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[HMS Invisible]

What old escs, radio, and rudder servos?

[Darren007]

The radio is a 2.4 dumbo rc 6 channel. The servo was an old jr servo NES-517, the motor esc is a electrnize fr15hx, the bow thruster esc is a rc relay type a , it says by Alan bond?

[Colin Bishop]

At 9 volts, I suspect you have probably fried them! They would have been rated at around 6v max working.

Colin

[Darren007]

What the servo?

[Darren007]

Everything is working now apart from the fried rudder servo. So I’ll buy a modern servo and fit and try again only using the 6v battery pack!

[HMS Invisible]

At 9 volts, I suspect you have probably fried them! They would have been rated at around 6v max working.

Colin

I've belatedly seen those posts.
Good grief and it's lucky if a pair of servos is the only damage.

Darren, what you have got in escs speed controllers will suffice. If you turn the Electronize to "H" for 2kHz, use it on the blower motor, and avoid abrupt reversing out of the water it should be okay. 2kHz makes smaller can  motors whine but it improves the "low end" throttle. You'd notice an improvement over what the Alan Bond speed controller can do.
 I think you should buy an extra servo.
In the longer term, could you or an acquaintance could wire a pair of switches as in picture four of the images here? https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/pole-reversing-switch-with-servo-9mg

[Darren007]

The electronize esc is already powering the blower motor, the other Alan bond esc is powering the bow thruster

[HMS Invisible]

I read that you already have a Hobbywing 1060. It has an efficient switching bec which will suply receiver and any servos. I suggest that you that you switch that to 8kHz as per instructions. If you don't have a program card check to see if 8kHz is the default setting. Use that for the main motor but keep the battery wires together & as short as possible because you are switching at 8kHz. That 's where chas suggested and where I also hoped you would stop.
 I'll draw a diagram of how you can work the bow thruster in a safe manner that keeps noisy motor current away from the receiver wiring.

[Darren007]

Would it be worth buying another 1060 and run them both? I’m thinking there modern and cheap and both have a bec so may do away with a battery pack for the reviver which is 2.4gh

[HMS Invisible]

I don't actually want tell to tell you what to do or buy. I want to complement some of the technical information and good advice you were getting, particularlarly on the stepwise way to proceed. However, it is unlikely anybody else on this forum is going to promote the safe wiring practice I will go on to mention until it spectacurly bites them plus ten friends on the a**e at great expense. That needs a diagram while I have my own workshop to refit.

On the phone front, I have an Android but had to grant access to my files & photo gallery. I use the P Add image to post button after shrinking photos to a few megabytes.

 It may help future replies if you briefly list rc gear and components you have available.
For example, other speed controllers, connectors, batteries.


 An upcoming diagram will illustrate the safety aspect in controlling the bow thruster with a servo & microswitches. It keeps to one, and only one, connection between your drive battery (here at 12v) and the negative rail at the receiver. If you had a servo operated rheostat speed control, so much the better. 

 Some would champion solid state or electronic switching as reliable. The problem is an additional connection in parallel to a first creates an interference signal on top of the rc signal to speed controls. If either of the negative connections from speed controls to a common battery becomes loose or resistive, you would avoidably loose an esc.

[Darren007]

I hope this photo is visible

[HMS Invisible]

There you go!
Was the relay switcher wired to the bow thruster at first?
It would be the sensible way to go.

And do you see how the speed control negative is wired into a terminal block?
If it corrodes or becomes loose you don't want an alternative and destructive path for the current that takes it through the electronize controller's printed circuit back to the receiver and then to the battery -ve.
 It seems to have been taken care of and a circuit diagram may be a help. That requires your input.

[HMS Invisible]

https://www.technobotsonline.com/Datasheets3/3400-042.pdf
The lower diagram of page six would be how to use this unit to control a thruster motor.

Safety check
I suggest you
* connect the devices to the receiver. This connects all of the black wires in the 3-way plugs together.
* Switch off, or better, remove the main battery.  You want all wired connections intact but without a power source. The receiver pack & associated wiring is not important to the check.

You do have one battery other than the original 4.8 volt receiver battery don't you? 
That is an important detail along with other circuits, smoker etc.

* Unscrew the negative Electronize wire from the 2-way terminal block.
* with a multimeter on the continuity range make sure the connection you have broken is is open-circuit and there is not a parallel negative path from the unhooked controller via its black wire to the receiver.
* reconnect the wire in the screw terminal
That's the end of the check but a full wiring schematic is a good thing.