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[babblefish]

I'm about to order a set of plans for this boat, but I have a silly question; if I order a back issue of Model Boats magazine from myhobbystore, will I get the actual magazine with any included free plans or will I get just a digital copy of the magazine sans plans?

[inertia]

I have sent you a private message about this.
DM

[babblefish]

I have a silly question. I was reading through the build thread for the Swordsman, but don't quite understand how the parts outlines are being transferred to the liteply. I understand the part about laying the tracing paper over the plans and tracing the patterns onto the tracing paper, but how are the lines being transferred to the liteply without the use of carbon paper? Heh, just the fact that I even know what carbon paper is shows my age, doesn't it? :)
-Wes

[inertia]

If you use a softish pencil to trace the shapes (e.g.no harder than HB) then you can turn the tracing paper over, so that the traced side now faces the ply, and go over the back of the lines with a pencil. This will rub the original tracing lines on to the ply.
I use the map-pin method; I place the plan over the ply and push a map pin thorough it into the ply at every point where one line joins another. I then remove the plan and join up the holes with a sharp pencil. For a curve I just push the pin through every inch or so and join up the dots using a French Curve or a flexible strip of wood.
Some advocate taking a copy of the plan, cutting out the shapes and gluing them onto the wood. This introduces the possibility of shrinkage of the paper and the parts not being the right shape once cut out.
As someone once said, suit yourself!
Dave M

[babblefish]

Oh, Ok, thank you. For a moment there I thought some kind of magic tracing paper was being used. I'll try that and if all else fails, I'll go see if carbon paper is still available.
-Wes

[Gazza]

Hey Admin .... can you please update the Forum so we can EDIT our OWN POSTS
I have noticed that as I have moved Photos from the web and placed on another site they no longer show up so would be nice to reload pictures back into the posts
 
Regards Gazza

[Glyn Roberts]

Hi  FLJ,

I liked the look of the Swordsman so I built it for a young lad.  I am using the MFA RE-540/1 3-pole dc motor but do not know what ESC to put with it and what Battery pack to use.  Want to keep the price down to reasonable level.  I would like to thank you for the plans and work that you have put into the Swordsman.

Regards Glyn

[Stavros]

FLJ is no longer a used name on here but Inertia is the same person.....message him and he will help you
 
 
Dave

[Glyn Roberts]

Hi  Inertia,

I liked the look of the Swordsman so I built it for a young lad.  I am using the MFA RE-540/1 3-pole dc motor but do not know what ESC to put with it and what Battery pack to use.  Want to keep the price down to reasonable level.  I would like to thank you for the plans and work that you have put into the Swordsman.

Regards Glyn       Sorry got your handle wrong.

[John W E]

Hi there Glyn

The Swordsman I built has one of these controllers from fleabay

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231312228705?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Don't tell Dave cos next time he seems me he will clip me round the lughole for not chosing ACTion - but - I wanted to try one of these Chinese things and this one works okay.

aye

john

[Glyn Roberts]

Hi John,

Thanks for that tip reasonble price to,  What battery pack would match with this hardware?  not lipo as a young lad will be using,  what size Nihm would be right?

Regards Glyn     (put your earmuffs on)    Just realized that it was your Build Class that I followed.  Top Rate stuff.

[John W E]

Hi ya Glyn

Normally I use 1 x 7.2 - 4300 mAh Ni-MH battery pack - which lasts a good say (to be truthful) if I keep me finger off the accelerator - 3/4 of an hour
that is constant running.

I normally take 2 or 3 battery packs down to the lake with me.

As you know us modellers spend more time talking that we do sailing - so the boat spends more time just drifting about the lake when she is in the water.



Aye
John

[Glyn Roberts]

Hi John,

Thanks for info, I ordered a 7.2V 4300  ( or thought I did)  and got a 3000.   Will the 7.2V 3000 be OK or should I reorder. 

I decided to veneer the boat deck as you did but cheapest piece of veneer was £20  so I planked with Bass for £5.

Regards Glyn

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

You will have lost 1.3 amps so the run time would be less.  As a matter of interest, you could see if you can get a 5000  amp hour battery for even longer run time. The size of the battery should be the same, but the cost will rocket.   

ken

[Glyn Roberts]

Hi Ken,

Thanks for that info, now I understand the meaning of the numbers I can make an informed decision.

Thanks with regards Glyn.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

My pleasure.   

As a matter of interest, the Chinese are producing a 7000 MAmp battery these days. I have bought one for my Tamiya truck and will see if it really does improve running time.  Mind you, the Chinese amps do seem to be over stated, even on their speed controllers.     tehe

cheers

ken

[Glyn Roberts]

Thanks Ken,

I will keep that in mind for my next project, that will be the Dumas Dauntless twin motors will need lots of power.

Regards Glyn

[SwordsmanDreamer]

Hi there


Unfortunatly I have lost that part of the plan that covers the transom. i.e. part 15. Can anyone give me the dimension accross the chines on the transom please ?


Thanks


Nick

[inertia]

Hi there
Unfortunately I have lost that part of the plan that covers the transom. i.e. part 15. Can anyone give me the dimension across the chines on the transom please ?
Thanks
Nick

PM me your regular E-Mail address and I'll send you a copy of the plan.
Dave M

[SwordsmanDreamer]

Dear all


I was talking to the chap at the local model shop the other day, and as i am approaching the point of putting the prop shaft in etc., was trying to price the hardware up.


One of the things that he said to me was that nowadays people dont have separate battery packs for the motor and the receiver / servos - one battery pack will do . Is that good advice ? Presumably this might mean some modification to the internal layout, and may have some impact on the weight distribution (dont know how important that woudl be - i'm used to gliders).


Also, how important are the spray rails ? I'm tempted to leave them off.


How best to align the prop shaft (laterally (side to side)), appart from eye-checking and maybe measurement. How perfect has this to be ? Presumably  a little bit out can be accomodated by the rates on the transmitter ?


Thanks


Nick

[inertia]

Nick
Many speed controllers have Battery Eliminator Circuitry, which will supply a reduced voltage from the main motor battery to the receiver. Don't change the structure. You may need to add a small amount of lead at the back to compensate for the absence of a Rx pack, but it's best to try the model under power on the water first. Don't be tempted to ballast it down to the waterline like a displacement hull - it'll be too heavy.

DON'T leave the spray rails off. If you do then not only will the model not plane properly but the bow-wave will spill up and over the sides and deck and swamp it. I had that experience with an earlier design, so I decided that Alan Burnard had put them on the real thing for a very good reason and I wasn't about to go against his vast experience as a powerboat designer. Anyway they aren't that difficult to make and fit.

In my experience eyeballing the prop shaft for lateral alignment front-to-back is sufficient. Before you glue the tube in place, fit the motor to its ply mount; fit the coupling to the motor and screw it to the prop shaft, then glue the ply motor mount squarely in place. That will hold the motor and prop shaft in alignment while you epoxy the tube at each end of its slot; it's easier to see any misalignment when looking inside at the motor and coupling than it is at the back end of the tube. There really isn't sufficient scope here for making a horlicks of it bad enough to affect the steering of the model.

Dave M

[John W E]

Hi Nick

following on and also asking a question at the same time - Are you building the Swordsman from this plan build?

The reason I ask this is - if you have the plans - the prop shaft length that you require should be illustrated in the plans and also the same with the coupling.

Setting up of the prop shaft should be straightforward, if you are following this build in the Masterclass. 

You make up a little template from scrap plywood which gives you the angle and the position of the prop tube on the hull and it is temporarily glued into place whilst you epoxy the tube into place permanently.
 
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7668.msg74050.html#msg74050

The model, which was built for this topic, has had  2 types of speed controllers. :-

-  The first one was an Electronize with a BEC which is a bit heavier than a small pack of batteries.   

-  The second speed controller is my mate Dave's pet hate - its the blue aluminium type from Yongggg Konnng which tend to go poof with some blue smoke    As to date I have had no problem with it.    This also has a BEC - needless to say it is lighter than the Electronize one.    Neither of these speed controllers' weights made any difference to the performance  - it is still a nippy little model.

No need to go over what Dave says about the spray rails on this model - as they are needed to enhance the performance.  Unless of course you wish to make the model into a submarine

Aye

John

[boxer]

Hi


Fitting the bow piece did you do anything to be able to shape that piece ie soak or heat

[inertia]

Boxer
Make sure you cut out the part with the grain as shown on the drawing. I hold parts like this in the steam from a kettle until they will bend easily, then I hold them at about the right degree of curve until they've cooled down. Sufficient curve will be retained to make gluing them quite easy, especially if you use a slow-setting cyano like SloZap. Steaming also works well for the chine rails and other curved stripwood parts.
Dave Milbourn

[John W E]

Will this help