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[RoyP]

My kit suggests the following:

Epoxy prop shaft and the like.
Super glue for plastic to plastic, wood to wood and plastic to wood.

I thought that PVA for wood to wood and solvent plastic cement for plastic to plastic, plastic to wood not sure.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Roy.

[craftysod]

Hi Roy
Being new to boat building myself,hopefully i can help you with what i've learnt so far.
wood to fibreglass/plastic   araldite
propshaft  as above or use car body filler
wood to wood  evo stick weatherproof wood adhesive
plastic to plastic cyanoacrylate adhesive [superglue comes in three thicknesses] far better than normal stuff but be carefull nearly went to bed with bits stuck to me
its that good
hopefully that helps
mark

[dougal99]

You shouldn't need cyno for plastic to plastic, liquid poly should be OK.  However, you can use either, but poly tends not to stick you to the model or any thing else 

Doug

[DickyD]

  Adhesives may be in tube form (polystyrene cement) or in liquid form such as Humbrol Liquid Poly or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) which is best applied with a brush. The technique is to apply a few drops of the solvent and the glue will run down the joint by capillary attraction. The following glues are recommended:

Fibreglass to plastic: two-part epoxy (10 min. or 1 hour). Plastic to plastic: ordinary plastic solvent (Liquid Poly). Whitemetal to whitemetal: two-part epoxy (5min.) or thick superglue. Whitemetal to plastic: two-part epoxy or thick superglue. Wood to plastic: two-part epoxy, thick superglue or contact adhesive. Brass to plastic: R/C Modellers craft glue or thick superglue. Rubber Fender: contact adhesive (UHU, Bostik). Window glazing: R/C Modellers craft glue. 

Nicked from Model Slipways Web Sites Hints and Tips section. Well worth a read.

http://www.modelslipway.com/

[Roger in France]

Liquid poly not only works well but is easy to apply as it "wicks" along the join by cappilary attraction.

So, what you need is a small bottle of LP and a blunt point such as a small gimlet or even a nail; dip it in the bottle; lift it out and allow the bulk of the LP to drip back into the bottle; touch the joint with the moist blunt point; watch the LP travel along the joint; allow to dry.

Incidentally, I totally agree about the excellent tips on the Model Slipway site.

Roger in France.

[RoyP]

Thanks gents for all the help, especially the tip to look at the 'Model Slipway' site, lots of hep there.

Now to start!!

Roy.

[Peter Fitness]

All good advice from some very experienced modellers, Roy. We look forward to some photos of your build.

Peter.

[2HogsAL]

Hi Roy

I found this on my travels around the t'internet.  Haven't used it yet but it does look kind of useful so I have bookmarked it for future reference.

Good luck with the build.

Regards Al

[2HogsAL]

Sorry about that, I forgot to paste the link.   


Here it is.

http://www.thistothat.com/index.shtml

Regards again, Al

[PT Sideshow]

Yes the "This to that" site is a great sticky resource, it has been around for awhile and always will point you in the right direction. The only problem as with a lot of across the pond sites/products. The brand name my be changed to protect the innocent.

This stuff is great for water proofing wood and other items Haven't used it on a boat yet. But have used it for years, on just about everything and you can imagine. And have found it to live up to the claims.
http://www.weldbondusa.com/
The web site is also filled with info on its use.

Beacon, a leader in adhesive technology for over 80 years, manufactures glue for many diverse industries and applications including:
• Arts & Crafts
• Automotive
• Aviation & Aerospace
• Construction
• Electronics
• Hardware
• Hobbies
• Screen & Flexo Printing

Beacon glues are renowned for their strength, reliability and versatility. There‘s a quality Beacon product for almost any purpose or project. They have stuff for potting electronics and a host of other industrial adhesives.
http://www.beacon1.com/

Tech-Bond Molecular Bonding System TM
The "Glue" System to use when performance is a must!  This stuff is great, I have used it on a number of plastics of unknown heritage. One item the pull handle on my 8" Royobi Radial arm saw and while using the saw to cut 1,200sq feet of vinyl siding for my house, only 8ooSQ FT or so to go. There has been so much as a wiggle out of the handle at the break.
Now a word of warning! Don't let the home opening page throw you with the Funeral Directors/Embalmers and Taxidermist statements this is the same they use for work on bodies and real stuffed animals. look over the stuff.
http://tech-bond.net/Home_Page.php

glen, USA* Great Lakes region


 

[Colin Bishop]

For UK modelling requirements have a look here: http://www.deluxematerials.com/

They also have a table on what sticks to what on their hints and tips page.

They make the Roket range of adhesives and quite a lot else.

Also Starloc do a wide range: http://www.glue-shop.com/

[tomocj]

For poly and super glue I use a bot of wooden dowel drilled one end and a pin / needle glued in this is ideal for applying just the right amount of glue. need my glasses on though but it is handy and you do'nt get glue everywhere.
prefer poly to the super glues as they tend to be more brittle joint
as for wood to wood use wood glue every time.
Hope it helps Chris

[chingdevil]

I made this list up some time ago, I am not sure it is 100% up to date but it should help

Brian