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[MattyB]

Hi there newbie poster here though I have lots of Rc experience in planes, but I’ve never used a sail winch before. I have just purchased a df 65 yacht and before I start to assemble it fI am going to waterproof the servos and winch as I have seen done in videos online by  conformal coatingtrhe pcb boards and using dielectric grease in between the joints in the case  but my question is how do I remove the winch in terms I of the optimal sequence of activities  to ensure putting it all back goes smoothly? Obviously I will test the winch insitu before I do any work on it but after that what do I do next? Remove the drum off the top first? Or remove the winch first? Obviously this boat is pretty much fully assembled in terms of the radio and sheet system so I want to be able to put it all back just so after doing the waterproofing. Any tips on sequencing? And do should I drive the winch right to one end of its travel before removing the drum so it goes back on on the right splines afterwards I will mark the drum and case to make sure that happens. Sorry if these are all naieve questions but still winches are completely new to me with servos I am totally confident in what to do, after using them for decades. Thanks Matt

[tigertiger]

I am no expert here.
It seems to me the simplest solution would be to have plenty of slack on the lines to allow movement, in other words not haul the sails all the way in.
I would first use tape to secure the line (sheets) to the drum, so that it will not spool off. Then I would remove the drum, complete with line, from the winch. Alternatively, it might be easier to carefully unscrew and lift the drum off the winch before taping. Finally I would remove the winch from its mount, to take it out of the hull. Leaving slack in the lines will allow you to push the drum to one side to get at the winch to remove it.
I would take a photo of the drum and orientation of the sheets, so that when I put it all back together I can double check for any twists if the drum accidentally twisted.
This method would save you from having to de-rig and re-rig the whole running rigging.

[rodders67]

Hi MattyBHow do you make the various plug and socket connections water tight.  Answer, you cannot easily. So make the hull water tight and I don't mean sticky patches. I have a DF65 you can PM me if you want to know how I did that.Rodney O'Neill

[MattyB]

I am no expert here.
It seems to me the simplest solution would be to have plenty of slack on the lines to allow movement, in other words not haul the sails all the way in.
I would first use tape to secure the line (sheets) to the drum, so that it will not spool off. Then I would remove the drum, complete with line, from the winch. Alternatively, it might be easier to carefully unscrew and lift the drum off the winch before taping. Finally I would remove the winch from its mount, to take it out of the hull. Leaving slack in the lines will allow you to push the drum to one side to get at the winch to remove it.
I would take a photo of the drum and orientation of the sheets, so that when I put it all back together I can double check for any twists if the drum accidentally twisted.
This method would save you from having to de-rig and re-rig the whole running rigging.

Thank you Remarkably that is pretty much what I had decided to do based just on looking at it actually so maybe not all of my RC experience and knowledge has been neutralised by my brain injury! - https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,70805.0.html !!!

[MattyB]

Thank you Remarkably that is pretty much what I had decided to do based just on looking at it actually so maybe not all of my RC experience and knowledge has been neutralised by my brain injury https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,70805.0.html!

A smear of dielectric grease is supposed to help there but I agree it won’t make it entirely watertight.