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1967Brutus

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Pimp my Microcosm...
« on: October 13, 2023, 08:02:43 pm »

Hello all,


Please let me introduce myself first, so y'all won't immediately assume I'm a nutcase wanting to pimp a Microcosm...


My name is Bert, I'm Dutch, I am a marine engineer by profession, 56 years old, and a modeller since about `12 years of age or so.
Mainly occupied myself with planes and helicopters, but the origins of the hobby, my first REAL RC model, was a boat ("Seal", by Krick from Germany, I'll never forget that one). After that, the virus of remote controlled flight really

Every now and then I venture into other fields such as RC cars, RC motorcycles, RC boats, even done a hoovercraft once, but usually only if such a model is a bit out of the ordinary: About 10 years ago for example, I found myself in the posession of 2 Fuji outboard engines, so I built a boat to run one of them. Big fun. Any kind of RC is OK, as long as it is powered by some sort of combustion process, and not a chemical reaction producing electrons.

About 5 years ago it was some weird project just to see if I could get a 5 cc fourstroke not only to run on gasoline, but to keep it at 1500 RPM and power a boat with it. That project will be revived in the near future by the way, but this thread won't be about that.

This thread will be about pimping my Microcosm M29 installation.

A few months ago I got that vibe again that I wanted to do something I hadn't done before, and this time it was STEAM. For no other reason than that I ran into one of those AliExpress ads selling them. It looked good, and not held back by any knowledge on the subject of model steam I decided to buy one and see where it would lead me.
Don't get me wrong, professionally, I am pretty well aquainted with steam and steam power, but I did not have the faintest clue whether these engines are any good, nor what actually makes a model steam plant "good" or "bad"....


Since the saddest thing on earth is an engine that has nothing to do, I went ahead and ordered a "Borkum" from Krick, to go along with it.


Well... after 2 or 3 weeks, the steam plant arrived. In one piece, undamaged, and, can't say anything else, looking extremely nice.

https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230606_140723-jpg.542757/

https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230606_144145-jpg.542758/

It was running within the hour:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sd-jruzKFM

It was not running all that bad, a bit rough, the Stephenson mechanism had an awful lot of play, and it went through one boiler filling awfully fast (about 10 minutes or so).

So I had my job cut out for me.

Step by step in the next posts.
 

   
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rhavrane

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2023, 08:55:31 pm »

Bonjour Bert and welcome here :-))

I also have this plant, https://youtu.be/TO16806-3pM and https://youtu.be/HW0RsauGFa8 in my tug "Vient de loin" and have enhanced it with important accessories to my opinion, a gas regulator, a RC safety gas valve and of course a whistle ok2  that I would kindly suggest you to add also to your steam plant.

Because of its 6,7 cm3 steam machine and small boiler, I plan to add yet an electric pump (enhanced Microcosm one) :

https://youtu.be/uW7OW941xG0 and https://youtu.be/FNy_x-RR9mE and https://youtu.be/j0yn0yaT5F0
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derekwarner

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2023, 09:02:51 pm »

Yes....welcome Bert.....being a Marine Engineer, this is right up your alley  %)  will look forward to you posts of a new vessel for the steam plant, and any advances that are suggested by our Friend Marcel [rhavane], re ...additional running time :-))


Derek
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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2023, 09:16:43 pm »

Be patient, guys, way ahead of you, the project is basically finished (took me about 2 months in total), I just wanted to make it a bit like a series.
I kept testing, observing, and expanding the installation as I went along. Right now, the engine has allready 42 runhours on it (the TX is equipped with a runhour counter that via telemetry detects "running condition", so that is actual runtime, not just the time the TX is switched on).

At this point in time, it's got a regulated burner, a feed pump, a condenser/feedwater pre heater, condensate recovery back into the feedwater reservoir (I don't think many people have that), it's got an automatic discharging oil-separator, wick-fed automatic lubrication, and basically it has become a "light burner and forget" installation.
I am getting about 50 minutes (normal practical manouvering) on a single charge of 50 grammes of gas and 350 ml (12 oz) of feedwater.
30+ minutes from the same on full speed non stop.
Boiler feedrate is linked to the steemvalve via programmed curve in the TX, which will keep level within 5 mm accurate for at least those 50 minutes.

The fun was going to be to take one subject at a time...
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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2023, 09:19:12 pm »

Bonjour Bert and welcome here :-))

I also have this plant, https://youtu.be/TO16806-3pM and https://youtu.be/HW0RsauGFa8 in my tug "Vient de loin" and have enhanced it with important accessories to my opinion, a gas regulator, a RC safety gas valve and of course a whistle ok2  that I would kindly suggest you to add also to your steam plant.

Because of its 6,7 cm3 steam machine and small boiler, I plan to add yet an electric pump (enhanced Microcosm one) :

https://youtu.be/uW7OW941xG0 and https://youtu.be/FNy_x-RR9mE and https://youtu.be/j0yn0yaT5F0


Hi Marcel,


we chatted the other day a bit on YouTube about that servo-feedpump you posted.
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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2023, 03:31:29 am »

Part 2:


In reality, would I make this a chronological report, it would have all appearance I have been modifying, testing, experimenting left and right, a bit helter skelter and all over the place. That probably would lead to a difficult to follow and long thread.

So I am going to try and keep the subjects grouped together.

I mentioned in my introduction that I am a marine engineer, but when at home in my shore leave, I have surprisingly few resources, tools, machines and fabricating possibilities. I just am not that kind of guy that has a tool for everything. Too expensive and too bothersome. Too time-consuming also.
I did all this, basically, "the McGyver way".

Mechanically and technically, the following two alterations are the ONLY two mods that I did TO the engine:

One of the first things I noticed was that there is a LOT of clearance in the actuating mechanism of the Stephenson reversing gear.
The lever has a prong that hooks into a clevis, and the prong is 2 mm wide, the slot in the clevis is 3 mm, to allow for angular movement.
The solution, IMHO, would be if the lever would have been fitted with a 3 mm diameter ball.
The solution is easy, even without specialized tools: I took a length of 3 mm outer diameter (2 mm inner) brass tubing availlable in any decent modelling shop, cut a length of 3 mm of that tube (Brass tube is very easy to cut clean, by taking any sharp knife (hobby knife, potato peeler knife, pocket knife) and rolling the tubing between the knife edge and a flat surface (like your building table).

Regardless of how you cut the tube, a length equal to the outer diameter is what you want.
Force the piece of tubing over the prong, and file the tubing into a ball shape. This also does not require too much "sculpting skills", just rounding it off and checking whether the ball allows the necessary freedom of movement. If you happen to have taken off too much material, the failed piece is easily removed, and a new 3 mm piece is easily cut and placed.
Once to your satisfaction, lubricate with a bit of EP2 grease or similar, and it will last virtually indefinitely.
This is the best picture I can provide right now, apologies for the less optimal quality. It looks blurry, but it isn't, that's white grease
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230607_155906-1-jpg.542866/
The elimination of this excessive clearance had a remarkable positive effect on the running behaviour of the engine.

The other modification unfortunately I do not have any pics of, but like many people, I noticed that the engine consumes a LOT of steam and had one "dead point" in the forward running direction where it would not self-start. That invariably happened with the forward piston in TDC.
Since the engine would start in reverse in that position, that means there is an issue with the slide valve of the rear cylinder, because the piston in TDC is not active.

So I opened the valve box and found that the slide valve did not move freely.
The control rod has a block shaped part to it that engages between four prongs on the slide valve. There should be no or minimal clearance between block and prongs (otherwise valve timing gets sloppy) but there should also not be any binding, or the valve won't seal properly on the mirror.
A few strokes with a keyfile solved that, but while I had the valve out, I noticed that the sliding surface showed machining marks, while the mirror appeared to be polished. Wow... how am I going to manage that, with no specialized tools? Dang...

What I did, was place a piece of 1200 grit waterproof sandpaper on a mirror (mirrors are flat, aren't they?) and made two figures of eight with the valve over the grit, just to break the surface.
Then out with the sandpaper, and enter Cif cream cleaner, which also is slightly abrasive. It took me 20 minutes to get a smooth finish with no visible machining marks.
This cured the dead spot, the engine now started without any issues, and also reduced steam consumption, but not as much as I hoped, so I did the front slide valve as well, same procedure.

Steam consumption is now acceptable although, let's face it, due to the fairly wide clearance between cylinders and pistons, this engine is never going to be a miracle of efficiency unless it will get new pistons. And not only do I lack the possibilities to do that, I also absolutely did not fancy disassembling the entire engine.

That's it, as far as the engine goes. Taking out a clearance, and polishing the valves. These mods can be done at basically any skill level with the most basic of tools and materials.
The ball-link in the reversing gear is a given: these engines come from the factory with that flaw.I did that mod IIRC the second day I ran the engine.
Whether the slides need addressing, depends on the individual engine and the quality control it received. From what I gathered, some run smooth and seal up well, others don't. Mine didn't, so this was how I solved it. It took some operating time, and the boat was already being run on open water when the high water consumption started bothering me most. The dead point (engine sometimes not starting immediately) did not bother me too much, but in one of those rare epiphanies, the idea caught that those two might be connected, and it turns out they were.

Now my fingertips hurt, so maybe later today I'll continue with the next mod.


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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2023, 08:48:14 am »

So... I slept, and woke up with fingertips that were at best a bit tender, time for the next issue of this "McGyver saga".


Lubrication...


The first runs on the bench allready told me that I did not like the intended lubrication method (oil cups on the main bearing caps, and "just squirt some oil on everything else that moves) for one bit: First of all, those tiny oil cups held their oil for maybe 5 minutes, tops, second they were not easy to fill without spilling, squirting oil on everything else (crossheads, rods, eccentrics, and "Stephenson movement") was not only messy in general, it also would present issues when the engine would be installed in a boat.
A typical run would consume half a syringe full of oil (2,5 ml or such) and the bench quickly became drenched in oil.


Rubbish, unacceptable, operating a steam engine like that is NOT going to be fun, if a 10~15 minute run causes a half hour cleaning session.

So I opted for a wick feeder with 7 tubes for the machine (3 main bearings, 2 crossheads, and 2 excenter-sets).
In practice, this results in a minute oil dosage but this has proven to be fully adequate. At least, 42 runhours (at the time of writing) without deterioration IMHO, for a brass machine (usually wearing much faster than engines made from other materials) is proof enough.

The way I see it, lubricating metal parts requires way less oil than anyone would think, as long as that oil is being fed continuously and where it is needed. Squirting a drop of oil on a lubrication spot, most of it runs off without ever doing anything useful and the microlitre that reaches the spot, does not get replenished.

How did I go about?
I built a small oil tank with 7 wick holders. I am a horrible sheet metal worker, and in general a bit of a "quick and dirty" builder, so the tank is downright ugly, but here it is:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230615_073353-1-jpg.543542/
a 10 ml filling wicked out in about 36 hours, leaving the tank bonedry and getting every last drop there where it counts.

The tank was placed in a trestle, a bit higher than the top of the machine, because the wicks only bring the oil to the outlets of the tank, but the oil has to travel by gravity through the delivery tubes.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230620_203342-1-jpg.544244/
I made those tubes out of 2 mm OD brass tubing (1 mm ID). Annealing this tubing allows for tying knots in it without kinking.


For crosshead lubrication, I had no other option than to drill one oiler hole in each guide, just above the TDC. Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of this.
The oil supplied to the croisshead guide spreads around the entire guide due to the rather violent movement of the crossheads and their cylindrical shape, then trickles down to the crosshead pin, and from there along the conrods, all the way to the bigends. Since both the crossheads, crosshead pins and bigends still don't rattle, lubrication is sufficient here.


For the main bearings, three tubes are bent to end up in the oil cups, and they are kept in place by short pieces of heatshrink tubing.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230620_203357-1-jpg.544245/
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230620_203405-1-jpg.544246/


The eccentrics are lubricated by cutting the ends of the delivery pipes slanted, and letting them end up such that the control rods wipe off the arriving drops. The oil then flows down along the rods to the eccentrics.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230621_001654-1-jpg.544272/
Only one rod picks up the oil, but because of the tube ending up "between"the rods, both eccentric discs receive oil.

The wick feeder is filled with oil about 10 minutes before the first ignition of the burner (the capillary action needs a bit of time before the oil starts flowing), and pulled empty before going home again. During an afternoon of steaming, the drop in level is barely noticable. The only way I know for sure that it works, is that the squeeze-bottle was not as full as it was a month ago :D

The oil I am using is a full synthetic 10W40 motorcycle oil: No particular reason other than that it was what I had on hand. But given the dope package those oils can handle a large range of temperatures and are fairly able to deal with a bit of moisture (motorcycle engines, especially the older aircooled ones, tend to run overcooled and the oils need to be able to cope with condensation in the crankcase more so than oils for car engines). But basically, any machine oil will do.

In order to reduce the mess to clean up after use even further, I take a few leaves of toiletpaper, and roll them into some sort of tampon, that I place around the engine. Works well, is cheap and widely availlable (everybody has toiletpaper somewhere), and easy to replace.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/img-20230623-wa0001-1-jpg.544492/

The arches of the Stephenson I lubricate with grease, initially a simple EP2 grease, but recently I found out that mixing this grease with 20% steam cylinder oil not only reduces the paste-like consistency a bit, it also makes the grease stickier and it makes the grease creep better into crevices (like between the pin and its bore).
Greasing the arches is frugal. I think I used about 0,5ml in 20 hours op runtime


I replaced the stock displacement oiler for the glass one that Microcosm offered. For no other reason than that I prefer to be able to check content visually. The needle valve is a bonus, but does not work all that precise, and I found out over time that other factors have a much greater effect on lubrication quantity. I will get into that in a later episode.

Well, that was the part about lubrication. Personally, I think this work contributed the most to how this engine functions.
I am 100% sure that my fabricating skills are among the ugliest here on this forum, but for me fuchtion over form every time.
I hope people can derive their own plans from this info, but for crying out loud, please make it prettier than my contraptions ;)

My fingers hurt again, bt maybe later today I can type some more.


       

       
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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2023, 05:32:10 pm »

Next step was the burner control.

A decent burner control should ideally follow the steam demand as closely as possible, and this has, especially for this boiler (fitted with a steam dryer or very optimistically also called "superheater") certain advantages.


A burner control working along the on/off or "min/max" principle, will lead to a strong variation of heat supply to the steam dryer even if steam demand is constant. That in turn will lead to variations in moisture content of the steam, which will affect both the functioning of the displacement oiler, as well as the lubrication conditions in the engine itself.

A proportional burner control will have the advantage that when steam demand varies (and thus velocity in the dryer), the heat supply will follow fairly close keeping steam properties more constant.
In order to control the burner, I purchased a Regner gas valve. Pretty expensive but a decent piece of kit, and necessary anyway, since I want to be able to control the fire in case of emergency.


Initially I did not have a pressure sensor, and I thought I would not need one, because steam pressure and temperature are very closely related, so I figured measuring the temperature of the steam would suffice. I had temperature probes and the telemetry stuff availlable (which, for FrSky equipment is absolutely reasonably priced anyway).
The Taranis allows for a value measured over telemetry, to directly control a servo without any operator input, so a proportional control function is very easily progged (literally less than a 5 minute job), and with the steam tables for saturated steam at hand, the values to aim for were easily determined.

Well... I was right.... and also horribly WRONG about that. The principle absolutely works, and I have operated the system for several hours like that.
What caused trouble was that I can only measure temperature on the outside (I cannot fit a probe INSIDE the boiler), so there is a fair bit of deviation between read-out and actual temperature. What is worse, is that wind and weather strongly influence this deviation, and no amount of insulation of the probe remedied this.

So... I had no choice but to get me a pressure sensor (common automotive stuff, 10~15 Euro on AliExpress or similar outlets). Aivallable in several ranges and they usually have an output of 0,5 to 4,5 Volt for the 0 to 100% range. So all that is needed is an also very cheap telemetry voltage converter.
Stuff you can buy for peanuts, and there are hobbyists out there everywhere that can make those in the blink of an eye. That is how I got mine, buddy that does electronics as a hobby made one for me.

So now I have a pressure read-out on theTX, that can directly control a servo, with a freely programmable setpoint and proportional band.
In my case, 1,55 bar gives me pilot fire, 1,45 bar gives me full fire, and anything in between in proportion.
Here is me testing the set-up. The sensor is sensitive enough to trigger a full 0-100% response by as little as the pressure of just blowing into it.
Sorry for the dutch language.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEbtnk4DzS4

All that was needed now was to connect the pressure sensor to an unused appendage port of the boiler, and we have an automated proportional burner control.
The TX is configured such that there is a 3-position selector switch that gives "Off"-"Manual"-"Auto", and a knob for burner position in manual mode, used for firing up from cold.
Here is the system in operation, again sorry for the dutch comments, if you turn up the volume, in the background you can hear the engine accelerating/decellerating, and the response of the burner is visible in the display of the TX.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wa0PhowMc0c

Now of course, a mechanical pressure operated gas controller also is an option, it does not really matter. But if possible I would recommend to select a controller with an as small as possible proportional band. This will result in a faster burner response and smaller pressure variations.
Because a constant pressure (and thus temperature) is advantageous for the running conditions off the engine, and in case of a steam dryer, a proportionally controlled burner is even MORE advantageous because the steam saturation is more constant. Better lubrication and less crud in the oil separator.
If the boiler does not have a steam dryer, then a proportional control is absolutely NO better than a simple on/off control.

OK... my fingers start hurting again
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Bunkerbarge

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2023, 10:25:35 am »

You can buy temperature sensors that measure internally.  As you have discovered there is way too much lag in using an external temperature reading to determine pressure.


Clevedon sell a sensor separately as well as part of their Electronic Gas regulator Unit:


http://www.clevedonsteam.co.uk/products.html#thumb


As does Denes Designs:


https://www.denesdesign.co.uk/home



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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2023, 10:49:07 am »

So...


Basically only one subject left, that of "how to extend operation time"...


It was pretty clear from the beginning that even with the improvements to the engine, operating time was fairly short: 15 minutes at best in reality, and for that I had to control myself and use the throttle fairly conservative.


So I first wanted to install an engine driven pump as offered by Microcosm. I ordered it, received it, but heck, by the time I got around to it I realized that this was not a plug&play option, and what was more, adjusting the feedrate was going to be an issue: I simply did not see how I was going to arrange that. It would entail either constructing an excenter with an adjustable stroke, or an adjustable bypass/return valve, additional piping, possibly a servo, and that was more effort and investment than I was willing to make.


So I looked around on the internet and found the Regner electric pump with speedcontrol. I will get back on that pump because there's something horribly wrong with that thing quality wise that I'd like to warn everybody of. But that is for later.


In itself, the pump is straightforward and I installed the pump. I posted this pic before.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/img-20230623-wa0001-1-jpg.544492/


The next problem was going to be a feedwater tank: There was nothing commercially availlable that would make any sense, at least not to me.
As I said in my introduction, I am a marine engineer, and somehow "stuck in a certain train of thought" when it comes to operating steamsystems:
The Microcosm boiler has a steamable quantity of about 180 ml (6 oz) of water. I can deal with that. You boil the water, and when its gone its gone.

Things change when you add a tank. In my mind it suddenly becomes a "system" and in my mind, systems are operated a certain way, you don't deviate from that. My brain is conditioned by 30 years of dillidallying around in engine rooms. When one operates a boiler with a feed system, then that feed system has to run continuous and the operating time becomes the time it takes for the feed tank to be empty. A feedwater pump being switched off while a boiler is kept running is a no-no to me, and a feedwater pump being allowed to suck air against a pressurized boiler, even worse.

Call me silly, call me autistic (I am, so don't feel shy), but that was how it was going to be... A tank, a pump,  boiler at constant level, and the operating time determined by the tank reaching low level.



I am, as you all have seen in the pics of the wick feed lubricator, a horribly poor metal sheet worker, so making a feedwater tank myself would not be very succesful.
Regner (at the timethe only supplier I was familiar with that could deliver in reasonable time, because in early August I was a total newbie in the world of model steam) only had a cylindirical 300 ml tank that would not fit in the boat, and a rectangular tank that would fit, but only held about 75 ml of water... So my autistic brain hit a snag: If the boiler has a steamable content of 180 ml, but a feedpump set-up would only be 70 ml of "consumable water", I would be going to LOOSE operating time.
Heck, I was fully aware that I could run the feedpump as long as the tank lasted, then continue emptying the boiler and I would gain maybe 6 or 7 minutes of operating time, but... To me, that would be a total turn-off. A bandaid, a non-solution. A patch. I could not envision deriving joy from that type of "solution".

I searched high and low in all kinds of non modelling related shops for suitable larger containers I could adapt, but no luck.
So I decided to make the feed tank out of plywood. Sounds silly, but... I normally build planes and such, I knew I could knock a tank out in mere hours, and to basically any shape I wanted. Waterproofing is easy: one or two coats of pore filler and sealing it up with the type of polyurethane laquer as used for hardwood flooring.

I ended up with a wedgeshaped tank, 12 cm long, 7 cm wide narrowing to 5 cm, and 5,5 cm in depth, theoretical almost 400 ml.
Open top with anti-sloshing baffles, practical tests showed it would safely hold 375 ml in actual running conditions...
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230623_200420-1-jpg.544502/

So.... NOW we're talking... this brought the boat to about 25 minutes of operating time, 30 if I took it really slow...

By this time, I started realizing that feeding from a tank will introduce dissolved gasses in the boiler, and these non-condensable gasses will end up in the level glass eventually, but... the Microcosm boiler has its feedwater connection at the bottom of the level glass, so this immediately presented the problem that as soon as the feed is in operation, boiler level becomes hard to read.
This issue with dissolved gasses can be reduced significantly by keeping an eye on water quality, I might spend an episode on that later, but for now the problem was there and had to be dealt with.


What good is it to have a controllable pump, but no means to visually check the level?
I solved this by installing a blow-off valve in the top of the glass.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230930_101117-1-jpg.555012/
The discharge line of this valve ends up at the bottom of the feed tank. Initially I was a bit worried that this might lead to accidents with the steam pressure blowing out the contents of the feedwater tank, but practical tests showed this to be a non-issue: Even with only 1 cm of water in the feed tank, and the blow-off valve fully open at full boiler pressure (max 2 bar in my case) the heat absorption of the feedwater is so strong that steam does not even reach the surface of the water. It's 100% safe.
As it is right now, I fire up the boiler from cold with this valve open, during warm up the air escapes (with a funny "gloop gloop" sound) and as soon as steam is raised the sound changes to the percolating noise of a coffeemaker. Very convenient.


Enough about the level glass...


By now I had achieved an operating time of about 25 minutes before I had to come in to refill the feedwater tank, which due to the open construction could be done "on the fly" with the boat in the water. The gas tank allowed for about 50~55 minutes of operation (including the firing up from cold) on a charge of 60 grammes of propane/butane mix.
Although now absolutely acceptable, I still wasn't really satisfied with the fact that I had to come in for water while obviously the fuel quantity allowed for much longer operating time, and overthinking things, I also thought that feeding a boiler with cold water is not the most eficient way of feeding a boiler. But what good is it to save on fuel when you don't have the water to evaporate with it?

Hmmm.... How if...?

How if I would utilize the exhaust steam to pre-heat the boiler feedwater? It would improve the operation of the boiler (in more than just "lower fuel consumption" by the way), but it would ALSO produce condensate. Condensate that MIGHT be usable for return to the feedwater tank, thus extending operating time, right?

A quick calculation showed that the condensate generated by the pre-heating of the feedwater alone, would yield at best 15% of the water feedrate.
That's a simple calculation, water per gramme requires a certain amount of heat to raise temperature from ambient to 100 deg C, and condensing steam delivers a certain amount of heat per gramme of condensed steam, and that ratio is roughly 1:7
Since we're talking here about a feedrate in the order of magnitude of 10 ml/min, the heat dissipation for preheating the feedwater is approx 50 Watt.
and a condensate return of maye 1,5~2ml/min
Disapointingly low yield. Would it be worth it?
Then it struck me: the condenser/preheater would be a shell to which steam is supplied, with a coil running through it conducting the feedwater. But the shell on the outside has exposed surface, dissipating heat to the ambient air.
A quick google search on the subject of radiator heat transfer combined with the expected dimensions of the condenser, hinted at a radiated heat of approx 80 Watt, which would probably generate another 2~2,5 ml/min.

OK... now we're talking, because that would reduce feedwater consumption from roughly 10 ml/min to 6 ml/min, and a quick estimate it would reduce fuel consumption by about 10% as well... Meaning I should be able to extend times between water refill, and possibly reduce the filling charge of the gas tank to 50 grammes.

The condenser was made with a coil of 1 metre copper tube 3 mm OD, fitted in a piece of vacuum cleaner tube, capped with two discs of aluminium, held together by a threaded rod.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230929_194756-1-jpg.554978/
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230929_200229-1-jpg.554979/
Since exhaust steam can contain traces of cylinder oil, a condensate cleaner was built into the feedwater tank.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230924_093948-1-jpg.554374/
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230924_155120-1-jpg.554435/
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230924_155126-1-jpg.554436/
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230924_155131-1-jpg.554437/
The condensate cleaner consists of a compartment of approx 25 ml, with a dividing bulkhead that forces the condensate to pass underneath.
The large side of the division is where the condensate enters, and in this part, oil absorbing material is floating on the water.
To make absolutely sure, a single sheet of oil absorbing cloth is floating on the feedwater tank as well.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230925_110235-1-jpg.554563/
Condensate enters, possible oil traces are trapped in the absorbing material, water passes underneath the divider, and flows over into the feedwater tank.

The first test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqYJdb_I7AM

This test showed that the single steam/condensate exhaust was a mistake, because the condensate ended up where it was intended, but the escaping steam caused unwanted condensation everywhere else in the boat.


WOW! First test at varying power settings (emulating normal use as good as possible) immediately resulted in an operating time of 50 minutes with some gas and water to spare...
NOW we're talking...

But I still had to solve the issue with steam all over the boat. First step: a separate exhaust.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230930_013649-1-jpg.554999/
This did not solve the problem, it relocated it, because yes, the steam vented out, but it also sprayed condensate drops everywhere, so the boat still got wet all over. So a moisture trap with drain back to the feedwater tank was fitted. I don't have a pic, only a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxztgtuN-ZI
and now that problem was solved as well.
The white "cap" on the condensate drain is an orifice, intended to allow condensate to pass but limit the escaping steam to a minimum.
It also serves to make the outflow of condensate a bit less abrupt, giving the filter more time to absorb any oil traces.

But... although I had clean condensate for about 30 minutes, then the condensate turned turbid and dirty, too dirty for the condensate cleaner to keep up... Damn, what happened?
I found out that the oil separator vessel as supplied with the machine, would be full after approx 30 minutes, and after that, oil would pass the separator and enter the condenser. I first tried to reduce condensation in the oil separator by thermally isolating it:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231003_230559-1-jpg.555625/
This did NOT make any measurable difference. So I had to figure out a way to remove this water "automatically".
I messed around a bit with designing a float valve, but the numbers are not there: in the dimensions availlable (max diameter 7 mm) and the materials and methods at hand, it turned out impossible to make a float with sufficient displacement to actually float...

If difficult and complicated solutions won't work, the only option is to go simple, and I solved this by simply fitting a 2 mm OD (1 mm ID) copper tube in the oil separator, all the way to the bottom.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231004_171543-1-jpg.555648/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUNN3FOJzQM&t=18s
(in the pic, the tube is still 3 mm OD, flattened at the end, as demonstration of principle only, the tube is now 2 mm OD, and the receptacle has been replaced with a stainless steel bottom part of a coco shaker)
This tube allows the very dirty crap that collects in the oil separator to discharge to a larger collecting reservoir. Now the oil separator stays dry inside, the condensate remains clean, and the condensate cleaner easily lasts 10 or more operating hours.
the receptacle for the crud from the oil separator suffices for about 2 hours.

Technically, this is what I have done to the installation.
I started with 10~15 minutes operating time, a waterconsumption of around 700~800 ml/hr and a fuelconsumption of 75 grammes per hour (average values, give or take, applying to average running conditions), and ended up with 50 minutes of operating time, about 400 ml of water per hour and 55 grammes of fuel per hour.

I grouped these posts by subject, but in reality everything went kriss-kross, all at the same time and in WAY more time than it took me to write these posts. I actually learned a LOT, despite having been involved in operatiing steam plants professionally, for many many years.
I freely admit that my "professional deformation" caused me to do things different than probably 99% of model steamers, and I am not sure if any of this is useful for other steam enthousiasts.
For me, the experimenting, the testing, the overthinking, the solving puzzles and the search for ways to achieve results with absolute minimum means, the "McGyvering" so to say, absolutely was worth it.

I ended up with an extremely userfriendly, easy to operate and reliable set-up despite the use of Micky Mouse methods and materials.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NY6Gr5_aiw

A bit outside the scope of the subject of "modifications" but still maybe interesting for some, is the subject of "feedwater quality" and the experiences and observations I gathered in that respect while doing this project.

I might post about that as well.
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2023, 11:09:44 am »

You can buy temperature sensors that measure internally.  As you have discovered there is way too much lag in using an external temperature reading to determine pressure.


Clevedon sell a sensor separately as well as part of their Electronic Gas regulator Unit:


http://www.clevedonsteam.co.uk/products.html#thumb


As does Denes Designs:


https://www.denesdesign.co.uk/home


Oh, that certainly is an option.

But what can I say? A few months ago, when the burner control was the issue of the day, I was not aware of what could be had commerically and what not.
Nor was I looking.
My attitude towards this project, from the beginning, was more that of "what can be done with minimal means?" as opposed to "let's solve issues by spending money".
Please don't get me wrong, that is not meant derogatory in any way, towards anybody. Because in fact, I can afford to buy stuff, and there is nothing wrong with buying fancy stuff (I do that all the time for other hobbies) but it simply was not the starting point of this project. I wanted to see how far I would get on my own, with my (for this particular subject) limited skills and options. I bought what I HAD to buy (pressure sensor, feedpump, blow-off valve for level glass, gas regulating valve, and the Regner fitwork (cutting rings, capnuts etc).
I on purpose refrained from buying level control systems and pressure controllers and such. I wanted to see how far I could get with clever programming, and simple mods doable by anyone regardless of availlable tools and materials, regardless of skill levels.


But I have to comment on the lag: Actually, the measurement was much faster than I expected, and without issues fast enough to keep the pressure under control within very reasonable limits. The issue was not the lag, but the fact that external factors (mainly wind) affected the measurement,
In light wind conditions (<2Bft) Going downwind the boiler would stabilize on a different pressure compared to going against the wind, for example. Anything over 2 Bft, I had to switch to manual.
Under testing conditions in the bathtub (no wind) the temperature measurement simply functioned, no comments.


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Things I liked and things I did not like one bit...
« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2023, 10:20:12 am »

On the Microcosm set-up there are a few things I really like.

-The hand operated valves work well, close off properly and do not leak through the glands.
-Ditto for the glands on the engine. There is a bit of cylinder oil passing the glands of the pistonrods and valve pushrods, but no water or steam, basically everything stays bone dry.
-The gas tank has a safe capacity of 60 grammes of gas, which allows for well over an hour of operation, provided the engine is optimized and feedwater allows.
-The engine is fairly strong, on a mere 1,5 bar working pressure it easily pulls a 60 mm fourbladed prop, the boiler is rated for 4 bar (safety valve setting) and my estimate is that on 3 bar it will have very little problems with a 75 mm prop.
-The engine, once broken in and optimized, runs extremely smooth and silent, with a very wide RPM range, relatively vibration free.


The things I did NOT like:


-The gas valve on the tank is very unsuitable for controlling the fire. A separate (remote controlled) valve basically is a must not because of safety but from a practical point of view.
-The oil separator is too small: it works more or less OK for the duration of one boiler filling, BUT... that is only if you empty the separator after warming through the engine, because the first start of a cold engine will fill the separator to at least 1/3rd if not 1/2 of its practical capacity.
In itself not bad, but totally worthless if the engine is fitted with a feedpump for extended operation. Emptying the separator with the system operational, requires removing a hot plug, and messing about with a large syringe drawing up very dirty water close to boiling point. Not the safest of operations. Then again on the plus side: WHEN empty, the separating function is excellent, no ifs or buts.
-Another thing I did not like was how the boiler is attached to the baseplate by non-adjustable tie-down straps. The fit is loose and the boiler can shift a bit in fore/aft direction.
-The fit of the steamdryer/superheater assembly in the fluegas tube is a bit loose as well, although this does not lead to any problems.



Nothing to do with the Microcosm, but...


As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I fitted a Regner feedwater pump.
This pump basically is a servo (a cheap one at that) with a crank instead of a conventional servo arm, and a plunger pump attached to it.


Nothing out of the ordinary.

What Regner did to the servo, is basically disconnect the mechanical link between output shaft and feedback potentiometer. This effectively turns the standard servo electronics into a crude form of ESC.


The issue is with the servo they selected: it is a fairly strong servo with metal gears, and one of the first things I noted was that the thing was pretty noisy, and the output shaft wobbled suspiciously under load. The picture on their webshop shows a Hitec Servo for this purpose, but in reality, what I received was equipped with a different brand. Cheaper.

After approximately 5 operating hours, the servo started to make funny noises and within 10 minutes it died. Damn it!

Fair is fair, had I sent it in, I would have received a new pump, because Regner takes service and customer satisfaction pretty seriously.
I reported the issue to them AFTER I had opened the thing myself, including pics, and they STILL said they would replace it for free.

but I was a bit limited in time (at that time I had to go back to sea wintin the next week) and I did not want to spend the last 10 days of my holiday without a functioning toy project. So I opened the servo to see what I could do.


Turned out the motor was dead, and well, that is something that can happen. I had no real issues with that.
What I absolutely did NOT like, was the fact that the servo was fitted with Nylon slide bearings of a standard ball bearing size.
This is the output shaft with the slide bearing in the position on the shaft that it has in assembled condition:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230704_085312-1-jpg.545486/
Does not look bad, but...
This is the shaft how it runs in that bearing:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230704_085325-1-jpg.545487/

The serrated part of the shaft, is where the bearing runs, in other words: there is basically a grater continuously running in an unlubricated plastic slide bearing.

Even if the motor had not broken down, this construction would not have been very durable.


What I also did not like was the fact that the crank did not have internal serration, it was just an undersized smooth bore forced onto the output shaft with no other means of attachment but the tight fit.
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20230704_092356-1-jpg.545490/


Now I can do what Regner did, and I had plenty servos laying around, so I took an old Futaba S3001 (no metal gears, BUT ballbearinged), opened it up and cut out the stroke limiter so the servo could turn continuously, and also removed the potentiometer-drive.
The original crank was not usable on the S3001, but a simple 1,5 mm hole drilled in a servodisc at the correct distance solved that.
Fit between mounting plate and servo is not optimal, but this set-up has not given me issues in now close to 30 or 35 runhours.


Dont get me wrong, the bottom line is still in the plus: The set-up as I have it now, is extremely easy to operate, runs as smooth as silk, has an excellent operating time and I had a blast "developing" this little chinese machine.
Underneath the shortcomings, a true little gem is hidden. And this gem can be uncovered without any significant machining skills or metal working equipment.
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #12 on: October 16, 2023, 04:30:19 pm »

Quite fascinating and very interesting, well done. One thing you may want to consider, if you haven't already, is to increase the prop diameter, pitch or blade number. In my experience steam engines like to turn over with fairly low revs for the best performance and duration. I have two steam models, Canopus 1899 - a Victorian battleship at about 35 pounds in weight and 53 inches long and Velox a 1904 early destroyer about 65 inches long but of course very narrow. (Both on U-tube).


Both use Cheddar Models Puffin boilers - Canopus the mk 1 with return flue. First sailings were very disappointing with only about 15 minutes sailing and slow speed. By degreed I ended up with much larger props with 4 blades and the speed doubled as did the duration to 30 mins which I'm happy with.


Simplistically I tend to think a boiler has only a certain number of bites of steam. If the engine rotates fast you suffer poor duration as you use the bites very fast. If the engine rotate slowly than the duration goes up and if the prop combination is right the speed increases as well. Canopus uses an original Puffin double acting oscillating unit and turns two 45mm 4 blade props.


Velox uses a mk 2 Puffin boiler with no return flue so volume wise takes about 40% more water. The engine is my own designed in line twin double acting oscillator which works well and I get about 25 mins max sailing, mostly because I tend to go at full speed so the bites of steam are used much faster.


Cheers and happy steaming!


Geoff
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2023, 04:41:56 pm »

So Bert says......."The gas valve on the tank is very unsuitable for controlling the fire. :o


Could I suggest Bert, that the gas tank valve offered here is literally an isolation valve for gas ....and has no compensating design as built for regulating steam to the engine  >>:-(


Derek
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #14 on: October 16, 2023, 06:11:07 pm »

:D you could suggest that, and you would be completely correct... It's a stop valve (isolating valve) and I simply ran out of words, since English is not my first language.

But given that Microcosm offers the engine without burner/pressure controller and offers this as an option, it could be expected that the valve at least has some controlling properties.

At least that's what I expected, and that's why I mentioned it.
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2023, 06:22:29 pm »

Quite fascinating and very interesting, well done. One thing you may want to consider, if you haven't already, is to increase the prop diameter, pitch or blade number.


Yup... that's what I did indeed. The prop supplied with "Borkum" is a 55 mm fourbladed brass prop of less than optimal quality.
I replaced it with a 60 mm Raboesch #147 (fourbladed prop) whih has a much better efficiency.
RPM dropped (a bit) and speed at the very least remained the same or even improved a little bit.
The 60 mm is really the largest I can fit (clearance to the hull maybe 1~1,5 mm) but functions well and indeed I do have the distinct impression this also played a role in reducing steam consumption.
Unfortunately I had the condenser first and the prop after that, and I cannot disable the condenser so it was not possible for me to determine effect separately.
One thing I did notice was that with the original 55 mm prop, upon giving full ahead the engine went to peak RPM and that RPM did not seem to increase with the boat reaching "terminal velocity".
With the 60 mm Raboesch, I have the distinct impression that with increasing speed the rpm ever so slightly rises, which to me suggests prop, engine and hull are fairly matched, since this usually also is what happens in real-life propulsion installations.

For those that haven't peeked around on my channel, this is a recent outing on the pond (after appr six minutes the boat can be seen from the pond side)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO0wN5Nth-A
From 3:58 to appr 4:15 it can be observed that on giving full steam, RPM rises with boat speed, and sags during the full rudder turn (full steam kept) to rise again on the straight run.
From 9:05 till 9:28 is a full speed run.

Cheers and happy steaming!Geoff


Thanks, I most definitely will! Just home from a 55 min run on the pond, 350 ml of water and 48 grammes of gas through the funnel, the runhour counter ending at 44,9 runhours. :D
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #16 on: October 17, 2023, 11:14:05 am »

The isolating valve should in theory be capable of some gas control but in practice it tends to be on or off (I have one in Velox) but that's exactly what I wanted as if I foul some debris in the pond I can turn the gas off so no damage to the model if it runs out of water.


In Canopus I don't have room for the valve so I use a much cruder system. Canopus also has a blowlamp burner so as an emergency measure I use a car windscreen washer motor to spray water onto the burner which puts it our every time with a nice puff of steam out the funnel so I know the burner is out. The downside is the model fills with gas but as there is no ignition source its just not a problem, besides better than watching the model burn!


In my experience if a boiler runs out of water, its not the end of the world as a single flame cannot generate enough heat to un silver solder that mass of copper, its just not possible. I checked with Cheddar Models years ago when this happened to me.


What will typically happen is that the lagging will charcoal and may eventually catch fire which can spread to the model and destroy it, particularly if the boiler is completely enclosed within the model. I speak from experience! If it does happen don't touch the boiler, let it cool down for about 5 hours and for gods sake don't be tempted to fill it with water otherwise you will scald your self as the water flashes into superheated steam.


Cheers


Geoff
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #17 on: October 17, 2023, 02:31:59 pm »


What will typically happen is that the lagging will charcoal and may eventually catch fire which can spread to the model and destroy it, particularly if the boiler is completely enclosed within the model. I speak from experience! If it does happen don't touch the boiler, let it cool down for about 5 hours and for gods sake don't be tempted to fill it with water otherwise you will scald your self as the water flashes into superheated steam.


Cheers


Geoff


:D the chapter "specific dangers and properties of steam" in the fleetmanual of my current company was literally written by me, as I was the only one back then with practical experience with steam (all other vessels up till then were fitted with Thermal oil as primary heating).
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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #18 on: October 17, 2023, 05:56:23 pm »

Hello !
Interesting post Bruttus ! Thanks to share !  ok2

I love the fire extinguisher of Geoff ! Smart and very clever : also nice to watch it working.
I also agree 100% with what you say concerning flaring in a dry boiler. Nothing will go wrong but the lagging will suffer.
Below is what happens to me when my wife calls me on the phone , saying that she will be short ! I didn't dare to hang up ! %)
https://youtu.be/WywfGF144aY?si=KJzk_gqCxSwl605X

It is already hard to silver solder a boiler properly , so a single Bu/Pro burner in it will get hot without damaging nothin.
Cheers !

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #19 on: October 17, 2023, 06:16:20 pm »

Hello !
Interesting post Bruttus ! Thanks to share !  ok2

Thanks for the compliment and you're welcome.

In doing all this, I learned a bit about water and how to treat it. I used to "know everything there is to know" about boiler and cooling water testing and treatment, but haven't used that in a long time because the last 10 years I've not worked with steam anymore. However, that is not what I mean.
Model steam has different requirements, and I am fully aware that for most people, most model installations and most situations, boilerwater treatment is rather irrelevant.

Yet, since the last two months or so (two months at home, there is seatime inbetween) I have been pretty much steaming at least 1 hour per day on average, so I did do some observations that MIGHT be of interest for some of you.

I'll probably post something about that as well.



I love the fire extinguisher of Geoff ! Smart and very clever : also nice to watch it working.I also agree 100% with what you say concerning flaring in a dry boiler. Nothing will go wrong but the lagging will suffer.Below is what happens to me when my wife calls me on the phone , saying that she will be short ! I didn't dare to hang up ! %) https://youtu.be/WywfGF144aY?si=KJzk_gqCxSwl605XIt is already hard to silver solder a boiler properly , so a single Bu/Pro burner in it will get hot without damaging nothin.Cheers !


It is good to know that these small boilers do not damage all that easily, but I can't help it, professional deformation causes the back of my mind to start screaming bloody murder when water level even only gets close to the top of the flue tube. :D :D :D


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Feedwater quality...
« Reply #20 on: October 17, 2023, 08:59:09 pm »

Controversial subject...


Steel boilers need treated water. Dissolved oxygen is harmful, pH needs to be a fair bit over 8 (from memory way back when I still operated large boilers, pH of boiler water was kept well above 9, pH of condensate "at least above 8", CL "as low as possible" but according to Nalfleet and Unitor 300 ppm was allowable, and a surplus of Sulphite, an oxygen scavenger, but I don't remember what the recommended value was).

Brass and Copper basically are not too picky about the water quality, as far as I know it should neither be too acidic nor to alkaline, and basically containing as little as possible scale forming dissolved solids (TDS), because you don't want to have to treat the boiler with citric acid.
Some model steamers and manufacturers of model steam recommend adding about 5% tapwater to demi water in order to get a slightly alkaline feedwater. If I understand the reasoning, this is because demiwater is NOT the same as destilled water: Demiwater still contains the same amount of ions as the water it was produced from contained, just the scale forming ones have been replaced with non-scale forming ones. These ions can possibly react with the zinc in brass, and that is undesirable.
Destilled water contains barely any ions, period, which should (in theory) leave the zinc alone. Metals as such do not dissolve in water, they need to first have reacted with another element to form a compound like a salt or other compound soluable in water.
Mind you, this is a theory I have heard, I am NOT a chemist. But if this theory is correct, distilled water should be "safer" (less harmful to brass) than demineralized water.
Then again, there are LOTS of different alloys that can be called brass, and some are very resistant to dezincing, others aren't.

To be honest, I would not really know, because my professional experience is limited to steel boilers. I did read some things about dezincing brass fittings (a study performed in commission for one of our water grids) but that study only mentioned the effects of Chlorides and CO2, which makes me conclude that distilled water does not affect brass too much. Demi water might be another thing, I really can't tell, I could not find any clear or conclusive info on that.
According that study, CL increased dezincing, CO2 reduced it. To the best of my knowledge, CO2 dissolved in water makes the water acidic, so that confused me a little bit.

PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong, because I could not really find much on the subject, and asking around with a few dutch model steamers also did not really yield clear answers.


I did some testing with the TDS numbers.
I destill my own feedwater (simple commercially availlable destiller, if you do it properly it is near free because that thing heats my living room pretty good, so I can switch off the central heating for several hours :D).


Our local tapwater is about 200 ppm TDS, my destiller manages between 1 and 3 ppm. A cup of tapwater mixed with 5L of destilled water results in approx 20 ppm.
Running the boiler for 1 hour on that feedwater, the boiler water rises to 60 ppm, roughly. My TDS meter turns from green to red at 50 ppm, so I assume 50 ppm is some sort of treshold value for deposits or something.
Running the boiler on straight destillate, it takes about 4 hours before the boiler reaches 30 ppm,and about 5 or 7 hours to reach the redline of 50.


So I decided to run straight destillate and refresh the boiler every 4 hours, because that is convenient: I don't need a calculator to see whether a number is divisible by 4 so that is easy to keep track of, no logbook or such needed.


Now that is all not so very important, I mean, everybody has his own ways to deal with the water, and I guess most people just buy a bottle of demi or destilled, and never give it a second thought.

But.... does it make a difference?
I can only say that Yup, it does... After spending (no joke) about 20 hours watching the levelglass in the last 2 or 3 weeks, keeping track of TDS numbers, the difference between a boiler filled with destilled water, versus a boiler filled with, say, water containing 50 ppm TDS is clearly visible in how the water behaves in the level glass. Lots more movement in the glass during constant steam demand, and the water level responds much stronger to changes in steam demand as well. A "clean" boiler, going from minimum RPM to full, the level rises by maybe 5 mm. Visible but not remarkable, but at 50 ppm, that level change can easily be 15~20 mm, and water carry-over in the steamline is not unthinkable.
Level glass becomes increasingly harder to read.

Is it important? Most probably, not at all. Not when steaming is done occasionally and the boiler always emptied after use and refilled with fresh water before use.
Right now, I run the plant too often to bother with emptying it every time after use.


But in case anyone wondered, no need to wonder anymore.
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1967Brutus

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Pimp my Microcosm... Conclusion
« Reply #21 on: October 18, 2023, 12:01:33 pm »

I am fully aware that I have taken some of the things mentioned, quite a bit further than anybody in his right mind would.
I mean, who would ever bother to check boiler water properties? Who would take the trouble of pre-heating boiler feedwater, or attempting to recover condensate?


Does it have any useful purpose at all?

I guess that depends on what one expects from it all.


I can't help it, I'm an engineer and I run basically everything from tiny model airplane engines to this model steam plant, as optimal as possible, and to be honest, I think when all separate issues come together and all is added up it makes a significant difference.

-The lubrication set-up with the wickfeed makes for a hassle free operation with good wear behaviour: I am at 46 hours of runtime now, realistically, that is what most people need several seasons for to reach, and for this class of engine (brass, not very precisely made) maybe even close to end of useful life. Yet, the engine runs like new, heck, better than new because straight from the box it ran not nearly as smooth as it does right now.
-The pressure control with proportional burner control makes for as constant as possible operating conditions. This in itself does not contribute all that much to efficiency, BUT it makes for constant numbers, making it easier to detect deviations and anomalies. It also makes for a more stable operation of the displacement oiler, which saves oil but also improves how the engine runs.
-Keeping an eye on waterquality helps the workings of the level glass, making it easier to monitor feedrate and in general reducing the risks of low or high boiler levels. Whether an occasional low water level will lead to damage or not, running it dry surely is NOT going to prolong its life.
These more stable running conditions make it possible to prolong the operating time without supervision. I mean, there is no point in arranging for a 50 minute feedwatersupply if you still need to come in every 5 or 10 minutes to check boiler level, lubrication or whatever, right?

So yes... Although it started out as a silly experiment, a project born from wild ideas and intended to just in general waste my free time with, in hindsight I think I would repeat it for a possible next steamer project. Most definitely the condensate reclaiming. Because the result is an easy to operate boat with a very accpetable operating duration, requiring very little attention in practical use. I'd say it was also worth it from the practical POV.
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Geoff

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #22 on: October 18, 2023, 05:39:38 pm »

I for one am very appreciative of your detailed engineering take on this as its a fascinating subject with lots of myths unintentionally propagated. Personally I'm a great favour of KISS but I really do appreciate those who take it all a step further. For me reliability is key, I expect my models to work well every time I use them without breakdown.


I'm also aware of the expression, use it or lose it! I hadn't sailed Canopus for about 5/6 years and she was very spiteful because of it but we are all good now.


I had a number of problems - the burner kept going out after about ten minutes. Odd because Canopus was always 100% reliable. There were two causes for this. The first being I had left some gas in the gas tank and it had deteriorated and produced a rust type sludge which from time to time blocked the jet. No idea why this should be but it happened. I also felt there was more steam blow-by from the engine but it was subjective so I improved the bulkhead between the boiler and the engine as I felt spare steam may be working its way back to the burner and putting it out. It worked but not 100% of the time and the duration  was down from 30 mins to about 20 mins, also the speed seemed slower but that was subjective. I also installed a small PC fan to provide positive draft for the burner. I'm not sure if that was really necessary but it eliminated one further question so I'll keep it. It worked for years without it though!


In the end the "O" ring piston rings were found to have gone hard due to lack of use permitting more blow-by and increased steam consumption. In the end I replaced them with red silicon ones and instantly everything was restored to normal, speed up, duration up and everything good.


It will teach me to ignore the lady for too long - you know what they can be like when they don't get enough attention - lesson learned!!  :-)


Do please keep up the technical side of things and happy steaming!


Cheers


Geoff
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Geoff

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #23 on: October 18, 2023, 05:43:51 pm »

Canopus
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1967Brutus

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Re: Pimp my Microcosm...
« Reply #24 on: October 18, 2023, 06:01:26 pm »

I for one am very appreciative of your detailed engineering take on this as its a fascinating subject with lots of myths unintentionally propagated. Personally I'm a great favour of KISS but I really do appreciate those who take it all a step further. For me reliability is key, I expect my models to work well every time I use them without breakdown.

Thanks for the kind words. I hope to at least trigger people into thinking outside the box, because even with very modest and simple means, it turns out one CAN polish a 'unit of fecal matter'. The Mythbusters allready proved that in the literal sense, but it also is possible in the figurative sense.



I think you would be surprised how "simple" my set-up is.
Virtually everyone here uses a form of RC shutdown of the burner. I use that valve to also control steam pressure. A lot can go wrong with the diaphragms of analog burner controllers, I don't use that=>simplicity. There is, beside the pressure sensor no additional electronics in the boat.
Virtually everybody that uses a feedpump, uses an engine driven feedpump, with a remote controlled bypass valve and associated piping.
I use an electric feedpump, simple one-way piping from feedwatertank via preheater to boiler.
SOME people use electronic forms of level control. I don't.

Despite that, true, anything added to the base installation as delivered by Jin, can be seen as needless complication. But I like to think that the machine perhaps works "well" straight from the box, but functions "better" with the add-ons. And with "better" I mean most specifically smoother, less wear, more consistency. Ease of operation is a bonus IF (big if) that can be achieved...


So far aside from the faillure of the original drive of the feedpump (QC issue with Regner, I guess) the boat has proven to be extremely reliable with that faillure as the only one in now 46,5 running hours.

Just to give an impression: this is how easy the boat is brought into operation.
Previous to the video, the feedwater tank and gas tank were filled, and the burner ignited. Those proceedings are rather self-explanatory.
If the dutch language is an issue, switch on subtitles, then go to settings and change language to english.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NY6Gr5_aiw
In all fairness, nowadays I cast off the moment the engine is turning over, because there really is no need to wait for the condensor to start functioning. It is enough to keep power a bit down untli I see the steam coming from the exhaust.
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If you do without observing, you won't learn a thing.
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