Topic: Evenos /Mont Caume (Read 27953 times)

sjoormen · « **Reply #25 on:** July 10, 2009, 07:22:22 pm »

Thanks for replies guys.
Well Proteus I try to do my best with my hull these days there is lot of puttying and sanding going on.
Plans I am going to use are plotted to scale, and I indeed use them as you suggested. There are lots of details just waiting to forget them

.

Gondolier thank for your truly splendid answer I am trying to figure these things out.
So I spent some time at library(after few years, oh I thought I can everything find out on the web) and I found few books (very old but at least general arrangements are described in them) for inspiration I drooled over photos on this link:
http://modelengines.info/
Maybe it will be useful for somebody else too. On few older threads and of your reply I figured that I need twincylinder doubleacting selfstarting /reversing engine Now I must figure out how much power will propeller require I was looking for something like Aeronaut or Rabboesch propeller with diameter 110 mm, but how do you choose pitch -Rabboesch has 112 mm ( I am asking in case I will have to build propeller as well)

gondolier88 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 10, 2009, 07:53:52 pm »

Hi Sjoormen,

A steam prop generally spins at a slower RPM, but due to the torque I mentioned earlier, it also has a bigger pitch- I would say though that on a prop of 110mm, 112mm would be perfect, you could if you want increase it by maybe 10mm or so.

Out of interest, are you going three bladed or four?

On the launch i'm building at the moment i've put a 3 bladed 75mm Raboesch steam prop on- it pulls like a dream, it also spins quite freely- and this is off a twin cylinder oscillator of 11mm bore! I would be tempted to put a four bladed one on the tug, personal preferences of course.

Greg

Proteus · « **Reply #27 on:** July 11, 2009, 01:05:10 am »

if you have not bought the prop look at Prop Shop they are cast props and are very acurate they do some nice steam props , they are a bit slow to deal with but if you order handy there is no problem they work well with steam.

Proteus

sjoormen · « **Reply #28 on:** July 13, 2009, 05:51:10 pm »

Hi,
Propeller I was thinking about :diameter 110 , four bladed brass ( probably Raboesch - Propshop is good idea I must contact them first) First I must decide what will turn that thing around. Few interesting engines comes to my mind Stuart Puffin or D 10 (I don't know if puffin is strong enough though, anyway I haven't decided yet) I 've been looking Saito Type L or T2 also but I could not find anything about them, so...
Anyway my plug is nearly ready so I will probably know about displacement and room enough to decide.(Or to ask more precisely)

It really doesn't look much like this does it

gondolier88 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 13, 2009, 06:14:42 pm »

Hi Sjoormen,

Your right in that the stuart oscillator would be right on it's limits- it would be VERY thirsty on steam indeed!

I will always recommend the D10- it's a wonderful engine, it's good looking, has plenty of power and is reasonably efficient- it's just the initial outlay that is hard to swallow- but you won't regret it I promise, and of course having a proper engine would add value to the boat so it wouldn't be dead money- ebay sometimes has some examples on. The ultimate engine would be the Stuart twin launch- just a beautiful engine. Monohan steam models heron is also highly recommended.

You can add SO many details to the right engine to make it a proper engineroom, and this is a lot easier on a slide valve engine than on an oscillating one.

Greg

PS, the plug looks great! Can't wait to see the finished product!

gondolier88 · « **Reply #30 on:** July 13, 2009, 07:52:11 pm »

Hi Sjooormen,

Just to drool over and show you what can be done with a little, well ok, a lot of imagination and some D10 castings...!

Greg

sjoormen · « **Reply #31 on:** July 15, 2009, 01:52:08 pm »

This really is something else." Pimp my steam" comes on my mind

BTWI started to look for kits and I found this link other day:
http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=56&rn=318&action=show_detail
Does anybody have any experiences with this or similar kit, though this one does look bit big for my boat

sjoormen · « **Reply #32 on:** July 21, 2009, 05:05:18 pm »

I finally managed to glass the hull. So far it looks OK, but for real assessment I will have to wait few days, and then I will be able to tell something about displacement.
BTW are any problems with epoxy hulls fitted with steam plants ( they are resistant up to 70°C)

gondolier88 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 21, 2009, 07:01:12 pm »

Hi,

I hope not, half the steamboats in the SBAGB would be on fire right now!!!

As long as there is an air gap between the boiler and the hull you should be fine- I always stick some foil to the bilge under the boiler- if you really think it needs it buy a plumbers heat mat from Plumb Center etc- about 12" X 12" completely fireproof fabric, only a tenner I think.

The hull looks fantastic by the way.

Greg

sjoormen · « **Reply #34 on:** July 21, 2009, 07:49:21 pm »

Thanks, accurate made plug really pays off . These days I contacted Stuart models but I haven't got any answer yet so I also contacted tinypower, they are very helpful and they are offering this engine
http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=56&rn=318&action=show_detail
What do you think? And another thing comes to my mind every part in these engines is probably in imperial units. Nothing wrong with that

, except I have tools all metric.
Anyway I will wait for few days for Stuart to response and then I will see.

sjoormen · « **Reply #35 on:** July 24, 2009, 05:12:02 pm »

There is some room in there

I was worried where to put engine and boiler, so I put block and tube approximately sized D-10 and 5" horizontal boiler, and come to conclusion that D-10 is probably to high and my choice would probably 2V-10M which is half of inch lower, ( I must get some more informations about dimensions)

vertical tube is positioned where chimney will be placed.

I have also got her swim. Max displacement I thing is about 18 kg hull itself weights 1kg so there is some 15 kg weight to put in. Well we will see.

gondolier88 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 24, 2009, 05:59:40 pm »

Hi Sjoormen,

What a shame- even with the engineroom hatches on the deck- you remember to count the height of those of course?

The tiny power engine looks really tidy- I thought there was a similar engine to the D10 available but couldn't remember where!! Glad you found it- i'm sure it will too have enough power and it looks very tidy indeed- about the height difference- if you compare the two engines the D10 has a thick cast iron soleplate- whereas the 2V-10M hasn't- it being mounted straight onto the engine bearers that would be bonded into the hull- may be worth contacting ST once more and see if they count the soleplate in the overall height.

The hull looks great by the way- youv'e made a really good job.

Keep us posted- it's good to see a well made steamboat in the tug section!

Greg

sjoormen · « **Reply #37 on:** August 28, 2009, 03:05:41 pm »

Past month was very slow concerning my build( too much to do at work and around house). But I managed to study few things about steam and I got few plans for them. After plans of Dutch steam society Donar I remodelled engine more or less for for fun but I have one question about slide valve and comparing with piston valve which one is better. Problems with leaking, maintenance, maybe slide valve is easier to repair when leaking?

gondolier88 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 28, 2009, 04:45:52 pm »

Hi,

Good to hear from you- i've been busy myself and not had much time for modelling- however I have just acquired a new lathe so will be building a D10 asap.

Now then- piston valves V slide valves-

Piston valves in full size give the following benefits;

1- More efficient use of steam.
2- Can run at higher RPM.
3- Cant lift off seat

Slidevalves-

1- Very simple to set up
2- Can be balanced to provide pressure on the valve to counterract lift.
3- If not balanced the lift capabilities provide a safety window if water is present.

That design is very impressive- you just need to build it now!!

In models the benefits of one over another are pretty much the same- however the efficiency if pistons are reduced to aforementioned inherent problems involved in model steam plant- and in slide valves- although possible- making them balanced would be a difficult and probably pointless process.

Typically triple expansion engines, and some compounds, a piston valve would be used on the HP valvechest with slidevalves on the IP and LP valvechests.

Greg

sjoormen · « **Reply #39 on:** September 14, 2009, 01:58:42 pm »

Thanks for your replay- superb as always

These days I tried to build superstructure , but this as it looks like will be very slow build. I always spent a lot of time studying plans but never as much as these. But it is fun finding something new in those old plans.

sjoormen · « **Reply #40 on:** September 30, 2009, 05:46:51 pm »

I have been trying to finish hull. From plans there is visible how plates are covered. I have been searching for photos but since I couldn't found them I ll try to do my best with plans only. Plans show width of plates only, but no length (if someone could help with standart or any other length would make me very happy :) :))
Anyhow here it is:

sjoormen · « **Reply #41 on:** October 07, 2009, 04:41:53 pm »

Few details I managed to do. I was very anxious to see how it looked so I coloured black( no other available colour at home) it shoves few errors but nothing too dramatic

. It is no first class like you guys show in yours build, but for first try not bad- especially with all the guessing gong on.

Please ignore bin and woodwork, but I had no other place to paint today

gondolier88 · « **Reply #42 on:** October 07, 2009, 05:48:05 pm »

Hi Sjoormen,

Looking great- that second one could be full size- you've got the details just right. The 'mistakes' only make it look more real- a little well thought out weathering and they could look like characterful bumps and scrapes acquired in the harbour.

Greg

sjoormen · « **Reply #43 on:** October 16, 2009, 02:57:01 pm »

Thanks, I always like your replies very much

.
I tried to figure the best way to build deck with plastic cards (which I usually don't use, I like wood better).
Deck has very interesting curves, so I tried combining plywood and plastic.
So far no surprises yet, that I will not know until painting is done.
BTW of course I don't know what colour is right so if nobody has better idea I will probably go with dark red/brown.
It supposed to be steel deck, so,.. Anyway pictures tell much more than my rusty English:

sjoormen · « **Reply #44 on:** October 22, 2009, 05:42:43 pm »

When I glued plastic strips I failed in accuracy so I had some puttying to do. And sanding. And puttying, and,.. well you got the picture. In between I managed to do some openings in the hull.

sjoormen · « **Reply #45 on:** November 04, 2009, 01:56:16 pm »

Next step- aligning strips with rivets. I noticed they are much harder to apply to convex curvature of deck than concave curvature of hull. Aligning was -and still is on certain places, well- struggle

. Next step is placing "pillars"" ( please help me with proper term). I tried few different glues -best proved to be Revell's liquid glue, altough not good I hoped it would be. Those things are very fragile.

Voyager · « **Reply #46 on:** November 04, 2009, 03:46:19 pm »

Your doing an outstanding job there, really enjoyable thread to watch!

Keep up the good work

Voyager

marinaru_ro · « **Reply #47 on:** November 04, 2009, 05:49:12 pm »

Will watch this thread with great interest too.Good job!
George

sjoormen · « **Reply #48 on:** November 13, 2009, 02:49:10 pm »

Thanks.
I haven't done much lately. After another look into plans and noticed wrongly made bulwark supports

so I decided to made another (very exiting job) and started on deck detailing. It looks like I have reached point where studying requires more time than work itself.
If I could work at this pace my little pride and joy will be made between March and April
2050

sjoormen · « **Reply #49 on:** November 18, 2009, 05:24:33 pm »

Few days back my little joy and pride decided that best place for her would be under the working desk( ground)
since I was aware that modelboats don't bounce well I decided that best thing to do is stand.
I tried to do ordinary stand, but I couldn't help myself. And then I felt a bit artistic

.
Anyway what do you think?

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Author Topic: Evenos /Mont Caume (Read 27953 times)

Proteus

marinaru_ro