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Author Topic: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...  (Read 4487 times)

1967Brutus

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A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« on: October 28, 2023, 10:02:23 am »

The category states "Electric, glow, steam, diesel", but this is going to be gasoline...

About 7 years ago, as a side project, I modified an ASP fourstroke glow engine to run on gasoline, run an extremely low RPM (it had no issues going elow 1000 RPM, but I ended up with 1500 RPM, governed, in order to have some velocity at the prop blade tips) and I temporarily fitted that in the cheapest hull I could find.

It was a fun project to get that little engine running halfway decent (there still is some work to be done with the valve timing, other than that it ran fairly OK), and the plans were there to transfer the whole set-up to a decent boat once everything was running OK.
Unfortunately that never materialized until now.

That boat had a CPP, and a steering Kort-nozzle and that, as we probably all know, results in remarkable manouvering characteristics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNxp-d6AfxA
Fuel consumption was ridiculous, at 20 ml per hour approximately...

Anyway, the build of the new hull for this plant has now started. No idea when it will be finished, because since I have a bit more room, I intend to add on-board starting, and change the engine from aircooled (temperature controlled electric fan) to watercooled (closed loop with bilge-cooling, probably engine driven pump).

Now I am not the most organized builder, but:





means that the continuation of this slow speed gasoline project has finally found continuation after 7 years...
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1967Brutus

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2023, 10:59:26 pm »

So far, pretty straight forward building...

Deck in place:
 



The "backbone" adapted to accept the Marx controllable pitch propeller and shaft:
 



Test-fitting the shaft on the backbone:
 



And the backbone glued in the hull.
 


It is getting late, so tomorrow continueing with fitting the propshaft in the hull.
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2023, 04:18:11 pm »

 
Giving the build another kick, today worked out the hole in the hull to pass the sterntube through:
 



The sterntube assembly was located, marked and glued in
 


 
This is the first sign of "something is going to be different about this"...


and fixated:
 


Glue used is Bison Combi Power PolyUrethane 2-component. I was told this to be the best option for ABS after Stabilit-Express (which is not easily availlable over here), but I am not too happy with this glue WRT handling. Stabilit is easier to get a nice and smooth result with

I'll have to wait for the glue to set before fitting and placing the fin.
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2023, 07:37:01 pm »

So... I glued the sterntube in, as centered and parallel as I could, basing myself on the "backbone" (which due to the laser-cut and symetrical frames SHOULD be centered and parallel, right?)


Well... when I placed the fin, it turned out that the inside of the hull does not 100% align with the outside... What is centered on the inside, turns out to be about 1 mm sideways of the center of the outside,,,


 
(note how the fin lines up with the keel of the hull)


But other than that, things seem to work out fine
 





Basically, here is where I have to start deviating from what the kit instructions say the order of assembly should be, because from now on I need to take the driveline into account, and that driveline does not only not yet exist, it also will most definitely NOT match the lay-out of the originally intended steam plant.
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2023, 12:31:49 pm »

So... today the rudder construction was tackled.

Fitted the heel to the fin, aligned the rudderstock to determine the spot for drilling, and so I did.

Looks nice and vertical:




Looks nice and centered:




And then you look on the inside and:



Not in the middle... :( and I have no idea where this went wrong.

What I also don't like: THat deck frame is there according to drawing.
The rudder bearing tube is there according to drawing.
The servo mount is according to drawing, and still, that deckframe blocks virtually all portside rudder deflection, and the pushrod cannot be installed due to the frame being in the way.

The looks and style of this boat is pretty, the contents of the kit are decent if not downright good, but the design and execution are a bit poor to say the least...

Oh well...
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2023, 04:51:25 pm »

Rudder done...







Of course the rudder will get a coat of paint, prolly a proper "antifouling-red" colour (no real antifouling of course, just the colour...
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2023, 10:43:02 pm »

I was a bit not paying attention when I cooked up this:





Then I looked in the drawings, and there's supposed to be a floor there, right at the level where the pitch servo sits...
So too ridiculous for words to have a separate bracket. Thus:

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2023, 10:18:31 am »

But with a little it luck it will be barely visible once the salon is done:


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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2023, 03:57:12 pm »

An this is where the "but... different..." really kicks in :D

The saloon is at the moment only loose wooden parts loosely put in place to assess what needs to be changed, since from here on I cannot follow the building instructions anymore and have to make my own.


 
looks like I can still permanently fix the floor in place, if I enlarge the cut-out a few mm more so I can reach the rear grubscrew of the cardanic coupler.

Within 1 or 2 cm, this should be the location of the engine if I want to keep the angle differences between the three shafts within reasonable limits.
Since with the Marx variable prop, the entire shaft moves forward/aft when the pitch is changed (total movement approx 3~4 mm) the rear couping is cardanic (Robbe Nickel plated Brass item) but the forward coupler HAS to be a dogbone coupler to allow for this displacement. That one is a Raboesch item. Brilliant stuff, that, because I could get them even in the same thread as the size used on the crankschaft, so that is a direct bolt on.




And... I am "starting to séé it"...



Of course, the flotsam currently still attached to the engine needs to be discarded and a decent engine foundation needs to be built.
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2023, 06:43:11 pm »

So today I had to do something about the engine, or at least, how to mount it in the boat.

Some scrap wood, an electric jigsaw, and some Aliphatic glue, and...











The stand is much larger than necessary to support the engine, but I needed the platform on the bow-side in order to mount the throttle servo, and I needed the beams to extend aft in order to fit the RPM pick-up that supplies the governor with info.
 





Now everything has to come apart again for oil and fuel proofing, so tomorrow will be pore-filler day, day after will be paint/laquer day, and Saturday I can check hull integrity...

And from there on, I can start following the kit's building instructions again.

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2023, 07:53:01 pm »



And from there on, I can start following the kit's building instructions again.


But until then:


Machine deck has been sealed against water and oil and is now "uniting" with the hull


 
 
The old batteries serve as weight to pin down until the glue has cured


Engine foundation is fitted with the throttle servo and also sealed up:


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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2023, 07:28:22 am »

First float test, not bad at all... I had a slight fear it would be down by the head (the engine + flywheel weigh in at 1,4 kilo), but surprisingly trim turns out to be even slightly down by the stern.



Still lots of wood and glue to go, and a fair bit of installing and commissioning...
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2023, 06:50:36 pm »

Today I reworked the camshaft of the engine a bit, to get the exhaust to open approx 15 degrees before bottom dead center (was something like 60 degrees) and close again as close as possible to TDC (was about 40 degrees after IIRC).
Ditto but opposite deac centers for the intake valve.

This, because valve timing calculated vor 10K RPM simply is not suitable for 1,5K: Especially severe reversal of exhaust gas as a consequence:
Intake opens 40~50 degrees before TDC, but exhaust closes 40~50 degrees after TDC. After TDC, piston goes down of course, but throttle opening is extremely small, and since there's no restriction in the exhaust, spent gas is being drawn in instead of fresh mixture, until the exhaust closes. This "dilutes" the fresh mixture which results in poor combustion and fouling engine.

I do not have pictures of that.
I did the regrinding of the cam profile freehand with a grey stone in the Dremel. Only tiny bits of removal needed. Given the extremely small throttle opening (approx 1~1,5 mm2 or maybe less) and the low engine speed, it is safe to say that cam profile, seat hammering and maximum valve lift become totally irrelevant. Only timing matters.

Aside from that, "collision bulkhead" was made, fitted, pore-fillered and laquered.
 

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1967Brutus

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #13 on: November 04, 2023, 05:41:15 am »

Bulk head installed:

https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231103_214918-1-jpg.559645/


https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231103_214901-1-jpg.559646/









Pretty happy with the result. I am normally not a "pretty" builder, but this looks acceptable to me.

Installing the ignition (which by the way, is a CH ignitions item with a customized advancing curve that retards all the way down to 0 RPM instead of only down to 1000 RPM)




After a lot of fiddling (narrow access, everything has to be done with max 2 fingers) the ignition is into place and packed in foam rubber



Looks nice to me:


Installing is near impossible with the engine in place, so that has to be installed back as well

https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231103_222544-1-jpg.559657/

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1967Brutus

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2023, 02:23:05 pm »

Getting closer and closer...

https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231104_150027-1-jpg.559757/


https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231104_150036-1-jpg.559758/

I hate that sheeting of the deck, but to be honest, the declining ugliness works motivating...



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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #15 on: November 05, 2023, 03:59:21 pm »

The structural build is nearing its end:

Cabin is glued in place, the door is hinged (unlike the builder :D)
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231105_155628-1-jpg.559951/


Interior is largely done (only steering stand still to be done)
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231105_155637-1-jpg.559950/

Roof is removable for access, and so are the benches and table
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231105_155651-1-jpg.559941/

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1967Brutus

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #16 on: November 06, 2023, 10:58:50 am »

Today I did not feel like woodwork, so I made the fuel tank, from brass tubing brazed with silver.
I can make a pretty brazing but then it won't be a good (tight) one, or I can make a solid and tight brazing but then it won't be a pretty one.

the end caps are just flat Brass sheetmetal pieces, brazed square to the ends and after brazing cut to shape with a normal household scissors (the stuff gets pretty pliable after brazing).

For my skill level, this ain't too bad:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231106_094405-1-jpg.560042/

I cleaned the flux off in the U-son, using hot water, a splash of Dasty, and a tablespoon of Citric Acid:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231106_103303-1-jpg.560043/

Came out fairly clean
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231106_104704-1-jpg.560044/
but a bit of brass polish made it shine even better (which still is not "showroom quality", but acceptable).


Location in the boat, about here:
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/attachments/20231106_104721-1-jpg.560045/

Brackets made out of wood, currently curing.


Exhaust system going to be made in a similar way.
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #17 on: November 06, 2023, 03:37:27 pm »

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2023, 02:16:45 pm »

Ballast was done with loose bricks (literally) making CoG too high and the boat a bit tender because of it.
Then the rolling makes the bathwater slosh, which amplifies the rolling...

But here's a first test with the RC gear thrown in loosely and the governor installed and active.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufhKXAC50d8
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #19 on: November 07, 2023, 05:06:14 pm »



I cleaned the flux off in the U-son, using hot water, a splash of Dasty, and a tablespoon of Citric Acid:



I highly underestimated the tenacity of that flux, first run, after being done and emptying the tank, I noticed the fuel having lost all its colour (it normally is bright red because of the oil I am using).

Meaning I ran acidic fuel through the engine. Not good.

Ran the engine for 10 minutes from another not contaminated tank, and boiled out the original tank for 30 minutes in water with laundry detergent (alkaline, should neutralize acids).
Next boiled it out in straight tapwater for another half hour.


Ran the engine today, and afterwards still saw a minor bit of discoloration, not as much as before, so I guess it is acceptable now but that was not a good thing of me, to run the engine with an improperly cleaned tank...
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #20 on: November 07, 2023, 11:44:54 pm »

It seems to work...

Put ballast in the sides, approximately on the waterline in order to increase inertia but not increase stability (higher stability makes the boat roll back and forth more violently which also is not desirable), and this seems to have a calming effect on things. Still rolling, but not as wild anymore.

Made some adjustments to the governor, also having a positive effect on throttle response

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8S6NmNbQz4
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #21 on: November 08, 2023, 05:30:54 am »

Bert...with you as a seagoing Marine Engineer, I would not ever contemplate to question your comments about ships stability :P , however if you could use lead Shot [from a GunSmith Store] and sprinkled it at the lowest point available within the hull would it not lower the metacentric point of balance?


This then like a lower pendulum, will decrease the frequency of the roll, but increase the extreme angle of roll?


So we see your Alexandra in the bath.......& the rock & roll generated as frightening, so to consider all things being equal in an open water with a little gust breeze, she may do a 180 or capsize  :embarrassed:


Another option would be to use whatever lead you currently have as ballast, and cast an external keel bulb ..............but that would look pretty stupid


Derek
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #22 on: November 08, 2023, 07:35:25 am »

Looks amazing, it’s lovely to see a new build scale boat with a proper engine in it


Don’t think you’ll ever stop the torque roll you’re getting from that gigantic flywheel - I’ve seen smaller on full size boats  ;)
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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #23 on: November 08, 2023, 08:27:08 am »

Bert...with you as a seagoing Marine Engineer, I would not ever contemplate to question your comments about ships stability :P , however if you could use lead Shot [from a GunSmith Store] and sprinkled it at the lowest point available within the hull would it not lower the metacentric point of balance?


This then like a lower pendulum, will decrease the frequency of the roll, but increase the extreme angle of roll?


So we see your Alexandra in the bath.......& the rock & roll generated as frightening, so to consider all things being equal in an open water with a little gust breeze, she may do a 180 or capsize  :embarrassed:


Another option would be to use whatever lead you currently have as ballast, and cast an external keel bulb ..............but that would look pretty stupid


Derek

Nah... I am not that worried for a capsize or something like that... Maybe when the engine would seize, she could dip her boards, but even then I don't expect her to keel over.

First of all, don't forget that a bathtub is a very unfavourable dynamic environment, any rolling motion of the boat will virtually immediately cause the water to start sloshing and create a feedback on the rolling motion. I expect behaviour on open water to be much more sedate, because any waves made will move away from the boat, not immediately return the energy. She will roll a bit, no doubt, but nothing scary.

Stability is a bit more complicated than just putting weight in the lowest point of the ship.
There's static stability (basically the height of the CoG in relation to the height of Centre of Buoyancy) and there's dynamic stability (a bit harder to explain, but in the bottom line it is the integral of the righting couple graph).
Theoretically, static stability is a torque (force times leverage), the dynamic stability is a ""labour", an amount of energy (torque over an angle of movement).
Inertia around the rolling axis is what absorbs this labour, and the lower that inertia, the faster the roll rate (shorter cycle time of the oscillation).


Most people don't know this, but both in models as well as in real ships, the CoG is actually ABOVE the centre of Buoyancy, and stability is achieved by the shift of Buoyancy due to list angle. The amount of shift per degree of list is determined by the shape of the hull and the draft, and the relation is not linear. When a graph is made of this buoyancy shift against roll angle, the eclosed surface below the graph (the integral of the graph) this represents the righting energy.
And as it is (I tested that) it still takes a considerable amount of force to push one of the boards in the water. Way above what any gust of wind could achieve.


There is a reason that I want to increase inertia and reduce static stability, and that is that it prolonges the roll time.
Look at it like this: the flywheel is a big mass, with a lot of inertia of its own (it basically spins freely around an axis that is near coinciding with the hulls' axis of roll) and due to that inertia it will want to spin a constant RPM.

The sensor that pics up that speed, is fitted to the hull, so any rolling motion will affect the RPM signal (the rolling motion of the boat is added or subtracted to the actual rotational speed. This triggers a correction signal.
If the boat is rolling really violently (low centre of gravity) this can lead to oscillation and increase the amplitude of the roll because any control system has a time lag.

If you think this is theoretical blah blah, I have seen it happen 7 years ago with the first execution of this project. It is real and it does happen.
That hull was too small to add any ballast, that's why that project was stopped.


In fact, it happened in this hull as well, without ballast, and it was so violent I could not video it (needed the one free hand I had to hold the boat instead of the camera :D).
Letting the boat loose, the interaction between rolling motion and governor action could clearly be seen, holding the boat reduced governor corrections visibly.


Increasing the draft reduces dynamic stability, but adding weight at the lowest point will increase static stability,  while not doing much for inertia (weight added at the lowest point, that weight will have a distance to the rolling axis of only 4 cm). So I added weight on the waterline, in the sides, where that weight won't add to static stability, but have more effect on inertia because now the weight is about 9 cm distance to the rolling axis.

It works, because the boat does not tip over and though there still is SOME interference between governor and rolling motion, it is not much, and it is a bit load dependent: it mainly happens at neutral pitch and is virtually gone when the engine is loaded, despite the constant corrections of the governor still being there.

That it works, is evidnced by the fact that I could actually MAKER the video (I had one hand availlable to hold the camera :D).

A big issue is that the governor I use (Futaba GV1) has very poor PID adjustability, and part of it is done in a "hidden menu" that was never intended for the end-user, and there is no proper description of these parameters availlable. Futaba used very non-typical names and I have not been able to either find any additional info online on this, nor was I able to analyze the changes in response in order to figure out what these parameters actually do.
I managed to get some improvement 7 years ago, but that was a matter of trial and error, like a blind man in a maze...

Unless I can find a proper PID controller, that I can tune the way I am used to tune controllers, the only thing I can do is to further dampen the movement hydrodynamically, and right now the only remaining option are bilge keels. I used those in the first attempt, 7 years ago as well and they had noticable positive effect.

There are still a few issues with carburation, making the engine respond less optimal to governor imput, and that is a totally separate issue, but it is illustrative that when I put the boat on the stand with running engine, things quiet down considerably, and in fact, first tests on the stand were actually done without any form of active RPM control, which is remarkable because normally, unloaded engines tend to "runaway", and 7 years ago this was impossible, so I think the adaptation on the valve timing I did a week ago has a positive effect on the engines behaviour.
So there still is also some to be gained by "undiluted" engineering, but that is a separate issue.
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1967Brutus

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Re: A Krick Alexandra, but.... different...
« Reply #24 on: November 08, 2023, 08:34:02 am »

Looks amazing, it’s lovely to see a new build scale boat with a proper engine in it


Don’t think you’ll ever stop the torque roll you’re getting from that gigantic flywheel - I’ve seen smaller on full size boats  ;)


Thanks! It really is a fun project. I did not build the boat for beauty, but at least it had to look decent.
Fully agree, I do not expect to stop the torque roll completely, but the challenge is to eliminate it as much as possible.

There are several ways to do this, and I think I have to walk all of them... :D
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If you do without observing, you won't learn a thing.
If you observe without doing, you'll never know if what you learned was true.
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