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Author Topic: water cooling  (Read 4107 times)

Willit

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water cooling
« on: March 03, 2008, 08:29:01 pm »

Hi all

my Springers motor runs a bit hot after a while and I was thinking (having seen it done on others) of using a water cooler pipe to help it. 

Would this scoop thing work?  The boat goes about as fast as a brisk walking pace, would this be enough to scoop water into the pipe and out again?  Also does the exit point have to be below the waterline?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WATERSCOOP-plastic-rc-model-boat-pickup-water-scoop_W0QQitemZ360029644887QQihZ023QQcategoryZ2564QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

regards

Matt
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chingdevil

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2008, 08:45:25 pm »

Hi Matt

I have fitted these on my springers, not tested yet but mine are fitted in front of the prop so when it is running it is pumping water through the scoop. If you want I will post a couple of pictures to show you where they are fitted. By the way check out Red Banks Models they sell the same scoop and might work out cheaper.
Also if your motors are low down and you can not get a cooling coil around it Astec models sell some aluminum ones that look like saddle bags, these are the ones I have used.

Brian
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2008, 09:14:11 pm »

Hi Matt

I have fitted these on my springers, not tested yet but mine are fitted in front of the prop so when it is running it is pumping water through the scoop. If you want I will post a couple of pictures to show you where they are fitted. By the way check out Red Banks Models they sell the same scoop and might work out cheaper.
Also if your motors are low down and you can not get a cooling coil around it Astec models sell some aluminum ones that look like saddle bags, these are the ones I have used.

Brian

Hi Brian

pics would be lovely please, I did wonder if you stuck them behind the prop, to get massive water flow over it.

the 480 motor is fairly hunkered down on its bracket so the saddle bag idea is a good one, thanks for that.  :)

do you mean these?

http://www.astecmodels.co.uk/products-big.php?gref=etti-cooler.jpg
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DickyD

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2008, 09:29:22 pm »

2 of my boats from the 70s have scoops similar to yours and they were fitted right behind the prop so the prop forced the water up the tube. The outlet was above the water line so you could see it working.  O0
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2008, 09:39:33 pm »

2 of my boats from the 70s have scoops similar to yours and they were fitted right behind the prop so the prop forced the water up the tube. The outlet was above the water line so you could see it working.  O0

thats what I was planning to do!  Have a bilge pump!!!   ;D
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chingdevil

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2008, 09:43:18 pm »

Hi Matt
No take a look here scroll down the page http://www.astecmodels.co.uk/products.php?posted=1&selection=accessory&page=2
I will post the pictures tomorrow.

Brian
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DickyD

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2008, 09:51:03 pm »

Hi Matt
No take a look here scroll down the page http://www.astecmodels.co.uk/products.php?posted=1&selection=accessory&page=2
I will post the pictures tomorrow.

Brian
Couldn't find it there Brian.
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chingdevil

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2008, 10:40:29 pm »

This is what they look like, picture borrowed from the Astec site.

Brian
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2008, 10:41:06 pm »

Hi Matt
No take a look here scroll down the page http://www.astecmodels.co.uk/products.php?posted=1&selection=accessory&page=2
I will post the pictures tomorrow.

Brian

ah found it thanks Brian I shall order one.

Just finished the aerial, does the lead soldered to a pin to which a croc clip attaches sound like good practice?  Its the only simple way I could think of having the aerial in the superstructure, and thus the highest point.
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chingdevil

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2008, 11:35:16 am »

Hi Matt

I would think that a croc clip would not be a good connection for an aerial Any joint I put into my aerial leads to help removal of the superstructures is connected by a screwed connection. As yet (touch wood!) this has not given me any problems.

I have attached a couple of photos of the scoop and the water jacket fitted on my springers.

Brian
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2008, 05:03:34 pm »

Hi Matt

I would think that a croc clip would not be a good connection for an aerial Any joint I put into my aerial leads to help removal of the superstructures is connected by a screwed connection. As yet (touch wood!) this has not given me any problems.

I have attached a couple of photos of the scoop and the water jacket fitted on my springers.

Brian

thanks Brian, I shall definitely be fitting one of these.  I have tried the croc clip aerial and seem to get a good reception even when the boat is in one room and I'm two rooms away.  The clip clamps rather well round the nail when it is put on vertically.  It will certainly be tried out on water to see what happens.  What is the pipe that appears to enter the prop tube?

btw Brian the RC you supplied me with is doing sterling service in the Springer Bantam, thanks again for helping  O0
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DickyD

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2008, 05:32:51 pm »



 What is the pipe that appears to enter the prop tube?


Matt looks like an oiling tube to me, very handy addition. Prop shafts can be bought with them or you can fit them youself. O0
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2008, 07:39:50 pm »



 What is the pipe that appears to enter the prop tube?


Matt looks like an oiling tube to me, very handy addition. Prop shafts can be bought with them or you can fit them youself. O0

Willit has one, and I agree it is very useful!  I just pulled out the shaft on the springer and squirted some oil down it.
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chingdevil

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2008, 08:33:21 pm »

Richard is right it is a prop tube oiler, running steel in any bush should have some lubrication to prevent the brass or bronze picking up and seizing on the shaft. It also helps prevent water creep up the prop shaft.
The prop tube is home made, with bronze bushes and a silver steel prop shaft, another reason to fit an oiler to prevent the shaft rusting. I fitted the extension to stop fiddling about in the bottom of the boat to oil the shaft.


Brian
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2008, 04:38:35 pm »

I ordered a scoop and I'm about to fit it, I'm going to make my own cooling coil out of a length of 1/8th copper pipe (if I can find the pipe!)
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Proteus

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2008, 04:57:41 pm »

Willit use something a 1/4 of an inch  or about 5mm smaller to wrap around as it springs back and it needs to be tight
Fredy
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2008, 05:50:45 pm »

I can't find the 18th pipe and it probably has too restrictive a bore for the job anyway.  Is it ok to just loop a coil of silicon tube around the motor or is this simply crying out for the coil to melt and spray water everywhere for as long as the motor runs?
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omra85

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2008, 06:30:32 pm »

Willit
Silicon is a good insulator so is no good for the actual coil. There was a silicon jacket with a moulded in groove on the inside for water to flow round but I haven't seen them in years (they leaked like mad anyway).
Get your copper tube from your friendly car brake fitters (I've got it from kwikfit and similar), just ask them for a couple of feet of the tube they make the brake pipes from. (Ask for half a metre if they look younger than 30 ;-).  My last lot was 10 metres from a car accessory shop for 5 - should last ages).
Find something slightly smaller diameter than your motor (piece of tube, brush handle or whatever) and form your loops around this.  The loops will not be very tight round the former, but that's ok as they can be eased open to go over your motor, then they'll be tight.  You can also use plastic cable ties round the coils to keep them in place as the copper (with water flowing through it) will be cold.
Cheers
Danny
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DickyD

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2008, 06:40:42 pm »

Willit why dont you buy a watercooling coil, cost about  5  :-\
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2008, 06:43:34 pm »

Willit why dont you buy a watercooling coil, cost about  5  :-\

I'm tempted to but the problem is the 480 size motor is really hunkered down onto its mount bracket.  I could try and squeeze the coil in but its possbile it might not fit.

I did ask the company that was linked to here about using a water jacket but they are out of stock and I want a quick fix. 

I'll order a coil now that I know the silicon pipe ideas rubbish!   {-)

thanks guys we're almost there now!
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Proteus

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #20 on: March 12, 2008, 06:52:07 pm »

Why not run a slightly smaller prop that will help the motor run cooler.

Fredy
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2008, 10:26:54 pm »

thats not the problem, the props about as small as I can go now anyway.


the boat runs at full speed all the time virtually due to its Tamiya mechanical cheapo controller.

Its this thats getting things heated up.  :(

the water coolant will help matters.  I literally just ordered the coil so that will be coming on Friday and I shall attach it Sunday night (I'm away this weekend).
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Proteus

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #22 on: March 12, 2008, 11:03:06 pm »

I don't understand your post , motors run hot if they are under to big a load, they run warm in normal use , how will a coil on the motor cool the tamya  mechanical speed controller ?

Fredy
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #23 on: March 12, 2008, 11:23:12 pm »

the cheap Tamiya speed controller is all or nothing or as I like to say "flat out or nought".  This means the motor is running at its maximum rated voltage of 7.2 volts all the time.

This means the motor is getting hot, very hot, as one would expect.  I mean prop sizes aside, the thing is pushing a large wooden blunt instrument through water.  Its not going to stay cool very long is it?

I am therefore putting a cooling coil on the MOTOR to cool it down.  I don't believe I said anything about the controller getting warm.  If it is indeed getting warm..........I don't care.

You could nuke the controller several times over and it wouldn't care less  ;D
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Willit

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Re: water cooling
« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2008, 08:52:21 pm »

coils now in the boat, as soon as the pipes are fitted the boat can be tested.
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