Topic: Yet Another Revell Type VII (Read 7732 times)

Zed. · « **on:** June 03, 2009, 10:53:19 pm »

Time i got brave enough to share my attempt at building a 1/72nd scale surface running U-Boat, after seeing some of the quality models here (and on other forums)I am a bit embarrassed with my skills (or lack of) but this is my first model in 15-20 years and my first 'conversion'. hopefuly I will manage to get it to work and stay afloat.

I have started with the Revell type V11C kit in 1/72 scale, admitedly I bought this thinking that it might be an 'easy' build to re-start but obviously nothing is easy, then add a bit of internet ideas (like RC

) and things snow-balled. thanks to all who have posted their builds for inspiration

so far I have the basic hull assembled and have started on the tower, here I have made my own periscope bases from aluminium and am playing with the uzo shape, it is handy having an extremely messy but well equiped workshop / garage to play in (2 lathes & a mill, amongst other machines). also I have bought props, shafts & motors (from SHG) and started fitting the prop-shafts to the hull, that in itself was quite interesting for a first time attempt, maybe a little filler needed as the 'gland gousings' or 'stuffing-boxes' tried to split when being opened out

(also the holes in the hull are a lot larger than I thought but easily sealed with resin or epoxy I hope)
anyway, if I have done it correctly, some photo's...

the origonal kit uzo (between the periscopes) was too small to reach the top of the tower so I made a taller one (not thinking what it should look like) so another attempt is in the future, also some p/e brass might be on the shopping list as it realy adds to the detail.

Rich.

Bunkerbarge · « **Reply #1 on:** June 04, 2009, 03:10:31 pm »

Looking excellent so far, I would recommend the wooden deck set as well if you are looking at improving the level of detail. It does look at lot more accurate and the openings have a sharper edge to them.

One day we should get all these together as a "Wolf Pack", that would look pretty impressive, I think there are about four of them at my own club already but there must be dozens up and down the country.

Zed. · « **Reply #2 on:** June 06, 2009, 04:20:18 pm »

a minor progress report, I have been a bit buisy so have only made another attempt at the uzo.

this one looks a bit more like the one's I habve seen in photo's of real U-Boats (a few diferent designs) but I am not convinced with its accuracy

(hard to guess the dimensions from a photo and get it to look correct in the model)
I was looking at gluing some brass shim in the recesses to replicate the 'handles' but I think that the top is still a bit large in diameter aswell a a bit short in hight, maybe another hour on the lathe (one thing that makes it look odd to me is the dia. of the main shaft (3.5mm), this is due to me using an m3 bolt to attach it to the floor of the tower (cant find my BA taps & bolts

) maybe if I find them I can 'slim' it down a bit

anyway...

Rich.

Zed. · « **Reply #3 on:** June 06, 2009, 11:08:07 pm »

A bit more fiddling

some detail added to the 'sky' periscope, this was done bt splitting some 'jos-stick' wood (didnt have anything else lying around, looked for matches

) superglued to the aluminium, hopefully when it is pinted it will look better...

also I am now wondering why I made new periscope 'towers' as the plastic 'kit' ones whould have done the same job

I might use the same method to 'plank' the inside of the tower, will see how adventureous I feel....

Rich.

jonny shoreboy · « **Reply #4 on:** June 16, 2009, 01:25:57 pm »

I have one of these which I hope to convert as my next project so I will be watching your progress with great interest.

Zed. · « **Reply #5 on:** June 16, 2009, 06:48:49 pm »

Quote from: jonny shoreboy on June 16, 2009, 01:25:57 pm

I have one of these which I hope to convert as my next project so I will be watching your progress with great interest.

HA. I have been reading your Flower build thinking the same

am working on the propshafts at the mo, the shafts & tubes I had from SHG are fine but the tube is meant to sit all the way to the rear mounting as opposed to only the shaft outside of the hull, so I will be shortening the tube by 2" to suit. also I am looking at making a bush for the shaft to run in that will fit in the rear mounting frame (in front of the props, tapered like the origonals maybe?)

more reports to come

Rich.

Zed. · « **Reply #6 on:** June 16, 2009, 11:20:37 pm »

okey-dokey. made the prop rear bushes from some brass stock, 20 degree taper, 2mm bore and steped to 3mm for the intrusion into the frame

the frame was drilled out to 3mm and the bushes pressed in, maybe some superglue later to fix them in place

next job is to shorten the prop-tubes......

starting to think about modifing the props as well, maybe a bit more of a taper in them like the real boats?

Rich.

Bunkerbarge · « **Reply #7 on:** June 17, 2009, 12:36:08 am »

That is just the job I wish I'd done with mine. I didn't bother with a bush and the shafts are a little bit slack now in the "A" Frame so I'm going to have to retro fit them.

I agree the real props were actually quite pointed so the ones you have, as mine, could do with a little 'sharpening'. You would have to be very careful though that you don't break through into the threaded hole!!

Zed. · « **Reply #8 on:** June 17, 2009, 12:48:30 am »

Quote from: Bunkerbarge on June 17, 2009, 12:36:08 am

That is just the job I wish I'd done with mine. I didn't bother with a bush and the shafts are a little bit slack now in the "A" Frame so I'm going to have to retro fit them.

I agree the real props were actually quite pointed so the ones you have, as mine, could do with a little 'sharpening'. You would have to be very careful though that you don't break through into the threaded hole!!

as to retro-fitting the bushes, it might be a bit interesting as the rear 'dive-planes' would have to come of, maybe a bit of damage?

with the props, the taper would never be perfect as the props are not realy to scale, maybe narrowing the blades (also would sharpen them????) then machining the taper

also, as the props are m4 thread & 'bushed' to m2 using a plastic / nylon? then this might 'strip' if the shaft was used to drive them in the lathe's chuck.......................................

am I going too far

maybe I could have got more progress if I had not diverted to other ideas

Rich.

Zed. · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2009, 06:51:01 pm »

Progress report (OR lack of progress)

what with a few things happening, and my computer giving-up, I returned from a week-end away on monday night to find that the cat tried to see if a plastic 1:72 scale U-boat could fly, so apart from the main build, I now have repairs to the bow diving-planes, the frame-work around the prop-A-frames & 1 propshaft that has bent so needs to be replaced (I knew 2mm dia. shafts were fragile BUT didnt think that it would bend so sharply). luckily the decking & tower were not fitted so they have survived a lot better

anyway, hopefully I can add more reports with progress soon

Rich.

ps. anyone want a siamese cat.......................

Albion · « **Reply #10 on:** July 06, 2009, 08:27:25 am »

My Fat Tabby did a similar trick with my VII, at least it proved that my Brass fabricated A frames and rudder support was strong enough

Bunkerbarge · « **Reply #11 on:** July 06, 2009, 09:50:59 am »

You mean they held the weight of the cat!!!

Albion · « **Reply #12 on:** July 06, 2009, 02:00:18 pm »

No way, he's 7kg, they couldnt hold him

Zed. · « **Reply #13 on:** December 27, 2009, 11:12:20 pm »

Evening all

Time for another 'lack of progress' report

been a bit buisy to continue but have managed to get some time spent, also got my pc working and can look through the internot easier than with my phone...

also remembered to order some parts from SHG including a propshaft to replace the one that the cat managed to ,,,, well, alter

I have been fiddling with the type 7 and have fitted the prop tubes, but am trying to decide how to 'blank off' their ends as they leave the hull...
I have been looking at plugging (& then drilling for the shaft) the 'stuffing' / 'gland' sections & carving them to shape as this was lost when I opened them for the prop tubes

but not managed that yet...

also started on a Revell Corvette (undecided as to what ship as yet, will do some reading) and this is going to equil the hunter / hunted ratio but thats another story....

also have made keel ballast from scrap sheet roofing lead, bonded in with epoxy but this needs more adding for proper ballasting to waterline, will have to wiegh the 'workings & deck / tower for that

with the ammount of pound-shop epoxy I have used & their lack of stock I might have to start on the expensive stuff

anyway, enough for now, more to come

Rich.

Wasyl · « **Reply #14 on:** January 05, 2010, 09:51:33 pm »

I,m watching your build,i too have a Revell ,mines is the Wolf Pack version,i tried getting the prop shafts etc from SHG,but ended up going to G Sirtek, who are able to supply 2mm shafts with matching props,It wasmy intention to attempt making it a static diver using the WTC set up,but have since shelved the idea,and am now opting for a surface runner,...I,m just a coward,When I got this model from a fellow member,he,d already drilled out the rudders and fitted brass rod and likewise with the dive planes,but i,m now thinking of steering her with just the props, either by 2 x esc,s or by using the electrics from one of those cheapo, Bismarcks thatsteer by the props,...if i seem to be hi-jacking your thread,i apologise,

Wullie

Zed. · « **Reply #15 on:** January 05, 2010, 10:50:05 pm »

mmmm, if you can get the rudders linked up it will probably steer better than just using the props as steerage? (also if you can get your fingers into the small space to fit the bell-cranks onto the rudder shafts hehe

)

Rich.

Wasyl · « **Reply #16 on:** January 06, 2010, 10:20:18 am »

There,s no chance of bell-cranks onto the shafts as they are only 1.5mm thick,so its my intention to fit,a flat brass strip to one rudder and an L shaped flat beass strip to the other,then link the two,then hopefully i,ll be able to steer,

Wullie

Zed. · « **Reply #17 on:** January 06, 2010, 04:51:51 pm »

Sorry

by 'bell-crank' I meant it as a term for operating the rudders

(as opposed to a bought item)

Rich.

Wasyl · « **Reply #18 on:** January 06, 2010, 08:19:03 pm »

Oops from me also

Wullie

Bunkerbarge · « **Reply #19 on:** January 08, 2010, 09:37:32 am »

I used this arrangement shown below for this model and was actually very surprised at just how manoeuvreable the model was using a micro servo and the standard kit rudders. The only modification I made was to remove the plastic rudder stocks and fit brass tubes instead to give much better wear resistance in the tubes.

The control rods are model aircraft items but you could just as easily use any flexible wire and plastic sleeves to guide them.

News:

Author Topic: Yet Another Revell Type VII (Read 7732 times)

Zed.

Zed.

Zed.

jonny shoreboy

Zed.

Zed.

Zed.

Zed.

Albion

Albion

Zed.

Wasyl

Zed.

Wasyl

Zed.

Wasyl