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[Neil]

i'm not the best when it comes to electronics and have always used Electronize speed controllers for many years........easy to plumb in and easy to use.
but i am finishing a model with twin screw but has very limited space to fit anything in the hull as the original builder had basically made a small box in the centre of the hull, and boxed it all in, and so no where to put a pair of electronizxe esc's anywhere.
 i cannot remember whether i bought this or was given it but it must be 10 years old, and has never been out of its plastic pocket until tonight to take a photo of it.
could someone please tell me is it for a single or twin motor..........is it even an esc, and if used what ampage inline fuse /fuses [if a twin esc] should i use please......................or should i just buy a pair of new ones for a tenner off ebay, as i presume that if it is for twin motors and tank steering, that is a whole new ball game to me which i dont fancy getting in to.......too complicated for my tiny feable brain, lol
thank you for any help.

[HMS Invisible]

It's a single esc.

There are many lookalikes on Ebay. The drive fets vary in format, voltage and current.
Minimum throttle starts at a poor 15% duty on all types I tested.

If you want dual throttle, this is a better simple no-nonsense twin motor esc that has the option of mixing or of independent throttle.
 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354332472778
Two of us up here abouts tried and liked them.

[John W E]

hi there Neil


I think, by the pictures you have put on, that this may be one of those from Ebay; like the one in the following link.


I have used one similar to this myself - it was in the little Terrier MTB from KeilKraft.  It seems to work okay, it hasn't gone up in a puff of smoke anyway.


1/2Pcs 30 Amp Mini Brushed ESC Electronic Speed Controller For RC Crawlers Boat | eBay


Also, HMS Invisible, I have just sent for one of those speed controllers mentioned in your link to try it out.  I have another little model on the go at the moment which, if any good, it should fit in perfectly.


john

[Neil]

thanks for the link HMS I, but that is exactly what i dont want.........like individual use on both motors but just don't have the room to fit my electronize so will go down the route of buying two similare to that in my pic of the single one i have.....that one can go in one of my Atlantic 21's.
thanks for your help guys...........very muich appreciated. cheerrs,
only other question is why are there two wires to fit, 1 male and 1 female, and also a very small switch on one end of the esc..........as i have no instructions so presume i ,must have been given the item.
sorry to be a pain, but as i said.....even a 3 pin plug causes me nightmairs lol.
thanks for all your help. 

[HMS Invisible]

Look again on Full description: on the listing and you get
"Current: Single Way 18A, Dual Way 18A x2. The Dual-mix ESC Has the Following Modes l 1x Brushed ESC. l Two-way independent: it is equivalent to two independent ESCs (if you want to simulate a real tank..."
Wiring is so much simpler & it keeps noisy motor current out of the negative esc signal wires that come with two escs tapping off one battery.

Your esc's board mounted switch toggles the brake between boat mode and drag brake.

[John W E]

hi ya Neil


Would it be possible to put a description/picture of your model on here - so we can see what you wish to fit the speed controllers in?   Also, the motors which you wish to use?


There are, obviously, as you know, a lot of speed controllers out there in the wild to choose from?   If we know what type of model what motors you wish to use and if you want a single speed controller to control both motors forward and backwards, but not independent or 2 speed controllers with independent control?


The reason I am asking is - on Ebay there is a speed controller which I myself have used and it is shall we say, fair, and it is a single speed controller which controls 2 motors but they are not independent.


The alternative is, for sizewise, I was thinking of MTroneks but they are a slightly expensive, need pockets very deep  .


John

[Neil]

Look again on Full description: on the listing and you get
"Current: Single Way 18A, Dual Way 18A x2. The Dual-mix ESC Has the Following Modes l 1x Brushed ESC. l Two-way independent: it is equivalent to two independent ESCs (if you want to simulate a real tank..."
Wiring is so much simpler & it keeps noisy motor current out of the negative esc signal wires that come with two escs tapping off one battery.

Your esc's board mounted switch toggles the brake between boat mode and drag brake.

as i said in my original comment HMS I...........things electronic wise have to be simple, and although i can quite easily wire up two esc's to two motors i just havent a clue what you have been saying with toggle switchesm drag brake etc, and at 73 and recovering a major ilness justcant cop[e with such technology, but john, will post some pics later as i have painted some things a couple of hours ago so will take some later
but to put things in to perspective re...technology.........i dont even use 2.4ghz radio as i only build old classic lifeboats and due to their nature amm ,y radio gear has to be placed under the water line, and as i sail on salt water, 2.4ghz signals will not penetrate salt water as i found to my expence over 12 years ago when i bought 3 brand new sets to sail my [new at the time]3 lifeboats that i had built and shown on mayhem, and wouldnt work.

[Neil]

john, as i want individual control  on both motors as i always have had and normally with plenty of room in a hull to use my normal from choice electronize esc's i find i hace similar control of my lifeboats as with an older classic real lifeboat.
however when i bought this boat off ebay some time ago only partly built, but very nicely built i couldnt see the lack of accessible space below deck until it arived home.
the space is very limited with two small recesses port and starboard that will house a pack of nimh's, a well in front of the motor base which is raised for such things as the receiver, battery pack for that and the 2 esc's, and then the motors. in front and rear of that limmited access the hull has been totallu blocked off and inaccessible by 6mm pky bulk heads,
and that is why i want to use two small speed controllers......simple really and if that controller is similar to a pair on ebay for a tenner then they will do nicely.

cheers.

[HMS Invisible]

Picture number 4 of the Ebay sale. Connect the two in the yellow box together for individual control.
Better low end throttle.

[chas]

Just a thought, how much power (amps) do those motors draw with the props in the water? It's worth checking because those little Chinese esc s are very suspect about the maximum they can cope with, I know because I have a couple. They're sensitive to the peak draw that happens when the motors start. As a rule I half what is quoted for them as a maximum.
 5 minutes spent checking might save problems later.
Chas

[Neil]

Thanks HMS I, but the esc that i have doesn't have the little squre box nor a yellowwire on it, so will just buy a pair on ebay, but that pic you posted has congfused me even more, sorry.

[Neil]

Just a thought, how much power (amps) do those motors draw with the props in the water? It's worth checking because those little Chinese esc s are very suspect about the maximum they can cope with, I know because I have a couple. They're sensitive to the peak draw that happens when the motors start. As a rule I half what is quoted for them as a maximum.
 5 minutes spent checking might save problems later.
Chas

thanks for that vcital piece of info chas, as i wouldnt have thought about the ampage until the boat was stuck in the middle of Fleetwood lake with a wind getting up, lol
but I have a box full of matching motors that I bought as a job lot some time ago at a car boot sale and all ran well including low reving 380s, 400's and 600's so will change these for a couple of 380's or 400s that  have used in previous boats with 15 amp fuses set in line.
Again thanks for your help too.

[Neil]

however, chas,
this was the esc and rx that came out of the boat when i received it, but no tx so dont know whether this might tell you something as to what the motors would be capable of. thanks.

[Barry]

I've got several of those speed controls. I've only used mine with a single motor. They're rated for up to 10 amps. The switch on the board is to turn the brake function on and off, only used on cars. One of the red plugs goes to the motor the other to the battery.
There is one you can get that's both a speed control and a mixer for twin motors [size=78%]https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/163278956177?var=462522174757[/size]


Hope this helps.

[Neil]

thanks Barry, will have a look.

[chas]

Hi Niel, I noticed that those motors were also sold for electric flight, so I guessed they might like the amps.
 The little esc s are sold in 10, 20, and 30 amp versions with very little difference in price so if you have to buy a pair of new ones I'd go for the biggest. They'll work in exactly the same way as the smaller rated ones.
Chas

[John W E]

Hi there Neil


The last pictures you put on regarding the speed controller which is an Mtroniks 30 amp; I am unsure of the yellow receiver.   However, it does look like a 2.4 one, which is no good if you want to run 40 megs.


Now, sit down, I have just priced a new Mtroniks 30 amp speed controller; £56 from Mtroniks; gulp....


So, right, we know that the 2 motors that came with your boat must pull in the region of between 10 and 15 amps each (somewhere in that ball park) because of the speed controller which was supplied with the boat.    If you want independent control, you could buy one more of these Mtroniks 30 amp ones - and then - when you receive the speed controller; remove the red wire from one of the plugs that you fit into the receiver.   This will prevent interference between the 2 speed controllers.  So, you will have one plug from one speed controller going say into number 3 on your new receiver; and the other plug (the one with the wire removed) going into number 1 space in your receiver.  This, in effect, will give you tank steering.


Will this help you Neil?


The little speed controller which you have - the one that has a little switch on - and is shrink wrapped - and has a tiny red plug on it for your battery - these are okay but, if you try and use them with the motors you have, it wont drive them independently and it may fry if you put too much umph into it.   Personally, I would not risk that.


John

[Neil]

Hi there Neil


The last pictures you put on regarding the speed controller which is an Mtroniks 30 amp; I am unsure of the yellow receiver.   However, it does look like a 2.4 one, which is no good if you want to run 40 megs.


Now, sit down, I have just priced a new Mtroniks 30 amp speed controller; £56 from Mtroniks; gulp....


So, right, we know that the 2 motors that came with your boat must pull in the region of between 10 and 15 amps each (somewhere in that ball park) because of the speed controller which was supplied with the boat.    If you want independent control, you could buy one more of these Mtroniks 30 amp ones - and then - when you receive the speed controller; remove the red wire from one of the plugs that you fit into the receiver.   This will prevent interference between the 2 speed controllers.  So, you will have one plug from one speed controller going say into number 3 on your new receiver; and the other plug (the one with the wire removed) going into number 1 space in your receiver.  This, in effect, will give you tank steering.


Will this help you Neil?


The little speed controller which you have - the one that has a little switch on - and is shrink wrapped - and has a tiny red plug on it for your battery - these are okay but, if you try and use them with the motors you have, it wont drive them independently and it may fry if you put too much umph into it.   Personally, I would not risk that.


John

Thanks for that info John but my big  [put off] problem is that all my other lifeboats have with electronise esc's alwayys run in the traditional way  of individual control on each motor as with the actual lifeboats, and tank steering just isn't my scene at all............just my choice.
I don't even know whether the mtronics esc works so cannot really sell it, but a couple of yellowtail ozzy red wine bottles [full preferably] at the blackpool show and they could have the mtronics and the yellow rx, and as you say although the lettering is faded thit is a 2.4 ghz. but having read your post earlier, i bought off ebay two matching esc's to the one i have already.


I also rang Steve Webb models in Runcorn this afternoon, asking about the motors and he told me that they use them for flying aircraft because of their high reving 17k rpm, and have 15amp fuses fitted and not blown one yet so using it/them in a slow classic lifeboat that might pick up weed around a prop, they will be fine with a 20 - 25 amp spade fuse fitted for each motor..........so i ordered 2 off ebay this evening.

 Hopefully I'll be on the water by end of next week...........
better get my nimh's topped up.
thanks for all your help guys.........set my mind at rest.
cheers to you all.

[Neil]

In the imortal words of Victor Meldrew ....I JUST DONNNTTTTT BELEEEEEVE IT!!!

Whilst looking for a servo arm for my hitek servo in my box of r/c bits and pieces i came across this, a matching 30amp esc to the one i posted on here the other night asking for help. But not only the esc but there were numerous Y wiring sets, AND  buried under all that wiring a mixer which i presume is what you guys have been talking about and which i have been refusing to entertain


I must apologise to you all for dismissing tank steering and mixing as i must have bought this gear as i cannot for the life of me think that anyone has given it to me..........

there are no instructions with it all as to how to set it up but will look at the diagram already posted and try my best to understand it............
But first things first, i'll go to my local car motor factors and buy a couple of spade type holders for my in line fuses.

May as well try it or i'll never learn and miss out on enjoying it.

[HMS Invisible]

In my ESC-RC dictionary tank steering means two independent or individual throttle sticks.
Does anyone use it in the opposite sense?

[roycv]

There is often a separate single connector that plugs into the rudder servo signal connection on the rx.  This brings the mixer function in and so the motors are controlled together on the throttle stick.  The rudder stick then moves the rudder servo, which will require a separate parallel connection as well. 
If there is no rudder servo connection then the rudder will control the motors to give steering.  But speed and direction will be controlled by the throttle stick.

Roy

[Neil]

There is often a separate single connector that plugs into the rudder servo signal connection on the rx.  This brings the mixer function in and so the motors are controlled together on the throttle stick.  The rudder stick then moves the rudder servo, which will require a separate parallel connection as well. 
If there is no rudder servo connection then the rudder will control the motors to give steering.  But speed and direction will be controlled by the throttle stick.

Roy

now, that has totally bafflerd me Roy......far too complicated for me to follow never mind understand, lol.............i'm a bear of little technical brain, dont forget.

[Neil]

hopefully my final question for you chaps, as I have found a matching pair of esc's, and two more on the way,

i have made this diagramme of the unit with the 4 leads numbered and was wondering if you learned guys could please explain it to me.
Obviously  4] is the receiver plug in,
and 3] is the on/off switch to the esc I presume.

but what is the little switch on the bottom of the unit 5] for
Finally I am most confused as to what the twin wire male and female leads 1] and 2] are for as they seem too light for battery  connections . could someone please explain to me.
Thank you for all your help.

[Shipmate60]

Leads 1 and 2 are battery and motor connections. There lies the conundrum. Can those wires really handle the current required for the motor(s). I certainly don't think so Neil.


Bob

[roycv]

Hello Neil I have this esc in several boats as they are very cheap and I use them for low power consumption say 5 amps or less.
The 2 pin plugs are:-  male plug goes to the motor and female to the battery.  The plugs handle my Monoperm Super motors and use up to about 4 amps.  The made up plugs male and female can be bought half dozen of each at a time from several outlets on the Internet.

 The small switch on the circuit board is for regenerative braking when using in cars.  If there is a pause when going into reverse then adjust the switch to the other position and this should give you quick response.
The BEC function supplies up to 1 amp for rx and servos.  When the unit is in operation you will hear a 2 kilo cycle note this is the frequency of the mark / space pulses that supply motor current.

In old type esc's the M/S ratio was the frame speed of just 50 cycles per second and the 2000 cycles gives better control.
The unit weighs just 9 grams and can go anywahere as it does not get warm even.
Input (battery) voltage is up to 8.4 volts or 2S for LiPos.  When switching on have the transmitter in neutral and wait a moment,  Then try forward and then reverse.

Regards
Roy