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[Colin Bishop]

Arranging the wiring is always a key part of fitting out our R/C boats and reliable connections are an absolute must. So often problems are caused by wires coming adrift or faulty connections which can be difficult to identify.

Many of us, including me, have traditionally used ‘chocolate block’ connectors, usually successfully, but they are prone to problems and some don’t like them.

It is however very useful to be able to easily disconnect items of equipment which might need to be removed or replaced and ‘chocolate block’ ones do easily facilitate that.

Recently the lever operated Wago type connectors now extensively used by electricians have found their way into model boats and come in two sizes. The smaller 221 size is particularly useful but, like it’s bigger 222 version, has featured wiring entry and exit on the same side which doesn’t always make for neat wiring runs.

I have just got my hands on some 221 inline connectors which I think are new on the market and am finding them really useful.

https://www.wago.com/gb/installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors/inline-splicing-connector-with-levers/p/221-2411

They are very good value and provide a reliable connection that won’t pull out. I’m definitely a fan. There are lots of online suppliers.

Colin

[Klunk]

Personally, I prefer these, especially for cold fingers!
https://www.toolstation.com/in-line-spring-lever-connectors/p49211

[DHutch]

Yeah, makes a lot of sense, I have certainly used Wagos a lot on the house.


As well as the inline one, they do 3 and 5 pin ones which are also very handy. They also do the older range with the levers like Klunk has shown.



https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-221-series-32a-5-way-lever-connector-25-pack/5201r
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-222-series-32a-3-way-lever-connector-50-pack/76776

[Martin (Admin)]

 
Big Clive did a video just this week!:   https://youtu.be/qKNLX3A23hE?si=LAN6DPkmEd0MKCVu

[ballastanksian]

Either I used the one I had wrongly, it was a cheapo one that wasn't made properly, or 'The Dog ate it' but I didn't get on with it. I found the hold was poor and when it did grip, the light didn't light up. I used an old junction connector (lozenge shaped white plastic thing to connect cables through)

[Colin Bishop]

As  mentioned in Martin's videolink, there seem to be plenty of knock off copies of varying quality so best to use the originals.

Colin

[ballastanksian]

It makes sense that where there are the real deal there will be horrid cheapo copies around.

[DHutch]

Yeah, the real ones are not expensive or hard to find!

[ChrisF]

Those are the connecters that Stan uses in his very neat wiring installations.

Is it best to solder the cable strands together? Can they be used in place of bullet connecters?

Must get some!

Chris

[DHutch]

They are originally designed for domestic 'mains' wiring and will accept solid, 7 strand wire, or fine stranded flex.


No need to tin the ends although they would work fine with a tinned end, just the usual risk of wire fatigue where the soldered section ends.


Any good DIY or trade outlet will have them in stock. Screwfix, Toolstation, CEF, and independents.

[Stan]

Hi Guys just a group of pictures showing the 221 series of Wago blocks installed in my models.They are easy to use no screws they are flat ideal for servo tape fixing. Do not solder your cables just bare back the cable and fit  plan out your installation because these blocks are all the same polarity. The genuine blocks are not cheap but well worth it.

[ChrisF]

Hi Stan - where do you source your fuse holders from as they look very neat?

I don't currently     fit fuses but am considering fitting them in the future. Have many questions on position, rating etc. but needs another thread.


Chris

[Stan]

Hi Chris fuse holders from Action model electronics (Component shop)

[ChrisF]

Thanks Stan.