The base board in last post is good. Next fit and glue stringers.
Do not use wood like the cheap hardwoods for this as they will bend where they want to bend. I suggest the woods available on-line for model making. Planking is the same, steam the planks to retain their new shape before gluing in place.
Start at the deck level and work down for 3 or 4 planks alternate sides to keep tensions even. Then continue from the keel and round the bilge. If you have a well thought out design of the hull the planks will fit easily but avoid twisting them to fit. Steaming should relax the polymer in the wood allowing the wood to form a new shape.
However, most gaps in the planking will be long triangular shapes, just leave the spaces and come back to them with shaped planks later. You can use pins to hold the planks in place on the bulkheads. You are not making a hole with a pin just moving the wood grain to allow the pin to go through. When the pin is removed a drop of water on the pin hole will reduce its size.
I use an alifatic glue but just use a glue that grabs in about 10 minutes, I do not worry about it being waterproof as it will be painted both sides afterwards.
When the planked hull is removed from the baseboard it should come away easily and not suddenly come free with a 'ping' or the like. If it does this then this is tensions being relieved in the structure and you should check the deck from stem to stern to see if the hull has hogged.
It can happen and has happened to me! I planked a 40 inch long hull and found that the straightening effect of the planks which I did not steam, distorted the hull at deck level so that I had to make up 3/8ths of an inch to get the deck back to where it should have been.
I have never confessed to this before but it was 20 years ago!
Best of luck
Roy
