Topic: connecting rudder arms to servo (Read 6502 times)

wallace · « **on:** February 24, 2009, 07:07:42 pm »

anyone with a good tip to stop the rods on the rudder arm from popping out im having a little bit of touble with mine building the Sir lancelot and the length of rod is around160mm to the servo.

DickyD · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2009, 07:12:37 pm »

Got a photo Wallace ?

wallace · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2009, 07:19:12 pm »

will put a photo here tomorrow thanks to all

ian kennedy · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2009, 07:50:35 pm »

Hi Wallace,

I normally use the snap fit clevis type connectors that fit onto the M2 threaded rods, one on the tiller arm and one on the servo output arm.
Never had one fail yet

Regards

Ian

tugnut · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2009, 08:20:45 pm »

Hi all new on here, i use the bent rod on my models not had one fail yet.
I also use two rods push pull method.

john b

John W E · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2009, 08:27:01 pm »

hi ya there

If you have a look at the Spashett build in master class you can see how I linked up the rudder to the servo, using Clevis type connectors and I used 1/16 brazing rod for the push rods.

After I had cut the rod to the correct length, I roughed either end up with the file and then dipped the ends of the rod, into some epoxy resin & then inserted the end of the rod into the Clevis, so, when the epoxy hardens, it locks the Clevis onto the end of the rod.

The other end I put a 2mm thread on, and this gives me some adjustment because I screw this end into the opposite Clevis; picture below is from the Spashett build.

aye
john

bosun · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2009, 08:46:31 pm »

Hy Wallace
Nothing to do with your question , and it,s just an observation, but are you sure your rudder tube is going to be long enough?. It looks a bit short to me, when the boat is ballasted you may find water coming in through there. As I say it,s just an observation.
Cheers
Bosun

DickyD · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2009, 09:23:52 pm »

Hi Wallace

Have to agree with Bosun, Your rudder tube definitely looks to short, you really want it as high as possible.

Photo of my linkage, clevis pin at one end z shaped bend at the other.

red181 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2009, 11:56:29 pm »

Hi Richard, funny what you see in the background of pictures, great idea with that bottle in a cardboard support!!!

The amount of time I knock bottles over,

the contents of which always go on me, the model, or all over tools!

DickyD · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:05:21 am »

It was costing me a fortune in spilt Plastic Weld until I made up the cardboard holder for the bottle.

funtimefrankie · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:36:54 am »

I now have mine in a block of polystyrene, you can also push the brush into it, (non-bristle end)

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2009, 09:57:35 am »

Quote from: funtimefrankie on February 25, 2009, 08:36:54 am

I now have mine in a block of polystyrene, you can also push the brush into it, (non-bristle end)

This must be the "TIP OF THE YEAR"

Thanks for the idea. I'm sure it will help us all. The stuff don't half run when tipped over, eh Richard?

ken

DickyD · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2009, 11:02:50 am »

Little goes a very long way Ken

wallace · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2009, 05:17:16 pm »

As promise last night taken these photos today of the rudder and fittings.
would like to say many thanks for all your replies very useful .

tolnedra · « **Reply #14 on:** February 25, 2009, 05:31:16 pm »

Wallace, your installation is very neat, but with only one bend in each end of your rudder to servo wires, you are running the risk of them becoming disconnected very easily. Put a second bend in each, to make a "Z" type shape, or invest in clevis etc as suggested earlier, or you could have your pride and joy going round in circles, yards/metres from the shore, until the batteries run down!

Good luck!

Danny

DickyD · « **Reply #15 on:** February 25, 2009, 07:29:08 pm »

Wallace as Danny says put another bend in each end of the rods to form a Z bend.

You will need to disconnect your tiller arm to fit them and maybe the top of your servo.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #16 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:08:38 pm »

I too, am concerned about the low height of your rudder shaft. At this stage of the build it might be prudent to replace it. Mountfleet Models are very good and I'm sure they can supply a new one.

What you should be looking for is as high as possible without hitting the deck. It can be fitted into a copper tube, epoxied at the base in a block of wood for strength.

Please consider this and save yourself problems in the future when it's all sealed up with limited access.

Hope this helps

Ken

das boot · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:13:25 pm »

A picture paints a thousand words...see image below. That's how I connect up rudders, gun turrets, in fact anything that needs to be connected to a servo via a rigid link.

Rich

andyn · « **Reply #18 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:36:18 pm »

I would reccomend investing in a set of Nylon Snaplinks (not plastic swing keepers) (not actually a massive investment in the scheme of things), then you dont have to take the arm off the servo to take the rods off, just snap and you're done. Use them on a 113" glider so it must work

Islander1951 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 25, 2009, 11:03:11 pm »

While I agree with all of the previous comments, especially the use of z-bends, I think that the main problem now lies in the shortness of the rudder tube.

Normally the use of a piece of silicone tube fitted over the rudder tube that would be a tight fit over the rudder shaft, with some lubrication on the shaft would work well, but now that it has been cut down, as can be seen in the photographs, there is a problem.
An O ring might be the answer to that, or could a new shaft be fabricated?

Islander51

Bee · « **Reply #20 on:** February 26, 2009, 12:25:28 am »

tip: fitting releasing snaplinks can be a bit awkward and put a strain on things. Using circlip pliers makes it a lot easier.

malcolmfrary · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2009, 01:18:00 pm »

Suggestion for the tube height- a short length of tube that is a sliding fit over the existing stub to give the required height. A short length of the original tube in the top of this tube to act as a bearing. A bit of epoxy to fix and seal, maybe some plastic padding or similar to encourage it all to stay vertical, job done.

paw249 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 26, 2009, 05:40:10 pm »

There is a plastic fitting made by SLEC called a swing keeper which only requires one bend to be put in the rod.

White Ensign · « **Reply #23 on:** February 26, 2009, 07:07:37 pm »

... Wallace, when calculating the lengt of the rudder-tube, did you have checked that it is well over the waterline? As far as I remember, with that length you are close to it.... and it might be (mustn`t be) a problem. About the saving of the tillerarms, that`s right. One safer in the front, one in the back.

If you want to be sure about the rudder, mark the waterline, put it in the bathtube (or a pond- what is closer) and move the rudder left-right-left-rigth... then you will see if it is leaking and if the waterline is above or underneath.

But I still wonder, how much the ruddertube is looking out of the hull.....? I remember I`ve made it about 35mm....- show me a pic from the outside....

Jörg

wallace · « **Reply #24 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:34:48 am »

OK Jorg will take photos today and email to your email
wallace

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Author Topic: connecting rudder arms to servo (Read 6502 times)

wallace

wallace

ian kennedy

tugnut

wallace

das boot

andyn

Islander1951

Bee

paw249

wallace