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[John W E]

hi all

Ive been asked several times how do I get the shape of the hull for the stand.   Obviously there are several ways of doing this, its pretty easy if you have the sectional drawings of the hull from the plans.

In which case, you select the desired frames (section) and trace these out to produce the profile for the stand.

Sometimes we dont have that though, and, what I have done on one occasion is made a small guage up out of scraps of plywood.   I have included a quick scribble to show.   You will see the guage is basically like a 'hangman's jib'  :-\

The top jib is divided into equally spaced segments and I normally use 10mm spacings or 1/2 inch spacings.

The procedure which I used was - I turned the hull upside down, supported it so that the keel was vertical so the keel would not move or rock.   Marked on the hull approximately where I wanted the stand to be and then slid the jig in and adjusted the height of the top arm so it rested onto the keel and was at right angles to the keel.

With a 6 inch ruler, held at right angles to the top of jig, I moved the ruler down until it touched the hull as in Drawing A.  I took note of the measurement from the top of the jig.

I plotted these off on a graph on a piece of paper with the same equal spacings as the jig.   Once I had sufficient markings on the graph, I joined the dotted lines up to form the profile of the hull and then I took a tracing transferred that to the plywood, remembering to flip the tracing paper over to make two sides of the profile and that gave me the shape of the profile I required for my stand.

Hope this is of some help.

aye
john e
bluebird

[Bunkerbarge]

There is a device that you can get in B&Q which consists of a large number of rods in a holder that you push up against skirting boards or other profiles and it will conform to the shape.  You can then remove the tool, draw around the edge and you have the profile on paper.

I have a metal one of these tools and a modern plastic one and seen them called "Profile Gauges", "Skirting gauges", "Profilers" etc..etc..

They will give you a perfect profile of the hull form at the point to want the stand to sit and can help you to make the correct shape support.

[barriew]

There is a device that you can get in B&Q which consists of a large number of rods in a holder that you push up against skirting boards or other profiles and it will conform to the shape.  You can then remove the tool, draw around the edge and you have the profile on paper.

I have a metal one of these tools and a modern plastic one and seen them called "Profile Gauges", "Skirting gauges", "Profilers" etc..etc..

They will give you a perfect profile of the hull form at the point to want the stand to sit and can help you to make the correct shape support.

I would advise against buying the cheapest you can find - I did buy cheap and find that its more likely to cause damage to your boat than give an accurate profile ???
Try to check for free movement of the rods right across the unit before you buy. They also have a limited range - wide or deep hulls may not be suitable for this device.

Barrie

[boatmadman]

Cut a peice of card so that it roughly follows the hull profile on one side only.

Mount the card on the hull using masking tape, tape a pencil to a narrow block of wood that is tall enough for the pencil to scribe a continuous line on the card, draw the profile on the card, - you know the rest! 

Ian

[Bunkerbarge]

There is a device that you can get in B&Q which consists of a large number of rods in a holder that you push up against skirting boards or other profiles and it will conform to the shape.  You can then remove the tool, draw around the edge and you have the profile on paper.

I have a metal one of these tools and a modern plastic one and seen them called "Profile Gauges", "Skirting gauges", "Profilers" etc..etc..

They will give you a perfect profile of the hull form at the point to want the stand to sit and can help you to make the correct shape support.

I would advise against buying the cheapest you can find - I did buy cheap and find that its more likely to cause damage to your boat than give an accurate profile ???
Try to check for free movement of the rods right across the unit before you buy. They also have a limited range - wide or deep hulls may not be suitable for this device.

Barrie

The plastic ones would probably be the best and the damage would usually be to paintwork so not an issue if you are making the original building stand but more of a concern if you were making a presentation stand after the paint had been applied.

[John W E]

hi all

Going by another thread, I dont know if Bunkerbarge is a true Yorkshireman, he is talking about spending money at B & Q  :) :) very strange for a Yorkshireman.   Then again, it could be he has been at sea for a very long time  but, on another note, what I have done with my jig that I made (profile guage I made as in the drawing) now when I want to mark a waterline, I just clamp a soft pencil to it and use it as a marker guage as well.

aye
john e
bluebird
(tightfisted Geordie man)

[Bunkerbarge]

I didn't suggest for a minute that I was going to spend money at B&Q, I was saying that was an option for others of a less than carefull nature. 

The profile gauge I use was given to me by my Grandfather!

[Captain Povey]

Hello All, Well I must confess to my complete failure, several times, at making a successful copy of the Smit Nederland hull profile for the stand by whatever means I tried. Apart from the cross sectional shape there was also the problem of the curve along the length of the model. Without this 3 dimensional approach I could see that only line contact would have resulted. So in the end I cut a profile close to what I wanted and constructed from rubber strip a cradle type support as shown in the photo. The 'cunning plan' was to gives all round support to the hull and when the rubber stretches the boat gently sits on the wood. Cheers Graham

[Martin (Admin)]

You could use solder, stiff copper wire or a lead strip.
Form it around the hull at the required stations and transfer the shape to the wood for the stand.

[John W E]

hey that is a good idea that one Martin.

Also, if you go into WHSmiths or a shop that sells drawing implements, you can purchase a flexible batten i.e. what the 'old' draughtsmen used to draw around plotted curves, this has a lead like material inside it so you can bend it to any shape you desire and you could bend it round the hull.

aye
john e
bluebird

[Martin (Admin)]

I know it's November but I was saving my yearly useful bit of information for Christmas.... 

[Captain Povey]

Well blow me down I have one of those flexicurve bendy things I used as a draughtsman before the days of computers. Why didn't I think of it. Probably 'cos I haven't seen it for years.I will see if I can find it in my old drawing stuff, take it home and add it to the boat building stuff. Thanks for the reminder. Cheers Graham

[meechingman]

Captain Povey,

Do you still have the dimensions/measurements for the Nederland stand? Just a long shot, but it's the next  thing on my 'to do' list for my Nederland's restoration. [Just putting plan B into operation here - if someone else has done it, why not crib the answer of them!  ] 

If not... I'll just have to use those flexible curves!

Cheers
Andy

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

I cut mine large, then put foam strips in to take of the gap.
The foam will crush where necessary, and provide full support for its full lenght.

Another option is to cut large, and put the pre slit pipe insulation over the stand..
 :)

[Captain Povey]

Hi Andy, Unfortunately there are no drawings as I made it from what was in my head (not always a wise thing to do) but I can put some dimensions on a piece of paper for or provide some templates if you like. Cheers Graham

[meechingman]

Thanks anyway Graham, I've ordered a set of curves, should be here tomorrow.
Andy

[cdsc123]

The solder/lead strip/flexi-ruler idea.

Staggering.

The hours spent taping bits of wood to pencils, trying to hold them vertical as I scribed the basic outline to card, cutting this and transferring to hardwood, cutting, then the inevitable corrections using the dremel...

Just ingenious Martin, thank you.

Reminds me why I come here.

[John W E]

I can see the headlines already.....

Vicars throughout the world stand on guard protecting each of their Church roofs as Model Boaters go on the rampage looking for lead strip for their balast and hull profiling. 

aye
john e
bluebird

[sinbad]

Hi,
When cutting out your hull frames keep the timber that you cut it from as a template, one from forard and one from aft, increase the profile to allow for your hull thickness mount on a base and you will have a reasonable stand.

[Big Ada]

Or you could saw the boat into three and get the shape of the stand from these!
ps I use Sinbads idea.

                Len 

[IainM]

Pay a visit to your local Florist and ask for some Florists Wire.
I forget the precise name for this, but it bends very easily and whats more it stays where you bend it to (no spring back).
I use this a lot and its both useful and cheap.  Comes in 10 inch lengths and usually something like 50 lengths per pack.

Iain

[sinbad]

Hi Big Ada,
Not so sure about cutting the boats to bits but it would'nt matter with some of mine.

[Manxman]

Ok - some very good ideas here -
But there is another way of getting the perfect profile, and Big Ada's idea comes very close.
Sadly the method is for new builds only.  This is the plunge method !.

Build a frame from scrap timber that will fit around your hull with space to spare.  Set the frame down on a sheet of polythene, now mix up some plaster, and pour about an inch into the frame and let it set.  Now smear your hull with vaseline, place onto the set plaster and place a brick or any heavy object inside the hull (to stop it floating!) again mix up some nice thin plaster (like a thin cream - it must flow) and pour into the mould - allow to set - remove hull and frame - now take Big Ada's saw and slice at the positions required.  Hold your timber up against and mark - Perfect results every time. 

Before trying this, just have a close look at the hull and make sure it will come out - some with a bulbous bow may not !
and don't worry about the vaseline - you were going to wash the hull anyway...

The method also works for making custom sanding blocks for ... say ... coving, just take a 6" section and block off the ends and fill - wrap sand paper around and sand to your hearts content.

Reading back through the preview - you could use this method with hulls already completed - just put the hull into a large polythene bag - it should protect the prop etc and you wont need the vaseline - again check you will be able to get it out - otherwise you could end up with more balast than you need !


Cheers - Kenny