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Author Topic: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD  (Read 30343 times)

John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #50 on: March 21, 2011, 07:23:47 PM »


Hi there Tim
The strip, I believe, on the plan is referring to the rubbing/fender strip which runs around at deck level on the tug. 
The height of the frames should be in the middle of this strip width.  Therefore when you add the bulwarks and decking you then apply the rubbing strip which hides the joint between the bulwarks and planking. 
The angle or the radius on top of the frames is the camber and there is a correct formula for calculating the height of this – to which I will have to look this up  to refresh one’s senile memory (getting old you know) .   I do believe there is a centre height drawn on the profile plan if you have a look – it gives you a height to the centre of the deck (I am sure).
Sorry I cannot be more help, because I gave the plans away to someone on the forum – so I am having to go back to the build and scrutinize from there.   
Anymore queries, please don’t hesitate – AND PUT SOME PICS OF YOUR BUILD ON  :-))

aye

john
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Lt. Raen

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #51 on: March 21, 2011, 08:30:22 PM »

Thanks John, that clears up a lot of conufsion
And yes the radius is what i was refering to (not sure why i said angle  {-))
Pics will follow when i have something of import to show, unless you want to see photos of my photocopying ability  :D

Tim
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dave parker

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #52 on: December 19, 2016, 01:52:41 PM »

Hi Bluebird

Where have al the pictures gone???

Dave
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #53 on: December 19, 2016, 05:39:36 PM »

Hi there Dave

Sometimes there isn't a picture - but there is a tiny box - there is a code number at the side of the box.   If you click on that, it normally brings the picture back - this seems to be a recurring problems after a few crashes and reboots of Mayhem.   I noticed we have totally lost all the pictures for the build of the MSC Archer Tug which I did a while ago.   There are also several pictures missing off the RTTL build 2751 and other builds on the Forum.  Maybe something Martin can look into to see if he can retrieve them.

Last but not least, have you started any builds yet?  Because one of the good builds is a plan for the beginner (The Swordsman).

John
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dave parker

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #54 on: December 19, 2016, 07:47:03 PM »

Hi Bluebird

Many thanks for your reply....I have a feeling I may have asked you this before as I remember the answer you gave me  %)

I have read through and looked at every last bit of this build and I love it

These are the kind of builds, and your knowledge that keep me coming back, I absolutely love it

And no, no first build yet, but as this is my 3rd time getting in to RC boats again, I am determined to give it a proper go this time

On to re-read the Vosper build!!!!!  :-))
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xm607

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #55 on: April 21, 2017, 01:26:03 PM »

This is a brilliant build that I have only just found, I visited the Tug at Ramsgate last year for inspiration whilst restoring a Caldercraft Imara, love the sketches from a proper modeller not just adapting available castings, like I would.


Steve.
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Rodgearing

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #56 on: June 09, 2017, 12:22:02 PM »

 Hi Bluebird
This dopey old sod is confused.
I have taken on the Cervia build and confusion reigns as to what the correct height is for each frame.
At first I took the height from boat bottom (hull) up to the bottom of the rubbing strip and traced frames ¼   and ½   
OK I thought and had a quick look at your build to compare notes and sizes and my findings left me baffled
My measurement for frame ¼  from hull to rubbing strip up the centre line is 90mm
For ½ from hull to rubbing strip is 100mm
OK so I looked at yours (photo 9 traced frames on materials) and compared sizes
Your heights where as follows (yes I took the fact that the sizes were reduced by the photo and used your ruler as reference)
So frame ¼ from hull (??) to rubbing strip (??)is 76mm (give or take a gnats whisker)
Frame ½  from hull  to rubbing strip is 80mm
Any idea as to where my discrepancy may be ie where to where should frame heights be measured please?
 Fred
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tugmad

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #57 on: June 09, 2017, 01:12:28 PM »

Does this help at all, it is of a sister boat to Cervia, but does give the frame layout .
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Rodgearing

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #58 on: June 09, 2017, 03:05:07 PM »

Dunno I can't see them very well.
Any chance you could email piccies please
Fred
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #59 on: June 09, 2017, 04:49:10 PM »

Hello there Fred

Welcome to the Madhouse :-) okay
If you have a look at picture 6 on the build thread - you will see a red and a black arrow - both pointing at lines - drawn on the frame plan. 

The red arrow is the outer deck line height.   The black arrow, in actual fact, is the top of the rubbing strake which goes on the outside of the hull.  So, the top measurement is taken from the line where the red arrow is pointing at.   

Look at picture 7, you can see that this is of the 'keel' area and there are 2 more arrows pointing at lines here.

The red arrow is where the frame ends.   The black arrow indicates the thickness/end of the external keel.  So, the measurement of your frames are taken at where the red arrow is pointing at.

Now, if you have a look at photograph 1 which is the side view of the hull, look closely and just above the top of the rubbing strake you will see a dotted line, which follows roughly the shape of the hull - this is the height of your frames in the centre of the hull.

So it gives you to the top of the camber of the deck in other words.

Hope this is of some help.

If not - let me know and I will re describe what I have said as sometimes it is difficult to put into words (if you know what I mean).

Lets know if you need any further help.   Don't forget as well, I have already reduced the size of frames by the thickness of planking - that thought just occurred to me.

John
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #60 on: June 11, 2017, 12:18:20 PM »

Hear is the tug cervia on the duck pond ,
john
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Rodgearing

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #61 on: March 14, 2019, 10:46:05 AM »


Its me again after many months.
Its taken me some time to get back round to the CERVIA and managed to start on keel and frames I have decided to use 8mm ply cos that's what I had for the ribs/frames and about to cut them out.
Confused again with the keel when you look at pictures 33 and 34 it shows the keel  and ribs joined and it seems that the keel is flush with most of the ribs at the bottom ie there is no keel protrusion but in pics 36, 37 (or there abouts) the planks seem to intimate that there is a protruded keel is this because the first planks port and starboard (keel area ) are the keel?
Confused again and sorry if you are by my question.
thanks Fred
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #62 on: March 14, 2019, 11:27:19 AM »


Hi Fred - you say you are Confused again


Hope this helps you -


'with the keel when you look at pictures 33 and 34' - the keel is flush with the frames/ribs


'at the bottom ie there is no keel protrusion' - when you begin planking - your first planks are laid either side of the keel, leaving a gap equal to the width of the keel


' in pics 36, 37 (or there abouts) the planks seem to intimate that there is a protruded keel is this because the first planks port and starboard (keel area ) are the keel?' - this is where the planks are laid onto the frames and you follow the curve of the hull & your planking will end up with tapering gaps, which are filled in with triangular pieces of planking at the end.   The very last plank I personally put in, lies on top of the keel which covers the gap,


john
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Rodgearing

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #63 on: March 14, 2019, 11:50:27 AM »


Hi John
Thanks matey I think I understand so there is a keel there.
There is no reason as to why I can't have 4mm of protruding keel and plank up to it is there?
The way you did it was the way you did it? i.e. you don't have to do it that why do we?
Yes I know thick as concrete marmalade ;)
 
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #64 on: March 14, 2019, 01:10:31 PM »


Hi there Fred


The reason I don't leave a keel protruding from the bottom of the hull - is - it makes life a lot easier when you come to sanding and finishing the planking - if you have a keel that is sticking out, you have to sand up to it and try not to sand it away :-) or sand grooves in it.


The next thing is, when you come to seal the hull (depending on what method you are going to use - e.g. fibre glass tissue with polyester resin - or - a very fine woven roven with an epoxy resin ) where the tissue or the woven roven lying on the hull comes up to the keel you have a sharp right angled bend and therefore you will get an air bubble there, unless you butt the material into the keel. 


If there is no keel there, you just cover right over from one side to the other with your material and you don't have to worry about air bubbles. 


Just something for you to think about.


If you have a look at the pics of the hulls I have built, you will see what I am on about - and - if I can help it - leave a protruding keel, I always add it on after I have finished the hull.
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Rodgearing

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #65 on: March 14, 2019, 04:44:19 PM »


Thanks John understand fully. So its a choice thing.
Thanks again
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