Especially this time ,the model boat is equipped with twin screws...


1;Bulkhead motor mount seems sitting properly on the bottom of the hull.
2;And I made a very brief test of motor/screw rotation at a very low 1.2V dry cell to see how they go for around ten seconds....
  They rotated calmly and smoothly with no special strange noise on both shafts with no special previous setting.!
3/4;In the next place,I laid the deck on the hull to see how good accessibility into the hull is...
5/6;Accessibility seems fundamentally OK.


 The work for this day is satisfactory to me very much with no problem about the important motor-screw shaft alignment
in a comparatively short time beyond my expectation.!! ♫～♬～♬～♩～(^^♪

[Martin (Admin)]

 
That motor bulkhead looks like MDF ..... make sure it's very well sealed against water!   

[Backerther]

Hi Martin;


I dooo feel awkward to say that I haven't known the correct designation of this material not only in English,but also even in Japanese until you indicated here.!!! Though I have used sometimes this material that I bought many years ago.
According to my examination in the internet, indeeed this material seems MDF duly.
And I tested several times this material to confirm if it could be OK for motor mount by soaking it in the water for around 2 minutes or so and put it in the room. NO problem at all each time on the next days when dry.
However,I applied 5 coats of urethan varnish to secure and increase water proof finally,though I don't think the mount is soaked always in the water in the hull.


Kiyo

[Backerther]

Hi all;
It is about the time to make a platform for radio gears.
Unless I set the platform,I couldn't go further to build this boat.
For this reason I just made simple but "vast" platforms from thick paper as templates to study general arrangement of the radio gears.
It seem there are too much space to set radio gears for me,despite of 1/32 scale boat....
And I have found the battery is playing a nice balancer by moving forward or backward largely if necessary. 

[Backerther]

Hi all;
And I cut the RC gear platform out from the plywood and MDF in the odds and ends box.
Then I applied urethan varnish this time too and will slightly sand the ply wood platform to get a smooth surface for a
good appearance.


By the way,it seems to me that it has been booming here to build MTBs and MGBs very much which I think so cheerful.!!   and enjoyable and interesting to see how others do in their respective ways here.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
So far as this 1/32 PT-109 is supposed to sail rather fast on the water with twin powerful 540 motors,I have thought it quite necessary to give a good lubrication to the stern tubes.  For this purpose I naturally made grease tubes in the stern tubes to meet the above lubrication.
I do think it so indispensable or it had better to set the grease tubes not only for lubrication, but also for water-proof in the stern tubes,at least the boat should run faster all the time in each run for close to ten minutes or so.
1;I made a hole in the stern tube with a file for greasing.
2;Using a 6mm brass pipe,I cut it to make two grease tubes after drilling 4 mm holes.
3;And insert the stern tube through the grease tube aligning the hole of stern tube.
4;Then I soldered the joint parts followed by two -part epoxy-glues for maximum strength which I call hybrid bond,!!
5;Finally I set transparent tubes and color caps which were in the odds and ends. So color is different each other


Well, the stern tubes are now ready to be set in the hull bottom.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
 I checked if the grease tubes should interfere with another stuff inside the hull.

1/2;I just set the stern tubes to see how they went well in the hull and with the  radio gear platform
3/4;Then I set the deck to see if there should be any problem concerning the maintenance and easy access.
I felt it fundamentally OK.

[Backerther]

Hi all;
I drilled some holes in the bulkhead to pass water-cooling silicone tubes and servo lead.
MDF was a bit hard to drill beyond my expectation..!!
1;drilled three holes
2;If necessary....like this...
3;kit furnished locators that are very meaningful to decide the screw shaft setting.
4;I rounded the corners from my own imagination that the parts should have been like this,though I don't know 1/1 real ones.

[tica]

Great to see some good progress over the days 
I'm stuck with my 1:20 build due to extreme temperatures, 32-34°c in the workshop (No A/C in house/workshop)  and 30°c in the shade in the garden.
Off tropic: I didn't know that there were a H.C Andersen them park out side Tokyo, looking nice. I have been in Tokyo a couple of times for work and several times a year in Akita for the last 6 years, has changed job now so no more Japan for me for the time being 
Keep up with the posts 

[Backerther]

Hi tica and all;
So glad to have your interesting comment.
Just an off the topic for a while, which I do like the deviation for rest.
I 've often heard curiously in TV that many European countries,especially northern countries don't need A/conditioners normally while and because a/c is considered as the essential to have in Japan for a long time in a sense, to such an extent that
Japan has beeeen tooo hot so far. Even I have 7 A/Cs in my 3-storied very small house.
I normally switch ON of the a/c at around 33 degrees C in my work shop.


The pic is under the mid-summer with the sun at 12;00 o'clock high over me and also never less than 35degrees C perhaps.!!

Kiyo
 

[Backerther]

Hi all;
Well then,back onto the theme of my 1/32 PT-109,I made a routine water cooling system in this fast runner.
1/2;Drilled two holes this time to expect smooth flow of the water for the two motors.
3;The locations seemed best here but a deliberate care had to be taken not to interfere with tiller arm link.
4;I also made inlets of water from 4mm brass tube.
5;I set supports for the inlets
6/7/8;I just set the parts temporarily to see how they look.....


Fundamentally OK without interference with other stuff and could feel the water might go through the inlets to the motors.

[Stan]

HI Backerther Interesting post on this plastic to r /c operation. I have enclosed a link to my plastic to r/c operation of 596  late war Elco boat.


https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51992.0.html

[Backerther]

Hi Stan;


A great thanks for your superb build of PT boat. It would be of a great reference to my 1/32 PT-109.
Especially,detailing works and tri-screw props look so realistic like the 1/1 real boat though I haven't ever seen it before..!
Your works always have made me impressed with painstaking adherence to realise a precise scale model as much as possible.


Kiyo