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Author Topic: Out of Line GRP Moulding  (Read 4055 times)

wallace

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Out of Line GRP Moulding
« on: February 05, 2009, 07:13:07 pm »

Anyone got any tips on how to get warped GRP moulding straight my hull is 1410 mm long (56 inches) and looking from the bow to the aft its looks like it going to port .I found out it was wraped after I had put filler at the top 30mm inside hull to smooth down above deck level.I have cut out the long deck and its all wrong  have to start again but must get the hull straight never had a hull like this.Welcome all help on this.   wallace
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Brian Roberts

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Re: Out of Line GRP Moulding
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2009, 07:19:09 pm »

Hi Wallace
I'm no expert in this field but I believe that if heat is applied toa  GRP moulding it can be manipulated ie. possibly a hairdrier.
Hope this helps
Brian
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wallace

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Re: Out of Line GRP Moulding
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2009, 07:24:03 pm »

hi Brian  thanks for tips  I have never come across a hull like this I know its 56 ins long but for the price that was paid  the hull should be in great shape  I have done 5 model boats now and never had a hull like this.
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Brian Roberts

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Re: Out of Line GRP Moulding
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2009, 07:55:41 pm »

Hi Wallace
Have you thought about talking to your supplier about an exchange for a good hull?
OK. you've put a bit of filler on it but any supplier worth his salt should offer you an immediate exchange.
Worth a try.
Good luck.
Brian
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tigertiger

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Re: Out of Line GRP Moulding
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2009, 01:56:32 am »


Have you thought about talking to your supplier about an exchange for a good hull?
OK. you've put a bit of filler on it but any supplier worth his salt should offer you an immediate exchange.

The supplier may also tell you of another solution to your problem.
If it is only a small change in direction I imagine it will sort itself out when you put in the sheer strips and beams/decks. As long as you don't use the hull for a template when cutting the deck.
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derekwarner

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Re: Out of Line GRP Moulding
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2009, 06:18:00 am »

Wallace....there are other possibilities...so you could consider

1) support the lower hull in 3 or 4 wooden cradles, securely mount these to a substantial building board...you may need to drill for 3 or 4 screws through the hull & secure the hull to the building board or wooden cradles...don't worry ....the holes can be filled later
2) add & epoxy bond a wooden coaming [say 10 mm high x 6 mm wide] at just below deck level yes...around the entire internal port & stdb sides of the hull & from bow to stern
3) design & cut a true profile deck plate
4) mechanically distort the hull until this true profile deck plate fits into position
5) gauge the accuracy of the alignment fix...this can be as complicated or simple as you choose
6) assess what long term physical access you need into the hull from bow to stern & the cut these access provisions in the true profile deck plate

Remember that a twisted GRP hull when straightened will create redisual stresses ....so consider placing additional internal hull frames to suit the corrected profile & epoxy these in place

7) naturally one of the last acts is to epoxy the true profile deck plate back to the wooden hull coaming.....

All very similar to the comments from tigertiger.......:-)) Derek
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Derek Warner

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Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au
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