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[old_gunner]

I wonder if any member can help:
I have two 15amp Mtronic Viper Marine speed controllers, one runs the motors with no problems, the other operates the twin dive pumps, this will only operate in one direction. Likewise, I have used the Mtronics set up and changed the ESC to one out of the packet in case the first one installed was duff but still will only operate in one direction at full power whatever I do with the stick. I am at a loss as to what to do other than take up golf, I should add I have removed on power lead and tearing out what hair I have left.

[C-3PO]

Hi Bill,

What radio are you using?

In case it's garbage IN garbage OUT - Temporarily replace misbehaving ESC with a servo and see if the servo travels in both directions when you move stick one way and then the next

Regards
C-3PO

[old_gunner]

Tried the servo and works perfectly, tried with ESC and same problem, I think I must strip out the wiring and start again, oddly worked perfectly on the trim dive. Using Futaba T6EXAP 40meg of course, tried a bench test with a 2.4 with the same issue. I do wish I had paid more attention to the tech lectures.

[C-3PO]

Hi Bill,

What is the model number of the Mtroniks ESC?

Does the ESC need setting up/configuring (Easy one touch set up)? - In Mtroniks speak - Calibrating the ESC to your transmitter....

Regards
C-3PO


Example for Viper ESC

ESC SET-UP

Before beginning set-up you need to connect up your VIPER ESC as in Fig.1.(When plugging the ESC’s receiver lead into the receiver make sure that the signal wire - orange - is facing inwards).Calibrating the ESC to your transmitter Now that you have installed your VIPER ESC in your model you need to set the ESC so that it responds to your transmitter.

1. Switch on your transmitter and ensure the throttle control and throttle trim are in the neutral position.

2. Plug your VIPER ESC into your battery pack and turn the ESC on with on/off switch. (The red & green LED’s will flash for 2 seconds - This is the set-up window, if you press the button whilst the LED’s are flashing you enter set-up, if you let the LED’s flash for 2 seconds then stop, the ESC will operate with previously input set up values.)
NOTE2: If LED’s do not flash but instead there is a solid red LED this indicates no signal, checktransmitter is turned on & that the receiver lead iscorrectly plugged into the receiver.

3. Whilst the LED’s are still flashing, press theset button, this will set your neutral position, thegreen LED will come on.

4. Push the throttle control to the full forwardposition and return to the neutral position, (Thishas set maximum forward speed point) the redLED will come on.

5. Pull the throttle control to the fullreverse/astern position and return to the neutralposition. (This has set the maximumbrake/reverse/astern point)

Calibration is complete

[old_gunner]

Hello
Yes, tried the Mtronics set up on initial installation, repeated the exercise with the replacement, still no joy. I must have made an error in wiring up, as the chances of having two duff ESC's in a row must be about as likely as winning the lottery.

[C-3PO]

Hi Bill - what are the dive pump motors?

Could you cobble a temporary connection for the working ESC driving the main motors to temporarily drive the dive pump and see what happens?

And or if you connect the dive pump motors to their current ESC the other way round connection wise - do they run in reverse?

Regards
C-3PO

[minimariner]

                      Are you using spring returns on the sticks you are using on your TX.
                      Other wise it makes the set up procedure very difficult.

[unbuiltnautilus]

                      Are you using spring returns on the sticks you are using on your TX.
                      Other wise it makes the set up procedure very difficult.

Absolutely what he said. If you are either using the ratchet throttle stick or the rotary dial, the lack of a reliable neutral will cause all manner of problems. Also, have you tried driving a motor not in the model. If the fault persists out of the model, you can rule out a wiring issue. Finally, what sort of pumps, windscreen washer type or hunking great Engel piston pumps?!

[tica]

As I recall it has BEC, so have you removed the +lead from one of the ESC's plug, if not it can cause a lot of funny issues with the ESC's.

[old_gunner]

Absolutely what he said. If you are either using the ratchet throttle stick or the rotary dial, the lack of a reliable neutral will cause all manner of problems. Also, have you tried driving a motor not in the model. If the fault persists out of the model, you can rule out a wiring issue. Finally, what sort of pumps, windscreen washer type or hunking great Engel piston pumps?!

Using spring return as it is, the pump dive system, which requires a set nul stick position. Standard PSA windscreen washer pumps as fitted in my other subs, the only difference is this is a twin tank with two pumps.

[old_gunner]

As I recall it has BEC, so have you removed the +lead from one of the ESC's plug, if not it can cause a lot of funny issues with the ESC's.

Yes, its the standard with all my subs as there are at a minimum two ESC's.

[unbuiltnautilus]

It sounds like you need to test the ESC out of the model, see if the problem persists. The lack of throttle control, just full power is a worry. As you say there may be a fault in your wiring, but it may have blown the speed control. I replaced one in a customers tug last week that displayed the exact fault. However, I don't have any clue what initially caused the problem.

[HMS Invisible]

Any information on your wiring like solenoid valve, diodes, capacitors or a microswitch is very helpful if you want informed replies.  The info you supplied about working on trim is a very good clue.

Yes, its the standard with all my subs as there are at a minimum two ESC's.

P as in Peugeot in PSA?
Like the photos or is it a red or black Lucas pump (plastic gears) that needs a pinch valve?
If it is the flexible impeller head, have you made any modification?

I can't recall the current measurement of this type under pressure or when flow is blocked. There are other Mayhem members & sub kit producers who have more practical experience of the various electromechanical parts than I have. I'd guess the current draw of this type, under pressure, is rather high. For that reason alone, I'd choose servo operated switching quite apart from the fact that it avoids two escs making a ground loop. I'd add a polyswitch with trip indication too.

All that it would need to determine if the esc was functioning was a voltage meter on the output. In service, a bipolar red/green diode with resistor across the pump would be enough.

[old_gunner]

It sounds like you need to test the ESC out of the model, see if the problem persists. The lack of throttle control, just full power is a worry. As you say there may be a fault in your wiring, but it may have blown the speed control. I replaced one in a customers tug last week that displayed the exact fault. However, I don't have any clue what initially caused the problem.

You were absolutely spot on, in desperation installed my last new Mtronics ESC, and it worked perfectly, so have packed up the two troublesome and sent them back to Mtronics.
Many thanks to those members who spent time in replying to this difficulty, now off to Wicksteed to see how the boat performs on and under the water.

[HMS Invisible]

...However, I don't have any clue what initially caused the problem.

Thermal overload of a drive transistor. Same as happened here where two pumps are the load.
It can happen again. It's more likely when the bec supplies a large servo load and the esc supply is twelve volt

It's reason enough to switch the pumps by a servo, two microswitches and four suppression diodes. This also prevents the possibility of noisy & potentially damaging pump motor current getting in the signal wiring.
 

[unbuiltnautilus]

Thermal overload of a drive transistor. Same as happened here where two pumps are the load.
It can happen again. It's more likely when the bec supplies a large servo load and the esc supply is twelve volt

It's reason enough to switch the pumps by a servo, two microswitches and four suppression diodes. This also prevents the possibility of noisy & potentially damaging pump motor current getting in the signal wiring.

Now that is interesting. Usually when running 12v through Mtroniks stuff I prefer to use their 12v/24v high voltage speed controls. While pumps on my long in development U-Boat use an Action twin relay switcher, which I assume keeps 'dirty volts' out of the system.