just a little sidenote, when using Superglue and heat When you heat Superglue up to the point where it is going to be or is burning - remember the vapours/fumes contain cyanide and also if inhaled, apart from the obvious danger, one of the really bad side effects are flu symptoms for at least 48 hours, if you are lucky, slightly worse if you are unlucky - SO TAKE CARE EVERYONE
It wont happen in use normaly (when heating it) , there is a chance of cyanide production if you burn it with a flame, with heat (unless very very hot) all that will happen is the ca will vapourise , it will normaly vapourise before it gets hot enough to `crack it` at atmospheric pressure , not good to breathe it though! , they had problems of workers on assembley lines in japan and china with soldering CA'd electronic components having asthma attacks and headaches
"Superglue" does not stick to everything...as we all know. So why do the manufacturers persist in fitting caps that DO stick to the glue. That is becoming a major niggle with me as this stuff is not cheap (normally). No matter how careful I am in cleaning off the nozzle I finish up slicing the top off making the hole bigger. It has to be a conspiracy to make use chuck things away and buy anew.
Its no conspiracy! you can make CA stick to anything , in the right conditions , even teflon
glue bottles are chemicaly unbondable!......... the problem is the surface is not perfectly smooth as well so you can get mechanical interloc between the adhesive and the plastic surface, just like on a threaded cap, the glue doesnt need to bond it, it just fills up the gap in the thread... locking it in postion , once you scratch a nozzle clean it will bond easier next time, use a sharp knife to open a bottle , not pliers,blunt scissors etc ue something that gives a smooth cut
packing CA is a complex area as CA sticks 99% of everything, there are lots of patents about non stick applicators and bottles the problem is the better the CA the more `non stick` the bottle needs to be, the one thing most people want a superglue for in DIY is use on plastic
there are a very very limited range of materials CA can be stored in contact with, even down to the exact brand of plastic it can make a difference on storage, the plastics used in all our bottles are materials that can not be bonded without a primer, most CA bottles are a similar type (not identical, but similar) , bottle and nozzle of polyethylene, outer cap of polypropylene or polyethylene
You cant just buy a bottle for CA, its easy to buy a bottle for 99% of chemicals, but with CA the manufacturers of any bottle give no waranty as to the use of it in contact with CA , we specify the exact grade of plastics for most bottles, after the bottles are delivered (or with a few of the sizes ,after we blowmould them) the bottles/nozzles are sent to be surface treated and then coated to further reduce the ability to be bonded
The coating makes the bottle suitable for long term storage of the CA and further helps to prevent any adhesion to the polyethylene , on top of that our nozzles have a CA stabiliser incorporated to prevent it setting on the nozzle as easily
To store a CA you should always
Keep it upright, as dark and cold as possible, keep the cap on when your storing it
Before storing it tap the bottle gently on a table or flick the nozzle to remove any residual glue in the nozzle, if theres no glue there it will not block
If you start to get any build up on the outside of the nozzle, just let it keep it building up...... until it causes a problem!, let it dry as much as possible, building up to a size were you can crack it off, wiping a thin layer off over and over again every time you use it can make the nozzle bond! , the less you wipe it the better
Dont touch the nozzle were activator has been sprayed, best to put the cap on the CA before using activator, best to use pump spray or brush on activator, avoid aerosols as they spray so much the activator gets in the air for hours