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Author Topic: 3D Modeled Parts and Guns  (Read 665 times)

JerryTodd

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3D Modeled Parts and Guns
« on: February 01, 2025, 10:26:41 pm »

I got into 3D resin printing specifically to make parts for my models; wheels, casks, crew, blocks, fairleads, guns, etcI work mostly in 1:36 scale and 1:20 scale, but the 3D models are usually scalable and anything not too specific to my models, or that other may find of use, I share on Thingiverse, especially American Naval Guns from 1850-1870.
I got a request a while ago for an Armstrong 110# Breech-Loading-Rifle and made it because it was interesting.  I've been revisiting this model to make the breech functional (actually screw in/out).It's still a work-in-progress, and I think I'll have to make separate models for smaller scales than 1:36, like 1:96, 1:72, etc.  When complete, with carriage and slide like the reproductions on HMS Warrior, it'll be posted on Thingiverse as well.

JerryTodd

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Re: 3D Modeled Parts and Guns
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2025, 12:13:14 am »

The scale threads on the breech-screw/breech were too fine when printed, and took a lot of hand-work to make functional; I also didn't thing they'd work at all if scaled down from the 1:36 scale I built it in.  I gave it coarser threads, and printed it again.  This time it worked great.  The separate "lever" (part with the pawn-shop balls) needed the keeper-pin holed drilled out, and I haven't looked for wire to use as pins yet.  I printed the carriage and slide, but gremlins chewed a corner of the slide during the print.

Feeling I was fairly done with this, I went and started the 40# Armstrong BLR.  I don't know why.  This one went relatively quickly as I could repurpose the breech and breech-screw with a little work.  Again, I mainly referenced the gun on Warrior for details, and the measured drawings and 3D sight masses were supplied by Carlo, a 19th century Artillery junkie in Italy.  The print had some issues, and I realized I left out some details, like the "tray" on top of the breech to rest the vent-piece on.  I fixed the issues and fattened some parts to print better.  It's all posted on Thingiverse now.While I'm fixated on Warrior's armament for some reason, she had 110's mounted on 2-truck carriages, and I think 68# shell guns, also on 2-truck carriages, so I guess I should get on doing those as well.

Trucker

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Re: 3D Modeled Parts and Guns
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2025, 05:35:51 pm »

Thats really nice, is the actual model as smooth as it looks, i got my self a printer too for the same reason as you, but, i got the filament type but its a bit disappointing as the final results go, though my models are modern day working boat , but small parts are still required, so thinking of a resin printer now.


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JerryTodd

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3D Print Quality
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2025, 08:12:57 pm »

Resin printer surfaces are much smoother than what filament printers produce.  Filament printers are like cake-piping machines, stacking up beads to build a surface.  Some can be pretty fine, but I doubt they can match resin in any sort of consistently reliable way.  Resin parts are relatively finely layered and have a sort of silky, or butterfly wing appearance and feel to them.  The thickness of the layers can be adjusted, but too thick or too thin will cause problems in printing.  Antialiasing will fuzzy the edges of the layers and can make the part more smooth, but it can also cause issues with tiny openings, akin to flash in injection molding.There are processes people use to get a more polished surface on their prints, like brushing on resin and hardening it to fill in the the tiny stair-stepping the layers cause, or even sanding.  People that print figures typically do this to get smoothness on the skin parts of their half-naked fantasy figures or anime girls, which isn't an issue for me.  I don't have shelf space for all those figures, it's taken up with little cannons.  I do find the texture of resin printed parts is excellent tooth for painting, and after cleaning with alcohol, are perfectly ready to paint.

On that note...  Since my parts are going on RC working models and will therefore be outside, it's very important to prime, paint, and clear-coat them to protect them from UV as much as possible.  Being made with UV light makes them very susceptible to UV over exposure; an issue with filament printed parts, but nowhere near as much so.
The other form of 3D printing involves fusing a powder with a laser in layers like resin printing.  If this makes it to home use as resin printers did, I think the durability matched with the fine detail of resin will be great for for RC modelers and half-naked figure makers as well.  ;)
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