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[pdq]

Hi all, apologies if this has been discussed before.  I have just finished planking my graf spee stern deck with 2 x 1mm lime strip. What is the recommendations for the finish. I am thinking a light oak or teak woodstain? Would that be right - presuming it provides a matt finish. Any other options - with product references please. Many thanks Paul

[John W E]

hi there


when I have stained planking decks - I use a traditional method of using old teabags from the teapot/squeeze out onto the planking and rubbed in to give a nice tanned effect on the decking.   When this has dried thoroughly, I give a light sanding with very, very find sandpaper - just to remove the little fine hairs which spring up from the planking.   I then seal it with at least 3 coats of Humbrol satin varnish.   Here is a link to the Graff Spee adversary HMS Exeter build which I did myself a few years ago.


HMS EXETER BUILD 1939 (modelboatmayhem.co.uk)


John


 

[pdq]

hi there


when I have stained planking decks - I use a traditional method of using old teabags from the teapot/squeeze out onto the planking and rubbed in to give a nice tanned effect on the decking.   When this has dried thoroughly, I give a light sanding with very, very find sandpaper - just to remove the little fine hairs which spring up from the planking.   I then seal it with at least 3 coats of Humbrol satin varnish.   Here is a link to the Graff Spee adversary HMS Exeter build which I did myself a few years ago.

HMS EXETER BUILD 1939 (modelboatmayhem.co.uk)

Thank you John. Never considered tea bags! your build is certainly inspirational. Do you think Satin varnish provides a better look on warships than matt?


John

 

[John W E]

... to be honest it is an individual's choice whether to use satin or matt - as long as it's waterproof and it protects the planks.    I have seen models where they have been painted with gloss varnish and paints - I personally think that may be a bit over the top.   But, as I have said, it is your own choice.   I think maybe a lot of people do use a satin finish on their models.  I used to know a friend (who is no longer with us - Peter Mavin - a good lad and a brilliant painter.   The way Peter painted a model, especially warships, where the majority of the superstructure hull is grey - he used to mix shades of grey (not 50 shades mind    ) and paint his models so that on close inspection, there would be say an area of say 2 or 3 inches of the superstructure painted in one particular shade of grey and right next to it / blended in with it would be a different (slightly darker/slightly lighter grey) and this would give the illusion that at a distance you would think it was one colour, but, obviously the closer you approached the model it was multi shades of grey.  This looked like the 'real' warships.


Thank you for the comments on my model of HMS Exeter.



John

[pdq]

Thanks John, painting is certainly a skill. i will practice with the tea bags!

[roycv]

Hi when using a varnish on a wooden deck I put it on with a small cotton cloth pad wrapped around a finger.  It avoids any puddling and uneven thickness of varnish, brush marks and it dries quickly.  In small spaces make up a pad on a cocktail stick to make sure all is waterproof.
Hope it helps.
Roy

[pdq]

Thanks Roy, good tip.

[nemesis]

Hi, A method I use is beeswax softened in real turpentine to the consistency you require and apply with a pad of fine steel wool rubbing with the grain. You get a lovely waterproof sheen. nemesis

[roycv]

Hi nemesis I have used that on spars for sailing boats comes up really slippery for the sails and ropes to slide by nicely.
I had that as a tip from a 'pen' friend (no email then) who lived in Cornwall, must have been back in the 70's.  The finish was like glass.
Regards
Roy

[pdq]

Cheers chaps. Am collecting quite a catalogue of finishing techniques!

[roycv]

Hi pdq most of us have been doing it for years and so the basics for us are 'qed'.
Regards
Roy