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[Martin13]

I see by Pm's that I have received that some are confused by the area in question. Later today I will post some photo's with arrows attached of the real boat plus a model. Hopefully this will then be self explanatory - One day I hope to get my nautical terminology correct.

Martin down under

A couple of pictures as promised - Water deflector marked with Red Arrow - Just need some ideas on how to make this without being too fragile..

Martin doon under

[boatmadman]

How about using a length of styrene tube, slit along one edge, warmed and gently bent to shape and fitted over the trailing edge of the superstructure?

Ian

Just looked more closely, how about, cut a quarter off a length of tube, bend to shape, glue on, and fit the straight edge? Fiddly, but may work?

[Martin13]

Ian,

Thanks for your suggestion.

I also thought of this method and purchased a length of Evergreen tube.The tube is very stiff and will need to be softened to bend around curves and filled with P38 as necessary. I suppose their are many methods and options available to reproduce the deflector, so I hope other forum members can also give there advice and suggestions.
I will take them all on board and try out on some scrap first as I do not wish to destroy another coaming/shelter assembly.

This part of the build can be done at a later stage and I can go on with other areas of the build. So for now I will wait for more suggestions and ideas of which one will work without too much trouble hopefully

Martin doon under

[dan]

hi martin,
i just caught up with the build, and its looking great.
i might have missed this, but can i ask where you got the plans from?

[Bunkerbarge]

Evergreen bends nicely with a bit of gentle heating.  I bent 2mm half round to a radius of about 10mm without any problems for a bulwark capping edge.  I used a hairdryer to warm it!

[Martin13]

hi martin,
i just caught up with the build, and its looking great.
i might have missed this, but can i ask where you got the plans from?

dantheman,
If you ask very, very nicely and willing to part with a sum of money - email John Lambert - BB is not on his listings.

Bunkerbarge,
Thanks for the suggestion - a hair dryer - never thought of that. If I put anything other than food in swmbo's oven - that will be the end of me

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

Well, I tried a number of methods to construct the Water Deflector on a prototype and was not overly impressed with the result. This included using evergreen tube cut to shape, heated and glued into place - messy and very fiddly. Also tried using 1.0mm ply and building up to the correct height but similar problems occurred as previous.

Eventually I came a across a piece of 80 year old Canadian Oregon that I had laying about in the shed. I decided that using my bandsaw, I could cut out the profiles I need in 5 sections, 1 for the top, 2 for the curves and 2 for the sides. Firstly I cut the long length with the grain of the timber as this would be glued to the top of the shroud  (roughly 10mm square). Prior to epoxying this into place I cut a piece of timber to the profile of the shroud and supported the underneath to aid and support the shroud and to keep its proper profile.

After gluing the first piece and allowing to dry, I was quite surprised by how strong this material was and did not distort the shroud as what had happened with previous attempts.

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

Having glued on the top section I then proceeded with the sides and curved areas. The task was not difficult and although each section was only 10mm square with compound curves, the strength in the material was astonishing and easy to work with. After completing all sections and filling gaps with P38 the Water Deflector was filed and sanded to shape.

Martin du

[Martin13]

And a couple more pics showing scale of model .

Note - UK coins - thanks John

Martin du

[Martin13]

Just back- tracking for one moment as I forgot to detail this part of the build. Prior to working on the Water Deflector, the Vosper drawings showed what appeared to be a "T" section on the inside of the shroud assembly. This was made of of 3 sections using 1.5mm ply. Making the sections was easy but holding and epoxying into place, a large amount of alcohol was consumed.
It was important to add these strips in as it would also help the shroud keep its original profile.

Martin  - the little light headed on this day.....

[Martin13]

I have now started the construction of the rear superstructure assembly. The first part is to construct the platform for the structure to be mounted on. A fiddly bit of construction as the platform is raised about 6.0mm above the main deck. Also the rear section of deck where the aft 40mm bofor will be mounted, must also be attached to this platform.

Reason being is that eventually from the aft bofor to the forward bofor, this will be one long section and can be removed as one piece to gain access to inside of hull..

P.S unfortunately at the moment with the hot weather we are having at the moment (40 - 43 degrees C) a large amount of alcohol is being consumed and its sometimes hard to find where my model is  

Martin down under

[DickyD]

Looking really good Martin.

How did you get money out of John ? 

[Martin13]

Looking really good Martin.

How did you get money out of John ? 

Dicky,

Just need to know which buttons to press

Martin du

[Martin13]

I have now started on the construction of the rear superstructure assembly. The sides were made of 3mm ply whilst internal supports were 10mm balsa strips. I have used balsa because I can make the supports quite large, very easy to shape and light in weight. The top part will be covered in 1.5mm ply, again to ease in bending the material to the correct profile.

Martin du

[Martin13]

Rear superstructure completed and sanded. No filling required.

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

A couple more pica's showing structure in place.
For now, the 2 superstructure sections will not be joined as I still need to add detail to inside of shroud etc. I have now started on the forward 40mm Bofor platform that is attached to the forward/ bridge section. 


Martin doon under

[bluebird]

woo there Martin, I never knew that Tamiya made a kit that big 

looking really professional mate, keep up the good work ....

aye
john

[DickyD]

Coming on well there Martin, looking really good.

[Martin13]

Thanks guys for the words of encouragement - it all helps.

Have you lads noticed the markings on the side of the work bench. these are various ships marked out to show length at 1:72 scale with Hood and Missouri running of the end of the bench being 3600mm long.

for John, notice ash tray top left hand corner, last pic.
 
Martin

[Martin13]

Just for fun.

To give a representation of scale for Brave Borderer.

I have started on my Fleetscale build of HMS Vanguard at 1:128 scale. For working on the shafts, I found that placing the hull on top of the BB hull was a good comfortable height.

As the picture shows, Vanguard is 130mm longer or about 5 inches.

Martin du

[Martin13]

Time for another update. Due to circumstances out of my control (bushfires), I have only just got back to BB.

What a relief it was to finally get back into the shed and work on my models again although it took some doing.

I had been having problems with the balsa part of the superstructure - no matter how much I sanded the cabin area, I could not get it right and kept putting dents and deep scratches into the balsa. After a good discussion with a friend, I eventually painted on 3 coats of fibreglass resin with sanding between coats. I must admit - this solved the problem and the cabin area is now a lot stronger with a much harder surface.

The next part was to start construction of the decks. For this I traced the shape of the bow area onto some cardboard as a template and transferred this to a sheet of 3mm Marine Plywood. I then cut out the rough shape of ply on a bandsaw. I then applied waterproof glue to all deck supports and outer edges prior to laying deck in place. Due to the size and thickness of the ply, I nailed the deck down along the edges and clamped the deck nearing the centre line.


Martin doon under

[Martin13]

The next part was to take the profile of the P & S sides of the superstructure deck areas. This was done in the same manner as the forward deck area. Then the last bit at the back was fitted. The ply decking was sanded down at the sides and nail holes filled with P38.

Apparently, I made it too well. When I placed the superstructure in its place - I could not remove it - too tight. The inside area where the superstructure would fit had to be carefully sanded back to allow for paint etc.


Martin du

[Martin13]

More pics showing superstructure in place. The strips beside BB are the rubbing strips to be added to hull sides at deck level. These were cut on the bandsaw using 10mm pine. 2 long lengths for the sides and a smaller section cut into a curve for fitting to the bow. These will be glued and nailed into place.


Martin du

[Martin13]

Last pic showing where I'm up to. The rubbing strips are now fitted and am about to start sanding a nice curve (hopefully) along the entire length. Still need to make another strip as fitted to transom and match the curvature of the deck - How I love sanding

Martin doon under

[DickyD]

Looking really good Martin. Nice to have you back on here.

[bluebird]

The Lord give me these hands never to be idle
he gave me my mind never to be at a loss
he gave me my eyes to see
and with the three I will give you something to look upon that is beauty

well done my mate

John

[Hagar]

Thats deep Bluebird!

Nice work Martin. Glad to hear you are back on the case.
Just on question, Whats the length of her. ( and dont say 5" longer than vanguard, I dont know how long she is :-p )

[Martin13]

Thats deep Bluebird!

Nice work Martin. Glad to hear you are back on the case.
Just on question, Whats the length of her. ( and dont say 5" longer than vanguard, I dont know how long she is :-p )

G'Day Ian M

Have not seen you on the forum for some time - glad to see you again.

Thanks for your comments.
Brave Borderer is 1800mm or 72 inches long with a beam of 450mm or 18 inches. She's pretty big with plenty of room inside.

Modelling is fairly slow at the moment, fire season is not not over and swmbo keeps reminding me that the trees need pruning, plants need potting etc..

Boy, the things we guys have to put up with just to get fed

Martin doon under

[Hagar]

Been in the forum almost every day, just not posted much of late.
Been kit bashing. Still to cold to varnish my powerboat. Dont want the varnish going milky do we?

Nice boat. looking forwards to seing it done, Borderer that is.

Keep looking at our garden and thinking It could do with a bit of TLC, but more inclined to DDT !!

[fooman2008]

Martin,
Being a yank I am unfamiliar with BB, she is some kind of post WWII motor gunboat?  I have never seen someone make a trim-tab that could be adjusted underway, neat!   Normally, you would put a bearing or shim between the aft end of the strut and the propeller (the yank term would be trust bearing) to convey the propulsion to the strut and thus the hull.  If you put the thrust bearing on the shaft as it enters the hull the stress of the thrust from the prop(s) and torque will cause the shafts to whip and wear the struts prematurely.  Something as simple as an 'oilite' (damn what was that term? instead of a bearing it is a _ _ _ _ ? damn? sudden onset Alzheimers!) can take the place of the trust bearing and be fairly cheap. BUSHINGS that's it! oilite bushings!
Foo

[lscc61114]

Hi All,

I'm a complete noob to this site, you might be interested in my hobby website at www.perkasa.co.uk,

If anyone can contribute with Perkasa / Brave borderer info please get in touch.  I'd also like to publish some model photos particularily of this big scale brave borderer.

It looks big enough to have a firing bofors

Best Regards
Dave

[Martin13]

Ian M,

Yeah, I noticed that you have been logged on and like me, not posted much. Now the Bushfires have ended, I'm trying to catch up with the garden maintenance and pruning trees now that the Bushfires have ended. Currently I have about 80 cubic metres of prunings and only half way through the job. Swmbo purchased me a Pole Chainsaw and has made life a lot easier although my arms are ready to expire. Having a break for a few days and working on BB again.

G'day Fooman.

Glad you like BB which is similar to your PT boats only I'm building her as a Motor Gun Boat - no torpedoes at this stage. I'm attempting to build her as close to scale as possible hence the adjustable transom flap. I have installed bearings inside the P Brackets ( struts) as you have suggested.

Iscc1114,

Had a look at your website - well done.

Firing Bofors - the thought has crossed my mind, heh heh.

Will send PM


Martin doon under

[fooman2008]

Martin over on R/C groups there is a gentleman working on a 1/35th scale Fletcher class destroyer he is planning to have the five inch mounts 'fire' using a cam and motor system to simulate the recoil and firing cycle of the guns.  Let me find the posting and I put it on here.
Foo

[steve pickstock]

Martin and Iscc1114, you might want to have a look at the gas blowback mechanisms from Airsoft pistols. In case you aren't aware of them they work from various gas mixes to simulate the slide recoil - some of you guys are good enough to engineer a mechnaism to duplicate this and power it from a Sparklet's CO2 cylinder.

Please note I am not advocating discharging anything from these weapons just using the gas to power the recoil.

[fooman2008]

found the post here it is with a PDF describing what he wants to build.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11312433&postcount=313
If you've got a couple of hours read the thread, it is a nice build!
Foo