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Author Topic: Brave Borderer 1/32-ish new build  (Read 13428 times)

DickyD

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Re: Brave Borderer 1/32-ish new build
« Reply #50 on: April 24, 2008, 02:52:47 pm »

Andi as a matter of interest Wingertaz is a member of this forum and is also  http://www.redbankmodels.co.uk/  A lot of the chaps on here use him and he is very helpful and efficient. I've just ordered a load of stuff myself. O0
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Richard Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club http://www.srcmbc.org.uk

andi4x4

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Re: Brave Borderer 1/32-ish new build
« Reply #51 on: April 24, 2008, 05:24:05 pm »

Martin -

They do some 1/24 scale stuff and a 1/24th scale gun is due out shortly. They also do other fittings in various sizes, but, they havent listed the sizes on the website ! These items are on ebay and the sizes are listed on there search for sell - jancol78.


Dick-

 I wasnt aware that he was a member here ! That provides me with some comfort as one Item I ordered was not in stock and is now on back order. At least I know where to get hold of him if I lose contact via the ebay system. He did seem like a good chap from the emails and the note he put in my parcel to let me know about the shortfall.

regards

Andi
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andi4x4

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Re: Brave Borderer 1/32-ish new build
« Reply #52 on: April 27, 2008, 05:00:56 am »


 Been working on the forward gun today - figured out a method to rotate it - got that all sorted  using some gears from a Tamiya car as I had them lying around ( the complete gearset is available on eBay for about 3.50 and contains enough parts to do both guns ) and a Futaba s3003 servo modified for continuous running. The gun pivot is made from two pieces of brass tube, one must be a good fit inside the other, but not tight as the outer one is used as a bearing and support for the inner one, which is fixed to the base of the gun and rotates inside the outer piece - I used 3/16 and 5/32 as they are a good fit, however, with hindsight I should have gone with 7/32 and 3/16 as the Tamiya drive gear on the bottom of the turret shaft  has been bonded to an old, brass, Meccano gear - which are drilled to fit a 3/16 shaft ! I had to shim the 5/32 to fit it, but, it works !

Just need to work out how I am going to do the up/down bit ! I am thinking thin rod up the inside of the turret pivot shaft to a pivoting "thing" on the servo arm of a micro servo to allow the servo to be fixed rigid to the underside of the deck, but, allow the thin rod to rotate with the gun -  will demonstrate later - if it works !  :P

Will do some pics tomorrow evening, then, will do the build thread for the guns proper during the week when I start on the stern gun - should be a fairly short build thread, as there is not much to it really - just takes a little time to make sure everything is square. Hardest part is drilling the holes square in the resin base components - luckily I have a pillar drill to help with that !  ;D

I see no reason why this same method couldn't be used for other gun types, too ! O0


Regards

Andi
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andi4x4

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Re: Brave Borderer 1/32-ish new build
« Reply #53 on: April 27, 2008, 03:35:54 pm »



Just been up to the pond for a test - first run since the V-tail mixer was fitted -tried it then removed it ! :(  It wouldnt seem to let the motors reach full speed and it slowed the boat down too much in the turns - performance is much better without it and the turns are tighter without it - so it will stay out now !

Figured out that I need watercooling on the motors  :( - they get a little too warm after a run. This means I will have to , yet again, reconfigure my motor mounts as I did not allow space for cooling coils when I made the new mounts to correct the motor/shaft alignment  >>:-(

I also tried ( briefly ! ) the 11.1v lipos I have for my helicopter - WOW !  :o :o superb performance !  O0 I think I need more volts  {-) {-)  Boat got straight up onto the plane, and, at times, was almost airborn when crossing its own wake !  whereas, with the 7.2v car packs I have been using, it is stuggling to get there - performance is not too bad on 7.2v, whereas, on 11.1v it is too quick really, so I am thinking maybe 9.6v is the way to go.  I have run this hull built up as a pleasure boat in the past on a single 12v 600 motor from an old cordless drill, 9.6v pack and 50mm 'X' prop through a 2:1 reduction unit and got a similar perfromance to the three x 600 motors and 3x 11.1v packs setup I tried today.  Rethink on the powertrain in order I think !  O0 I still have two of the old 9.6v packs I used to use, however, they are both fairly low mah ratings - 1100 and 1500 I think, but, if they are any good I will try them. I am also thinking that three motors and three batteries is now just too much weight - and as the build progresses it is only going to get heavier - so I am now thinking about the weight issue too. - one motor and one pack is becoming more appealing, but, I would still like to retain the Scale three prop setup - ho hum ! :-\

All this was tried without the transom flap fitted as I still have not found an adhesive that will stick the plastic tube I have to the styrene construction of the flap !  >>:-(  I have tried regular cyano, industrial cyano, special "difficult plastics" two pack cyano, epoxy, Revells Contacta Professional, - the only thing I have found that will weld this tube to anything is Acetone - which will weld the tube to itself - but not to styrene !  >>:-(  Will have to wait til monday and get some plumbers solvent adhesive cleaner and give that a try. If that doesn't work - I have some model aircraft pin hinges and will use them - if they will glue to anything  ::)

Regards

Andi
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