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[Akira]

WOW!! Very nice choice for a build. and what a job of sheeting. Well done! Are you planning on F/Ging the hull?
I look forward to seeing your solution for the lift. 

[Dan]

HI Dan lookin very good now for the hard part of sealin the hull an all the sandin down but are you goin to F/G her inside ? an may be out side ? how long is she as when this is all finished she will be heavy as if not she wont sit right in the water as it took 50 pound of batt wheight to get my tiger down to where i wanted her but very well done    AN MY TIGER i nearly finished just a few more bits to fit on
Chrisb

Thanks Chris, she comes in at around 7ft long so it's goi g to need a bit of weight to get it to sit right in the water. Next the plan is to get her sanded and filled to a state I'm happy with, then fiberglass her I side and out. Looking forward to seeing Tiger finished and on the water mate 

WOW!! Very nice choice for a build. and what a job of sheeting. Well done! Are you planning on F/Ging the hull?
I look forward to seeing your solution for the lift. 

Thank you very much! I wanted something big but slightly different to to usual. I thought it ticked these boxes quite well. Yes she'll be fiberglassed inside and out. I have a few sketches drawn up for the lift, the electrical side of it is done, so I'm looking forward to the point I can put it all together and install it. That could be some time yet though 


Cheers,


Dan

[derekwarner]

Don....I don't think your build with flattish hull plates, then add an angular box was not necessarily an incorrect way to achieve like for like with the actual Ocean hull profiles


I suspect if you were able to go back to the original Dockyard Hull drawings, you would find a similar form of construction that you have achieved 


That image you show of Ocean in service would make an interesting alternate to a pristine clean vessel


As an alternate point, Ocean cleaply has a blunt end, but full stern hull...will be interesting to see her shaft geometry


Following on.....


Derek

[Dan]

Thanks Derek! I do prefer the look of a working vessel over a freshly painted one, this is something I'll consider at a much later date, but I don't think my painting skills would do it much justice.
A few weeks before the shafts are in bull I'll post updates when they do 

[littoralcombat]

Good progress Dan, I like your work (as well as as your tidy Workshop 😀).
Nige

[Dan]

Thanks Nige, it won't stay tidy for long 

[frogman3]

HI Dan anymore done on this build?  or are you still sandin down the hull ?
chrisb

[Dan]

Hi Chris, no real update unfortunately, work and family life taking priority at the moment leaving very little time to get any work done on her. I knew this would be the case when I started her, but I'm in no rush 

[frogman3]

Hi Chris, no real update unfortunately, work and family life taking priority at the moment leaving very little time to get any work done on her. I knew this would be the case when I started her, but I'm in no rush 

OK Dan take your time an enjoy your family life
chrisb

[Dan]

Hi all,


It's been a while, I've struggled to make any real progress. However the hulls the right way up and ready for fiberglassing. I'll be using a fibreglass mesh on the exterior and a mat on the interior. Here are the latest photos.
I'm not sure but I think I missed a few replies on here, apologies if I have missed any comments or replies, it's not been intentional.


Cheers, Dan

[littoralcombat]

Nice, well done Dan.
Nige

[frogman3]

HI Dan yes you have done very well on your hull an oh F/G oh how i hate that pong even with a mask an glasses on but the sooner you get stuck in the sooner you will finish her  as i did on my tiger an i will soon be launchin her when warm wheather gets here but you are doin great but could you please just do a couple of pics at a time as it gets a bit tedious goin up an down to find the slide bar to move your pic across so i can see all your lovley work on that hull 
chrisb

[SteamboatPhil]

Beautiful work 

[Dan]

Nice, well done Dan.

Thanks Nige!

Beautiful work 

Thanks Phil! Not perfect but I'm happy with it!

HI Dan yes you have done very well on your hull an oh F/G oh how i hate that pong even with a mask an glasses on but the sooner you get stuck in the sooner you will finish her  as i did on my tiger an i will soon be launchin her when warm wheather gets here but you are doin great but could you please just do a couple of pics at a time as it gets a bit tedious goin up an down to find the slide bar to move your pic across so i can see all your lovley work on that hull 
chrisb

Thanks Chris! I've done fiberglassing once before but no where near this size! I do think it'll be a few summers yet before this ones in the water    I'm looking forward to seeing Tiger on the water! I'll be keeping an eye out for updates.


Cheers, Dan

[John W E]

Hi ya Dan


I still marvel at people like yourself and Nick B and his dad and others who build hulls using plywood to skin them and get the plywood to bend around the radius without twisting the frames out of shape.  Hats off to you gents.


Just a thought for you; have you thought about using the Zap Zpoxy ?   along with the extremely light woven roven matting that the aircraft guys use to cover their wings?  on the outside of your hull.   you would only need about 3 coats to give you a nice smooth finish.  I would also use pure resin with hardener to coat the inside of your hull to seal it.  This (in my opinion) is all that you would require because you are obtaining the strength from the plywood that you have used for your hull.


The other resin, I don't know if you have read about it/heard/used is the Deluxe Water based resin.   This has virtually no smell to it when using it - similar to the Zap Zpoxy.    one of the big advantages to the Deluxe stuff is that you wash your brushes out in water.  When I have used the Deluxe stuff in the past - I have had to use 2 or 3 more coats of the stuff  - to obtain a similar finish to what I have found with the Zpoxy resin.    When I have used the Deluxe resin, I have also had to leave it approx 3 or 4 days to harden right off; before I can attack it with any sandpaper or wet n dry.


One of the hulls I am building at the moment, I have used 3 or 4 coats of Zpoxy on it - just to get a decent finish.   I have left it for a while now waiting for me to energise myself to attack hull and finish it off.   


Food for thought, as they say


Keep posting the pictures, I myself have always fancied having a crack at HMS Ocean.
john

[Dan]

Hi John!


I think it's luck that this hasn't warped, I've not built a scale hull before now. Beginners luck perhaps    but thank you for your kind words.


I've not used Zap Zpoxy before, I was planning on using easy composites laminating resin. Out of curiousity what are the dimensions of that hull, and how much Zpoxy did you require? As I have no idea how much resin to actually order.
I will be using 100gm² woven mesh which I hope should be ok. (Alot of firsts for me on this build so alot of guess work going on  )
The more I look and think of the inside of the hull I am in two mind whether or not to fiberglass it. Again I was going on the assumption it would add strength and with the weight of the model and batteries I thought strength would be a main goal. The ply is only 0.8mm so I'm unsure how much strength is actually there.


I've not heard of the deluxe resin but will certainly look into it, thanks.


There will be plenty of photos but it won't be a quick build unfortunately but thanks for your interest. I chose Ocean because of its slightly unusual shape, size and rarity, you dont see them often. The only evidence I've seen of another model was one photo from (off the top of my head) 2006. I'd love to know if there are any others about.


Cheers,


Dan

[John W E]

hi Dan


The dimensions of the hull I am in the process of building are - 63 inches long x 'can't remember the width' 


The hull is 1:48 scale Castle Class Corvette.   I built it a while - I used roughly one box of the Zpoxy - the box has 2 bottles in it - the hardener and the resin which you mix in equal portions.


What I found and like about Zpoxy (even though it is expensive) is it is not too particular about the temperature that you are working in.   Also, it is quite easy to mix - one to one ratio - hardener and resin - with very little smell to it.


Where I think I went wrong though with this hull is I applied the resin first and then the matting over the top of the wet resin.  Then I tried to draw the resin through the matting by stappling.   When I watch people using it on aircraft (on YouTube) they were laying the matting on the wing and then putting the resin over and working it over with a stiff piece of plastic - the method I used required a lot of resin on this hull.


You will find that some people can work with polyester resin like I do quite easily.   But, then I spent a portion of my working life working with fibre glass and resins.


Where a lot of people make mistakes with polyester resins, is they think aw its a bit cold and add a touch more hardener to the resin and sometimes it goes off either too quick or doesn't go off at all.   So it is a bit more of a faff to work with.      I would, if you haven't worked with it too much before, practice on a smaller hull and if things do go wrong it is not too difficult to clean off.


Normally, on hulls, I will use Zpoxy on the outside and a polyester resin on the inside of the hull without any matting or anything on the inside.


John

[tonyH]

It's a great build that'll look superb on the wet stuff. On the subject of ease of covering, one thing you find on some of the Youtube videos of surfboard building is the use of a light coat of spray-mount to hold the mat in place while you apply the resin. Spay the dry hull, let it set and the woven mat can be laid on and re-positioned as needed. I've found that it just makes the whole thing a lot easier.
TonyH

[JimG]

hi Dan

he hull is 1:48 scale Castle Class Corvette.   I built it a while - I used roughly one box of the Zpoxy - the box has 2 bottles in it - the hardener and the resin which you mix in equal portions.


What I found and like about Zpoxy (even though it is expensive) is it is not too particular about the temperature that you are working in.   Also, it is quite easy to mix - one to one ratio - hardener and resin - with very little smell to it.


Where I think I went wrong though with this hull is I applied the resin first and then the matting over the top of the wet resin.  Then I tried to draw the resin through the matting by stappling.   When I watch people using it on aircraft (on YouTube) they were laying the matting on the wing and then putting the resin over and working it over with a stiff piece of plastic - the method I used required a lot of resin on this hull.

John

A way often used to reduce the amount of epoxy resin needed in skinning is to first use thinned resin. I find a roughly one to one mix of resin to thinner works well. Brush this onto the hull first, it will soak into the wood and when it sets it will seal the pores in the wood. Then cover with glass cloth and resin, either using a brush or an old credit card to spread the resin. None of the resin will now soak into the wood so less is needed, use just enough resin to wet the glass, if it looks white it needs more resin. Once it has set, give it a light sanding then another coat of resin, this should seal the cloth and give a smooth surface, some use a hair drier at this stage to help the resin flow. A third coat can be used after a light sanding if needed although a suitable primer should do the job.
Jim

[ballastanksian]

Hi Dan,


You are doing very well indeed considering your methods which the plate makers back in the day would be proud of (and slightly jealous that your plates don't weigh hundreds of pounds and are not as hot as hell! )


I agree with Chris, you have to pace yourself and remember that it's a hobby which sometimes comes to a juddering halt for 'an' amount of time. I always find it nice to have some side projects going, such as weapons or bits of superstructure so if you get a bit bored, or have to wait for some materials, you can get on with something else.

[Dan]

hi Dan


The dimensions of the hull I am in the process of building are - 63 inches long x 'can't remember the width' 


The hull is 1:48 scale Castle Class Corvette.   I built it a while - I used roughly one box of the Zpoxy - the box has 2 bottles in it - the hardener and the resin which you mix in equal portions.


What I found and like about Zpoxy (even though it is expensive) is it is not too particular about the temperature that you are working in.   Also, it is quite easy to mix - one to one ratio - hardener and resin - with very little smell to it.


Where I think I went wrong though with this hull is I applied the resin first and then the matting over the top of the wet resin.  Then I tried to draw the resin through the matting by stappling.   When I watch people using it on aircraft (on YouTube) they were laying the matting on the wing and then putting the resin over and working it over with a stiff piece of plastic - the method I used required a lot of resin on this hull.


You will find that some people can work with polyester resin like I do quite easily.   But, then I spent a portion of my working life working with fibre glass and resins.


Where a lot of people make mistakes with polyester resins, is they think aw its a bit cold and add a touch more hardener to the resin and sometimes it goes off either too quick or doesn't go off at all.   So it is a bit more of a faff to work with.      I would, if you haven't worked with it too much before, practice on a smaller hull and if things do go wrong it is not too difficult to clean off.


Normally, on hulls, I will use Zpoxy on the outside and a polyester resin on the inside of the hull without any matting or anything on the inside.


John

Thanks for the info John, I really appreciate it! That gives me a rough idea of how much resin I should look at ordering! I'm working in a unheated garage so Zpoxy might be the way forward. I plan on sealing the hull first, then once that dries apply the cloth and resin. I'll post updates as I do it 

[Dan]

It's a great build that'll look superb on the wet stuff. On the subject of ease of covering, one thing you find on some of the Youtube videos of surfboard building is the use of a light coat of spray-mount to hold the mat in place while you apply the resin. Spay the dry hull, let it set and the woven mat can be laid on and re-positioned as needed. I've found that it just makes the whole thing a lot easier.
TonyH

Thanks for the kind words Tony! That's a interesting tip! I take it the spray mount doesn't effect the bonding of the resin to the hull? I'll definitely look into it as trying to lay over 2m of cloth I imagine is going to be quite tricky and move when I don't want it to 


Cheers,


Dan

[Dan]

A way often used to reduce the amount of epoxy resin needed in skinning is to first use thinned resin. I find a roughly one to one mix of resin to thinner works well. Brush this onto the hull first, it will soak into the wood and when it sets it will seal the pores in the wood. Then cover with glass cloth and resin, either using a brush or an old credit card to spread the resin. None of the resin will now soak into the wood so less is needed, use just enough resin to wet the glass, if it looks white it needs more resin. Once it has set, give it a light sanding then another coat of resin, this should seal the cloth and give a smooth surface, some use a hair drier at this stage to help the resin flow. A third coat can be used after a light sanding if needed although a suitable primer should do the job.
Jim

Thanks for the advice Jim    I am going to try and seal the hull first


Cheers


Dan

[Dan]

Hi Dan,


You are doing very well indeed considering your methods which the plate makers back in the day would be proud of (and slightly jealous that your plates don't weigh hundreds of pounds and are not as hot as hell! )


I agree with Chris, you have to pace yourself and remember that it's a hobby which sometimes comes to a juddering halt for 'an' amount of time. I always find it nice to have some side projects going, such as weapons or bits of superstructure so if you get a bit bored, or have to wait for some materials, you can get on with something else.

Thank you for your kind words! I thought it might be easier than plank on frame given the size. They might not have been heavy but a few were a pain to try and fit tidy given the curvature.


Work and family do take up alot of my time so I'm finding work comes in waves. I have a good week or two on it then other commitments take priority. At the moment I struggle to find time for the main project let alone side projects   however there are alot of smaller items that need building that I might look at before the main hull and structure are completed. Like the landing craft for example.. we'll see.


Cheers,


Dan

[T888]

You have built a Nice clean hull there Dan.