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[Neil]

DIDN'T say I would stop working on the Barnett, just couldn't work on the hull in the workshop......as it's like a drug!.....once the bug has bitten, you just have top keep going.

All I cab say is thank the scientists for inventing plasticard/HIPS for modelling purposes. Without it I would have had to spend a day or so on making the support work for the bow gobeye from thin ply and wood glue, where as the support for it took me just 20 minutes maximum to fabricate from 1.5mm plasticard and EMA plastic weld.

It will need sanding down and sharpening up before fitting to the bow, and a little filling to fare in to the stem post but that wont take long at all once the plastic joints have cured and set.

[Neil]

And finally for tonight I have, with the modification of removing the top cross clamp on the "Gobeye" which the Barnett didn't have, and dry fitted it to the stem post.

Depending on how dry the wood for the planter boxes are tomorrow is whether I start those, or puty the Gobeye on to the bow permenantly and then fashion the bow breakwater port and starboard.

[Neil]

And now, a question for you followers.

In the bag of a few fittings that are salvageable for external fitting on the boat  is the funnel made from tin plate and all soldered and then painted.

It will need all paint removing and then a few small dents taking out. If i use a heat gun to remove the old paint I could possibly run the risk of melting the solder, if it was soft soldered together and the hole thing falling apart. But it would be nice to use it as the original on the boat!, as one of the few original parts still aroiund on it that is still in existance.

On the other hand, the white plasticard funnet that I made 15 years ago when I built my first Barnett is ready and waiting to have fittings attached and painted.

Which funnel would you use on this old restoration, and should it be the original tinplate funnel, how could I remove the paint without heat.

Thanks foe any advice and your reasons as to why. much appreciated.

[SteamboatPhil]

Hi Neil
Coming along nicely, me I would go with the original funnel, if you use a really good paint stripper that should do the job. However ( of course there is always a however) I would do small areas and in different coats, bit by bit, also be aware that if it is tin plate sometimes the paint stripper can eat through (guess how I found out) some thin parts and old solder.


What do others think


Good luck

[Neil]

Thanks for the info and choice Phil, and it seems 100% that every one agreas, including myself.

To be honest I think the metal is a thicker guage than just tinplate but I didn't really know what to discribe it as, not being a metal worker, but am off to my local store tomorrow where I buy all such stuff and buy some paint stripper, then see how we go with it.


The top comes off the trunk so should be an easy job and not too messy..........but who knows with me doing it, lol.

[derekwarner]

Neil......when the waterbased epoxy turns up, please give us your detailed thoughts on this [compared to conventional epoxy resins]...on the use


How it flows?, how does it apply?....comparison to varnish?..[in the application] ...if you are happy with the final process, maybe even an image of the product name


thanks
Derek

[Neil]

Neil......when the waterbased epoxy turns up, please give us your detailed thoughts on this [compared to conventional epoxy resins]...on the use


How it flows?, how does it apply?....comparison to varnish?..[in the application] ...if you are happy with the final process, maybe even an image of the product name


thanks
Derek

Hi Derek, I thought I had, but appologies if i have not.  Yes it turned out well.  I had been advised to put it on with a squeegie.....basically a small piece of thin bendy plasticard, and tried this with a small area of the hull but it was hard work getting in to the bends and tunnels so in the end i used a semi soft/hard paint brush to paint the epoxy on top the cloth.
The cloth had been "glued" in place using a Schwarzkopf max hold hair spray which once sprayed on to the cloth already in place and smoothed with my fingers to get any air bubbles out worked very well, and had absolutely no reaction to the water based epoxy resin. I put  2 or 3 layers on in quick succession as I didn't want to put any remainder back in the bottle and spoil the unused stuff in the bottle.
The resin took a couple of days to finally cure, probably because i had put so much on, but once cured it turned rock hard, and sanded down well.
Once i have room in my workshop next week I will use some finer grade carburundum paper to give it some final sandings, but it has certanly worked and kept the hull dry.
Agood useable product, that i would use again if I were ever to build a plank on frame model.
Hope this helps. 

[Neil]

EURICA!!!...........finally got my workshop back to myself and my restoration of the Barnett class lifeboat, after finishing the job for my daughters garden, but didn't have a clue how big they would turn out and no wonder I couldn't do any modelling work in the place whilst doing her vegitable planters,,,,,,,,,,

Sadly though my modelling has come to another abrupt stop until i can get out this evening........as i need a new pair as I cant see a  BL+++Y thing without them.

[Neil]

Don't ask Derek...............I sat on them