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[Fastelectrics]

Hi all


I received a wooden kit for a 3 point hydro for Christmas but am not sure what adhesive to use or the best way to seal the wood. Any advice? 

[Fastfaz]

I would you Cascamite glue for the wood to wood joints, its in powder form and has to be mixed with water to a thick cream like consistency. Its completely waterproof and very strong. Good luck.
      Cheers, Pete.

[John W E]

hi there MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR.


Another alternative, which a lot of people use for bonding plywoods and other forms of wood, and, is completely waterproof is Aliphatic Resin Glue - you can obtain several makes of it.   It is your choice which make to purchase.


For the sealant, there are several choices around.   One of them is using an automotive primer/sealer from an auto shop - you just spray that on and then sand it.    Then there is the actual sanding sealer and you can buy several makes of it.  I tend to stick with 2 which is a cellulose sanding sealer MAKE SURE IT IS FOR MODEL USE THOUGH.   As some sanding sealers which you can buy has a small amount of wax in the ingredients.   This is what the furniture making people use.


The other sanding sealer is a water based one which I buy a lot of is made by Deluxe Materials.  This is because of its low odour.


Or, the next alternative I can think of is using finishing epoxy resin.    Now, one make which is a good one - although it is becoming extremely difficult to obtain and that is ZPoxy Finishing Resin.    I have used this a lot on my model - if you are patient - you can produce a good high class finish with that.


Thing to remember though - remember when working with any materials such as plywood - the material that you are using to seal the plywood with on the surface will only penetrate the first layer of laminate ply until it reached the bond line of the material.


So, on model boats made of plywood or any other material wood - I always seal inside and outside of the hull.


John

[JimG]

I would you Cascamite glue for the wood to wood joints, its in powder form and has to be mixed with water to a thick cream like consistency. Its completely waterproof and very strong. Good luck.
      Cheers, Pete.

Is Cascamite still available today?, must be at least 40 years since I last used it on a model.A better and more modern glue would be Epoxy, go fo the slower setting type for strength.For sealing I now use finishing epoxy with some microballoons added, this gives a hard easily sanded surface. If you add a layer of thin glass cloth on the bottom of the planing surfaces they will be much stronger while aadding very little weight. Use epoxy on the inner surfaces as well to make sure the wood is fully sealed befoere closing them up.
Jim

[Martin (Admin)]

Yes .... even on Amazon!   
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cascamite-Adhesive-250G/dp/B0C8J4KLDB/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Cascamite&qid=1703599473&sr=8-5
 
 
 

[John W E]

hi there


Quite an interesting topic about Cascamite glue.  I encountered it on a 'real boat' I was repairing (which had been built from marine ply) when it was Cascamite 'One Shot' - that was its original name.  It possibly was a different formula as well.  The actual glue had crystalised in areas of the bond - between the plywood hull & the oak + mahogany frames of the hull.   The glue was easily broken away in areas where it has crystalised.  Even in non-crystalised areas it was not of great bond strength.


The boat had been built in the 1960s so that may have something to do with it.


I see that Cascamite glue is still available from certain suppliers and it may be better these days, but, didn't Humbrol have something to do with the manufacture of it??  Sometime in its life I am sure I saw Humbrol mentioned.


John

[Colin Bishop]

I bought some Cascamite ( also marketed as Extramite) a few years back as another 'shot in the locker'. I used to use it in place of water when glueing gummed paper strip to my hulls to represent plating back in the 60/70s. The latest version didn't appear to mix very well and anyway I would use Deluxe EzeKote or Sand 'n Seal these days for that task.

I did recently see something in the full size boating press suggesting that the glues used back in the 60s are indeed starting to lose their strength, Cascamite and Aerolite were mentioned. Nothing lasts forever as those who used cyano extensively to glue their boats together are beginning to discover as it goes brittle and loses strength. Probably for greatest longevity you need to follow the traditional method of boiling down a horse to make your glue - a truly organic solution. 

With regard to the OP's request, I have to agree with John E. It's a wooden kit so use a wood glue and Aliphatic is pick of the bunch for model making although there are other options. It also has the advantage of rubbing down easily when dry to give smooth joints. Epoxy will work well enough but when it dries, any surface residue will be harder than the surrounding wood and produce high spots when rubbed down.

I have also found Deluxe Materials Superphatic an excellenf glue for smaller areas. Like thin superglue it 'wicks' into joints and sticks really well. Ideal for rubbing strakes and spray rails etc. It will also stick wood to plasti too.

John's advice on sealing is also spot on.

Colin