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[zooma]

The problem is that there isn’t a gapless joint all the way round the contact area, so a degree of gap filling property is required.
I agree re sanding the ‘contact’ areas to provide a key and tack joining in place with ‘plastic weld’ where firm plastic to plastic contact is made, but then filling the rest of the joint with a flexible adhesive.

is 'Plastic Weld" a brand name?  ( I was looking for a "glue" - but is it a solvent liquid?).


Cant find anything of that name on eBay............


If it works for you (and can look as neat and tidy as yours) then I would like to try it on my Club 500 build.




I can buy Sticks Like S**t form my local Screwfix.

[Bustergrunt]

Plastic weld is great for things like the motor mount or rudder post, but just in case you may at some point need to remove the upper deck, then I use a silicon type adhesive which can be cut or gently prised apart. With the plastic weld it’s a permanent joint and can’t be ‘unwelded’ once applied…
If you need to put a patch on the inside of the hull i.e. after hitting a buoy (guess how I know) then you’ll appreciate being able to separate the hull and deck

[Martin (Admin)]

Realistically:

Maxi Fit ( Reply #159 ) but it doesn't seem to be available any more, well not under that name.
Deluxe Materials Plastic Kit Glue, seems an excellent substitute, albeit a lot thinner.
Also used Soudal FixALL crystal, for a large gap at the transom.
( Most of the mastics I tested only gave a mechanical bond, not a full chemical join, Soudal was the best of the bunch - Reply #190)

[zooma]

Thanks for the glue advice .


I would still like to find somewhere that I can buy some “plastic weld” from (if I can).


Any ideas?

[Martin (Admin)]

I would still like to find somewhere that I can buy some “plastic weld” from (if I can).

 
Me too, great stuff!   

Maybe good old Polystyrene cement is close too:
https://uk.humbrol.com/products/poly-cement-medium-tube-ae4021
https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/colors-accessories/glue/contacta.html
 

[Bustergrunt]

I use this stuff

[Ralph]

I've got the EMA plastic weld from Scoonie Hobbies in Kirkcaldy in the past.  Not been in for a while so I'm not sure if they still stock it, and their website is totally out of date but worth giving them a call perhaps? 01592 651792.


Ralph

[tonyH]

C'mon Bob, even A****n sell it. Jus' punch in "plastic weld"

[Martin (Admin)]

I don't use plastic weld ( dichloromethane ) much, I find it too tricky to use.
It evaporates very quickly, strong odour, zero gap filling.
I know you can dissolve scrap plastic in the bottle to thicken it up ... personally I want that all done for me,
hence the plastic Maxi Fit or Plastic Kit Glue.
 
 https://www.skylighter.com/blogs/how-to-make-fireworks/methylene-chloride-glue
 
 

[Bustergrunt]

I wouldn’t try and attach the whole upper deck using it, but to ‘spot weld’ the bow in place and at the stern, to hold it whilst a gap filling adhesive does the main task…also when plastic is dissolved in it and it is then used as a ‘potting’ agent i.e. around the prop shaft…it can cause the surrounding plastic to sag….again…ask me how I know 

[zooma]

C'mon Bob, even A****n sell it. Jus' punch in "plastic weld"

Yup got some - and free delivery too! (Amazon Prime member).

[zooma]

I use this stuff

........that's the one I have just bought.

[Martin (Admin)]

'Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.'

[ray123]

at the time in southend club there were a lot of club 500 builds ' Rodger cumbers from the club was man  for help and building advice on the club 500  at the time ''


 each were glued with different glues  from silicone 'not good! 
 


 gripfill 'kind of no nails building adhesive'  NO GOOD  it melted the hull   


 the best glue i found and Rodger recommended it  was deluxe  'super crylic'  it was bullet proof   survived a lot of bash & crashes  due to the glue having some flex
  https://deluxematerials.co.uk/collections/all-products/products/super-crylic