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Author Topic: How to Silver Solder  (Read 6736 times)

bogstandard

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Re: How to Silver Solder
« Reply #25 on: July 05, 2008, 08:17:02 pm »

When silver soldering parts such as a propeller, if you use the cooler temperature solders, you shouldn't reach the full annealing temperature of the brass. When carrying out the soldering, the parts will go black then start to get a tinge of red, at this point the solder should flow and the joint completed.

The parts will be slightly softer, but do age harden over time. So if you are going down this route, maybe get a lot of your silver soldering done at the start of, or in the early stages of the build, and by the time you have finished, your metal should have returned to something near normal.

For something like a propeller, it does help in the early stages to have it slightly soft as you can easily 'tweak' it into true, or even put curvature on the blades after it is built up.

John
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tonyH

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Re: How to Silver Solder
« Reply #26 on: July 06, 2008, 04:21:43 pm »

Thanks John,

I need to keep everything as stiff as possible since they're for a KaMeWa type drive unit and tolerances have to stay as tight as poss or the impeller blades hit the casing.

Tony
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hanna

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Re: How to Silver Solder
« Reply #27 on: July 07, 2008, 10:39:34 pm »

a lot of people scorn soft solder yet it isn't as bad as you make out, bog standard 60/40 solder is strong if the joint is done correctly, if you require additional strength use a 3 % or 5 % silver bearing solder or even Alusol yet at around 36.00 per spool it expensive.

hard solders (silver solders) start at around 610 c and go up to around 820 c anything above this is classed as braze and embraces bronze types gold or palladium type and aluminium, titanium types but wont go into detail here as specialised area.

sticking with silver solders there is no such thing as extra easyflo or easyflo hard well in 25 years dealing with J&M easyflo solders I have NEVER come across them, the most common types are easyflo with 50% silver 15% copper 16% zinc 19% cadmium, or easyflo number 2 with 42% silver 17% copper 16% zinc 25% cadmium, then easyflo number 3 50% silver 15.5% copper 15.5% zinc 16% cadmium 3% nickel.
there are now the cadmium free types these are safer to use due to of course no cadmium slightly higher melt but safer to use common types silver-flo 55 and 60

as for cleaning prior to soldering don't use steel wool microscopic steel particles get caught in the soft material and cause pinpricks to occur in the join and also aid in interfacial corrosion, don't use washing up liquid might be OK with brazing but never silver solders, if soldering aluminium bronze add table salt only a little as the chloride in the salt causes the flux to go into overdrive when heated.
only use brass or stainless steel brushes or wool, emery the joint instead and allways clean well with simply soapy water.

don't quench after soldering this only adds to the annealing simply let it cool naturally, if you want to read more please feel free to have a look at my site www.hanna-parts.co.uk at the side menu you will see marine and there you will find a topic on soldering from types to tool through to materials for jig construction.

will be moving the site soon so if down when you try it will re appear again once it has Bean moved.

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Martin13

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Re: How to Silver Solder
« Reply #28 on: July 08, 2008, 09:57:47 am »

Hanna,

What a brilliant site - well done O0

Your site on Silver Soldering answered my question well - THANKYOU

martin doon under :) :) :)
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: How to Silver Solder
« Reply #29 on: July 08, 2008, 11:39:28 am »

I must agree with Martin13 Hanna, a really great site, with lots of usefull info, and its filled in quite a few blanks in the knowledge box, I think our leader should put a link to your site, as its very informative for beginners and experienced alike
Oh, and I have soft soldered steel before, which made a good strong joint, not sure why I did, probally just to see if I could, you know how it is !!!!
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Steamed up all the time

hanna

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Re: How to Silver Solder
« Reply #30 on: July 09, 2008, 02:16:14 am »

thank you guys, i am trying to find the time to add to it and fill the gaps there is still a lot to do. the hardest part is getting the contents of the grey matter "brain that is not hair" onto the pages.
the site will be moving soon I'm working on it now it is going to www.hanna-parts.net should be up by end of week.

steamboatphil i know what you mean experamentation is what it is all about, if it was not for human curiosity we would be still rubbing bones together for fire. thinking about it I know a couple who still do!

I do not know if you noticed i do shafts and bits this is going to expand soon as well with the likes of these

 if Mr mayhem would like to place a link then he is without dought welcome.

thank you again

Chris
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