Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[barriew]

I have just received my next project - the above 28" (700mm) kit. I bought this from eBay for £45. They also do the same subject at 1420mm long and in 1/12th scale.

My first impressions are very favorable. The box contains lots of cleanly cut plywood parts - not sure how its been cut, but there are no laser burns - some printed balsa sheets, some balsa blocks and strip, plus some brass wire. Also included are two sheets of full size drawings and an instruction manual with further drawings, including a very detailed drawing for the mast. The smaller parts for the cabin, mast and hatch covers all come in separate plastic bags. There is no running gear with the kit - to allow for fitting either single or twin drive. I intend to use a single brushless motor. I think it could be a bit tight to get twin drives in this particular model, although the larger sizes should have plenty of room.

The kits are currently made to order and it took about 10days for mine to arrive.

All this comes packed in a sturdy cardboard box, well wrapped in strong brown paper.

I have no connection with Kitshack (anyone know anything about them?) but if this goes together well, I will certainly be looking out for more models from them. I will try to post some build photos - if I can remember to take them

Barrie

[rmaddock]

Hmm. I saw those advertised....very interested to see what you think.

[barriew]

I'm just about to start posting a buildlog of this kit under warships.

Barrie

[barriew]

I posted some details of this kit under Whats in the Box? - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32068.0

I have now started the build. Its quite a bit different to my last two builds, a semi scratch Tyne Lifeboat and a Caldercraft Talacre (both used D Metcalfe's plans ) This is mainly balsa with ply skins.

The drawings are full size and consist of two sheets, one of 'external' details, the other of the construction, showing location of formers, chines keel etc. Some of the larger pieces of balsa are pre-cut, the smaller items are printed then varnished (or sanding sealer). The ply is pre-cut to shape for the hull panels. There were a couple of errors with the printed balsa, one part had the wrong number, and a line was missing from another, otherwise these are pretty good.

Construction starts by building a box. This is quite easy although both sides and base have to be scored and bent - not too easy with 3mm and 5mm balsa! The box will be hidden in the completed vessel, so looks are not too important It was not clear either whether the end panels went inside or out.

Next the components of the keel are assembled on the plan. This is where the fun begins The front three pieces are nowhere near the same as the plan. Quite a bit of adjustment was required here, but after leaving to dry, the keel is mounted on the 'box'.

The plans and instructions make no mention of a rudder I think I have worked out where to put it, and have ordered a Graupner rudder from Cornwall model boats, which is where the 6" propshaft is coming from. The angle of the shaft as shown seems very steep, but I will go with it for now. I plan to fit a 1400KVA brushless motor and 7.4V LiPo.

[johnboscoirl]

Nice posting, good luck with the project, look forward to the photos

[barriew]

I posted some details of this kit under Whats in the Box? - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32068.0

I have now started the build. Its quite a bit different to my last two builds, a semi scratch Tyne Lifeboat and a Caldercraft Talacre (both used D Metcalfe's plans ) This is mainly balsa with ply skins.

The drawings are full size and consist of two sheets, one of 'external' details, the other of the construction, showing location of formers, chines keel etc. Some of the larger pieces of balsa are pre-cut, the smaller items are printed then varnished (or sanding sealer). The ply is pre-cut to shape for the hull panels. There were a couple of errors with the printed balsa, one part had the wrong number, and a line was missing from another, otherwise these are pretty good.

Construction starts by building a box. This is quite easy although both sides and base have to be scored and bent - not too easy with 3mm and 5mm balsa! The box will be hidden in the completed vessel, so looks are not too important It was not clear either whether the end panels went inside or out.



Next the components of the keel are assembled on the plan. This is where the fun begins The front three pieces are nowhere near the same as the plan. Quite a bit of adjustment was required here, but after leaving to dry, the keel is mounted on the 'box'.

The plans and instructions make no mention of a rudder I think I have worked out where to put it, and have ordered a Graupner rudder from Cornwall model boats, which is where the 6" propshaft is coming from. The angle of the shaft as shown seems very steep, but I will go with it for now. I plan to fit a 1400KVA brushless motor and 7.4V LiPo.


The basic box has been well coated (3 coats) of Eze Kote. This has made it a lot tougher. Not quite sure about a glue to stick to it though. There is not actually much which will need sticking, but I need to do some experimenting

The chines are now fitted, just waiting for some sanding before I can start skinning. I do want to fit prop shaft and rudder before I skin it though, but these have not yet appeared from Cornwall Model Boats - maybe they are on holiday.




There is more in this kit than I realised. On the drawing and in the instructions it says in several places ' cut from scrap', but in fact the parts are there! I'm still not too happy about the way the cabins fit to the deck, or at least the water-tightness of the proposed construction. I think I will be modifying this area, but I have quite a bit to do before I get there.

Barrie

[barriew]

Whilst waiting for the propshaft, I decided to add some doublers to the keel to make it easier to glue the skins. Probably not really necessary, but better now than trying to patch it later

The propshaft arrived yesterday, but so did my new car so I didn't get a chance to fit it until this afternoon

I have made the angle rather shallower than the cut out in the keel indicated to allow me to get the motor under the deck. The tube is also in place for the rudder - a Graupner unit which has a slim tube unlike the thick plastic ones I've seen and used before.


I hope to be able to get some of the skins on tomorrow - I've trimmed one to go round the shaft and rudder ready to stick tomorrow.

I have been contacted by the maker of this kit who is following this build. They have already modified the keel pieces which gave me some trouble!

Barrie

[RaaArtyGunner]

I have been contacted by the maker of this kit who is following this build. They have already modified the keel pieces which gave me some trouble!

Barrie

Contrary to recent comments on another thread, Just goes to show there are still customer orineted suppliers still out there who take notice. 10 out of 10

[barriew]

OK, the bottom skins are all on now. I used aliphatic resin glue for three of them as I could get clamps and weights into play easily. The final front skin was not so easy, so I used super glue gel and an accelerator. As you will see, I didn't make too good ajob of fitting these, particularly at the bow, and quite a bit of filler was needed (still to finish sanding). My excuse is that it is a very long time since I built a hull of this shape, and just as long since I used balsa and ply to this extent . As I plan to cover the hull with tissue and Aero Kote, then I'm not too worried about the filler.

Next job is to trim these back to the chine line, then the side skins and transom.

Barrie

[barriew]

Now for the side skins. Again I used a  mixture of aliphatic resin and superglue and activator. The last two pieces at the bow were the tricky ones. I trimmed one of them too tight and had to raid the bits box for another piece of ply. It still needed filler, but once the tissue is on it should be OK.

After taking the photo I fitted the chine rail and coated the hull in Aero Kote ready for the tissue. The instructions say that the prototype required a 'keel' to sail straight. This is quite a thick piece of balsa, which I don't think will last long at our water as it has a sloping gravel ramp.   I plan to build without and add later if I have problems.

Tomorrow its my third visit to Addenbrookes Out Patients this week (for my wife not me) so probably wont get much done after that.

Barrie

[barriew]

The hull has now been covered with modelling tissue and Aero Kote. Several coats of resin between sandings, and it is now ready for a final sand using fine abrasive paper. I am leaving over night to harden fully. It will them be ready for painting. I have also fitted the motor and the bearers are in ready to fix the steering servo. I have also fixed the bearers shown on the plans to support the removable decks. I think it needs these on the rear deck as well, but these were not shown on the plan so I will fit these before proceeding with the decks.

[Dan.Lord]

Looking very nice so far Barrie, I'm watching with interest, as thinking what project to do next. Keep up the good work. Cheers Dan.

[dodgy geezer]

28"?  And a balsa box build?

This looks very like the Veron RTTL kit from the 1960s to me.

I wonder if is, and, if so, if it's put out under license.....

[mikearace]

Well my assumption from the blurb on ebay has always been that it is a remake using the Veron plans.  Apologies to Kitshack if this isnt the case - just seems a reasonable assumption on my part.

[barriew]

Not being familiar with the Veron version I couldn't comment. The plans have definitely been re-drawn, or traced, going by the quality.

How did the cabins fit on the Veron version? On this there are two removable pieces of deck with the cabins/hatches built on them. This makes for what seems to me like a recipe for taking on water as there are no coamings. I plan to try to improve on this.

Barrie

[dodgy geezer]

Not being familiar with the Veron version I couldn't comment. The plans have definitely been re-drawn, or traced, going by the quality....

Do they say 'designed by Phil Smith'?  And it's interesting to see that they offer scaled up kits as well - someone must have digitised it for laser cutting...

How did the cabins fit on the Veron version? On this there are two removable pieces of deck with the cabins/hatches built on them. This makes for what seems to me like a recipe for taking on water as there are no coamings. I plan to try to improve on this. ..

Yes, the Veron version had the centre of the deck removable in two parts - it just rested on a little ledge below and a row of ventilators (made out of sections of dowel) were used to hold it down. That box system is also very distinctive - though I think some early MarineCraft kits also used the same technique.....

Worked fine on my model - no water came in during a sparkling performance with an ME Snipe 1.5cc.  Nowadays I would probably go for a magnetic seal...

I'm glad to see the old kit back in production again, but I wonder how the copyright issues were sorted out. Does anyone know if Phil Smiths family know about this?

[barriew]

Do they say 'designed by Phil Smith'?  And it's interesting to see that they offer scaled up kits as well - someone must have digitised it for laser cutting...

No - J Williams from memory - the plans are in the shed.

Barrie

[Circlip]

Must be my version of winderz but I can't see any referance to a Veron re-kit in their fleebay ad? With regards to the method of construction, wonder if Phil took a copyright on his method of hard chine construction around a box?

  Regards  Ian.

[dodgy geezer]

Must be my version of winderz but I can't see any referance to a Veron re-kit in their fleebay ad? With regards to the method of construction, wonder if Phil took a copyright on his method of hard chine construction around a box?

  Regards  Ian.

Unlikely to be a 'method of construction' copyright - in the 1960s they would have considered that to be unreasonable - like copyrighting the idea of a house built out of 4 walls and a roof.

But the kit is SO similar (from what I can see of it) that I think it is a straight copy. So I was expecting at least to see a reference to the original designer. And I wasn't expecting to see another designer given credit!

As people may know, I don't like the current approach to copyright at all, and am heartened to see the Pirate Party doing so well in the German elections. But I DO think that original designers should be acknowledged....

[Circlip]

Especially since Phil (And Vic) did so much to keep their designs active. Although there is an extensive list of Phil's A/C plans with prices, I haven't seen likewise for his boats.

  Regards   Ian

[dodgy geezer]

Although there is an extensive list of Phil's A/C plans with prices, I haven't seen likewise for his boats...

Well... we do know that one of them costs £50....     

[barriew]

No - J Williams from memory - the plans are in the shed.

Barrie

Dodgy

The plans actually say "Drawn by J Williams". Not quite as direct as saying "Designed by"

Barrie

[barriew]

The hull is now painted and the decks fitted. I have also installed the steering servo and the rudder. I am waiting for some strong magnets to be delivered so I can devise a means of holding the cabin decks in place.

[howyson]

I had a similar problem my RTTL. The auxilliary superstructures are 'sunk' into the deck, hopefully sufficiently to not require additional fixings. The main superstructure slides forwards about 4mm onto 'hooks' and is then kept in position by the hatch being placed into its well in the deck. Obviously to remove the hatch must be lifted out first. Unfortunately cannot forward any photos at the moment.

[dodgy geezer]

... I am waiting for some strong magnets to be delivered so I can devise a means of holding the cabin decks in place...

If you buy some small 1/4" disk neodymium magnets the same size as the dowel slices which the kit uses for the deck vents, you could simply paint them and mount them in place of the deck vents. Then all you need is to put some thin steel sheet under the ledge which the superstructure rests on....